Starrett Intenss Pro-Die Band Saw Blade, Bimetal, Intenss Tooth, Wavy Set, Neutral Rake
|Price:||$9.66 - $60.19|
|Cut Type||Wavy Set|
|Finish Type||Uncoated (Bright)|
|Manufacturer Series Number||BSTAR14|
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The Starrett Intenss Pro-Die bimetal band saw blade has an Intenss tooth design, wavy set, and a neutral rake for cutting low alloy steel; aluminum; stainless steel; carbon steel; tool, die, and mold steel; steel up to C45 Rockwell hardness; nickel-based alloys; and nonferrous metal. The blade can make cuts in solid, structural, and tubular shapes. The Intenss tooth has a neutral rake angle for general-purpose cutting. The teeth are made of triple-tempered M-42 high-speed cobalt steel with an alloy steel backing strip that resists fatigue. It also has a variable tooth pitch that reduces noise levels and vibration. The blade has a wavy set, which has groups of teeth set to each side of the blade with varying amounts of set in a controlled pattern, allowing for thinner cuts by helping prevent stripping.
Band saw blades are long, continuous bands of metal that loop around the wheels of band saws and can make straight or curved cuts in metal, wood, stone, plastic, and other materials. When purchasing band saw blades, consider the application, as this will affect the choice of tooth rake, tooth set, pitch, and size of the blade. Band saw blades are available with a positive rake angle or a neutral (also called zero or straight) rake angle, and with a raker, wavy, or alternate tooth set. Pitch (the number of teeth per inch or per 25.4 mm) affects the type of finish and may be constant or variable. Band saw blades are available in different lengths and width to fit the requirements of specific band saws.
The L.S. Starrett Company manufactures precision measuring tools, metrology and testing equipment, and saw blade products. The company was founded in 1880 and is headquartered in Athol, MA.
Top Customer Reviews
I admit it, I had some dismal results with my first blade. But I was new to band saws. To cut to the chase... I didn't realize you needed to "break in the blade" i.e. Go easy and cut at a slower speed for at least some amount of time prior to going full bore. I know what the failure was of my 1st blade; I cut some .035 SS 1.5" tubing and ran the blade speed a bit too fast.. I didn't do too much cutting before it when belly up... I've since switched to a abrasive chop saw for the SS.
Ironically, I didn't realize I wore the blade out on SS tube with the speed set so high.. But I found I could still easily cut 1/8 cold rolled with this same dismal blase.. what was odd is that it would take a few seconds before it would cut? Well surprise... I WAS FRICTION CUTTING and didn't even know it... Only a very tiny red hot spot was at the cut line.. It did cut like butter like I've read about. No notable noise or sound however. And this was a blade that still had teeth. And I wasn't running it fast either. Not as fast as it can go. More like mid speed (it's a gear box and belt metal saw so it has lots of speed choices). Anyways.. Friction cutting works! I'm keeping that blade around if I get into a pinch. And here I thought is was a old wife's tail!
My most recent Starrett blade is ROCKING! Slowed the machine down to around 500fpm and did not over feed. I've just finished about 6ft of 1/8 cold rolled and the blade (rubbing my finger over it), still feels as sharp as new! I do dab some cutting oil on the blade and work (it's a dry saw)... But this blade seems like it's in for the long haul. And I have 3 extra blades in reserve (this is when I was worried about longevity).
I'm sure if the other reviewers are saying that they cut a small amount and the blade was gone, to look into the correct speed for the material, read up on "break in".. and what the feed speed would be. And to make sure you get enough teeth on the material (=>3 teeth). And the direction you need to confront the blade with when cutting angle iron, tubes and box. That SS tubing I cut was deadly... yet the blade is advertised for SS. But I think my downfall was the ultra thin ga. tubing. That stainless is HARD. A cat couldn't scratch it! :o)
BTW.. these blades are now about 50% of what the 1st one cost me? What's up with that.. Just gives one the feeling that they were double charging or about to be discontinued? :oO
10/29/14 Update: The blade died. However we can put this one down to operator error, not the blade. I cut quite a bit out of mild steel up to 5/16" thick and had no problems. While cutting out some pieces for a welding project I inadvertently grabbed a hunk of 304 stainless and tried to cut it. When it wouldn't cut right away I forced it and took those teeth right off. This blade is still the best of the three leading brand blades I have gone through in the past couple of months so as soon a project comes up again that I need to cut metal, I will be buying another Starrett blade.
I am going back to Olson bimetal. At least if feels like it's my fault when one of those eventually loses a tooth.
If you are sawing in a production setting, your saw is in good repair and adjusted correctly, and want the longest life blade available, then you should use Bimetal bandsaw blades. Bimetal blades cost more than carbon blades, but are generally more economical to operate in the long run, because they can outlast carbon blades by up to 10 times if used properly. Also, they are capable of cutting harder materials, such as stainless steel.
Hope this helps anyone/everyone out in making a good choise.
Anyways, it has been cutting strong for a good amount of time. I detention it every use, and so far i have cut many linear feet of steel and aluminum. I have even had to cut very thin sheet steel, which usually strips teeth, but none missing so far.
Also cut some hardwood and rubber, both of which add heat quickly to a blade.....still running like new. Will definitely buy again once it comes time for replacement.