|Item Weight||2.5 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||4.2 x 4.2 x 7.8 inches|
|California residents||Click here for Proposition 65 warning|
|Item model number||241140|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Number Of Pieces||1|
|Included Components||1-Quart Dry Erase Paint|
Rust-Oleum 241140 Dry Erase Brush-On Kit, White
- Enter your model number to make sure this fits.
- Indoor use on a variety of objects including walls, doors, cabinet doors, message centers, menu boards, toy chests, craft projects and more
- To apply, mix pats A and B and coat surface within 1 hour of mixing with a dense foam roller or brush
- Dries to the touch in 1 hour, cleans up with soap & water and covers up to 55 sq ft with 2 coats
- For optimal results read instructions completely prior to use and allow surface to cure for 3 full days before using
- Provides a smooth, hard, glossy finish that creates a writeable-erasable surface
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From the manufacturer
To clean, simply use a dry eraser or lint-free cloth
Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Paint Kit
Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Paint creates a hard surface for dry erase markers. Use the White Dry Erase Paint to create your own custom white board or the Clear Dry Erase Paint to create a dry erase board in any color! Write messages on it over and over.
Use to Create:
- Idea Board
- Event Calendar
- Drawing Canvas
- Message Center
- Think Board
- Plan Board
Countless uses at home or at the office
Features and Tips
Low odor makes it safe to use indoors
Use a dense foam roller for a smooth finish
Primer not required for previously painted or metal surfaces
- To minimize ghosting, avoid using Neon or Pink Dry Erase Markers.
- Clean board with a Dry Eraser or Microfiber Cloth.
- Use Dry Erase Cleaner to remove any ghosting.
Ideal for Interior Use on:
1. Clean Surface.
A Dense Foam Roller, for Smaller, Tighter Spaces use a Foam Brush.
2. Mix Parts A & B for 2 minutes.
Allow to Cure for 3 days.
|Surfaces||Drywall, Masonite, Wood, Cement, Metal||Drywall, Wood, Metal|
|Primer||Zinsser BullsEye 1-2-3 White Primer recommended for bare surfaces or over dark surfaces||Clear primer recommended for bare or porous surfaces|
|Number of Coats||2 over light surfaces, 3 over dark surface||2|
|Dry to Touch||1 Hour||3-4 Hours|
|Cure Time||3 Days||3 Days|
|Working Time / Pot Life||60 Minutes||90 Minutes|
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|Shipping||—||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping|
|Sold By||Available from these sellers||Writeyboard||Zack's Edu Castle||ThinkBoard||Zack's Edu Castle||The Prime Sellers|
|Item Dimensions||4.25 x 4.25 x 7.8 in||3 x 8 x 8 in||5 x 7 x 10 in||0.01 x 96 x 48 in||—||—|
Dry Erase Paint transforms interior surfaces including drywall, masonry, wood, cement, metal and more into a writeable-erasable surface. Go ahead and draw on the walls, it erases! A clever way to keep track of daily chores, draw plans in a meeting or keep the kids occupied. Remove markings with an eraser, lint free cloth or dry erase cleaner. Easy to apply and ready for markers in 3 days. Note after blending paint for application, it must be used within 1 hour. Apply blue painters tape around the area you wish to paint and apply 2 to 3 coats. Wait 10-15 minutes between coats and apply a primer prior to use over dark color, bare wood and new drywall.
From the Manufacturer
Dry Erase creates a unique writeable-erasable surface for walls, doors, cabinet doors, message centers, menu boards, toy chests, easels, and craft projects. Customize dry erase surface into any unique shape or place in office or home. Only paint of its kind that creates a true writable-erasable finish. The date on the product is the manufacturer date.
Top customer reviews
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1. The number one reason for product failure is expired product. End of story. This paint is only good for one year from date of manufacture. To determine the manufacturing date, look at the number printed on the bottom of the large can. Let's say it says 83219R. The representative told me to disregard the first and last digits and look at those in the middle. This paint would have been manufactured on February 19, 2013 (year is first, then month, then date). If it's more than a year from manufacture return it because it will fail. I realize this contradicts another excellent review that said to look at the last digit on the bottom of the can. It's possible that Rust-Oleum changed their numbering system and may do so again. When in doubt, call. I also would not purchase this product online because you can't personally check the cans (sorry, Amazon). The first cans I bought at Home Depot were indeed expired and when I exchanged them for newer product Home Depot put my expired cans back on the shelf and pretty much ignored what I said. So some other poor sap is going to have a dry erase wall from hell. I would suggest checking every can before purchase, period. You can hold a summoning and bring Michelangelo himself back from the dead to paint your wall, but if the product is expired it will suck regardless of who puts it on.
2. The second reason for failure is using the product too long after mixing. It's only good for 60 minutes after mixing the two cans. Period. If you start to get clumps, bumps or whatever it's been out too long and will fail. Don't put it on the wall, call Rust-Oleum and pitch a fit. I used a disposable paint tray and did the cut-in work last so that the freshest paint was rollered on to the largest portion of the wall. I discarded the disposable tray when I did a second coat so that there was no product older than one hour mixing with the fresh product. The fresher, the better. That seemed to work really well.
