|Item Weight||3 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||2.2 x 2 x 2.2 inches|
|California residents||Click here for Proposition 65 warning|
|Item model number||7860519|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Coverage||70-110 sq ft|
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Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White
- Enter your model number to make sure this fits.
- Prepare and paint surface the same day with a tough, 2-part epoxy acrylic formula that withstands moisture and resists corrosion
- For best results, thoroughly mix parts A and B separately before mixing together for 2 minutes--once combined be sure to use within 6 hours of mixing
- Each kit covers up to 110 sq ft; two coats highly recommended; wait 1-2 hours to recoat allow to dry for 3 days before exposing to water
- Make sure to adequately ventilate area by opening windows and turning on a fan to circulate air
- Properly prep surface and read all directions included in kit thoroughly before beginning project
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From the manufacturer
One kit covers 2 coats over a standard bathtub
Rust-Oleum Specialty Tub and Tile Refinishing
Apply a Smooth, Porcelain-Like Finish in just hours.
- Use to Update and Renew Tub and Tile Surfaces with a Washable, Water-Proof Finish
- Refreshes with the look of Porcelain or Ceramic Tile
- Superior Adhesion in Water
- Self Leveling Minimizes Brush Strokes and Makes for Easy Application
- Excellent Wear & Abrasion Resistance
- Flexible Application - Short Nap Roller or Sprayer
- No Yellowing
Use to Paint Tubs, Sinks and Wall Tile
Demo Free Product
- Update Bathrooms or Kitchens easily with no Messy Demo
Works on Ceramic Tile, Porcelain, Fiberglass, Acrylic, Cast Iron or Steel Surfaces.
Works on Interior Surfaces.
Even works for Painting Kitchen Backsplash.
Cleaning Supplies Needed
- Bleach (if needed to remove mildew).
- Abrasive Cleanser like Comet.
- Abrasive Pad.
- Sandpaper (#400/#600 grit wet/dry).
- Tack Cloth.
- Room Fan.
Paint Supplies Needed
- Wooden Stir Stick.
- Latex Gloves.
- Lacquer Thinner or Isopropyl Alcohol for Clean-Up.
- One of the Following:
1. High-Quality, Short Nap Kitchen & Bath Roller.
2. High-Quality, Fine Bristle Varnish Brush.
3. Conventional or Airless Sprayer.
- Remove metal drains, sand or wire brush peeling paint away.
- Repair chips or cracks with patching compound.
- Remove any mildew with solution of bleach and water.
- Scrub surface with an abrasive cleaner and rinse thoroughly.
- Remove all caulk and wipe area clean.
- Prepare surface with an abrasive pad and Lime-A-Way.
- Sand surface with #400/#600 grit wet/dry sandpaper & rinse.
- Before painting, wipe surface dry with tack cloth.
- Use painter's tape to mask coverage area.
- Open windows and/or turn on fans for proper ventilation.
- Mix Part A and Part B separately, then together with stir stick.
- Apply paint with high quality 4" nap roller.
- Allow to dry at least one hour before applying second coat.
- Allow to dry 3 days before exposing to water.
Tips and Tricks for Perfect Results!
- Use a standard household cleaner prior to painting.
- Avoid use of muriatic acid.
- Avoid excessive rolling.
- Use light, even strokes while keeping a wet edge.
- Bubbles created will disappear in the self leveling phase.
- For touch ups and corners, use a small foam brush.
- Use within 6 hours of mixing.
- Remove painter's tape 1 hour after final topcoat.
- Re-caulk affected areas of tub prior to using.
- Allow paint to dry/cure for 3+ days before exposing to water.
- Watch How to Video/Read Complete Instructions before use.
Specialty Tub & Tile Refinishing kit is unique product that combines the durability of an acrylic with a 2-part epoxy paint formula. Provides excellent adhesion and color retention in high moisture areas. Makes old tile look new again with a coating that provides the look and feel of porcelain without the mess or cost of complete tile replacement. Works great to renew ceramic or porcelain tile, fiberglass, acrylic, cast iron and steel tubs and sinks. Not for use on galvanized steel, flexible plastic or areas subject to continuous water immersion like fountains, swimming pools or hot tubs.
From the Manufacturer
Rust-Oleum Tub and Tile Refinishing kit is a durable high-performance, epoxy, acrylic paint that combines the performance of a professional quality formula with the convince of a consumer-friendly process.
Top customer reviews
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I was refinishing a very old clawfoot tub, that my wife ruined the finish on, by trying to clean it with the wrong product. I spent quite a bit of time prepping and cleaning the surface, so I think I was okay there.
The product is an epoxy paint, very tough. It's the first time I worked with epoxy and I didn't wear a mask for the first coat. Just about knocked myself out, and felt in shock for a few hours after. Next coats I used a proper canister-type mask. It's really essential, even if you have a window and fan (like I had).
I was busy doing some other renovations, so I didn't get back to doing a second coat until a week or so later. The fumes from drying can still persist weeks after, so I think it's good to allow lots of time before using.
When I applied the second coat, I got a few small spots that bubbled. I don't know why, but the paint underneath the new coat lifted up also. From other reviews, this is an unsolvable problem. You can sand down, and apply a bit over, but the solvent in the paint just lifts up the edges and wrinkles them, so your spot becomes bigger and bigger.
