TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD
|Price:||$50.84 + $4.94 shipping|
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- Tests for Total and Combined Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness and Cyanuric Acid
- Comes with Taylor 9058 comparator
- Includes .75 ounce reagents
- Taylor Model: K-2006
- Sanitizer tests are titrations to help eliminate color-matching problems
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|Item Dimensions||4 x 6 x 9.5 inches|
|Shipping Weight||2.3 pounds|
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|Item Dimensions||6 x 9.5 x 4 in||4.88 x 7.38 x 4.38 in||1 x 1 x 1 in||4 x 2 x 4 in||5.5 x 9 x 4 in||1 x 1 x 1 in|
About the Taylor Technologies K-2006 Pool Test Kit, Complete Service Drop Test Kit For Acid Base Demand, Total Akalinity, amp; Calcium HardnessThe Taylor Technologies K-2006 2000 pool test kit comes complete with FASDPD bromine test for acid base demand, total akalinity, and calcium hardness. This drop tester kit is unlike the OT method which will distinguish between free available chlorine and total chlorine for a accurate reading.
Top customer reviews
Background: We just had built a new backyard pool this summer. Initially, I took water samples every week to two (sometimes three) different pool stores that sell chemicals and equipment to pool owners. I quickly learned that water testing is half-art and half-science. I also learned that NOBODY will be as careful to perform water tests on your pool water than YOU. Finally, I learned that there is so much variation in testing methods -- leading to differing, often conflicting advice from the pool pro at the pool store -- that the best course of action is to just do everything yourself. It's easy to do, and it'll save you money, too.
More background info: I mentioned above that I had my water tested by two (or three) pool companies. Using water samples taken at the same time and place in my pool, and having the water tested within the hour, these pool companies would give sometimes widely varying test results -- leading to sometimes conflicting advice. Example: Pool Co #1 said my free chlorine was 4 ppm, while Pool Co. #2 said my free chlorine was either near zero or super high, like around 10 ppm. Example #2: Pool Co. #1 said my Total Alkalinity was way too high; add acid! Pool Co. #2 said my alkalinity was a little low; add baking soda! Whom do I believe? This is why I test my own water now -- I *very carefully* measure everything, including the amount of water being tested, and the drops of the chemicals I add to the water. I'm not in a rush; I want accurate test results.
What I LIKE:
- It's easy to learn how to test your pool water for all the essential things: Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness and Cyanuric Acid (stablizer). Only the cyanuric acid test is a little tricky, but you can easily repeat that test over and over without using more test chemicals (more on that later).
- There is a very helpful pamphlet included in this kit that explains a lot about water testing and sanitizing. It's pretty easy to read, too.
- Using this kit lets you very precisely determine chlorine levels, including both free and combined chlorine, without having to do any color matching. In fact, there is no color matching for any of the tests except the pH test.
What Could Be BETTER:
- I wish the kit came with a larger supply of the chemicals you use the most: the powder and drops used with the chlorine test, and the red drops used for the pH test. These are the tests you'll want to perform daily. The other tests can be done between once a week and once a month.
- The kit should point users to the Taylor website's videos which show how to perform the tests.
Additional Advice: Using this kit, I'm taking a minimalist attitude towards pool chemicals. I don't shock the pool -- EVER -- unless combined chlorine is 1.0. That saves money on chlorine. I don't add clarifiers, phosphate removers, shocks, superchlorinators. I keep my pool water around 3-4ppm with high levels of stablizer so the chlorine doesn't get burned up in the sun. I do add algicide once a week as a precaution against algae. And I only add acid when pH rises to 7.8 or higher.
Advice on Testing Procedure: Taylor (the manufacturer) says that to measure the liquid drops correctly, you must invert the bottle 180 degrees -- not 90, 120 or 150 degrees. Turn the bottle completely upside down and SLOWLY squeeze the bottle to form full drops that fall into your test water. If you turn the bottle horizontally (90 degree rotation), then squeeze, the drops you create are undersized and you don't get accurate results because you added too little test chemical into your water. I am shocked at how pool pros at pool stores and others who maintain public swimming pools use Taylor chemicals but don't follow Taylor's instruction on performing the test procedure!
I've already disregarded the advice of the "pros" who have suggested that I add this chemical or that chemical to my pool. Using this Taylor kit, I am confident that I can continue keeping my pool water crystal clear and sparkling by spending 5 minutes a day doing chlorine and pH tests, and a few more minutes doing the other tests on Saturday morning. If I followed the advice of the "pros", I would've dumped acid into my pool when I didn't need to, or I would have shocked my pool even though there was no reason to do so. With knowledge comes power, and this Taylor kit gives me the knowledge I need to maintain my own pool water quality.
9/6/2012 UPDATE: It's been a year now since I wrote the above review. I re-affirm everything I wrote. My water has been sparkly clear every day of the year, and I've only shocked the pool once, just before a big pool party with lots of kids. I only use algicide after a big rain, not once a week. I test my water every 2-3 days now. I still take water samples to the area pool stores every couple of months, but I trust my results before I trust theirs. One tip I didn't mention in my review: use only one scoop of the FAS-DPD powder, not two, if the water turns pink after adding just one scoop (it always turns pink for me after one scoop). Adding the extra scoop when the water is already pink doesn't improve or detract from the test you're performing, but it does waste the expensive powder unnecessarily.
