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Showing 1-10 of 7,447 reviews(Verified Purchases). See all 7,801 reviews
on January 9, 2014
I had a very sluggish ASUS laptop that was about 2.5yrs old. It had a 2nd gen Intel Core 2 Duo processor. It took forever to boot up and website browsing was very slow. I mainly use my laptop for checking e-mail, web surfing and downloading photos from my digital camera. I'm not a power user so I just couldn't rationalize spending hundreds of dollars to replace it. Plus, I'm not a fan of Windows 8 which is installed on nearly all new laptops which dissuaded me from buying a new laptop (I have Windows 7 now).

Lately I've been hearing how replacing the old mechanical hard drive with an SSD would increase performance of any PC. I wasn't sure how much of an improvement it'd be since I wouldn't be updating the processor. After I put in the SSD it was a whole new world. The laptop booted up in seconds instead of minutes. Applications opened faster and everything was more responsive. Until now I never realized how much the mechanical hard drive bottlenecked the laptop's performance (as opposed to the processor). I don't think adding more RAM can increase performance this much.

I want to let you know that replacing the hard drive was super easy. I was overwhelmed at first because I couldn't find any easy installation instructions on the web. I was afraid that if I did it wrong I would lose all my data (especially my photos) or brick my laptop because I don't have the Windows Operating System installation CD (p.s. you don't need it). I thought I'd share my installation experience for people who are novices like me.

The steps below are for upgrading the hard drive on a regular PC laptop (i.e. I'm not sure if my instructions will work for a MacBook). Most people will just be swapping out their hard drives and likely won't have an external hard drive to back up their data. That is perfectly fine. Also, you don't need the Windows OS installation CD because you won't be reinstalling any software. The steps below will copy EVERYTHING from your old hard drive onto your SSD including your Operating System, Applications, Programs, Photos, device drivers, etc.

Before starting you need to make sure you have the following items:

1) Make sure your new SSD has enough space to copy all your existing data. My original laptop HDD was 300GB, but I was only using 60GB. I bought a 120GB SSD and that was fine.
2) Small phillips head screwdriver (hopefully you already have one in your house)
3) 2.5" SATA III enclosure (purchased separately). I bought the following Sabrent USB 3.0 enclosure and it actually came with a phillips head screwdriver. Personally, I wasn't crazy about the Sabrent enclosure because it looked and felt cheap, but it did the job. Sabrent USB 3.0 To 2.5-Inch Sata Aluminum Hard Drive Enclosure Case (for 9.5mm, 12.5mm 2.5-Inch SATA-I, SATA-II, SATA-III HDD and SSD) Black (EC-TB4P)
4) Hard drive cloning software (Samsung includes this with their SSD).

BASIC steps to upgrade/swap hard drives:

1) Install SSD into 2.5" SATA hard drive enclosure.
2) Plug enclosure into USB port of laptop (USB 3.0 will be a LOT faster than USB 2.0).
3) Install hard drive cloning software onto laptop (Samsung provides the software with SSD).
4) Follow instructions to clone old hard drive from laptop onto new SSD (Samsung software makes it very easy).
5) Shut down your laptop, unplug the power, remove battery and uninstall old hard drive.
6) Remove SSD from enclosure and install into laptop.
7) Reinstall battery, plug in power and restart laptop.
8) You're Done!

Restarting your laptop in step 7 will be super fast. That's when you know that the new SSD was worth the upgrade.
[....]
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on April 8, 2014
This is a quick install guide that I decided to write for anyone that could use some help. Specifically if you are a PC person and your significant other is a Mac user with a slooooow MacBook in need of an upgrade. I will break this review up into sections.

Note: If you are reading this to resolve slow startup into OSX after SSD install skip to section 3. of this review.

