|Item Weight||19 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||15.9 x 13.5 x 6.5 inches|
|Item model number||PPRH5|
|Discontinued by manufacturer||Yes|
|Manufacturer Part Number||PPRH5|
Other Sellers on Amazon
+ Free Shipping
+ Free Shipping
+ Free Shipping
STANLEY PPRH5 Professional Power Station: 1000 Peak/500 Instant Amps, 500W Inverter, 120 PSI Air Compressor
- Enter your model number to make sure this fits.
- 500 amps / 1000 peak amps jump starter with heavy duty cables and clamps
- Portable household power up to 500 watts of continuous power
- 120 PSI digital piston-driven compressor with sure-fit nozzle for tires, sports equipment and more
- 120-volt AC outlets with on/off switch provides AC power anywhere; high-powered ultra-bright LED emergency light
- Reverse polarity alarm to alert when there is an improper connection, Power and charge indicator, All Metal Powder Coated Clamps
|Special Shipping Information: This product may not be available for 1 or 2 day shipping due to federal regulations that require it to ship via ground ship methods only. This product can only be shipped within the 48 contiguous states.
Frequently bought together
Customers who bought this item also bought
Compare to similar items
|Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping|
|Item Dimensions||13.5 x 15.9 x 6.5 in||13.5 x 16 x 6 in||6 x 15.25 x 13 in||14 x 12.5 x 19.75 in||4 x 11.25 x 10 in||6.25 x 7.5 x 9.75 in|
Have a question?
Find answers in product info, Q&As, reviews
Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question.
When you are on the move, don't be tied down to a household power outlet for your electrical power needs. The Stanley Professional Power Station combines a portable household AC power supply and DC power supply with a jump-starter and 120 PSI air-compressor. Whether you are headed to the beach, campsite, or tailgate party, you can power up and recharge your personal electronics for up to 10 hours. Charge laptops, cell phones, MP3 players, lights, radios, and more. If you are stranded on the road with a dead car battery, you don't need another vehicle; you can jump start your battery instantly with this power station. The Stanley 120 PSI compressor fills vehicle tires, bicycle tires and sports equipment with ease. The Stanley 12V DC outlet and USB port allows the user to power or recharge many types of devices and appliances. The Stanley low-profile, anti-roll design gives it a more stable base when being transported. It won’t roll around in your trunk like other jumpers. The 3-LED area light is bright and powerful and located in the best location for use. Never lose or confuse the charger again. This unit has a built-in AC charging cube and can be recharged with any household extension cord. The Stanley Professional Power Station helps get the job done.
From the manufacturer
Stanley Professional Power Station
The biggest problem with power is its never portable and never lasts long enough. All of that is a thing of the past with the powerful and portable Stanley Professional Power Station. This power station is like carrying around your own generator, with the ability to power your personal electronic devices for up to 10 hours on a single charge and because it is both AC and DC compatible you can charge it just about anywhere and with a standard 12 volt extension cord.
The Stanley Power Station also has a built in 120 PSI air compressor, capable of inflating the tires on your car, sports equipment, or every bicycle in the neighborhood and with a brass tipped Surefit nozzle, you'll never have to worry about carrying around the right nozzle ends or wasting precious air because of bad connections.
The Stanley Power Station also has USB capability, giving the option of charging up electronic devices such as cell phones, laptops, MP3 players, and just about anything these days with a USB attachment.
DC and AC power
Portable household power up to 500 watts of continuous power.
Hook it up to your battery, turn the switch on and start your car. It’s that simple. You’re back on the road in no time.
And how about these other cool features like a 120 PSI compressor with a brass tipped SureFit nozzle for secure connections? Perfect for inflating your car tire, sports equipment, bicycle tires or anything else that needs to be pumped up.
The optional DC plug also allows you to charge the Stanley Professional Power Station with your vehicle’s DC port. Plug it in and keep it ready to go at a moment’s notice.
High-powered ultra-bright LED emergency light works great when you are broken down at night and need a better way to be seen by other drivers.
Fully Portable Power Source
With USB, 12 volt, and DC power capabilities you can charge multiple devices for up to 10 hours on a single charge.
Customers who viewed this item also viewed
Top customer reviews
There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later.
Okay, what is the amp-hour rating? Don't worry about it - for jump-starting. Amp-hour ratings are essentially meaningless for this purpose. What is more important for jump-starting is the peak ampere output. This unit is rated at 900 amps peak, so it should be adequate for jumping almost everything but those vehicles with large V-8 gas or diesel engines, and, with proper technique, it may even suffice for those!
So what is "proper technique"? Well, you have to keep some basic electrical facts in mind. When you turn he ignition key to the "Start" position and the starter first energizes, it draws a LOT of current, typically about 300 to 400 amps for "average" cars, and more for larger ones. (Small cars with smaller engines will draw somewhat less.) The relatively small battery in this unit is designed to deliver surprisingly high power for its size, but there are limits imposed by the internal construction of the battery, and the size of the various connections within the power pack itself.
So, you try to start your car, and discover you left the headlights on last night. You grab your handy-dandy little jump-starter and connect it the way the instructions say to: e.g., red clamp to the positive terminal of the battery, and the black clamp to an unpainted metal part of the engine. You get in the car and note, with some satisfaction, that the dome light now comes on. (It didn't before!) You turn the key to the "On" position and watch as the dash comes to life, with all the lights and such. Also, the radio begins to play - good! Now, you turn the key to "Start." The dash goes nearly dead, and you hear a sort of "grunt" from the starter - but no start. Only the dreaded "click-click-click" noise from the starter solenoid that means, "No way, buddy!" @#*#+#^@#!!!
