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State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook Hardcover – October 24, 2017
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"Neverworld Wake" by Marisha Pessl
Read the absorbing new psychological suspense thriller from acclaimed New York Times bestselling author Marisha Pessl. Learn more
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From the Publisher
Giardiniera makes a great partner for tender meat, whether it’s the sloppy, wondrous slices piled on Chicago’s iconic Italian beef sandwiches or the braised tongue we serve with pancakes. The crunchy pickle—briefly cooked in vinegar, then immersed in hot oil—is a great way to preserve a variety of vegetables in the same jar. The State Bird version has nearly a dozen vegetables, from beets and turnips to carrots and cauliflower, but feel free to use whatever you have on hand. This recipe makes plenty, and you’ll be happy to have leftovers.
Recipe - Makes about 8 cups
Pour the rice bran oil into a medium pot, set over medium-high heat, and bring to 300°F. Lower the heat to maintain the temperature.
Meanwhile, in a pot large enough to contain at least four times the volume of the raw vegetables (to ensure that the hot oil won’t bubble over later), combine the vegetables, shallots, vinegar, salt, garlic, coriander seeds, rosemary, and peppercorns. Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat, stirring once or twice to help the salt dissolve, then immediately drain the vegetables, reserving the vinegar mixture for future giardiniera making. (Strained, it can be used several times.) Return the vegetables to the large pot.
Carefully pour the hot oil over the vegetables. Let cool to room temperature, divide among several containers, and refrigerate at least overnight or up to 1 month. Let the giardiniera come to room temperature before eating.
- 6 cups rice bran oil
- 1¾ pounds assorted firm, raw vegetables (such as cauliflower, carrots, beets, and turnips), trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces
- 3 large shallots, cut into ½-inch rings
- 6 cups apple cider vinegar
- ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp kosher salt
- 3 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
- 1 Tbsp coriander seeds
- 1 Tbsp rosemary leaves
- 2 tsp black peppercorns
“When people talk about iconic California restaurants they talk about places like Chez Panisse and Zuni Café. I’ll confidently add State Bird Provisions to that list. Each offers an experience that defines a special time and place in American dining. And all are guided not just by incredibly talented chefs but by amazing human beings. The book in your hands is a taste of what makes Stuart and Nicole's one-of-a-kind gem so special—from the inventive yet approachable recipes to the heartfelt writing. State Bird is more than a restaurant, it’s a way of looking at life. And this book is its manual.”
—Andrew Knowlton, deputy editor of Bon Appétit
“Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski exude soulfulness and authenticity in their cooking; this book is a true expression of the restaurant they created, which has changed the landscape of American dining.”
—Kyle Connaughton, chef/owner of SingleThread Farms and author of Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking
“With State Bird Provisions, Stuart and Nicole have given the city of San Francisco a gift of culinary joy and delight. Not since childhood have we experienced so much fun dining out, and rarely are we lucky enough to find such an authentic and delicious expression of time and place. Now with State Bird Provisions they have given us yet another gift; a guide to bringing some of that magic into our homes. Thank you!”
—Kevin Farley and Alex Hozven, owners of Cultured Pickle Shop
“I love Stuart and Nicole’s food, and State Bird Provisions has become one of my favorite restaurants in the world. So, no surprise that this is my new favorite cookbook. The bold techniques, outstanding ingredients, and fantastic flavors—they’re all here. What an absolute pleasure this book is.”
—Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, writer, broadcaster, activist, and creator of River Cottage
"Beautifully written and photographed, this collection will inspire generations of diners and chefs to come."
—Publishers Weekly, Starred Review
"[State Bird Provisions] is a pretty, fun-to-read cookbook, starting with the chatty backstory to the restaurant, which famously serves its food in dim sum carts."
—Los Angeles Times
"The book itself does justice to the origin tale fans know well, and lends insight to the couple’s critical thinking approach to freshness, to waste, and to creativity. ... The photographs, just like the recipes, are gorgeous."
About the Author
STUART BRIOZA and NICOLE KRASINSKI are the chef/owners of State Bird Provisions and The Progress in San Francisco. JJ GOODE is a Brooklyn-based food writer and the coauthor of the books A Girl and Her Pig with April Bloomfield, Morimoto with Masaharu Morimoto, Truly Mexican with Roberto Santibanez, and Pok Pok with Andy Ricker.
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Many cooks who have a first-class grocery store and a good butcher, fishmonger, and access to a Farmers' Market may be able to find most of the ingredients, such as fresh Porcini mushrooms, uni, burrata, beef tongue, live Dungeness crab, shiso leaves, Crescenza (Stracchino) cheese, Fuyu persimmons, duck livers, legs, and fat, Jimmy Nardello peppers, fresh oysters and clams, sushi-grade salmon for tartare, fish tails, collars, and bellies, beef marrow, and quail eggs. However, anchovies fresh from the sea will be inaccessible to all except for those lucky Bay Area cooks who can follow Chef Brioza's precise instructions and find them on Pier 47. For ingredients accessible in grocery stores or via Amazon, he does frequently gives us his favorite brand names for such ingredients as fish and soy sauce, lemon olive oil, and even raisins.
Why is this book for the serious cook? Many of the recipes require multiple sub-ingredients--as used in their restaurant kitchen--and require hours and, in some cases ("Spiced Guinea Hen Dumplings") days to make.
The book contains many sub-chapters, each with an interesting introduction. For example, in "Pancakes," Chef Brioza waxes poetic about pancake batter. Almost every recipe (with the exception of, for example, vinaigrettes) comes with both an informative headnote explaining how and why the authors use the dish in the restaurant and a gorgeous color photo. In the Kindle format, everything is clickable, including embedded recipes. Many of the dishes are Asian-influenced, and reflect Chef Brioza's fascination with fermentation. The first third of the book is devoted to foundation ingredients--vinaigrettes, powders, sauces, pickles, and more. To get the most out of many of the recipes--including pancakes--one really needs to have or make one's own sourdough starter. In the final part of the book, focusing on desserts, especially their legendary (but complicated) "ice cream sandwiches," we hear Pastry Chef Krasinski's voice, a delightful transition.
About half of the dishes I tried and loved are included in their cookbook, including many of their justifiably famous pancakes (my favorites were the everything pancakes), the fried garlic bread with burrata, the duck liver mousse with duck fat financiers, ice cream sandwiches, and of course, at the very front, the State Bird with Provisions.
Here's the critical thing you need to know - the complete dishes contained in this book require multiple steps (often within multiple sub recipes). They require time, quite a few ingredients, and in some cases, special equipment (like a dehydrator for all the corn, sauerkraut, and porcini dusts that finish a variety of dishes). You absolutely can recreate the genius dishes from State Bird Provisions, but it will require a pretty significant investment of time (and money, in some cases.)
To be sure, there are some approachable recipes, like a multitude of great vinaigrettes. The tip to use a little sourdough starter in your pancake batter and to let it rest is worthwhile for all pancakes you might make, not just these. There's a lot to learn from within this staggering cookbook.
I'll update my review once I've tried a few things.
The book is beautiful and the recipes are easy to follow and amazing.
He's excited to cook from it and I'm excited to enjoy the results!
Definitely one of our top favorite cookbooks!