Smooth-On XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit
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- Epoxy Coating for 3D Printed Objects
- Smooths 3D Printed Objects
- Compatible with SLA and SLS prints.
- It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media. It also can be used to coat EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper.
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High Performance 3D Print Coating
Protective coating for smoothing and finishing 3D printed parts that does not melt plastic. XTC‑3D fills in 3D print striations and creates a smooth, high gloss finish. The need to post finish is almost eliminated. XTC‑3D can be applied to both SLA and SLS prints. It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media such as EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper.
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* It has a 20min work time, after which it's very sticky. It sets hard in about 2-3 hrs.
* It's thinner than most epoxy -- more like warm honey -- which lets it flow and smooth out over the surface. It can be thinned with solvent or alcohol if necessary, but it has a brushable, smoothing consistency out of the bottle.
* It is very clear and has a very high gloss. It helps transparent prints improve their clarity. The high shine can highlight print defects and strata lines if you apply a single thin coat.
* Comes with good instructions and material safety info.
* They recommend thin coats, and a little goes a long way. It may take 2-4 coats to eliminate the strata lines, and it can fill in detail areas.
* They claim it improves strength, which I can't verify (seems like it couldn't hurt).
* Does not appear to react chemically with ABS or PLA or pigments in the filaments.
* Does not smell bad (for an epoxy)
* Claims to it can be tinted, painted and sanded. Two part epoxy usually does not yellow as it ages.
* Prints tend to get a bit darker when coated (because the tiny surface texture details are covered and filled in with a reflective coating)
It's priced comparable to other two part epoxies. However, I'm not sure the results are that much better than a thick clear coat you can get from a (cheaper and more convenient) spray can.
My issue is minor but i consider it a deal breaker.
i coated 2 parts. both different batches 2:1 as directions said. both parts cured for 2 days even though it says 4 hours which is true. 4 hours and its done. anyway after 2 days i picked both up and examined and both look great but if you touch the coating it leaves finger print residue that does not come off almost like its not cured but it is. Like it dulls the finish. its rock hard so i know its cured. so now i have 2 coated parts with fingerprints that wont wipe off.
If you need to coat something to smooth it out and paint over then i recommend. its easy to sand and easy to apply. IF you are looking for a finish coat like a shiny clear coat which is what i was after then no i dont recommend. unless you dont plan on touching it then sure.
I was going after a stained wood look and wanted a clear protective coating which was exactly what it looked like until it was handled.
One thing to note that once you use the medicine cup and the chip brush, say goodbye. I stocked up on dixie cups and popsicle sticks since I will be using this very often. I print my models at 50 microns, but that doesn't stop me from coating my models with this, before sealing it with primer. Also the cure time is shortened if you put it in the sun on a 90 degree day (I let it cure for 5 hours). And to get the model ready, I used 220 grit sandpaper to get the surface buffed up for a final pass of paint. I must say, all of my research paid off. I can't wait to use this on bigger models.
I used it on two ABS parts.
Based on my experience I recommend sanding flat ABS surfaces down before applying the coating, and then very selectively spreading this coating over/into any gaps or splits in the surface. Small gaps are best filled in with a small, flat applicator like an old credit card rather than the included foam brush.
For ABS surfaces that are difficult to sand (small or has complex curves) you can reduce your workload and still get a great finish by applying the coating first then doing some rough sanding afterward.
I haven't tried this with PLA yet, but based on how much of a pain PLA level ridges are to sand down I would probably use the "coat then sand" method for that material.
Final note: A little tiny bit of the coating goes a very long way. If your part is only a couple inches on all sides 1 Tsp of the mixture is more than enough. When applying the coating dab on a little glob, spread it around, then add more as needed. It will still harden correctly if you use too much but you'll lose surface detail.
Final final note: The included documentation states the coating will harden to a working state in something like 3.5 hours. I applied the coating below the recommended storage temp and after 12 hours it could be handled but was still tacky. It took about a day to completely harden.
Top international reviews
Mettre des gants et lunettes de protection
Le produit chauffe et est sec au bout de 30 minutes
Parece de muy buena calidad i consigue buenos resultados
En principio derrite el PLA consiguiendo una tectuxa muy fina y gran acabado