Storboss Vinyl Coated Murryhill Storage Shed, 14 by 31-Feet
|Price:||$3,743.90 & FREE Shipping|
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- Constructed with Storboss' s premium vinyl coating over electro galvanized steel
- Vinyl coating is 5 times thicker than standard steel sheds and provides superior resistance to scratching and UV rays
- Pre-cut and pre-drilled parts for DIY assembly
- 3663 cubic feet of storage space
- 15 Year limited warranty
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|Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||$909.53||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping|
|Sold By||Shedtownusa||Whey Awesome!||Better Shopping USA||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com|
|Color||—||Brown||Offwhite||Green||Almond Walls / Roof / Doors /Gables & Coffee Trim||Putty/Brown|
|Item Dimensions||169 x 375.75 x 116 in||73 x 81 x 40 in||125.5 x 343 x 87.9 in||146 x 381 x 101 in||164 x 370.5 x 114.5 in||92 x 116 x 96 in|
|Item Weight||1,402 lbs||1,362 lbs||1,781.08 lbs||1,450 lbs||1,501 lbs||433.21 lbs|
The extra large Vinyl Murryhill building is the solution for substantial storage needs or workshop/hobby space. The unique roll-up, garage-style door and gable roof blends attractively with its durable vinyl-coated electro-galvanized steel finish to give you maximum value for your storage dollar. Additionally, vinyl coated steel buildings are five times thicker than standard steel buildings and they increase the resistance to scratches and abrasions. In it's larger sizes, this line of buildings can be an ideal secondary garage space. A second sliding side door also allows convenient access to stored items or workspace. With over six feet of wall height and more than two feet of additional gable height, this series offers the most headroom of any steel or vinyl coated steel storage building. Backed by our premium 15 year warranty, the Vinyl Murryhill offers secure storage for years to come.
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I built the 14x31 entirely by myself in 2 1/2 days... everything but the roof panels only becuase it was taking too long to get off of the scafolding and get the panels, plus bolting them in the center was almost impossible by yourself.
First off, throw away the 1600 3/4 phillips screws and nylon washers. Go buy 1600 #10 or #12 5/16 coated self taping screws with neoprene washers. They will not only seal 100 times better, they are 1,000 times easier to use, hold in a magnetic bit, and allow you to angle and line up holes much easier. I would also go buy a 6ft rolling scaffold for doing the roof panels, and helping you hold the beams connecting to the trusses. I left all connecting beams loosely bolted until i was done with the roof. Every single hole lined up on every roof panel, and every side panel. The Final roof panel i had two drill two holes with self tappers, but they were within 3/8" i just didnt want to elongate the panel hole trying to pull them over and risk a leak.
Most importantly i poured the pad myself, set forms with a laser transit, and verified everything was within 1/16" of level, and was sqaure. I was actually able to square the building off of the pad when i built it, and ended up within 1/8" of square diagnonally inside, i didnt even bother trying to shift it.
DO NOT BUILD THIS ON A WINDY DAY. It is flimsy until built, have help, 2 or 3 people if you're going to try to build it in the wind. I used various ladders and the scaffold at different heights to hold pieces. I also used a bobcat to help me set the trusses by myself, they are heavy! The one thing you will have to do if doing it by youself is cut some 2x4s and screw them to the upright beams to holding them up or they will bend the track, even if working with a crew i reccomend it, unless you have one person to hold each upright... for a while
I will add that i did not finish the garage door or the trim in those 2 1/2 days. They were damaged and i had to wait on replacement parts but Arrow was excellent in sending me replacment parts no questions asked. The garage door is also not bad, the instructions arent great to read, but they have good pictures and if you understand how a garage door works, they are more than adequate.
Arrow sells a fit and it MUST be boltded to th concrete. I made my own with 1/4" by 1/2" steel pieces. I drilled into the concrete with 3/8" red head lag bolts. I did this on each side of every upright, then every 3ft drilled through the bottom track and lag bolted it there.
The garage door frame opening is very flimsy. I actually took 2 10ft 4x4s and notched them to fit up into the two top beams, then bolted them to the concrete, and screwed the garage door track to them. Its solid now. I don't have a picture of that handy but ill try to get one later.
As far as leaks go, there are a couple drops here and there when its really windy rain, but i mean nothing i would ever worry about. I did forget to tape the lower ridges of the roof about halfway down when putting panels on, maybe it was te 100 degree heat, but i havent noticed any leaks from it. I will also be adding a 4x4 at the rear gable end to help support the central beam in case of heavy snow, the 18gauge or so gables are all that holds the 5 beams at each end. The two 4x4s at the front i added to the garage door ad plenty of strength, i'll eventually add a header across all 5 beams. The trusses themselves in the center are plenty strong though.
The directions were fine for me. The first step is to take everything out of the boxes, except for the wall and roof panels, then lay them all out, like pieces together, and in numerical order. It will make everything a million times easier doing it that way. I wasnt missing a single piece believe it or not (other than two rollers for the garage door which Lowe's carries). I had 3 extra pieces, that had been duplicate parts.
The only bad thing about this shed, asside from it being packaged with the gables and all hardware on the bottom - so my gables got bent and the corner panels, is the side door. The side door is the cheapest flimsiest sliding door you could imagine. It's just terrible. It's better than nothing, but it doesnt even use a rolling wheel to slide, just a plastic block, which comes out of the track every so often, and irriates me even more. I'll be framing in my own door one of these days. Other than that, everything is excellent. There is a large gap over the garage door opening, but a 6" x 9ft piece of warehouse strip door (like from a heated dock area) will cover right over it and be flexible opening it. I'm very please with this purchase, it's seen 50mph+ winds so far, i even went and stood in it just to watch it, nothing seemed like it was "holding on for dear life". It's very well built.
Also the pictures in the listing are not correct, these are for the 10 or 12ft wide models, this model is much more sturdy as you can see in my pictures. The MurryHill and Arrow VT are the same exact sheds, there is no difference. The coating on the sheds is very good too, i didnt scratch any off during assembly and i havent noted any rust spots since its been up around 6 months or so. There is plenty of room for racking at the end, a work bench, and a full side truck inside to work on, about 4ft in each direction with my Suburban in it. The door clearence is the same as its stated in the manual, within a 1/2". I'll have to actually remeasure it and follow up withte exact measurement.
I wouldnt reccomend a weekend home project guy and his office buddies try to assembly this though. I have a fair amount of experience assembling metal structures among other things. This is the first metal shed i have ever built though. If you dont have a good set of tools, and construction knowledge this shed probably isnt for you. If you have to go buy a drill, this project is not for you.