- File Size: 2370 KB
- Print Length: 58 pages
- Publisher: Carole Asselin; 1 edition (January 3, 2014)
- Publication Date: January 3, 2014
- Sold by: Amazon Digital Services LLC
- Language: English
- ASIN: B00BNYEAJY
- Text-to-Speech: Enabled
- Word Wise: Not Enabled
- Lending: Enabled
- Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #450,815 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
101 Super Easy Tricks to Work Faster with Paintshop Pro (Tips and Tricks to Work Faster with Paintshop Pro) Kindle Edition
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This is all the little "tricks" that can speed things up -- such as if you hold down the space bar the cursor turns into a hand that will move the location on the image.
ONE MORE TRICK: I could best be described as "graphical arts challenged". *Really* bad hand-to-eye coordination. Trying to do a freehand selection around a head, etc? Well ... good luck with that ...
I found out an easy way is use POINT-TO-POINT instead of freehand. Yes, it only draws straight lines. But no matter how badly you screw up, you can move the line until you click the mouse. Then go to the *next* point. A lot of SHORT straight lines work better than trying to maintain coordination on a constantly changing curve.
ANOTHER QUICK TIP for tracing, erasing, etc.: If you have two objects with similar colors -- e.g., a not-well-lit navy blue dress on a dark background, try Image > Negative Image. The negative may show more contrast. You can switch back and forth without affecting the original color. You might want to duplicate the layer and work on the layer. Be careful about using feathering, antialiasing, or other tools that make adjustments based on surrounding pixels, since those adjustments might not be appropriate when you reverse the negative. Note that the software has no way to know whether the current image is a negative or not. So if you select > Negative Image and work on the image, when you select the Image drop down it will not show Negative Image checked.
MARCH 2015 UPDATE: I found out you can add an Invert LAYER. It has the EFFECT of making the image LOOK negative but actually doesn't change the image: Menu > Layers > New Adjustment Layer > Invert... You can make the Invert layer visible but do your actual touch-up on the image itself.
One more thing that involves hardware: Check out SODIAL(TM) Brand New Small Mini Retractable Sleek Black & Silver Optical 3 Button USB to PC Laptop Travel Mouse
(It's sold at various prices under various brand names, including Verbatim.)
There are a LOT of VERY similar "travel mice". But this one has slightly smaller dimensions that make a *huge* difference in use. Remove the "retractor" (by removing the screw that keeps it together), and the mouse is *great* for high-precision movements of the type commonly done with PSP such as modifying individual pixels. You can rest your hand and easily manipulate the mouse with just your fingers. (Other travel mice are a little wider and a little higher, which causes a lot more strain although you wouldn't think so from looking at them.)
JULY 2014 UPDATE
I found a GREAT tip in a guide to using Photoshop Elements, that also works in PSP.
PHOTO RESTORATION (especially good for black-and-white photos): Create a LEVELS ADJUSTMENT LAYER. Menu > Layer > New Adjustment Adjustment Layer > Levels > Preview on Image.
It will open to the Adjustment tab. There is a graph, below that are black, gray and white diamonds and below those three number boxes. Moving the white dot left makes the picture brighter, moving the black dot right makes it darker, moving the gray causes significant changes. Basically, by default 0 is black and 255 is white. When you move the dots, you are telling PSP, "No, 0 isn't black, ANYTHING BELOW THIS NUMBER: (whatever) IS BLACK. Anything above THIS number is white."
This is especially good at removing the grayish "haze" from old photos. Once you try it you'll understand.
If you do a lot of cleaning up document images (old Census records, court documents, etc., old newspapers) often the image compression algorithms (e.g. JPEG) can leave grayish "blurs" around letters. A Levels adjustment layer is often far more effective than trying to adjust brightness and contrast.
SECOND TIP: DUPLICATE THE ADJUSTMENT LAYER. Here's something you'll find surprising: After you have set a LEVELS adjustment layer "as good as I can get it", DUPLICATE the ADJUSTMENT layer. You'll be surprised at how often the result will be "Wow! -- THAT'S even BETTER."
CAUTION -- Many people who go "beyond the basics" wind up buying both Photoshop Elements and PSP because each has strengths and weaknesses compared to the other. ADJUSTMENT LAYERS DON'T "SHARE" BETWEEN ELEMENTS AND PSP. PSP can read and write Adobe's PSD format files, but Elements can't open PSP's native pspimage format.
HOWEVER, although Elements and PSP will RECOGNIZE each other's Adjustment Layers in a PSD image, they won't IMPLEMENT them. In other words, if you add an adjustment layer in PSP, save as PSD and open in Elements, Elements will show the layer in the layers palette -- but it won't DO the adjustment. The same if you go from Elements to PSP.
THIRD TIP: You copied and pasted something to fix up an image and it's a bit too obvious? (For instance, the colors don't quite blend enough.) TRY THE SCRATCH REMOVER. That pulls pixels from AROUND the "line", "scratch", or wherever you run over. It doesn't care if there's REALLY as scratch -- or a slightly mismatched copy and paste. You might have to GO OVER THE AREA SEVERAL TIMES.
ANOTHER TRACING TIP: Having difficulty distinguishing edges and the "negative image" technique isn't enough? ADD ADJUSTMENT LAYERS. You can MASSIVELY change the colors, the contrast, etc. Do your trace -- and then simply delete the adjustment layers.
This book doesn't just rehash the manual that comes with PSP, which is primarily written from the standpoint of what tools do but not why you'd want to do it, but rather it's more written from the standpoint of 'if you want to do _______ then use ________ tool to do that'. It's a good read that won't put you to sleep either. If you're not terribly technically minded yet you know you can do more with the program this book is for you.
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