3. Rust-Oleum says that two coats is sufficient. I disagree. When I had put two coats on my wall it was evident that the coverage was uneven so I added a third coat. This seemed to work. A fourth probably wouldn't be amiss, either, but I was honestly getting tired of this whole saga and decided three was enough. So far, so good.
4. Use the rollers that they recommend. If you don't, you get bubbles, sticky drips, etc. When using the recommended rollers it went on exactly as described. I got the wrong roller when I went back for the third coat and had to re-do it with a foam brush to get rid of the bubbles - tedious, to say the least, but I deserved it for taking a shortcut. So follow directions.
5. Once it's dry use the recommended markers - no low odor! We used expo traditional markers and they were just fine. The expo remover is also helpful in cleaning off completely, when you just erase it does leave a faint mark. My 8-year-old can clean the wall just fine, and the fact that he cleans anything is a miracle enough to give a positive rating.
6. It is not necessary to skim coat, sand or otherwise reconstruct your wall prior to painting. (Reference previous comment regarding Michelangelo.) I simply painted the wall with a good primer and applied the dry erase paint over that. Your wall can be as smooth as a baby's backside but if your paint is old your writing won't erase, you will be pissed off and come to Amazon to write a scathing review. You don't have to kill yourself with renovations to make it work!
After the wall had cured we tried drawing on it and it worked fine. My son is drawing super heroes to his heart's content without the mess of a chalk wall. They erase beautifully and he moves on to the next theme. So, success!!
I gave this product four stars because I believe Rust-Oleum needs to seriously examine their packaging and consumer education. It needs to plainly state how to identify if your product is expired. This isn't a fast moving product so it's very likely stuff on the shelf in your store is going to be expired and the product is getting a bad reputation because people are using old paint. They also need to train their front end people (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) to pull old kits so that more people have successful experiences with fresh kits. They also need to stress not mixing old paint (more than one hour old) with new paint. So don't pour your new mix into your old tray with remnants of the previous kit. It's more complicated than the chalk paint and their packaging and directions need to reflect that, but don't.
So yes, we have a totally cool dry erase wall, but I practically had to get a Master's Degree in Dry Erase Studies to ensure it was successful. It's worth it if you plan ahead and make sure you're getting the right product and using it as directed.
I've had the wall for a year and have had very few problems with it. If you leave something up for a long time it doesn't easily erase with the eraser but comes off without difficulty using Expo cleaner or Windex. Different colors of markers are harder to get off, like purple - but again, Windex removes everything so it's not an issue.
I'm really happy with this purchase. There are no stains and it looks fantastic.
UPDATE FEBRUARY, 2016
Here's a picture, two years on. Any smudging can be removed with the expo cleaner or Windex. It looks a little yellow because I took the photo after dark. Honestly, I'm pretty happy with it!
1) make sure the kit is within the 1 year expiration. Date is inside the box on the cans.
2) paint the surface you're going to use with a primer. Let it dry for a full week.
3) mix the kit and use within one hour. Seriously. Set a timer. You'll be painting over it when its a little tacky but it will work.
4) Paint with the foam roller the kit recommends. Just do it. If you use something else the texture will be off.
5) Let it sit for a week. 7 days. No cheating.
6) Use expensive, brand name markers. Expo works for me just fine. Some colors come off easier than others but they all come off with either a little more elbow grease or Expo liquid cleaner.
Also, the box says this kit will cover a 7' x 7' space with a few coats. I covered a 4' x 15' space with four coats just fine. The box recommends a minimum of 2 coats but I would go for at least 4.
I will have to do a follow up later this year to say how well this product held up in a first grade classroom but for now I'm so pleased with my new white boards!
These Dry-Erase kits have a shelf-life of 2 years. Anything over that, and the paint won't mix properly. There's no way to check the date on the box, but there's a code on the bottom of the cans that can help you figure out how long your kit has been on the shelf. (The cans are stamped with a code that begins with a letter and a number; the number corresponds with the year in which it was packaged. For example, T9 or P0 would be 2009 and 2010 respectively.) For this reason, I wouldn't recommend buying this product online. Find it in a store and check the cans.
Another way to tell if the paint is old is to check its consistency. This is an epoxy, so it won't be as smooth as a latex-based paint. However, your paint stick should go through to the bottom cleanly. If there's an inch of gunk at the bottom, it's been sitting around a long, long time.
If you've gotten an old kit (and still have your receipt), you can contact Rustoleum (800-323-3584) for a hassle-free full refund. You can also remove the paint by using an epoxy stripper like Jasco Spray Paint Remover or Peel Away.
Now, for the good news. These kits--if you can find one that isn't archaic--work remarkably well. I managed to find a kit with a T0 stamp on it, applied it directly on top of the old kit, and it works wonderfully. I have noticed some colors don't erase as clean as others--red and green give me some grief, and the low-odor Expo markers don't work as well as the regular ones--but that's nothing I didn't experience with my old dry-erase board, and a few squirts of dry erase cleaner takes off 90% of any remaining 'shadows'.