Customer Reviews: Sno Seal - 7 oz
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Customer Reviews

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on September 26, 2011

NOTHING WORKS BETTER.....Guarantees dry feet.

The best way to apply SNO-SEAL is to set your boots out in the July sun and heat them up. One entire 7 oz can will soak into a pair of combat style boots. Two cans will soak into a pair of Whites or Wesco logging boots. If it is December, you have yo set them by the wood stove and warm them. Then smear on the SNO-SEAL and use a hair dryer to melt it into the leather.
We go out of our way to treat the boots in the summer heat, then just add a little surface coating in the winter.

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on April 24, 2012
I've now used this on multiple pairs of shoes - a few Mephisto's and some Dr. Marten's - and the results are wonderful. However, as others have noted, it will darken the color of brown leather, so be careful.

Here's how I use it:

- Prop up the pair of shoes in front of a small space heater
- Turn the space heater on high, and wait about 15 mins to heat up the shoes
- Wearing a disposable latex glove, scoop out a bit of the wax
- Rub the wax onto the warm shoes, it should melt on contact.
- Repeat for the other shoe, and throw the glove away.
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on February 8, 2012
Been using Sno Seal for 40 yrs? Lived in Lake Tahoe, CA for 20. Put on mountain boots and hiked for 5 days middle of winter through ice crusted snow many times. That ice crust is like sandpaper. My black boots became white around the bottom edges because the ice scraped off all the surface finish on $300 crampon ready mountain boots. That is normal.

This Sno Seal kept the boots dry inside and the leather never got wet or soft from water penitration. A new pair with slightly fuzzy surface finish will fill in and become smooth with the Sno Seal after a thorough coating.

How to apply: On a sunny day put boots in window under direct sun until the leather gets quite warm to the touch. Smear the thick waxy goop generously. It should soak in a least a little but put back in sun and let the heat make the leather absorb lots more. It should be smooth and absorbed with no extra on surface. You can polish with brush for semi-shine when cool. If done thoroughly one good coating might last all season or at least half depending on how much crusty snow you hike through. Plain water will bead off permanently. If you are CAREFUL you can warm oven and turn off. Place boots inside for three to five minutes NO LONGER then the Sno Seal will soak in deeper and faster. It is slow and messy and permanent.

If your dog gets snow balls sticking to it's fir rub Sno Seal in your hands to soften and rub into dog's fir. No more snow balls sticking to fir. It never softens the leather. Don't tell anyone but I'd pay $35+ for a jar. That jar will last many years. For boots nothing is better. For street shoes this is too thick and does not leave a smooth shiny finish. Rub a little on your shoe strings too. For mountain boots and hiking boots nothing comes close, cross my heart, LOL
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on February 15, 2014
Back when I was young and dumb, I took a job working for the cable company, outside work, in Fraser, Colorado. Some of you might remember the Zerex anit-freeze ads from the 1970s featuring the town. Until a few years ago it was called the "Icebox of the Nation" until the town sold the rights to that name to International Falls MN.

Anyway, a requirement for my job was to have a very specific type of boot that was made for climbing poles. These were not insulated in any way. My boss made me go out and buy Sno Seal. Boy, I'm glad he did. Sno Seal and Smartwool socks were all I needed for my feet to stay warm and dry all winter, even down to -20F. Of course during the day it might get up to 35-40, creating a lot of slop and puddles to slosh through. As long as I maintained the sno seal protection I never got wet feet, and it NEVER caused any problems with dirty carpets or floors in customer homes. Those booties we wear sometimes leak and tear and when they do, silicon based waterproofing often times rubbed off on carpets even when dry.

It is hard and time consuming to apply, but the time spent is absolutely worth it. It did darken my boots, but it also removed scuffs and scratches, and I think they actually looked a little better after application.
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on April 12, 2012
I purchased a pair of LL Bean boots at the beginning of winter and was shopping for a water-proofing agent to ensure they lived up to their reputation. After searching the 'net the general consensus from die-hard hikers was Sno-Seal. It is easy to apply (pre-heated the boots at low temp in the oven) and, best of all, very effective in keeping the interior of the boot dry. One container goes a long way and should last a lifetime of annual applications.

Two thumbs up!
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on October 8, 2011
I used this on my 2500 dollar Louis Vuitton (talk about a leap of faith) and it's excellent, the leather was a tiny bit dried out afterwards but a bit of apple leather care did the trick for that.
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on November 13, 2012
I recently purchased some Danner boots on Amazon ( One walk in the grass told me what needed to happen: time to "waterproof" my boots.

Sno-Seal is the go-to product for this type thing and after using it I can tell why... it just works well. Beeswax "waterproofing" makes boots water resistant but still breathable and flexible. This 7-oz can is plenty for the lifetime of a boot (I probably will seal these twice during the wet season).

Sno-Seal will not make a boot water impenetrable, but you don't want that with leather. Beeswax keeps water out really well, but still allows the leather to breathe. As long as you aren't standing in a puddle for too long you're gonna stay dry.

As other reviewers note, this will make your boots a shade darker. Spot test it if you are worried.

For a How-To on waterproofing your boots with Sno-Seal, head to their website: [...]
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on December 24, 2011
If appearance is important to you with your tan or lighter colored leather shoes do not use this product, or at the very least use when the shoes are brand new. I recently purchased a can from the Ace Hardware to treat a favorite pair of boat shoes and the results were... dissappointing, not that I wasn't warned. The problem is that with lighter colored shoes any blemishes are amplified by the application of this product. Afterwards you're left with a rather dingy looking shoe. Maybe the problem was that I was applying it to older shoes. Oh well, lesson learned. However, the product diffinitely works as advertised. Water just rolls off the shoe as if it were made of rubber.

Lighter Colored Leathers:
1. Use a different product by Atsko, one that doesn't change the color. You may not be able to "water proof" the shoes with another product but you also won't be disappointed with the color change.
2. If you are going to use this product on tan or light colored leathers, use it when the shoes are brand new (like right out of the box) and then don't expect to use it again on the shoes given the results described above.

Dark brown or black leathers:
1. Have at it! You'll water proof your shoes for sure!
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on February 25, 2012
I was introduced to sno-seal during my freshman year in college in Vermont. We used to sno-seal our doc martens so when we got them completely covered with snow, our feed didn't get wet, and the leather lasted (looked new) longer. I'm so glad I could find this on amazon. It works just as well as it did 15 years ago!
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on December 19, 2013
My dad is a mechanic and religiously uses this product on his work boots. I bought a can for my husband's new leather boots, and it is amazing for snowy, wet, Ohio weather. The sprays are easy, but never quite seem to work.

Here are some simple steps for Sno-Seal application:

1. Start by heating your oven to ~120F.
2. Once it reaches temperature, turn the oven off.
3. Wait about 5-10 minutes for the heating elements to cool a little, and then put your boots (no laces) into the oven.
4. Leave the boots in the oven for about 10 minutes.
5. After 10 minute incubation, remove the boots from the oven.
6. Using an old t-shirt or under shirt, apply Sno-Seal to the leather surface of the boots. (I applied quite liberally to 2 pairs of boots, and still have about 95% of the can left).
7. Let your boots sit at room temperature, or put them back in the extinguished oven for ~10 minutes to allow the wax to soak into the leather.
8. Using a clean, dry part of the under shirt, wipe off any excess wax.
9. Let the boots sit overnight before wearing.
10. For best results, repeat this process on clean, dry boots at least once a year.
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