SUPERNIGHT 12V 30A DC Power Supply Driver,360W Universal Regulated Switching Converter AC 110V/220V Transformer Adapter for 3D Printer,CCTV,Radio,Computer Project,Industrial Automation,LED Strip
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| Brand | SUPERNIGHT |
| Item Dimensions LxWxH | 8.7 x 4.7 x 2.2 inches |
| Current Rating | 30 Amps |
| Maximum Frequency | 60 Hz |
| Item Weight | 660 Grams |
About this item
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- Input: 100V-240V, 50/60Hz; Output Voltage:12V DC, Output Current: 0 ~ 30A,Output Voltage adjustable range: ±10%
- High quality switching power supply, stable 12V output, protect your electronic products from destruction
- Smart chip provide overcharge/ overload/ short-circuit/ over-heat protection, Auto-recovery protection
- Perfect for 3D Printer , ham Radio Transceiver , Car Subwoofer amp Audio Amplifier , RC LiPo Chargers and LED Strips
- We promise 30 days worry-free return, 1 year replacement assurance, lifetime after-sale service, 24H x 7Day customer service support
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Product Description
360W 12V 30A DC Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply
High-performance Transformers
Pure Copper Inductors
- AC 110V-220V Switch
- DC 12V 30A
- Aluminum Shell
- IN-DOOR USE ONLY!
Wide Application
- Wide input voltage range, steady and precise output voltage.Great power transformer for electronic equipment, Led Strip Light, home appliance.
High-Quality RAW Material
Maximum Power:360Watts
- Input Voltage: AC110V-220V
- Output Voltage: DC 12V
- Output Current: 30A
- Shell Material: Aluminum case
- Safety Compliance: CCC / Rohs
- Working Temperature: 0~40 ℃/0~104 ℉ S
- torage Temperature: -20~60℃/-68~140℉ Am
- bient Humidity: 0~95% Non-Condensation
Safe to Use
- High effective, reliability with industry standards Bu
- ilt-in over voltage, over current, and short circuit protection
Note:
1. In-door use only, for this switch power supply is not waterproof.
2. 110V/230V is selected by switch. Before power on please check input voltage avoiding damage.
3. The fan will work to dissipate heat.
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| DC 36V to 12V 10A | DC 48V to 12V 10A | 24V 14.6A 350W | DC 30W 12V2.5A | DC 12V 5A | |
| Step Down Converter | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |
| DC 12V | ✓ | ✓ | DC 24V | ✓ | ✓ |
| Waterproof | ✓ | ✓ | Non-waterproof | ✓ | Non-waterproof |
Compare with similar items
Product information
| Product Dimensions | 8.7 x 4.7 x 2.2 inches |
|---|---|
| Item Weight | 1.46 pounds |
| Manufacturer | SUPERNIGHT |
| ASIN | B007MWNF5Q |
| Item model number | LC-003-7 |
| Customer Reviews |
4.4 out of 5 stars |
| Best Sellers Rank | #255 in Computer Power Supplies |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Date First Available | March 21, 2012 |
Warranty & Support
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Customer reviews
Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.
To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Learn more how customers reviews work on AmazonReviewed in the United States on July 23, 2015
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Top reviews
Top reviews from the United States
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A decent enough product at this price point, but I was hoping it would last a little longer. It might for constant loads (LED lights, etc.).
One star off for failing after only a year on low load.
One star off for mode of failure.
Thermal management seems acceptable for lower loads (15-20A)
Voltage is reasonably consistent under various loads.
Fan noise is higher pitched and constant, but my AC is louder.
It should be understood that I realized this was a cheap, knock-off product, so I didn't expect it to run at full load or to be in service for an extended period. An on-brand product would have received a very poor review for this type of performance and mode of failure, but on-brand products are a whole lot more expensive.
Full Review:
This failed one year and change after purchase. I have generally run it at around a 50% load cycle on a 3D printer that draws a maximum of 10 amps and a typical load of 6 to 8 amps. The supply didn't seem to have trouble running that load and rarely became even moderately warm (which is as it should be at 1/3 rated load).
To comment specifically on fan noise, the fan is unnoticeable if my AC is on, but is otherwise a constant hum. The fan runs as expected at this price point, but it does have a bit of a whine to it.
