|Manufacturer||Woodstock International INC|
|Item Weight||12.79 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||10.63 x 13.38 x 9.5 inches|
|Item model number||W1835|
|Power Source||Corded Electric|
|Amperage Capacity||9 Amps|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Cord Length||6 Feet|
|Number of Handles||2|
|Blade Edge||Carbide Tips|
SHOP FOX W1835 Track Saw
|Item Dimensions LxWxH||10.63 x 13.38 x 9.5 inches|
|Power Source||Corded Electric|
About this item
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- 120-Volt, 9A, 1.1 kW, 5500 RPM
- Blade rim speed is 9070 feet per minute
- Blade size is 160mm diameter and 20mm arbor
- Features 1-1/2-inch dust port for collection to a shop vacuum or dust collection system
- Portable and highly accurate
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From the manufacturer
Shop Fox Track Saw
Built to Last
The Shop Fox W1835 has been specially designed to provide many years of trouble free service. Close attention to detail, ruggedly built parts and a rigid quality control program ensure safe and reliable operation.
Shop Fox W1835 Track Saw
This is a great portable option for accurately cutting sheet goods without a table saw or panel saw. Designed to be used with the D4362 Shop Fox Guide Rail and D4363 Accessory Pack (not included), the track saw and guide rail combination is great for trimming door bottoms, making plunge cuts in the middle panels and cutting full sheets of plywood. Even when used without the guide rail, this saw is a highly accurate, and provides additional safety over traditional cutting circular saw.
- Motor: 120V, 9A, 1.1 kW, 5500 RPM
- Included Saw blade: 160mm x 20mm x 48T
- For optimal performance, add the optional 50" Guide Rail (D4362) and Accessory Pack (D4363) when ordering
Shown with Optional Accessories
This reasonably priced saw is packed with features such as a bevel gauge with lock for performing bevel cuts up to 45-degrees, a 1-1/2-inch adjustable dust collection port, primary and secondary handles for stability while cutting, continuous cutting depth limiter and spring-loaded riving knife to reduce the risk of kickback or pinching.
- Motor: 120V, 9A, 1.1 kW, 5500 RPM.
- Blade rim speed: 9,070 ft per minute.
- Max. cutting depth at 90D: without rail 2-5/32-inch, with rail 1-31/32-inch.
- Max. cutting depth at 45D: without rail 1-5/8-inch, with rail 1-7/16-inch.
- Dust port diameter: 1-1/2-inch.
Plunge and Straight Cutting
Plunge cuts are made by positioning the track or saw directly on the workpiece so that the blade begins cutting as soon as it is lowered. This type of cut works well for removing an area within the workpiece without sawing through the outer perimeter. The plunge action eliminates dangerous flip-up blade guards and the riving knife lowers the risk of blade pinching and the resultant kickback. Cut indicator arrows show where the plunge cut will start and stop when the blade is fully extended. The optional D4362 Guide Rail is indispensable when used with the Track Saw for precise cuts with little to no tear-out.
Using the Shop Fox Track Saw with the D4362 Guide Rail allows for quick and precise cuts with minimal setup time. Both straight cuts and plunge cuts can be made in conjunction with the guide rail. To get the most out of your track saw when using it with the mated guide rail, we recommend the D4363 accessory pack as well - which is invaluable for consistently uniform cuts.
- Continuous cutting depth limiter.
- Anti-kickback protection.
- Dust port for shop vacuum.
- Low profile blade guard for cuts as close as 5/8-inch from wall.
- Saw weight: 11 lbs.
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|Sold By||Available from these sellers||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com|
|Included Components||attachments||6-1/2" Plunge Circular Saw (SP6000J); 6-1/2" 48T Carbide-Tipped Saw Blade (B-07353); Hex Wrench (783203-8); Interlocking Case, X-Large (197213-3); 55" Guide Rail (194368-5)||18V X2 LXT (36V) Brushless 6-1/2" Plunge Circular Saw (XPS01Z); (2) 18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah Battery (BL1850B); 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Dual Port Charger (DC18RD); 6-1/2" 55T C.T. Cordless Plunge Saw Blade, Wood, Mdf, Lam. (B-57071); Hex Wrench (783203-8); Interlocking Case, X-Large (197213-3); Interlocking Case, Medium (197211-7)||Plunge Saw, (1) 48-tooth carbide-tipped blade, (1) dust-collection bag, (1) carrying bag||Circular Saw, 24-Tooth Carbide Blade, Wrench, Carry Bag||Blade, Track|
|Item Dimensions||10.63 x 13.38 x 9.50 inches||75.00 x 14.75 x 24.25 inches||12.10 x 16.00 x 19.60 inches||8.00 x 10.00 x 10.00 inches||14.25 x 9.75 x 8.50 inches||—|
|Number of Items||1||1||1||1||1||—|
|Power Source||Corded Electric||Hardwire||Battery Powered||—||AC||Corded Electric|
|Voltage||120 volts||110 volts||36 volts||—||60 volts||120 volts|
Shop Fox W1835 Track Saw w/ Plunge Cutting Action and True Riving Knife
Top reviews from the United States
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The necessary modifications:
Remove the guide strips on the track, and place them further apart. If you are careful you can reuse the adhesive, otherwise some double stick carpet tape works well. As an alternative, you can completely remove the guides, and put some UHMW tape on the bottom of the saw. The channels left behind in the track actually help to keep saw dust from building up. My saw had a very slight bow to the base, and was scraping in the center, so this was not an option. If you really want the saw to guide super smoothly, put a layer of UHMW self-adhesive tape on the base of the saw directly in line with the guides. Add a thin layer of paste wax, and you are gold. Bear in mind if you make these modifications you will probably not be able to use the clamp from the accessory kit to keep the saw from coming off the track when you do bevel cuts or extend the saw off the end of the track. A few videos on YouTube mentioned they got rid of the wobble in the saw by simply using this guide, so you may want to try that before removing the guide strips. In my limited experience with this, I found the edge guide binds, so I'm glad I moved the guide strips and added the UHMW tape.
