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on March 12, 2015
For WindStream Users, there is a FAQ within their customer support about 3rd Party modems. The following is a copy/paste of the article.

I only needed to enter 0/35 VPI/VCI instead of the default 8/35 VPI/VCI, along with my user/pass for using this modem. Do not forget to update your Linux computer's /etc/resolv.conf to (instead of WindStream's DNS), else you'll only be able to access websites without DNS resolving. (ie. Only via entering the IP address instead of www.foo.net)

I also noticed the TP-LINK's default MTU/MSS is set at 1480/1400 for PPPoA/PPPoE. I think these should be set to "MTU 1492, MSS 1452". An easily read Internet document showing how to easily adjust your MTU is at "http://www.dslreports.com/faq/695". And then further set MSS to "MSS=MTU-40". (Also see Cisco MTU/MSS published documentation via the Internet.)

These modems sound like they're fabricated from Linksys routers including Linksys firmware.
# nmap -O -v
Device type: broadband router|webcam|router
Running (JUST GUESSING): Telewell embedded (89%), D-Link embedded (86%), Linksys embedded (86%)
OS CPE: cpe:/h:telewell:tw-ea501 cpe:/h:dlink:dcs-6620g cpe:/h:linksys:befsr41
Aggressive OS guesses: Telewell TW-EA501 ADSL modem (89%), D-Link DCS-6620G webcam or Linksys BEFSR41 EtherFast router (86%)

If you're around 8,000 feet or more from your telco box, try specifying G.DMT mode within Advanced Setup > ADSL menu. G.DMT is essentially ADSL1 and is more forgiving with high line attenuation or low SNR levels, as well as distance. If you're only receiving around 3Mbps down stream, then you're not missing any of the features of ADSL2, besides likely acquiring a more stable connection when using G.DMT.

If you have varying Line SNR DB levels for up and down, try cleaning up your telephone junction box mounted to the side of your house. Ensure connections are free of any corrosion and all wires on making a secure connection. I stabilized my Line SNR levels by bypassing the modular plug with Cat 5/6 wire, with also doubling the leads to each terminal. (Cat 5/6 is quite brittle.) Once I did this, I gained one or two DB for the SNR levels, as well as completely stabilizing the SNR levels! Line Attenuation seems unaffected by these significant improvements.

1) Is this TP-LINK TD-8816 any better than the SAGEM F@st 1704? Pinging the local modem seems to be faster by 0.1 or 0.2 milliseconds, except when the TP-LINK is trying to acquire the PPPoA/PPPoE connection.

1) The TP-LINK interface seems to have some significant delays for some odd reason. The apparent fix for the delays is to disable "IGMP Snoop" within the "Interface Setup > LAN" menu. (ie. Still getting delays at times though. Likely also has something to do with the MTU/MSS settings, as well as some significant network blocking or "CPU runs" when acquiring the PPP (PPPoA/PPPoE) connection after each saved setting click or power reset.

--- Snip ---
3rd Party Broadband DSL Modem
Published 08/20/2006 11:16 AM | Updated 08/25/2008 02:22 PM
I have a broadband DSL modem that I purchased somewhere else. Is it compatible, and do you support them?
Windstream offers very limited support for broadband DSL modems not issued by Windstream. We cannot guarantee these modems will be compatible with our Central Office equipment. When encountering technical difficulties with your broadband service in conjunction with a non-Windstream modem, our technicians can make sure to see if the DSL signal exists at the Network Interface Device (NID). Windstream cannot provide technical support or assistance in setting up a non-supported DSL modem and recommends in calling the modem's manufacturer for further assistance. When you call the modem's manufacturer, please provide them with the following information:

Former CTC Customers
Type of Connection: DHCP
VPI/VCI: 0/35

Non-CTC Customers
Type of Connection: PPPoE
VPI/VCI: 0/35
Authentication: PAP

For a PPPoE configuration, your Internet username and password is typically the only required information.
--- Snip ---

Modulation: ADSL2 PLUS (ADSL2+)
Annex Mode: ANNEX_A
Encapsulation: PPPoA (Possibly with VC-Mux? PPPoE is also supported. PPPoA maybe faster on ATM networks due to less overhead, while PPPoE simply further encapsulates the packets classifying the packets as Ethernet packets.)
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on June 3, 2017
Modem works great with CenturyLink service in Missouri. It is more consistent than the DLink ADSL modem we had been using for a few years. It has some nice security features that users might like. We have utilized this as both a router and in bridge mode. Currently in bridge mode, we have the PPPOE connection being established with a Debian VM router, and it has been working without a hitch this way for a month now. In fact, we feel our Internet has been more responsive since the modem switch and utilizing a custom built router. This modem does have the ability to utilize VLANs, which we do not incorporate at the house. With the Debian VM setup, we are able to access the programming of the modem while still maintaining the PPPOE connection through the VM. This makes it easy to configure or look at statistics of the modem. Considering the options that are available with this modem, it is well worth the price.
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on August 26, 2016
I bought this modem to replace my 4 year old Netgear that was beginning to give me some issues. Having sold TP-Link products at the store I work at, I was familiar with the brand, and comfortable enough to purchase (especially after discovering it did, in fact, work on Windstream DSL). The setup was *mostly* painless, but there were a few hiccups, and a less tech-savvy customer may run into problems beyond their ability to deal with. And most ISP's will not provide assistance with third party modems. Having said that, I was able to work around them, and am - obviously - online.

