La Sportiva Unisex Genius Climbing Shoe
|Price:||$175.50 - $195.00|
- 80% Suede Leather / 20% Micro fiber
- No-Edge Technology delivers unparalleled edging performance on the rock
- P3 patented technology delivers mind-bending power
- Lace-up comfort makes this shoe fit every type of foot
- AWARDS: Climbing Magazine - Editors' Choice 2015
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La Sportiva Genius Rock Climbing Shoes- The La Sportiva Genius Rock Climbing Shoes has innovative design features like the hyper-responsive No-Edge technology, an aggressive P3 rand, and a secure asymmetrical enclosure system, the Genius showcases the most advanced performance-built design on the market.
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-Comfortable, perfect fit
-Great “no-edge” technology – great sensitivity
-Heel is stiff – no sensitivity whatsoever unlike Scarpa’s
La Sportiva Genius: 38.5
La Sportiva Solutions (female): 38.5
Scarpa Instinct S: 39.5
Scarpa Instinct VS: 40
In depth review:
I’ve been climbing for a year and a half and this is my 8th pair of climbing shoes. The first four have been sold because I got all the sizing wrong so I am left with the remaining four: Genius, Solutions (female), Instinct S and VS. I have always been a huge believer in Scarpa’s but my recent climbing buddies have slowly converted me to La Sportiva.
If you have the Solutions, get the exact same size and it will fit like a glove. I’m a dude but I use the female version of the Solutions because of heel. Asian’s tend to have narrower heels so the snugger heel was the logical choice. When you first put on the Genius, it will feel very snug. After three hours of climbing, it felt like it was already broken in. Who knows what after a month of climbing would feel like? I have always used slippers or a Velcro system so the lace was a great change. I could perfect the tightness of the shoe, let it be the front or the middle of the foot – I could be precise now.
Climbing on indoor walls felt amazing. The “no-edge” technology takes a while to get used to. You tend to use much more core and toe energy but what you get out of it is much better footwork. I was doing a powerful arête bouldering problem and as of right now, I have mixed reviews about the heel. I guess I’ve had the opportunity to use Scarpa’s. Their heels are just amazing. You can feel what you are heeling and they have an amazing stickiness to it. When I was working on the arête problem, I didn’t feel anything on the wall but it held. I had to visually see where I put my heel before I could get the right position for my body to stay. Maybe I’m just not use to the La Sportiva’s heel yet. I’ve only been using them for a few months and I heard it’s just a whole different method compared to Scarap’s. But they say once you get the heel work solid, it will hold on to anything!
Would I recommend this product? Yes! Maybe not to beginners because this shoe is all about knowing how to use your toes. I’ve always had clumsy footwork so this shoe is going to train my toes and core hard. Get the shoe, you won’t regret spending the additional cash. Have I converted to La Sportiva yet? Unsure… we will see. The Genius has put me a few steps closer though
For sizing I ordered a full size below my street shoe and it fits perfectly. It's pretty consistent with the rest of la sportivas shoe sizes