- File Size: 25878 KB
- Print Length: 352 pages
- Publisher: Clarkson Potter (September 20, 2011)
- Publication Date: September 20, 2011
- Sold by: Random House LLC
- Language: English
- ASIN: B005LALG16
- Text-to-Speech: Enabled
- Word Wise: Enabled
- Lending: Not Enabled
- Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #850,721 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
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The Splendid Table's How to Eat Weekends: New Recipes, Stories, and Opinions from Public Radio's Award-Winning Food Show: A Cookbook Kindle Edition
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About the Author
SALLY SWIFT is the managing producer and cocreator of The Splendid Table radio program and coauthor of The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper. She is an avid gardener, bicyclist, and public radio aficionado. After nearly two decades of working with Lynne, her only complaint is that they rarely have time for a real lunch.
THE SPLENDID TABLE is produced by American Public Media and is heard nationwide on more than 300 public radio stations. The program has received multiple broadcast awards over the years, including two James Beard Awards for Best National Radio Show on Food, the Gracie Allen Award for Best Syndicated Talk Show, and four Clarion Awards from the Association for Women in Communication for Best National Radio Talk Show. For more information, visit SplendidTable.org. --This text refers to an alternate kindle_edition edition.
Featured Recipe: Slow-Roasted Pork with Glazed Orange Slices
Serves: 8 to 12
30 minutes prep time; 3 days seasoning time; 2 1/2 hours oven time; 10 to 15 minutes rest time
So forgiving, you can calibrate this roast around your needs instead of the usual other way around. It will hold happily in a low oven (180ºF. or so) for 1 hour.
6- to 7-pound boneless pork shoulder or Boston butt, well marbled
1 generous teaspoon whole cloves, or 1 level teaspoon ground
1 generous teaspoon whole allspice, or 1 level teaspoon ground
1 generous teaspoon coriander seed, or 1 level teaspoon ground
1 generous teaspoon black peppercorns, or 1 level teaspoon ground black pepper
2½-inch cinnamon stick, broken, or 2 teaspoons ground
1 tablespoon kosher salt
6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¹⁄³ cup good-tasting extra-virgin olive oil
1¹⁄³ cups orange juice
1½ cups dry red wine
Roasting and Finishing
2 tightly packed tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves
½ medium onion, chopped
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 thin-skinned orange, such as Valencia, Temple, or Hamlin, unpeeled, sliced into thin rounds
1. Marinate the meat: Three days before cooking, make deep wide cuts into the meat. Then grind the whole cloves, allspice, coriander, peppercorns, and cinnamon stick in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle, or blend the ground spices. In a medium bowl, mix the spices with the salt, garlic, oil, ²⁄³ cup of the orange juice, and ½ cup of the wine. Stuff the mixture into the slits and the meat’s crevices and rub into the pork on all sides. Tuck the roast into a shallow dish, cover, and refrigerate for 3 days, turning three or four times.
2. Roast the meat: Take the meat out of the refrigerator and preheat the oven to 400ºF. Purée the rosemary, onion, salt, and oil, and stuff the mixture into the roast’s crevices.
3. Roll up the roast into a loose cylinder. Put it in a large shallow pan, fat side up (we like a half-sheet pan), scrape any remaining marinade over it, and scatter the orange slices around the pan. Roast for 30 minutes, then pour in the remaining 1 cup wine.
4. Turn the heat down to 325ºF., pour in the remaining ²⁄³ cup orange juice, and roast for another 90 minutes, basting the pan juices and the orange slices over the meat several times. If the pan juices threaten to burn, blend in a little water. You want them to end up being syrupy, but not burned.
5. Test the internal temperature of the meat with an instant-read thermometer. Once it reaches 145ºF. to 150ºF., reduce the heat to 200ºF. for another 30 minutes, or until the meat’s internal temperature is 155ºF. Remove the pork from the oven and let it rest in a warm place for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing.
6. The pan juices should be syrupy. If needed, set the pan over two burners, skim off a little excess fat, and cook down the juices, stirring with a wooden spatula.
7. To serve, thinly slice the pork across the grain, moistening the slices with the pan sauce and bits of roasted orange. Don’t be put off if the meat is a pinkish beige; it is safe and so succulent. Serve the pork hot.
Cook to Cook: Why recipes still call for pork loin as a celebration roast we can’t imagine. Over-priced and underperforming, the typical commercial loin comes off dry and tasteless. Much cheaper shoulder cuts, like the pork in this recipe, have the essential marbling for succulent eating, and no roast is as easy on a cook. Short of blasting (and toughening) them in too hot an oven (keep the temperature at 350°F. or lower), you can’t ruin a shoulder roast.
Start the roast 3 days ahead with the seasonings.
Wine: Try a Chenin Blanc from South Africa with this dish. They tend to be more reliably dry than those from the Loire and have a bit more fruit, yet are not overtly sweet.
Work Night Encore
Pan-Browned Pork with Mom’s Apple Sauerkraut: Slice the leftover pork roast into sticks about 3 inches long by 1 inch thick. Coat a big skillet with a thin film of olive oil, get it hot, and quickly brown the pork. Take the meat out of the pan and set aside.