1. Preparation
2. Install
3. Finishing actions for proper operation

1. Preparation to install your new shiny SSD
1.a You will need a migration tool (I used the Sabrent kit USB 3.0 to Sata that was suggested in these review) see link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQJME7Y/ref=oh_details_o03_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1.b You will need to download a trim enabler (mid 2012 macbooks only support native trim with apple brand ssd's) I recommend going to cindori.org and downloading trim enabler version 3.xx. You can do this step before or after the OS migration
1.c You cannot use the Samsung SSD migration software *don't worry Mac has its own imaging/migration utility*
1.d You will need a torq bit driver or pliers as well as a small Philips screw driver, and an anti-static wrist strap
2. Installation
2.a SSD migration set up: Attach the power to the Sabrent kit with the inline cord switch off. Attach sata power and data cable to SSD and to the Sabrent kit. Plug in usb cable to the MacBook. You should be prompted to initialize the drive, if not you can initialize in the next step.
2.b select the go menu on the OSX tool bar and open utilities.
2.c Open drive utilities. You should see your Toshiba HD with a subfolder underneath titled Mac HD; below that you should see your SSD device. Highlight the SSD and click the restore option tab in the main window of the utility screen. You will have the option to format the device using the Mac journal format. Go ahead and format your SSD to the journal format; you will also be prompted to name your device. I decided on Samsung SSD, but you can name it whatever you like.
2.d Shut down your MacBook
2.e Power on your MacBook and hold down the command + r keys simultaneously. This will start the MacBook recovery utility.
Note: Mac uses onboard utilities to clone and migrate software. The Samsung migration software will not be used.
2.f Select the drive utility. Then select the restore tab again. This time highlight the "Mac HD" device on the left hand column and ensure that the "Mac HD device" appears in the origination line. Then place cursor in the destination line and select the Samsung SSD device. At this point on your main utility screen under the restoration tab you should see the Mac HD device first and the destination drive on the second line should be your Samsung SSD. Click restore and accept yes for any formatting prompts, etc. This will begin the cloning of the installed hard drive to your new SSD. Will take anywhere from 20 minutes to much longer depending on the size of data. *160 gb's took about 30 minutes on my wifes MacBook*.
2.g Upon completion of the cloning operation you will still be at the recovery utility screen. Go ahead and select the apple icon in the left hand corner and select shutdown. Once the MacBook is off power down the inline Sabrent power cable switch and disconnect all cables to the SSD. Caution! Do not pull up on the sata cables; use a straight pulling motion as to not break the SSD connectors on the controller.
2.h Open the MacBook from the back by removing all fasteners. *orientation of the Macbook is face down with the back of the macbook facing your body* Once open disconnect the power cable; located on the left hand side middle of the MacBook (1 inch black flat connector on the motherboard). Locate the retention bracket for the hard drive and undo the two fasteners. Carefully lift the hard drive out and disconnect the unibody sata power/data rail from the hard drive.
2.i Remove Qty (4) fasteners from hard drive using torq bit or pliers. Note: these fastners have nylock elements and will initially require a good amount of break away torque to undo, so don't be afraid to put a little back into it. Once the fasteners are removed install 4 fasteners into the SSD. Hand tighten the 4 fasteners until the fastener shank with the nylock reaches the SSD mounting thru holes. Use torq bit or pliers to finish tightening the fasteners until the fastener heads are flush with the SSD mounting thru holes.
2.j Install the unibody sata rail onto the SSD and firmly seat. Place the SSD into the MacBook and re-install the retention bracket using the screwdriver. Then re-install the back cover.
3. Finishing touches
Note: initial start ups will be slow, and show no improvement over the replaced hard drive. The subsequent steps below will solve the sluggishness and slow startups.
3.a Before restarting the mackbook Hold ctrl+shift+option+power button down together. Simultaneously release these buttons and then count 10 full seconds.
3.b Power on your MacBook and wait for it to boot. *if data migration and installation were proper it will take 30 to 45 seconds to boot into OSX*
3.c. Download and/or run the Trim enabler from Cindori.org version 3.xx. You will need to left click and drag the download to the application folder. Upon completion open the application folder and click the Trim Enabler program. Trim enabler will prompt warnings for downloaded files from internet, etc, etc, and want to run a helper. Allow them all. Once the program is open it will display a small graphic user interface with a switch that says off to on. Click on the switch to turn on. Once this is done it will should prompt you to reboot your MacBook. Reboot the MacBook.
3.d *again load times for OSX should be 30 to 45 seconds* Once you are back into OSX select the go menu on the OSX toolbar then select utilities. Select the system properties to display devices; on the left hand side you should see a list of all your devices including your "Mac HD" which is your new SSD. Highlight the Mac HD and verify the following: S.M.A.R.T=verified, and T.R.I.M = Yes. They should both be verified and yes.
3.e Now to solve the slowness issue! Select the go menu from the OSX toolbar then select utilities. Locate and select startup disk. Once start up disk menu is open you should see your MAC HD device *new SSD*. Select the Mac HD device as the startup device. You should be prompted to restart. If not manually restart from the restart button shown on the start up disk utility window.
3.f You should now have a 7 to 10 second start time into OSX with your new trim enabled Samsung EVO 840 SSD.

