|Item Weight||3.1 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||6.8 x 4.4 x 4.3 inches|
|Item model number||3252|
|Item Package Quantity||250|
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Squeeeek No More/O'Berry Enterprises 3252 Replacement Screws - 250 pack
|Price:||$22.77 & FREE Shipping on orders over $25. Details|
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Screws are scored one inch from the head and coated with a special wax that allows the screw to safely pass through the carpet. Works with carpet, hardwood floors or vinyl floors
Top Customer Reviews
- if you have an older home with older hardwoods, the holes are nearly invisible among the other surface imperfections. Make sure you pick up a couple colors of wood putty, one darker than your floors and one lighter, so that you can mix them like play-dough and get your color right.
- That's important because the screws do not always snap off - I'd say it works about 80-85% of the time. The little tool they give you does not snap the screws as neatly as they show in the video. And in working it around, you enlarge your holes a bit. Or sometimes the screw doesn't generate enough torque to snap before it just starts chewing through the wood and you're just spinning. Then you back it out and either put it in planning to snap it or just fill the hole you create during the mangling process to break it off.
- I found these to be useless between joists. Probably a personal situation with our house and the old nails, but the only sound reduction came when the flooring was re-secured to the joists.
- In an old house, not all of the joists are 16" apart. Fortunately our basement is unfinished and I was able to see a lot of the time where I was going wrong. Some areas were covered, however, and then it's hide and see. I looked far and wide for a good stud finder that could penetrate 2" of hardwoods and subfloor. Bosch has one that said it could but home depot had stopped carrying it at the store I tried. I found when hunting for a joist that normally the worst of the squeak was directly at the joist. If you can use a finger and create the squeak (vs. jumping on it), you're probably very close.
I'm about 200 screws in at this point and have only had one pre-break below the surface but not at the 1/8" that they specify. I find that they torque up a little better if you're going slow so I have a reasonable speed going until I get close to the guard and then slow appreciably. At that point, I'm drilling no faster than I could by hand which seems to work the best.
Overall, considering that I had no way to approach some of my floors from underneath, that even if I had, the option of nailing a 2"x4" to the joist and then angling up into the sub-floor sounded like a true waste of time, I think these are the greatest invention I could have asked for. Even using the square drill attachment (vs. say a Phillips) was genius as you never strip a screw.
My entire toolkit for this is a set of vise grips, a long paperclip (bend it in half so you don't drop it), tape measure, putty, flashlight, some tape to mark the joist centers and a drill. I'd rate it very easy on the difficulty scale. It is time-consuming, however, and you go through screws like crazy. 6 joists per avg bedroom x 11 feet x 2-3 screws per foot and you're easily over 100 per room even if you're just attacking the squeaky spots (if your rooms are as noisy as ours were).
Sweet bliss coming into the house now - I'm almost afraid to walk on them.
Update - 2 weeks later - couple hundred more screws in place. Still a fan - figured out two things:
1) they will quiet spaces between joists, just put in a grid, spacing them 4" apart, so in 1 sq. ft, you'll use around 16 screws to silence it. compare that to a joist, where you get about 3" of silence on either side when you can snug the floor back down to the joist. ups your total per room substantially. i picked up a 500 pack for the weekend.
2) resist the temptation to rock the screw head back and forth to minimize floor damage - hold the tool like an airplane thrust lever and push forward only. faster and less frustrating.
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Also, the collars that snap the screw are made of plastic and not metal as I believe is advertised. And drill at a higher speed to make sure the screw snaps.
- sometimes the screw encounters some tighter wood or some sort of resistance when driving it in, so the screw breaks apart during before the job is done, leaving one to figure out how to deal with a half driven screw that now sticks very sharply up through the carpet.
- probably the code requires it, but that doesn't mean it is always the case - the wood planks don't always end up on a cross beam, so you can find some corners that squeek because of the lack of support - and this system can't do anything about it
- you have to keep probing for the next-next crossbeam. If you find a crossbeam, then the next one is likely to be 16 inches away; unless it isn't because of doubled up crossbeam and other variations that you can encounter.
I did try to get it working, but I only had limited success. Some squeeks are gone, but now those that are left are truly maddening, as I know I can't fix them even though I tried. I'm looking forward to the moment when under the disguise of a carpet change I get to redo the flooring in the affected area and glue every damn bit of wood together to keep them from squeaking.
For me, it would be cost prohibitive to pull the carpeting up to fix the squeaks. There is way too much carpeting and the squeaks are spotty around the house. This tool worked well all the way around.
I placed the screws about 4" apart. I also had a helper stand by the screw to press the flooring against the joist. My flooring is plywood glued/nailed to the joists and carpeted. I did not use it on any other type of flooring. For my situation it worked extremely well.