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Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley 1903-1990 Paperback – October 31, 1997
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Is the accident report the highest form of mountaineering literature? Sure not; yet of four recent books on Denali, Jonathan Waterman's Surviving Denali is by far the most engrossing. (John Hart Summit magazine)
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Note: the Kindle version has some odd formatting in the chapter headers, but it's easy enough to look past that.
I think this book probably could use an update. The book ends at 1990 which's 14 years ago and many things have changed and more lessons to be learned.
This book basically go over many of the bad things that happened to people on Mount McKinley and why. The author make it clear that this is not a very safe mountain to climb despite of its yearly heavy traffic and high summit success rate. The book should be considered as a mandatory reading material for any first time climber of Mount McKinley. As Otto von Bismarck once said, "Only fools learned from their own mistakes, the smart ones learns from the mistakes of others". I think the author is trying to get that message out.
The book has a diversity of different accidents that has occured on the mountain from mountain sicknes, falling and sliding several 100 feet, being blown away while still in the tent. What really got to me was the way some asian teams treated their fellow climbers that, because of sickness/injury, could not performe as well as the others. I hope I never have to rely on their help in a needed situation far up in the mountain.
Reading the book made me even more humble toward the mountain that I am eventually going to climb, and I really recommend this book to anyone who is interested in climbing. It gives you a good perspective on what might happen out there, and maybe makes you more prepared for it.