Wipe out the pan, coat it with a thin film of olive oil, and heat it over medium-high heat. Brown a chopped large onion and a sprig of rosemary in it along with a cut-up large apple. Blend in 2 minced garlic cloves, several cups rinsed and drained sauerkraut, and a generous splash of white wine. Stir up the brown glaze in the pan as you cook down the wine. Blend in any pan juices left from the pork and the pork pieces. Have the dish hot and serve it with boiled potatoes or toasted, chewy dark bread.--This text refers to an alternate kindle_edition edition.
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The recipes are interspersed with essays and commentary about the authors’ creative process, histories of some of the dishes, specifics about various ethnic cuisines and ingredients. I enjoyed this aspect a lot — I’m always interested in how and why cooks develop their recipes and menus. There’s a lot of good info here. But the bulk of the book focuses on recipes.
The first thing you need to know about the recipes in this cookbook is that they are NOT quick-fix easy dishes for those times when you have to get dinner on the table fast. No, these are recipes meant to be pampered, cared for, and nurtured over some hours — lots of hours in some cases. From the introduction:
“What is eating weekends? We think of it as the luxury and the pleasure of taking the time to make things from scratch because they taste better than anything found on a supermarket shelf. It’s about spending a lazy afternoon in a new neighborhood where maybe we don’t speak the language, but can find new markets and restaurants. It’s about the excitement of weaving ourselves into other cultures, and bringing them to our tables with our own hands.”
So if you’re looking for quick and easy dishes, you’ll likely be disappointed in this book.
However, if you’re looking for recipes that require some time and care and you really really love to cook, this might work for you.
I’m somewhere in the middle. I like to cook, but I’m single and don’t usually want to take that much time and effort on a meal just for myself. I did make several of the recipes just to test them out. Here are the results:
1. Moroccan Harira Red Lentil Soup
One of the less-complicated recipes, this one uses fairly basic supermarket ingredients and readily available spices: onion, carrot, parsley, cilantro, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, red lentils, paprika, canned tomatoes, and vegetable broth.
I make this recipe as written — no substitutions — and it had good flavor and was easy to prepare. There are a number of “accompaniments” that are listed for serving — dried fruits, phyllo pastries, lemon wedges — that I chose to forego since I was cooking just for myself. But their addition might add a degree of festivity to what is a fairly basic (but tasty) soup. I froze the leftover for later, and it does freeze nicely (defrosted and heated up one serving so far, and it was fine — no loss of flavor or texture). I’ll make this again, and I may use it as a base for adding chicken or lamb to make a more nutritionally robust soup.
2. Charred Lamb with Smoked Romesco
Another dish that’s not quite so complicated, but still packs a flavor punch. I followed the recipe as written. The lamb preparation is fairly simple: leg of lamb cut into chunks and tossed with oil, salt, pepper and a little dark brown sugar, then grilled or roasted (I chose the oven roasting method). The sauce is one I think I’ll use again for grilled chicken: oil, bread, almonds, garlic, red pepper, smoked Spanish paprika, tomatoes, sweet red pepper (roasted), and sherry vinegar, all put through a blender to make a smooth sauce.
Yes, some of these ingredients might a bit tricky to find — we have one local supermarket that seems to specialize in more international ingredients (especially spices), so I was able to get what I needed at one store. The preparation isn’t tricky at all, and the results are quite good. I had leftovers and they were still good the next day (reheated the lamb; the sauce is served at room temperature).
3. Farmer’s Market Pasta
My CSA (consumer supported agriculture) delivery included a couple of zucchini and a fresh Italian chile pepper, so doing this recipe seemed like a no-brainer.
Not tricky at all — I did cut it in half since that’s all the zucchini I had, but it still turned out just fine. I used fettuccine as the pasta, and I had fresh basil on hand (probably the last of my home-grown basil crop - I think it’s about finished for the season). The sauce is garlic, onion, lemon juice, the chile, and a little salt (and optional anchovy fillets — not a fan of anchovies). You make the sauce, cook the pasta and add the zucchini to the pot of pasta when there are 4 minutes left for the pasta to cook. You mix some of the pasta water along with fresh herbs and oil into the sauce, then toss everything together.
This was good — really good — and could be made with just about any vegetable besides zucchini (butternut squash, broccoli, parsnips, carrots, asparagus, etc.). Will make this one again.
So there it is. All the recipes that I tried produced good results with not *too* much effort. But here’s the thing: MOST of the other recipes take a lot of time and energy to produce, with long complex ingredient lists, multiple steps, and hours — even days — of prep and cooking time. And there are very few pictures, so if you're a cook that depends on photos to tell you how a dish should look or how it should be plated, you'll be disappointed. Only you can say whether the ends justify the means. I’ll probably use a few of the more complex recipes for very VERY special occasions for family/friends. Otherwise, this is a book that will likely remain in my “overflow” bookcase of books I seldom reference.
Can’t really justify more than 3 stars for this one, I’m afraid. It’s OK — I don’t dislike it, but I won’t be using it enough to warrant a 4-star “I like it” rating.