|Item Weight||8.8 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||2.62 x 2.62 x 4.37 inches|
|Item model number||1050|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Number of Items||1|
|Manufacturer Part Number||1050|
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Slime 1050 Rubber Cement - 8 oz.
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- Partner with a Slime plug or patch kit for a complete repair
- Built-in brush applicator
- For all rubber repairs
- Plastic hang tab for easy storage
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From the manufacturer
The Go-To Rubber Cement for Tire Repairs
Slime is the brand known for flat tire prevention and repair. So it makes sense that we offer some of the best tire repair patch and plug tools on the market.
There is nothing fancy about our Rubber Cement. It is practical, easy to use and most of all, it works! Reach for Slime’s Rubber Cement for all your rubber repairs.
Buff area around puncture lightly, removing loose particles and making sure entire area within 1/2" of puncture has roughened appearance.
Brush on a moderate amount of rubber cement onto roughened surface and spread evenly. Work into material and scrape off excess.
Remove backing from patch without touching exposed surface.
Apply repair material directly over puncture and press firmly, especially around the edges.
Slime has everything you need
From complete patch kits to scuffers, buffers, rubber cement, markers and more, Slime offers everything you need for a complete repair. Patch your tires with the trusted brand known for flat tire prevention and repair.
Slime's Rubber Cement comes in an easy to use canister with a brush that is conveniently attached to the lid. Use with Slime patches and plugs for a complete repair. Be prepared for the inevitable puncture and patch your tubes with the trust of the brand known for flat tire prevention and repair.
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Steps for patching a bicycle inner tube (follow this very carefully and the patch will last for the remaining life of the tube):
1. locate the hole in the tube
2. mark the hole with a pen
3. sandpaper the area around the hole to remove the slick rubber skin on the inner tube
4. if you completely sanded off your mark from step 2, mark it again
5. apply an even layer of rubber cement over and around the hole, somewhat larger than the size of your patch
6. wait 5 minutes for the cement to mostly dry
7. remove the protective skin from under your patch
8. stick the patch to your cement spot (you did cement a larger area than necessary so the patch edges are completely in the glue area, right?)
9. press the patch down hard, all around the patch including the edges (finger pressure is OK, but a rolling tool is better)
10. I usually let the patch dry for a couple of hours, but if you need to ride right away, putting it back in the tire and pumping it up will usually work
11. if you haven't used the tube yet, pump it up after it dries for a couple of hours and let it hang somewhere, then check it the next day to make the tube is still full of air, meaning your patch is OK
12. 95% of the time this procedure will work and the patch will last for the remaining life of the tube
13. in the other 5% of the time, you screwed up (maybe not applying enough cement or not centering the patch over the hole) or maybe there was another hole in the tube somewhere. If I can find a 2nd hole, I will patch that, too. Otherwise, I just throw these tubes away instead of trying to figure out what went wrong.
Although this jar is way more than I needed, I thought I'd give it a try to see if it would not dry out as predictably as a tube. It has now been almost a year since I opened it and I see no signs of it drying out, so the jar packaging seems to seal a lot better than the tubes. Hint: screw the cap on tight and store the jar inverted so air cannot enter. I have found that the best way to store paint, solvents, glue or anything else that can dry out is to invert the container for long term storage to keep the opening sealed from air. Invert inside something which can keep the jar stable -- I have this rubber cement jar stored upside down inside a roll of duct tape. A number of reviewers have said they had great difficulty removing the cap -- if the cap is stuck, a pair of classic slip-joint pliers does the trick easily.
I used to purchase small single-use tubes of rubber cement due to the chance of the rubber cement curing in the can due to exposure once the can is first opened but it wasn't cost-wise. Now I buy it by the can and use a strip of Teflon tape to cover the threads on the can, providing a strong seal between the lid and can preventing premature solidifying.
Do not buy a tire repair kit without the rubber cement. I don't care what they say, the plug, patch, and plug patch combination all require rubber cement.
This product will also work for gluing leather together. Rubber cement. Contact cement. Leather glue. All the same. You need to glue the seems together before you stitch and rivet.