Give MacBook over to wife and bask in the praise for getting rid of the OSX application loading circle!
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on February 16, 2015
Purchased one of these drives about 8 months ago, and another in Dec 2014 when it was on sale. Noticed that the older drive was not quite as snappy as it used to be (previously Windows would boot in 10 or so seconds, now it was noticeably longer) and upon doing some research found that Samsung released a tool to fix that. Ran it, and all was good.

Fast forward to today. Older drive is starting to exhibit the same behavior again. Things don't open immediately like they used to. Boot takes a little longer. I know, #firstworldproblems. Unfortunately, I suppose the newer drive will do the same eventually as well. For reference:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1507897/samsung-840-evo-read-speed-drops-on-old-written-data-in-the-drive
http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Storage/Samsung-840-EVO-Performance-Restoring-Firmware-Only-Partially-Effective

While SSD are always advertised as "up to x speed", it's completely unacceptable for these drives to be performing as poorly as they are after a few months of usage. I suspect, based on my call with Samsung support, that the performance restoration tool that they released will be the only effort they make to correct the issues with this particular drive. I am not happy that a half-fix was released, and that I will have to run it every couple of months to maintain acceptable performance from these drives.

My advice to any potential buyers would be to look at products from another company such as Intel or Crucial. I know when it comes time for me to buy my next set of SSDs that is exactly what I will be doing.
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on August 1, 2014
Installed in a 2010 27" iMac (replacing the existing drive). Works fantastic - it's like a new computer.

If you're installing in an iMac - you should be aware of one issue: your existing hard drive may be a special OEM drive that has an extra cable attached to it for the heat sensor. This is not a standard connection so when you replace this drive with a new one, there is no corresponding port on the new drive for this. No big deal except after booting up the iMac thinks there's a heat problem because it's not getting any feedback from that proprietary cable. So what does it do? Turns the fans on full blast - the normally quiet iMac sounds like it's a rocket about to take off! A little research has found a free application that will tame the fans and make the iMac look at the standard temperature data available from the drive itself. Now all is good with the world again.
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on December 11, 2013
Installed in a 2012 Mac Pro using the "Newer Technology" adapter bracket. Installed without a hitch. Makes my Mac Pro seem like an entirely different machine (in a good way).

When I bought my Mac Pro, I loaded up on RAM (96GB) thinking that this would allow everything to run faster as there would not be as much caching to the HDD. From day one, I was disappointed that my Mac Pro was not faster.

A year later, in an attempt to address an issue where Safari was creating such big swap files on my 7,200 RPM primary drive, I tried this SSD as something of a desperate attempt to increase performance. WOW!!!!!!! I could not believe the difference! Everything runs faster. The OS logs in so fast that I cannot interrupt Adium from auto starting...... by the time I mouse over to the dock, it is logged in! THIS is the computer I thought I had purchased a year ago. In short, don't skimp on RAM but if you want to see an immediate boost in performance, switch to an SSD. Next up...... my 2011 MacBook Pro :)

Just a little by-the-way, I am not running any of the Samsung disk management tools. I have no idea if they would even run on a Mac but I did not even attempt to install them. I was/am so happy with the SSD performance that I didn't want to add something to my system which would be tinkering with how my drive operates.

Update- Mar 2014:
Still works great in my '12 Mac Pro. Bought one for my MacBook Pro a couple of weeks ago. The performance difference is AMAZING, more so in the MacBook Pro as it has a faster SATA interface than the Mac Pro. I have an i7 processor with 16GB of RAM. What seemed to be a laptop scheduled for replacement soon, now screams! This drive in this machine (the MacBook Pro) is quite possibly the most noticeable single enhancement that I have seen in ANY computer that I have owned in the past 20+ years. No joke, it is that great of a difference. In fact, with the SSD in place, the two big differences between my MBP and a new MBP are the Retina Display and USB3, neither of which are pushing me towards an upgrade for a while. I have probably extended the life of this workstation by at least one, if not two new generations of MBPs to come. I have the speed of the current model (minus USB3), so as I see it, my MBP has to break or something much better has to come out of the Apple pipeline.