I wasn't ready to give up, since the tub is probably about 300 pounds and I didn't have a way of removing it from the house. So I tried a number of primers to see if I could get a coat of something else on before I put more epoxy on top. They also lifted the paint. I talked to an autobody shop and they said they could sell me some epoxy primer, but we both suspected it would also have lifted the paint. The problem is in the solvent. If it can get under the coat of paint, it lifts.
So I went to the hardware store. I thought maybe some kind of latex primer..?? The lady suggested Weldbond glue. I looked at the product and it said it stuck to porcelain. So I got some and tried it. And...it worked!!
So far, it has held. It did produce a small bump, because I was afraid of making the Weldbond layer too thin, thus allowing paint to get in. But it held, and I was able to paint new epoxy on top to cover it.
I also had a few small chips get in the tub, when I dropped a plastic shower head holder. I also put Weldbond on these, let it dry for a day, and then and painted over the spots. They are holding well.
The problem I had, and that some others have had too, is that for some reason, the epoxy did not adhere correctly to some small areas. I swore I prepped it well, with bleach, tsp, sanding, lime away, and acetone.
With some research, I found out that the professionals use an acrylic urethane with a binder layer that goes on first. This kind of paint and binder will set you back about $150, and you need to spray it on. But I think if I did it again (because of the value of an antique clawfoot tub) I would do it the proper way. The key is the binder layer, which prevents this kind of problem.
Because this product does not have a binder or primer layer, the danger of something getting through the paint surface and lifting the paint is a possibility. It would be good if Rust-Oleum addressed this issue with a simple solution, or at least a warning. Otherwise, I think the paint itself is a decent product. There's just no backup solution if it happens to bubble or lift on you. Until now, anyway! Weldbond works.
If you find this tip useful, please vote up this review so others can find the solution also.
Afternote: I also tried a few different rollers. The first roller I tried was called "White Dove", a good quality fiber one, but it left little fibers all over the place. The next roller was a plain white "hi-density" foam, which worked well. I did a third coat and tried an even better "hi-density" roller, which was a slightly yellow color and velvety to the touch. It didn't work so well, and also started leaving a few bits in the paint. So stick with the "hi-density" foam (and a good quality brush to handle the areas the foam can't reach). People who said that the paint dissolved their foam roller were not using the hi-density kind.
1. Don't buy the roller that Amazon recommends...do not buy one that has one of the 'foam' style roller parts. Buy a roller that is a harder plastic with the white felty-like part. The foam completely disintegrated on me. The drawback to the more rigid roller is that it makes getting into the curvy parts of the bathtub/sink areas tricky. Use a paint brush for these areas.
2. Do not think that letting the product sit 'longer' than 30 min-1 hour between first and second coats will make things better. I put one coat on some things, let it sit over night, and applied the second coat the next day. The areas that I applied the second coat within the 30min-1 hour range turned out much better. Areas I waited the next day to apply were slightly 'crackly' or have more of a hammered look. My fault!
3. It smells AWFUL. Do not use this in poorly ventilated areas-sounds like duh- but seriously-add a fan to your list of items to have on hand and open windows-blow fan so air goes outward otherwise you could blow dust particles inward which will then stick to all your hard work.
4. Try to let it sit longer than the 3 days if possible and do not color your hair or wash anything with dyes in it if you need to for a while...probably another duh-moment but the paint even after 3 days seems to want to absorb any color that it comes into contact with. I noticed it isn't as sensitive after a while longer.
5. Mentally prepare yourself for a gorgeous white bathroom. I went from a strange pink/brown bathroom to white and I am amazed at how much dirt accumulates and how that awful pink/brown hid so much! Your gonna want to make bathroom cleaning appear on chore lists a bit more frequently to keep it fresh.
6. Also, works amazingly well on wall tiles! I could see this being a great solution for kitchen back splash remodels on a budget as well.
7. Splurge on a new paint brush-don't use a paint brush that you've used previously and may have some sort of residues in it. Get a new paint brush just for this-and, it may sound wasteful but throw it away after-cleaning this stuff is not fun.
No regrets. It feels like a whole new bathroom. Check out my before and after pictures. It turned out better than I expected. My entire bathroom remodel consisted of:
-Tub and Tile resurfacing kits by RustOlium (I used it on the sink, tile walls, tub, and shower walls which took me 3 boxes (2 coats on everything) and nothing to spare at the end)= about 60 dollars
-New roller and rolls (habitat for humanity restore)= 8 dollars
-Used old paint brushes-next time would buy new one just for this so I've added it= 8 dollars
-I used an aluminum 'lasagna' tray for holding the paint-I buy in bulk at costco so one= 1 dollar?
-Lime Away= 10 dollars from Lowes
-Tack cloths= 2 dollars from Lowes (one set of cloths is all you should need)
-New door handles= 8 dollars from Lowes
-White trim paint for door (already had it from previous projects)
-Gray paint for walls (already had it from previous projects)
-Stick down linoleum tiles from Lowes= 35 dollars
-New curtain rod and hooks= 18 dollars from Lowes
-New shower head and hose from Amazon with chromeo therapy (light) features=about 27 dollars total
-New sink faucet= 35 dollars at Lowes
-New shower curtain= Amazon for about 20 dollars-super neat curtain highly recommended
Project total time while working full time job= 1 week
Total Cost= approx 232 dollars...the finished look...priceless!