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Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones: 90 Recipes for Making Your Own Ice Cream and Frozen Treats from Bi-Rite Creamery Hardcover – April 17, 2012
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“The proprietors of the popular San Francisco shop share their favorite ice cream flavors and plenty of things to do to (and with) them.”
—New York Times Book Review
“Between the covers are all of the shop’s secrets. In the generous spirit pervading the Bi-Rite enterprise, the Creamery’s owners have given away the family jewels.”
—Tasting Table San Francisco, 4/17/2012
“It's more that this book is refreshingly free of candied bacon ice creams and their palate shock value-fueled brethren that we've seen so much of in the pastry world recently (and for that, Bi-Rite, we can't thank you enough). Instead, Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones is more about those scoops of buttermilk ice cream (p. 37) piled high on top of fruit pies one weekend, appreciated for its unadorned simplicity another. It is about the day, or so we can daydream on weekdays, when you crumble that cinnamon-laced American baking staple that you've made dozens of times -- snickerdoodles (p. 195) -- into a cinnamon-speckled ice cream base to create Bi-Rite's frozen riff on ricanelas, a cinnamon-y Mexican cookie. And it becomes something new, something different, something fantastic. No candied pork products or sugary, sensationalized corporate cereal additions required. Just two similar, and quite simple, homemade cookies with very different backgrounds. United by ice cream.”
—Jenn Garbee, Los Angeles Weekly, 4/3/2012
“A beautiful guide to the world of American ice cream.”
—Serious Eats, 4/12
"A great primer for beginners."
—Publisher's Weekly, 3/19/2012
“Kris and Anne make amazing ice cream. Now if you can’t make it to 18th Street in San Francisco you can recreate their delights at home, whether it’s decadent Peanut Butter Fudge Swirl, lively Ginger, or their signature Salted Caramel. One thing I know from experience, after you make them all (and you aren’t going to miss out on one) you will have more than one favorite.”
—Emily Luchetti, executive pastry chef at Farallon and Waterbar, author of The Fearless Baker and A Passion for Desserts
“Yes, that’s me waiting patiently in line at Bi-Rite for a scoop of their delectable ice cream whenever I’m in San Francisco. But no matter where you are, you can now recreate your favorite flavors and treats at home, including their scoopendous Salted Caramel, and lots more!”
—David Lebovitz, author of The Perfect Scoop and Ready for Dessert
“Those of us who recall the supremacy of Herrell’s, Steve’s, and Bud’s [ice cream] worry that the Golden Age of Ice Cream is over. Bi-Rite, even better than those three, has brought it back.”
—Alan Richman, GQ
“I love to make ice cream, but Bi-Rite has the magic touch. Kris, Anne, and Dabney are generous in revealing all the insider tips to make homemade ice cream taste as if made by the pros that they are. Thank you for sharing your recipes and expertise.”
—Joyce Goldstein, author of Mediterranean Fresh and Enoteca
“Ice cream happens to be my favorite dessert and I have long awaited this book. Bi-Rite ice creams are legendary, and here the masters generously share their exceptional skill in capturing great flavor and creating texture that makes exceptional ice cream. I will keep this cookbook within easy reach.”
—Jim Dodge, author of The American Baker and Baking with Jim Dodge
About the Author
KRIS HOOGERHYDE and ANNE WALKER opened the acclaimed Bi-Rite Creamery in 2006. A veteran of the food business, Kris found her calling as a baker working with Anne at San Francisco’s 42 Degrees Restaurant. Anne’s career has spanned more than two decades as a pastry chef at some of San Francisco’s finest restaurants, including Cypress Club, Stanford Court Hotel, and Slow Club.
DABNEY GOUGH is a writer and recipe developer whose work has appeared in Fine Cooking, HAWAII Magazine, the Honolulu Weekly, and Edible Hawaiian Islands, among other publications. She is the coauthor of Bi-Rite Market’s Eat Good Food.
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I gathered my ingredients and scanned the recipe to be certain that I understood the technique. I set out to unravel the mysteries of ice cream. Then I noticed I had an ingredient left over. No where in the recipe does the book state when to incorporate the pumpkin puree. In a pumpkin pie ice cream! I read the recipe 3 times completely while doubting my literacy skills. No, it isn't in there. So after I'd tempered my eggs and whisked them into the hot cream, I added the puree. My ice cream turned out smooth, rich, and creamy, but I have no idea when I was supposed to incorporate the ingredient. It blows my mind that out of three cookbooks, I'd pick the errant recipe on my first try. If not for this flub, I'd give the book 5 stars.
It is a nice hardback of the variety that will lie flat on your countertop while you work. The photographs of the ice cream will not fail to make you salivate all over the pages. It has a nice intro to ingredients and equipment for the ice cream kitchen and then progresses to a primer on ice cream techniques, including information on additional cold desserts such as granitas or even making a cake to layer your yummy ice cream on.
The sections are divided by flavors: vanilla, caramel, chocolate, coffee and tea, nuts, berries, citrus, herbs and spices, and tropical fruits. There are handy boxed asides in many recipes to educate you about particular ingredients or techniques pertaining to that particular recipe. You'll also find primers on how to make caramel and other add ins. It is a nice starter guide to get your feet wet, provided you read the entire recipe first to catch any potential oversights.
There are more conventional flavors such as vanilla and chocolate to please the masses, but you will also find recipes that are off the beaten path: green tea ice cream, toasted coconut ice cream, and tangerine granita. I think the book is a winner and will explore it a bit more...after I recover from the pumpkin puree incident today.
The order that you mix the cream, egg, sugar, milk really make a difference. So far I've made their chocolate and vanilla recipes but I wouldn't hesitate to adapt flavors from Perfect scoop using their basic technique to make ice cream
I also will note I still don't know how they used the coffee grounds. I tried it and had to just used a small short espresso. The grounds were a mess and stayed grounds in my ice cream - which was gross. I feel like I missed something. Probably, I'm a total novice in the kitchen. But with the short espresso instead of the grounds, the ice cream was all I imagined it would be - delicious!
The recipes are totally doable for beginners - the ingredients are very basic and easy to find, and there aren't a lot of steps for most flavors. I am a full-time working mom, and have had no trouble making ice cream custards after my daughter goes to sleep. This is a hobby for anyone who loves ice cream.
The pictures are gorgeous, the variety is fantastic, and the commentary is useful and interesting. I've learned how different ingredients make a difference. For example, I ordered vanilla beans from several countries online (I learned from the book and can now verify that they are much fresher and juicier than the ones you buy in the store) so I could compare flavors and get a sense of what I like.
So far, I've stuck with the basics - chocolate & vanilla (both Tahitian and Mexican). All were incredible. I also made marshmallows with more limited success, but that was more due to my lack of skill beating egg whites than the recipe.
All in all, this is probably the only ice cream cookbook you need, and even if you don't make ice cream often it's so beautiful and inspiring that you'll love owning it. I recommend getting this book! Also, if you don't currently have an ice cream maker of if yours doesn't work well, I have an older model of this one and it works pretty well: Cuisinart ICE-21 Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream & Sorbet Maker, White