Oh, swapping drives was a breeze, again. It just took longer this time because I had to hook up my external drive reader via FW800 instead of eSATA, like I could on the Mac Pro. Format the drive to be bootable, swap the drives, hook up the old one externally, boot into Recovery Mode so you can just copy the old drive onto the new one. Yes, it is that easy, provided you are comfortable with the Disk Utility program as that is what you are using to configure the new drive and then to clone the old one (while in Recovery Mode).
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on September 3, 2013
I have a late 2009 MacBook (the white polycarbonate one). It was performing unbearably slowly-- app switching and launching, booting, and even shutting down frequently took minutes. Scrolling in any app that accesses a lot of data (Evernote, even 1Password) was often very laggy. This was true even when I had large amounts of free/inactive memory. It was very frustrating, and I was almost ready to buy a new computer. However, I could see very high disk activity in the Activity Monitor during the slow periods and figured the bottleneck was probably my hard drive... so I went ahead and bought the Samsung 840 Evo and upgraded my RAM to 8 GB (Crucial 8 GB Kit (4 GB x 2) DDR3 1066 MT/s (PC3-8500) CL7 SODIMM 204-Pin for Mac (CT2C4G3S1067M )). Best computer decision of my life; the performance problems evaporated when I put in the Evo and the new RAM. Apps launch in seconds, no laggy scrolling, and I haven't hit the limit in terms of the numbers of things I can have open at once. Highly recommended.

P.S. Make sure you have an appropriate screwdriver (Wiha 96100 Phillips Screwdriver with Precision Handle, 00 x 40mm) and either a USB to SATA cable or a 2.5" hard drive enclosure. The screwdriver is needed to remove the bottom of the MacBook and to release the hard drive; the cable or enclosure is needed to connect the drive to your computer so you can clone your current drive before making the switch. Other screwdrivers might also work. Some articles I read suggested that a "T6" screwdriver was needed, but it wasn't for my MacBook model; can't speak about others.
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on February 23, 2015
Worked great for a month, then the performance dropped. I ran Samsung's "Performance Restoration" tool and it worked great for about 1 hour. Then performance dropped back to where it was. I called Samsung and the rep basically said it's a known issue and I have to wait "about" a month for them to release new firmware.

I decided to Google it and it's been a known issue since January 2014. They have already released firmware claiming to fix it. Well it still doesn't work and I'm really unhappy with my purchase. It's kind of ridiculous.
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on May 9, 2016
I have had this SSD for 2 years now and it is still performing as well as when it was purchased. It has a 6Gb/s interface compatible with SATA 3Gb/s & SATA 1.5Gb/s, supports TRIM, S.M.A.R.T, garbage collection, WWN, and is power efficient. It made a majorly significant improvement to my macbook pro's boot time (22 seconds to 8 seconds) and speed in opening programs. I have since been using it in my desktop PC almost every day, and I have experienced no noticeable loss in performance. Modern solid state drives will likely be replaced before they suffer from decreased performance. This common misconception that SSDs are as fragile if not more so than HDDs is unfounded (this SSD can handle 1.5 million hours of use!) but still persists to this day. And remember, gamers, while an SSD will aid in opening programs and loading speeds, it will not increase the FPS in which your game performs at.

The Samsung Magician software is a great tool for the average computer user who could use some assistance managing the settings which will optimize their SSD capacity and performance. The data migration software makes transferring files incredibly simple and is intuitive to use.

For my use case it has functioned very well. When it was purchased it was one of the best performing solid state drives available to consumers. And while it's price has become much more affordable in the past 2 years, I don't recommend the drive to anyone who is currently looking to purchase one. This is because of the drive issue affecting many 840 evos that has led to performance degradation over time. Samsung has since released a firmware patch and performance tool attempting to solve this issue. While it has worked for many, the issue continues to be a problem for others. In spite of this issue, Samsung's EVO line is still a superior class of SSDs, but I'd recommend that the 850 be purchased instead of the 840.
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on March 13, 2015
I was shocked on a restart today that Hard Drive Sentinel indicted that the performance of this SSD was only 80%. On all others I have, including a smaller Samsung (500gb) for data in this computer give 100%. On their benchmark tests the 1IB SSD fell short on every benchmark that the manufacturer had set. The Random Read test was only 45% of the benchmark and the Random Write test was a horrible 30% of the manufacturer's benchmark.The Samsung cloning installation program failed twice to supply a working Windows SSD. Each time there were multiple errors. To load Windows and my programs I used DiskWipe to clear the SSD and then installed Windows 7 Professional with the Microsoft DVD. After Windows was installed I then used a week old back up copy from Norton Ghost to install the programs and activate Windows (this procedure of reinstalling a copy of an already activated Windows eliminates potential hours of time to perform this simple activation-----------it took Microsoft 2 hours connected to my computer and a NEW product key to get the Windows Activated in December 2013. The SSD now functions but not noticeably faster than the hard drive it replaced.
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on September 24, 2014
I finally believe - after years of holding off, I purchased a SSD and have never been happier.