So what did you do wrong? Well, let's see. You have a completely depleted large lead-acid battery in your car. When you connected the jump-starter, the dead battery began to draw a considerable amount of power from the (much smaller!) battery in the power pack, probably something on the order of 200 amps or so, if not more. Then, you turned on the key. All the various systems in the car start to draw power from the battery as well, maybe another 20 to perhaps as much as 100 amps, depending on the car. If you sit there gazing at all the pretty lights and listening to the radio, it will draw that much more power, and that energy is lost forever. Finally when you try to start the car, the power pack has depleted too much of its energy, and simply doesn't have enough left to crank your engine.
So what's the solution? Easy! Just do this: connect the power pack to the dead battery - then go away for a couple of minutes! Don't get in the car; just wait patiently for a while. Why? Because you are giving the power pack time to transfer as much energy as it can to your car's main battery. The main battery is designed to deliver large amounts of energy in short bursts. Then, when you go back outside and get in your car, don't fiddle around. Close the door, make sure the radio and heater/AC are turned off, and then turn the key in one smooth motion from "Off" all the way to the "Start" position. The engine should crank and start normally (assuming it starts normally all the time: if you have a junker, all bets are off!)
Okay, so that problem's solved. Now, back to amp-hours. Where does that become a useful number? Well, it's only good for comparing performance for similar types of batteries being used in fairly low-current usage, such as powering a light (or two, or three...), or maybe even a TV when using an inverter. I'm not going to go into too much detail here; I'll just describe a fairly typical situation.
Let's say you are out camping, and you have a nice little lamp your wife thought was "just darling" for camping. It has a 60 watt incandescent bulb in it, and it lights up your camp site quite nicely, thank you very much. Along with that, you have a 20" flat-screen TV plugged in so you won't have to miss a single episode of "Big Bang Theory." Unfortunately, just as Penny is about to give in (again!) to Leonard's wimpy nerd charm, the power pack gives a distorted whine, and the TV and lamp go out! What? It's been on for less than an hour! What's going on here?
Well, let's see. Using some basic electricity formulas, we can calculate about how long it should last. The battery in my unit says it's rated at 17 amp-hours. (Hmm. It looks awfully small for that rating, but okay...) Now, the lamp is 65 watts. The TV? Uh - let me see... it pulls... let's see... 85 watts.b So - total draw is about 1.5 amps, or 150 watts. One thing we don't know is the efficiency rating of the built-in inverter on the power pack. We can make a pretty good "educated guess", though.
(A quick word about inverters. Their efficiency may vary from something just over 50% when a trickle of power is being used, to something over 90% when the output is approaching the inverters rated output. An inverter will use some power from your batteries even when you are not drawing any AC power from it. This results in low efficiencies at low power levels.)
Since the inverter in this unit is rated at 500 watts, and you've been drawing only 150 watts, let's say it's been operating at...oh, let's be generous and say about 70% efficiency. (Close enough for government work...) That means it's been drawing 195 watts from the battery, or 16.25 amps! Yeah, it's gonna be sucked down in somewhat less than an hour... because the inverter will shut down when the voltage drops below about 11 or so.
If you want to use it for lights, I would recommend you use CFL lamps, or, better still, LEDs. They draw a lot less current. And - forget that TV: it just draws too much. Use your DVR at home to record Big Bang Theory, and watch it when you get back.
Also, don't complain about it not holding a charge when you tried to use it and it was dead after it had been sitting on the shelf for six months! Lead-acid batteries will self-discharge over a fairly short time, and the instructions for these things tell you to recharge them about once a month to keep the battery fully charged. Lead-acid batteries are not happy being discharged to less than 60% of their rated capacity; they will lose their ability to fully recharge if left discharged for very long. Keep it charged up, and it'll last a long time. Anyway, you can leave this unit plugged in to its charger all the time: the manufacturer has designed it so it won't overcharge. That way, it'll be ready whenever you need it.
Finally, the initial charge for these batteries takes about 40 hours. When you get a new unit, the battery has an initial charge on it from the manufacturing process. The plates in the battery have to be charged for the full 40-hour period to "condition" them, otherwise, it will never - ever! - be able to gain full capacity, and, in all probability, not last very long. So, when you first open the box, plug in the charger and connect it to the battery, and let it sit there for a couple of days. Don't pay any attention to the green light: it'll probably come on after anywhere from 12 to 24 hours. Just leave it plugged in for at least the full 40 hours, and it'll be good.
I bought mine knowing all this stuff beforehand, so I would say, yes, it does what it's supposed to do. I'm happy with mine; I think you'll be happy with it, too, if you are careful to make sure it meets your needs before you shell out your hard-earned money.
I needed this item to power a keyboard and amplifier during HS band half time shows. During summer band camp this unit powered not only the keyboard and amp, but also a portable PA system upon initial use. It lasted approx 3.5 hours, but then would not recharge. using the 120V connection or the 12V connection. I tried to look for an internal or external overload fuse, but found none.
Being curious, I found out that I could recharge the battery completely by connecting an external charger directly to the jumper cables. This made sense as this goes directly to the internal battery.
In the end I had to return the product as it would not work as intended (no charging)
The unit arrived promptly with no scratches, dents, bangs or any kind of issues, it looked brand-new. I followed the manufactures instructions and charged the unit for 40 hours. The units charge light indicated that it was fully charged after one and a half hours but I still stuck to 40 hours charging. The manufacture rates the battery at 17 amp hours. While this isn't very large I chose to purchase it to recharge my cell phone and my vaporizer while on camping trips. It works good for this and I also refilled a tire that was low on my van. Like other small compressors the thing was slow but it did top off the tire in about 10 minutes. I currently recommend this product but there are lots of things involved with it I will plan to do an update after using it for a while.