12/20/2013 UPDATE: Wow! Thanks, Amazon-ers, for all the Helpful votes! :-) This summer, we dropped using algicide altogether, even after big rains. We keep our pool in the 3.0 to 4.0 free chlorine range, and that apparently has kept algae and pink slime away without adding any other chemicals to our pool. I probably saved $50-$100 this year not using algicide. If I am worried about water clarity after a party or big rain, I add 1.5 gallons of unscented, plain Clorox (which is just diluted form of pool store liquid chlorine). The pool was spotless, crystal clear and enjoyable all year long. I also don't test the water every day, either; instead, I test the water 2-3 times a week. Because the water condition is held constant for so long, and because I know my pool and pool water so well, testing more frequently than this is unnecessary. If you're just starting out, test every day until you really understand your pool and how to balance your water. Then, back-off testing it daily but not less than 2-3x per week. I can't believe how easy it is to maintain crystal clear water. Note that I added the extra advice, above, on the test procedure to use, since it's important to not only use good quality test chemicals, but also to follow a correct test procedure, too.
01/22/2017 UPDATE: I don't have a salt test kit, and my salt water chlorine generator's salt reading was reading high (it does that when the water temp drops). So, I went to three pool stores to have my pool water tested (two of them Pinch-a-Penny stores, one a local pool store). Below are the results from the three stores.
Salt reading? 3000 or 3300 or 3750
Chlorine level? 1.5 or 4.0 or 4.0 (I got 5.5 from my own testing)
pH? 7.3, 7.6, 7.4 (I got 7.2; I added acid an hour earlier)
Alkalinity? 80 or 85 or 120 (I tested 85 after adding a little baking soda when it was 80)
Calcium hardness? 270 or 330 or 290 (I got 380)
Stabilizer? 25 or 80 or 60 (it's 60, and has been for months)
I watched one guy (who didn't test my water) shake drops out (NO! gently squeeze them out). Another squeezed drops holding the bottle horizontally (NO! hold the bottle completely upside down). The imprecision of these pool stores in their testing process is observable if you know what to look for.
The kicker? My chlorine has been high because the water cooled. The Pinch-a-Penny that told me my chlorine was only 1.5 said I should I use the Boost button to increase my chlorine. NO!!
Never, NEVER trust a pool store to test your pool water.
(I'm going to buy my own Taylor salt test kit now....)
I took a sample of the water to the local pool supply store and $320 dollars later I walked out with a bunch of crap that I had no idea was for. The instructions were wrote down for me but it involved a lot of different chemicals "to get my numbers in check". I don't remember the specifics but I was told to add these chemicals in a certain order, shock, then backwash, rinse, scrub then vacuum, then add this other chemical, let it sit for 3 hours then backwash etc etc The water was actually worse than when I started it....Once complete, the pool store told me to get another sample of the water and bring it back to them. On the second trip, I walked out with 3 more types of chemicals that was nearly $100 and I followed the instructions the pool place wrote down for me to do but the water only got worse. At this point I was getting pretty annoyed and did what I would have normally done with anything else I didn't understand. I took to the web and found a pool forum and from there I was introduced to something called the BBB method which uses bleach, borax, and baking soda. Each one of those has a specific purpose on balancing your water that I won't go into here. I took pictures of all the chemicals Id bought in the last 2 weeks and what the pool company told me my numbers were and learned that half the junk they sold me was nothing more than crap that in most cases would only make your pool worse.
They first had me buy my own testing kit (Taylor K-2006) and once I got it in to run a few specific test and post the numbers. A few days later I reported back with the numbers that I got by testing the water myself and the forums members told me exactly what to add to get my pool on the right track.. I believe i had to add a little baking soda, and then a few bottle of bleach and keep my free chlorine 2.0-4.0 ppm at all times. Within a week the pool became CRYSTAL clear and to keep it maintained I found myself adding 1 gallon of 6% bleach every 2-3 days and was able to find bleach onside for $1.50-$2.50 so I was looking at $3-$6 dollars a week basically. I started testing 2-3 times a week but once I started understanding what the pool wanted, I tested weekly. I used the "BBB" method for the rest of the year and the following year after that and the water stayed clear 24/7 and now I'm about to begin getting it ready again this year. Id recommend doing some reading on understanding the BBB method more in depth but I can even explain how great it's been and how much money it's saved. I think most pool places are shady and try to suck all the money they can out of pool owners, especially new ones because 99% of that extra crap they try to sell you is just that....crap. Just remember this, a clean healthy pool doesn't make a pool company money.
It comes in a very well organized, sturdy plastic case, and the color coded testing cheat sheet on the lid is perfect. It isn't cheap, but it helped me balance the water and clean up some algae, so it was worth it to me.
Important tips to save time and reagents:
1 - You don't need more than one scoop of R-0870 if it turns pink the first time. If it doesn't turn pink on the first scoop, try one more. If it isn't pink after two scoops you have no chlorine and shouldn't keep scooping.
2 - For chlorine, calcium, and alkalinity, always use the more concentrated instructions, even if your level is "unknown". 0.5ppm is plenty accurate and will use less than half the product (e.g. for 10ppm chlorine you use 20 drops instead of 50 drops)
3 - Cyanuric acid is only accurate to 100ppm. If you suspect your level is high, you can run a diluted sample as follows:
a. Fill the bottle to the 7mL line with pool water.
b. Fill the bottle to the 14mL line with tap water.
c. Cap and shake to mix for 30 seconds
d. Empty half this sample down to the 7mL line
e. Finish the test as described (add reagent to 14mL, mix 30 seconds, read)
f. Double the resulting value.
Most recent customer reviews
Chlorine test powder was as hard as concrete - unusable!!!