My first hard drive was a 20MB (that's Mega, not Giga) that cost me around $400. It was years ago and one of the "fastest" models on the street at the time. I was stoked, as it could hold tons of my old floppy (perhaps you've never seen one, so Google what they look like) disks and kept me from having to switch disks every few minutes to play a game or run a program.

As hard drives grew in size, so did software, leading to a never-ending race between manufacturers and software developers. Thankfully, the drives kept up and constantly tweaked platter capacity and spindle speed to get more power, use, and efficiency from this technology. But that's the sticking point - old hard drives required rotating disks, that needed to be "read" in order to load a program. So, no matter how fast or big they got - you still had lag time between sending the command and the actual software loading.

Solid-State Drives (SSDs) have alleviated most of this lag, because there are absolutely NO moving parts. None. The entire concept (in simple terms) is similar to the USB keys we've all grown accustomed to using. The drive is basically large memory capacity memory chips stuck inside a plastic case with an advanced controller (which is tweaked by the developers) to help direct the command from the computer to locate and execute the program/command you are sending. This all happens in near real time!

Imagine your computer loading in just a few seconds, instead of nearly a minute or longer. Imagine software that you use often, loading within a second of clicking it, instead of clicking and waiting as the computer sends the command, but then sits and waits for the hard drive to spin up and find the actual code, process the code and send it to the CPU for processing. Imagine not hearing the spinning sound of your hard drive any longer. Seriously - there are no moving parts to hear. This thin little drives consist of a board, memory chips, a controller, and a sprinkle of magic (okay, the last part may be just my special model...or not).

The one thing to remember about these drives is that they are smaller than regular 3.5" drives. They take up less room, but also require different connectors to fasten them to your machine. Make sure your machine can hold a drive like this or can be modified to hold a drive like this (you can also buy aftermarket brackets to assist). Some folks have left the drive just sitting in their machine (not connected/secured to anything) and while this may be okay if you never plan to move the computer, I am a bit hesitant to have something that can flop around inside my case and damage other parts. As an added bonus, these drives produce very little (read: not zero, but far less than old drives) heat. Since there are no moving parts - the only heat produced comes from the electricity running through the drive when under heavy use.

There is lots of talk about these drives having "limited" shelf life, because the memory can only be rewritten so often before it locks the bit. While that is true - memory like this can only be erased and written so often - but that number is far higher than any average user will ever see in their lifetime of using this drive. And when the bit does finally lock - it locks with the data that is currently on it - not "blank", which means you won't lose your data, you just won't be able to write new data to that block any longer. Not a big deal, again, unless you write/delete/rewrite tons of data to your drive on a daily basis for years on end. I've seen estimates from reputable review sites that estimate it would take the average user 5-10yrs to kill a data bit on these drives. By then, you'll likely upgrade or acquire a new machine anyway.

The one thing that annoys me is the cost of these little things per gigabyte. I know the memory isn't cheap and the technology is new, but you'd think that having no moving parts is cheaper than having expensive moving parts. The good thing is - prices are coming down. Also, these drives aren't huge. While they finally have 1TB drives and growing, you're still better off using an old hard drive that holds 2-3TB for data storage and use a drive like this for your operating system (Windows, Apple OS, or Linux) and software that you want to boost. My configuration has this 256GB drive running my OS and a 1TB drive for all my data (music, movies, games, etc). The benefit is that the software you are running is still enhanced by the speed of this drive and the data being pulled from the other drive is easy and fast enough that you won't notice any issues.

Overall, I'm a big fan of this technology and now consider myself a true believer of the SSD technology hype. While I have not owned this drive for longer periods yet - so cannot speak to reliability - I know that this drive has been tested by countless expert reviewers and none have found any issues to date. Samsung has an excellent software suite that enhances this drive even further and keeps it updated with the latest fixes they develop. You wont' go wrong buying a EVO series drive from Samsung - your only real decision is what size you need to meet your needs.
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