It died today. The fan doesn't spin, so the 12V bus appears to be completely down. Maybe it wasn't meant for such frequent use, but I thought it would be fine at 1/3 load. That was disappointing. I've had it on a UPS, so surges or line noise weren't factors.
The real bummer was that it failed in the middle of a print, which was a bit inconvenient.
Nothing smells of smoke and nothing looks burnt. Initially I couldn't see the issue, but it looks as though one or both of the mains capacitors may have gone bad. I'm glad they didn't pop. One capacitor doesn't register as having any capacitance and the other measures at half its rated value. One came close to blowing (the top of the cap has begun to bulge), so perhaps some style of protection circuitry cut off mains power internally, or maybe something else broke before the capacitors did.
This is an inexpensive variant manufactured overseas (China, specifically) using knock-off components, etc. etc. so I didn't expect it to run at rated capacity or even 2/3 capacity, but I was hoping that since I was at 1/3 load rating it would last a little longer. You get what you pay for.
It seems like other people haven't had my specific issue with this supply based on the top ratings. My (untested) theory is that my printer was a highly variable load which put more strain on the internal components than most comparatively constant loads which would typically be hooked up (LED lighting, for instance).
One important note is on the cooling on this system. It has a fan and the proper venting throughout to make the fan useful for cooling the main board. The serious heat generating components are screwed into a heat sink which in turn is attached to the case. There's a thermal pad between the heat sinks and the case. The amount of thermal compound between the heat sinks and the components, however, is not particularly impressive, mainly because it has been over-applied, which doesn't make for ideal heat transfer (though it's better than one's I've seen that don't have any thermal compound). The heat sinks are also a little smaller than I would prefer to see, but only by a little and at least it has one that's somewhat close to the correct size. While it may handle its rated 30A for a minute or two, I don't know that I'd trust it with more than a 15-20A load for extended periods.
I'll update this review once I get around to replacing the caps. The internals are likely fine aside from the caps, but it's just a question of how many caps I need to replace aside from the two mains ones.
Oh, one last thing: I pulled this open because it was out of warranty and I know what I'm doing. I wouldn't recommend that most folks do that for safety reasons. So, don't do something silly.
Would I recommend it?
If you have a constant, reasonably low load (small motors, LED lights, etc) that aren't too sensitive and have a low replacement cost, this probably works great and is low-cost.
If you are willing to replace the caps, then it will likely last longer and could possibly be used for higher loads.
If you need a reliable power source for medium or high loads (like for a 3D printer), then find something on-brand to use as-is or modify (like an xbox power supply).
So the price was right, i purchased one of these before - this is for another 3d printer. the overall packaging is what youede expect, and i picked this up as it says its UL CE and SA certified - but i tseens unlikely - half the screws are stipped out, there was foreign metal in the board itself which meant i needed to open her up to see what was going on and found a washer??? hmm,... ok... in all cases i found, like on my other order a nice few bends from these being jostled around. the breaks in the metal frame are ALMOST 90 degrees. so i straightened them out. heres the kicker though - on the voltage selector... the blurb about selecting voltage before powering is - you guessed it ENGRISH! I know such a bad term... but its clearly not any of the certifications. and theres no cert sticker or stamp anywhere so buyer beware. they are not listed, and you may have a small fire on your hands. invest in a fused power supply plug.
First and most important: DC ground is floating. It is not connected to AC ground. This is normal but a big source of noise. So to give the PS a RF path to ground I attached two .1uf caps. One from DC+ to AC ground and the other from DC- to AC ground.
Second: The case is attached to AC ground. Again normal, but the case must be attached to your station RF ground.
Third: I used twisted pair power leads to my rig and amplifier. Not sure if that helped, but it can hurt.
I am still checking but as was said, most if not all the noise has been eliminated. If that holds true, it is a good power supply for $29 and price of two capacitors.
P.S. I thought the fan was a bit loud when the amp (100W) was running full tilt. The amp was allowed to run at full power for about 15 minutes. The power supply switching transistors never even became warm. So I make a modification to the power supply and inserted a 50ohm 10W resistor in series with the fan. The fan now runs at half speed when the amp is at full power and the power supply is much more quiet.
By R. D. Harden on October 21, 2021