Get yourself a decent saw blade; the stock blade is crap. The Oshlum is an inexpensive decent blade to get you started. I'm sure the $50 Freud or Festool blade is even better, but I'm getting some pretty decent quality from the Oshlum, and for $25 it's a pretty good value.
Don't assume that the saw is cutting a perfect 90° to the base. Mine was way off. Best way I found to adjust this is to remove the blade guard, which exposes the entire blade, and then it's very easy to adjust using a high-quality square. There's a small set screw to adjust.
Dust collection: get yourself a piece of Lexan, not acrylic, and cut yourself a cover for the blade opening. One small screw will hold it in place. (see pic). You will have to drill and tap. On the other side of the blade, get yourself a piece of clear mylar. Transparency film works well, or perhaps some sheet protectors. You want mylar. Make folds about every 3/8 of an inch. You'll have to play around with a template, but within 15 min. you can get something to fit pretty well. A piece of gorilla tape on the top and bottom holds it in place. This takes dust collection to the next level,, so worth the effort in my opinion.
Plunge spring. Either cut about a half inch off the stock spring or change the spring for a different one. McMaster Carrr or Grainger both have half-inch springs. I believe the wire diameter is .63. I use the galvanized steel one from McMaster Carr, and very happy with it. Grainger sells the exact same one, but wanted a fortune for shipping. Replacing the spring is better than shortening the stock one-- I tried both methods.
Allen wrench holder: I don't know how many tools I have that came with various wrenches, but without a way to attach them to the tool, they end up everywhere except where you need them. I picked up this little thumbscrew off of Amazon. It's an M4 thread. I think I paid five dollars for it, which was outrageous, but finding metric thumbscrews in the U.S. is not an easy task. Bottom line, it works, and I have the Allen wrench when I need it to change blades.
Waste side splinter guard: this modification took the most time, but brings the saw to the next level. If you don't want to have to make a 2nd cut to clean up the waste side of your stock, take the time to make one of these splinter guards. The picture should be self-explanatory. I use a 3/8" drill for the larger holes, and then some slightly oversize holes for the shaft of the screw. You want a little bit of wiggle room for adjustment. Use some number six by half-inch screws to attach the sacrificial base. If you change blades, you will have to change the base. I added a small strip of UHMW tape to the bottom, and be sure to bevel the leading edge or it will catch. I uploaded a few images to show the results. Well worth the trouble.
With the modifications I'm very happy with the saw. I use a cheap little armor-all $30 vacuum cleaner, and it works great without blowing fuses, and weighs next to nothing. Recommended as well as a cheap companion to the saw.
I didn't bother to readjust the depth setting. Some people add a little piece of wood to the depth gauge, but I just made a little note to add a quarter of an inch to the depth-- works for me.
Hope these tips help! This is a good little saw when you take the time to modify it. Sure it would be nice if the manufacturer did this, but they don't. Get over and do the modifications--you'll be glad you did!
One little update: I purchased two of the Grizzly 55 inch tracks, along with two of the rail connectors. I really didn't think it would be a big deal to join these two together with the aid of say a 4 foot level and get everything nice and straight. I just tried my first eight-foot rip today, and I had one heck of a time trying to get the rails aligned properly. The biggest issue is the connecting guides are on the bottom, and the best place to align things is from the aluminum rail on the top. There is so much leverage on the small rail connectors that it's really easy to knock out of place if you just snug one of the screws and then flip it around. I'm sure there's a solution here, but so far I'm finding it pretty difficult to get to rails in perfect alignment. If anyone has a procedure that has worked for them, please share!
The modification recommendations you'll find online with a quick Google search will dramatically improve your experience, but even out of the box, it's an excellent tool. I have two 55" tracks and have moved the plastic runners on them to eliminate rocking during the cut, have modified the spring tension, and replaced the blade with a better one . . . and the saw gets daily use in my shop.
I use this to break down sheet goods, rip a straight edge on rough cut slabs that come off of my mill, trim doors, panels, and table tops, and lots of other tasks. In fact, it's replaced my format slider unless I'm doing a large run of cabinets where I need to do production-line style cuts with identical measurements on multiple pieces. Otherwise, I find the track saw to be more flexible, easier to use, and just as accurate.
I'd like to have greater cut depth so that I could use it effectively on 10/4 and 12/4 slabs, but that's an unreasonable demand for a tool at this price point. I also wish that the depth stop was smoother when adjusting, but it's functional though not pleasant to use.
Overall, this is a great addition to my shop and it's worked wonderfully after modification. I'd say that most shops would benefit in both quality and safety by adding a track saw to the tool bin.
I read a lot of reviews on this saw and I think that most of the bad ones are coming from carpenters using this for the wrong job. Some guys were trying to rip a 2x4 and it was drifting on them. Well duh! Don’t use this saw for that, use a table saw to rip lumber. Others complained about the spring being too stiff. Well I bet they have a handshake like an 80 year old woman with arthritis. As my father said, “Never trust a man with a limp handshake.” (He also said to never date a woman crazier than you are so I trust him on these things) If money was not a problem I would go for the dewalt or festool but I’m a self employed cabinet maker who doesn’t have this luxury. If you’re like me then this is a great tool, but if you’re a limp wristed Scrooge mcduck who goes swimming in a giant pool of gold coins every night then go for the more expensive track saws.