This has become a Silver Palate classic. It was with us the first day we opened and the only time that it is not in the refrigerator on any given day of the year is when we've sold out. It is light, pretty, refreshing and one of those foods that you enjoy time after time.

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

1/4 cup cold water

1/2 cup boiling water

1/2 cup Hellmann's mayonnaise

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon finely grated onion

dash of Tabasco

1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped dill

2 cups finely flaked poached fresh salmon or canned salmon, skin and bones removed

1 cup heavy cream

1. Soften the gelatin in the cold water in a large mixing bowl. Stir in the boiling water and whisk the mixture slowly until gelatin dissolves. Cool to room temperature.

2. Whisk in the mayonnaise, lemon juice, grated onion, Tabasco, paprika, salt and dill. Stir to blend completely and refrigerate for about 20 minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken slightly.

3. Fold in the finely flaked salmon. In a separate bowl, whip the cream until it is thickened to peaks and fluffy. Fold gently into the salmon mixture.

4. Transfer the mixture to a 6- to 8-cup bowl or decorative mold. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours.

5. Serve on toasts, black bread or crackers. Or serve as a first course, garnished with watercress.

Makes at least 12 portions

CHICKEN MARBELLA

This was the first main-course dish to be offered at The Silver Palate, and the distinctive colors and flavors of the prunes, olives and capers have kept it a favorite for years. It's good hot or at room temperature. When prepared with small drumsticks and wings, it makes a delicious hors d'oeuvre.

The overnight marination is essential to the moistness of the finished product: the chicken keeps and even improves over several days of refrigeration; it travels well and makes excellent picnic fare.

Since Chicken Marbella is such a spectacular party dish, we give quantities to serve 10 to 12, but the recipe can be divided to make smaller amounts if you wish.

4 chickens, 2 1/2 pounds each, quartered

1 head of garlic, peeled and finely pureed

1/4 cup dried oregano

coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 cup olive oil

1 cup pitted prunes

1/2 cup pitted Spanish green olives

1/2 cup capers with a bit of juice

6 bay leaves

1 cup brown sugar

1 cup white wine

1/4 cup Italian parsley or fresh coriander (cilantro), finely chopped

1. In a large bowl combine chicken quarters, garlic, oregano, pepper and coarse salt to taste, vinegar, olive oil, prunes, olives, capers and juice, and bay leaves. Cover and let marinate, refrigerated, overnight.

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

3. Arrange chicken in a single layer in one or two large, shallow baking pans and spoon marinade over it evenly. Sprinkle chicken pieces with brown sugar and pour white wine around them.

4. Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, basting frequently with pan juices. Chicken is done when thigh pieces, pricked with a fork at their thickest, yield clear yellow (rather than pink) juice.

5. With a slotted spoon transfer chicken, prunes, olives and capers to a serving platter. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of pan juices and sprinkle generously with parsley or cilantro. Pass remaining pan juices in a sauceboat.

6. To serve Chicken Marbella cold, cool to room temperature in cooking juices before transferring to a serving platter. If chicken has been covered and refrigerated, allow it to return to room temperature before serving. Spoon some of the reserved juices over chicken.

Makes 16 pieces, 10 or more portions

BEEF AND ROQUEFORT SALAD WITH WALNUTS

This hearty salad is especially welcome in winter. It goes perfectly with a ham, grilled sausages or the like, and the color combination is striking on a buffet table.

As a variation you may omit the Roquefort and sprinkle the salad generously with chopped fresh dill.

8 to 10 medium-size beets

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons walnut oil

1/2 cup shelled walnut halves

1/4 pound imported Roquefort cheese

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Wash beets well, and trim stems and roots without piercing the skin. Drop the beets into a large kettle of boiling salted water and cook until tender, 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the beets. Drain, cool, and peel beets, and cut into julienne.

2. In a mixing bowl toss the beets gently with the vinegar and walnut oil. Taste and add more of either if you like; there should be just enough to coat the beets. Cover and chill until serving time.

3. To serve, toss the walnuts with the chilled beets and arrange in a shallow serving bowl. Allow to return to room temperature. Crumble the Roquefort evenly over the top and grind on black pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

6 to 8 portions

Excerpted from The Silver Palate Cookbook. Copyright c 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982 Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins

Reprinted with permission by Workman Publishing