|Item Weight||5.4 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||2.25 x 1.25 x 1.25 inches|
|Item model number||47749|
|Is Discontinued By Manufacturer||No|
|Size||Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Number Of Pieces||1|
|Number of Handles||1|
|Included Components||(1) Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket|
|Warranty Description||Always Guaranteed: email@example.com|
TEKTON 47749 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch (22 mm) Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket
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- Removes and installs oxygen sensors on vehicles with computer-controlled engines
- Common 6 point, 7/8 in. (22mm) socket fits most oxygen sensors
- Offset drive with wire gate accesses sensor from the side, not the top, preventing damage to wires
- Use with any 3/8 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar
- High-performance chrome molybdenum steel construction
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From the manufacturer
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Built for use with ratchets and breakers bars, the TEKTON 47749 Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket makes removing and installing oxygen sensors on vehicles with computer-controlled engines easy. A heat treated, chrome molybdenum steel construction ensures that the socket will take on oxygen sensors time and time again. The corrosion-resistant black phosphate finish also adds longevity to the socket. Designed with mechanics in mind, this socket works quickly and efficiently in the tight space around oxygen sensors. The 6-point beveled nose design securely grips sensor fasteners, preventing damage to the sensor. A wire gate allows you to easily slip the socket onto the sensor, preventing damage to the wires. And with the offset design, it's possible to access the oxygen sensor from the side, not the top, which eliminates the possibility of damage to wires. Even in low light, the high-contrast, permanent, laser etched size markings are easy-to-read. The size is also engraved into the chrome molybdenum steel on the top of the socket.
From the Manufacturer
Easily install and remove oxygen sensors, and get your car engine running efficiently again with the TEKTON 47749 Oxygen Sensor Socket.
Top reviews from the United States
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1) Use Vise Grips to tear off the sensor from the base (or enough so you can do Step 2).
2) Use a deep 22mm or 7/8" socket and a breaker bar, or ratchet if there isn't room to line up the break bar. Hit it with a big hammer (small sledge hammer) and pull like crazy.
3) Mine was tight all the way out, with all of the sensor threads left in the manifold bung.
4) Clean up the threads in the manifold. I had to use a tap (M18x1.50) to clean a couple of threads, then used a thread chaser. (The thread chaser needs a thread or so to get started.)
5) This tool is very handy for snugging up the new sensor.
The person who mentioned the hose clamp idea, THANK YOU.
I would buy these 3 tools below. If your time is more important than your money, get all three at once. If your money is more important than your time, I would "rank" the usefulness as below.....1-3.
1 TEKTON 47749 "Stubby"
2 TEKTON 4929 Deep Well with slot
3 Bovidix 0681922 Flare Nut Wrench, Metric - 19 x 22mm (or similar) (least helpful tool for a really really stuck sensor but great for after initial rust break and tightening)
The 47749 is the best for tight spots and being able to get a breaker bar or an impact wrench on it. But the deep well is better for full force with an impact wrench.
I was able the remove my upper sensor and lower sensor. The deep well was best for upper ... and 47749 was best for lower. But it just depends on your cars setup.
Sometimes you may need to use a ratchet so you may get the proper angle on the sensor, once you put a turn on it, just remove tool from ratchet then reset the tool into position then attach ratchet again. Repeat as necessary until sensor can be unthreaded by hand. If the tool gets stuck on the sensor give a couple of taps on the tool making sure not to hit the sensor. Not so important when removing the old one, but very important when installing the new sensor.
Last part. Make sure you disconnect battery before unplugging sensor. Once everything is installed connect battery. If check engine light is still on after starting the vehicle you may need to bring it somewhere and have codes checked again and or cleared. If the check engine light comes on again there is another issue that needs to be fixed.
The picture of the BAVAUTO one shows its about the same size and its twice the cost of the Tekton one. The Tekton would probably work in most applications just not mine.
This tool spread out on me and was going to slip. I'm not really sure it is fair to blame the tool though. It has a gap in it for the wire and for that reason it is prone to spread until a very heavy amount of torque. I have other O2 sensor sockets and none of them was going to work.
If you really commit to getting it out, you can cut the wire and break off the end and use a normal impact socket and large impact gun on it. Spray the WD40 or PB Blaster and maybe try to freeze it with a can of that and heat the exhaust pipe. (MAP gas is hotter than Propane but may still not be hot enough)
In the end, I got mine off with a Knipex Pliers wrench with a pipe on one handle and a very hot torch that my friend has. This is a Minnesota truck in the rust belt for all of its life and is almost 20 years old.
Top reviews from other countries
On my vehicle, both upstream O2 sensors are in an absolutely horrible spot and I don't know how I would have done the job without it. The drivers side was really stuck on there, so I put a snipe on my ratchet and it eventually broke free. I put a lot of torque on this socket without any issues, so that tells me this is a decently made attachment.
There's no need to be on the fence, if you're doing this job, you need to get this!
Even if it was long enough to fit the sensor comfortably, it would have been way too large to maneuver into position on the passenger side. The 4929 is, however, ideal for the O2 sesors on most 4 cylinder Japanese makes where the sensors are accessed on top of the engine and the sensor length is shorter. In fact you can't use the 47749 on some of these Honda, Acura, Toyota and others because some of the sensors are recessed, requiring the 4929 or similar.
So you need at least both sockets if you work on multiple brands. The quality of both is excellent and you can even use a light impact on the 4929.
Bought this for 08+ STi front o2 sensor in the headers and works great.
The tool quality seems to be excellent and the price is just right. The delivery was prompt and it was packaged well. All TEKTON tools i've ordered and used to this date have never let me down. Really impressed with the quality of TEKTON tools and more impressed with the price range.
Best tool out there for this type of work.