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If I only ever ate one breakfast food forever, it would be eggs. They are so versatile and perfect. Fortunately, though, I don't have to pick just one breakfast food and neither do you. The important thing, as studies have shown, is to eat a good breakfast to start your day off right--fueled and nourished. Breakfast is also the perfect place to start cooking if you're a novice and still learning the basics. I'm always surprised when I meet people who don't know the basics of cooking, which is why I am writing this book. There is no shame in not knowing. In fact, I believe that life should be shame-free, especially in the kitchen. It's one of the most intimate places in our homes, the place we can be our true selves, having just woken up with messy hair and not even brushed our teeth . . . it's the place where our day begins.
The truth is, almost every recipe in this cookbook could be breakfast. Given their druthers, my kids would have soup every morning. Often, they prefer leftovers to traditional breakfast foods, or for that matter repurposing their leftovers into a breakfast dish, such as hard-boiled eggs in leftover marinara sauce. Having said that, we do love the classic breakfast stuff, too.
Silky Buttered Eggs
Ever since having really good buttered eggs at the Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, Vermont, decades ago, I have sought to re-create their delicious silkiness. This recipe is from that memory. I once made these for my daughter's British future father-in-law and he assured me I was making them the proper British way, which made me feel rather good. But what makes me feel even better is that my whole family loves them. SERVES 4
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 to 6 large eggs, lightly beaten
Salt
Buttered toast, for serving
1. In a medium cast-iron skillet, melt the butter over low heat.
2. Pour the eggs into the skillet and let them set slightly, about 20 seconds. Use a spatula to gently and slowly lift and drag the egg across the skillet (no need to stir, just a gentle folding). Repeat until big, soft curds form.
3. Cook the eggs slowly and stop when they are cooked to your liking. Some people like their eggs runny (but not me!), though make sure they don't dry out. Season with salt to taste and serve with toast, if desired.
TIP: You can embellish your eggs any way you like. My former mother-in-law would sprinkle them with grated Romano cheese and chopped mint. You can sprinkle them with chopped chives or parsley and serve with smoked salmon, too.
My Flat Omelet
My brother made this omelet for me once and I've never looked back. Think of it as more of an egg crêpe than an omelet. It's how I make my eggs all the time. And it's how my kids ask me to make eggs all the time. My favorite way to eat this is to fold it between two slices of soft (and preferably squishy) untoasted bread. MAKES 1 OMELET
1 tablespoon butter
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Salt
1. In a medium cast-iron skillet, melt the butter over medium heat.
2. Pour the eggs into the skillet, swirling and tilting it so the egg covers the bottom of the skillet in a thin layer. Cook for a few minutes until the egg has set and is cooked around the edges.
3. Flip the egg and cook a minute more. Season with salt to taste.
TIP: You can fill this with anything you please after you have flipped it. Simply line one side with cheese, ham, or whatever you fancy and fold in half.
What's the Deal with Eggs
Before you can truly understand my philosophy on food, you must understand how I feel about the five important things about eggs: their color, their health benefits, how the hens are raised, storage temperature, and cooking style. Eggs are like a microcosm of my whole approach to food.
1. COLOR: When I was a kid growing up on an organic farm, eggshells were brown and the yolks were orange. But any time I went to a friend's house, the eggshells were white and the yolks were pale yellow. So I developed an inferiority complex about my family's eggs. It wasn't until I was in my early 30s and I read Masanobu Fukuoka's The One-Straw Revolution that I realized a truly healthy egg has orange yolks.
2. HEALTH BENEFITS: Remember when people used to demonize eggs? Too high in cholesterol, they said. Too much fat! Salmonella! Only eat the whites because the yolks are bad for you! I never bought into that. My theory is that if nature makes a chicken and that chicken makes an egg, and the egg has both yolks and whites and it tastes really good when cooked, then it must be good for you. Plus, eggs are high in omega-3 fatty acids, which are good for you.
3. HOW HENS ARE RAISED: The only way to truly know if you are eating a healthy egg is to buy organic, raise your own, or buy from someone you know. Why pay more? Because you are paying for happiness--organic does no harm to people, chickens, or nature--it's worth it. USDA guidelines guarantee that eggs that are certified organic come from cage-free, pasture- raised hens that have outdoor access and are treated humanely.
4. STORAGE TEMPERATURE: This may come as a surprise, but many countries outside of the United States do not refrigerate their eggs! Turns out refrigeration came from fear of salmonella. But neither way of handling eggs is right or wrong, it's just different. An egg is laid with a protective coating, and as long as that egg isn't washed, it's safe to store at room temperature for about 20 days. If that egg is washed, the protective coating is removed and the egg must be refrigerated, where it will last up to 50 days.
5. THE COOKING STYLE: Here is where things get emotional. Everyone from chefs to home cooks have very strong feelings on how eggs should be cooked. Runny or well-done, over-easy or sunny-side-up. But it doesn't really matter, does it? It's what you like that matters. That's why this chapter covers even the most basic ways to cook an egg.
Foolproof Poached Eggs
Poached eggs are one of my favorite breakfast memories from childhood. The eggs were poached in water with a dash of vinegar and the toast still had lumps of butter on it that hadn't melted yet. Plus, my mom would cut it up into little bite-size pieces. This is my re-creation of that memory. SERVES 1
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
2 large eggs
Buttered toast, for serving
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chopped chives, for serving (optional)
1. In a small saucepan, bring 4 cups of water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and add the vinegar. (The vinegar will help the eggs set.)
2. Crack an egg into a small bowl. When the water is at a simmer, slip the egg into the water and gently stir the water (this will help create a nice round shape). Repeat with the second egg.
3. Cook the eggs for 2 minutes for cooked whites and runny yolks. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve the eggs on buttered toast and season with salt and pepper to taste. You can sprinkle some fresh chives on them, if you like.
Huevos Rancheros
If for some reason I had to choose one breakfast dish to live on forever, it would be huevos rancheros. I have a rule that when I travel, if I see huevos rancheros on the menu, I must order it. Consequently, I've eaten all styles and types, from a delicate diet version in one of LA's boutique hotels (not my favorite) to the green salsa-slathered mess at an awesome diner in Wilson, Wyoming (now we're talking!). SERVES 4
Extra virgin olive oil, for the skillet
4 corn or flour tortillas (see page 339)
4 large eggs
Mexicali Beans (page 256)
1 cup shredded Monterey Jack or Colby cheese
Fresh Salsa (page 172)
Guacamole (page 173)
Hot sauce and sour cream, for serving (optional)
1. Lightly oil a large cast-iron skillet and set it over medium-high heat. Cook the tortillas on both sides until warmed through. Transfer to a plate and cover with a kitchen towel to keep warm.
2. Lightly oil the skillet again, crack in the eggs and fry to your liking.
3. Transfer the tortillas to serving plates. Divide the heated beans among the tortillas, sprinkle with the cheese, and top with an egg. Serve with salsa, guacamole, and, if desired, hot sauce and sour cream.