What issues? Well, for starters, the IP address conflicted with my router. Both were set to First, I tried setting my router IP to Unfortunately, this didn't work (for reasons I'll cover shortly). At this point, I simply bypassed my router and went straight to the modem. Obviously, this worked to connect to the configuration screen.

Now, I'm to the point of actually configuring my DSL connection. I already had my existing DSL settings from my old modem, so it was relatively simple to insert them into the new modem. I did run into a strange issue with it rejecting my settings the first time (it gave me an odd error about my VPI and VCI being repeated, despite setting them correctly), but that was fixed after I used the wizard to do the initial setup. I then went back in and setup all my configuration options. For some reason, it still didn't connect (but with no feedback as to why). After checking the log, it seems my ISP was rejecting my user/pass. I fiddled with a few settings, and retyped my password to be sure. At this point, it finally connected, indicating I may have just typed my password in wrong (in which case, that's my mistake). I do wish it had a little better feedback, as to the connection status, though. The whole "PVC x" stuff is new to me, so it took some adjusting to. I'm sure it's a nice feature to have - and I may even take advantage of it to test out some different settings - but it's definitely not for everyone, and should be under more advanced options, rather than as part of the main configuration page.

Finally, to get back to the router. My router (a D-Link AC1300) defaults the IP range from and up. As it turns out, so does this modem. I think that, even after changing the default IP of my router to 1.254, both it and my modem were using the same DHCP range, which just confused my poor computer. I set the IP of my modem to and the DHCP range as, and no more conflict.

These aren't major hurdles for someone technologically inclined (I'm a computer tech for a living, so it was relatively simple for me), but this is definitely not intended for plug-and-play end users. I was going to ding this one star for the configuration problems, but ultimately I couldn't justify doing so. Everything works great, and I'm getting my full 12Mb connection (tested at 12.23Mbps up on speedtest.net). The configuration problems weren't a result of a problem with the modem, just a problem with my setup, apart from that error message I got during my first attempt. Still, that wasn't enough for my to ding it one whole star.

Mind you, this review is just after setting it up, so we'll see if this gives me the same kind of life span that my old Netgear did, or has any trouble in the long term.

Huh, for some reason, Amazon goofed up my title. Hopefully, it stays corrected, now.
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on July 24, 2016
I cannot go into all of the details, but I had severe problems with this unit. I spent over five hours on the phone, or in cues with TP and CenturyLink. Much of this time was wasted, as there was some "gate" issue, which the tech. spt. folks at CL had no knowledge of. After over five hours on the phone at CL and TP, I eventually got it to work on my own. Probably could not do it again.

If you have CL, the directions for this unit are completely obsolete. Get something that CL actually recommends, not something that is supposed to work on CL, as this one is.

I had a TP router that worked fine, this doesn't, and now that it works, it seems to drop the signal frequently. Will probably replace it anyway, even though it is finally working. As for CL and TP tech. spt., willing people, but absolute torture. Bring back USA tech spt NOW!
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on June 30, 2016
I needed to replace my old modem which was probably over 10 years old. After reading many reviews, I decided to go with this modem. Set up wasn't bad, but within a day it started dropping the connection. At first, I thought that maybe it was my provider having some difficulties but after it dropped connections consistently when there was more than one device on the network I figured it was the modem. It didn't always have to be multiple devices, sometimes it randomly dropped when I was just online with my laptop. I got back on Amazon, read the poor reviews and saw that was the main reason why people had left bad reviews. I had waited a little bit to set this up after receiving it and then thought the dropped connections would surely slack off but they got more and more frequent. I was still in the return window so I returned it and ordered one more just like it thinking I might get one of the ones people raved about. It was super easy to switch it over and I thought all was well until 45 minutes later, with only my laptop on the network, my connection was dropped.

The device feels light and cheap and unfortunately that was the quality that I got both times. I'm going to return this one as well and order a more expensive one. Maybe if you order one, you will get lucky and get one of the units that the majority of people raved about. However, I struck out twice and it just isn't worth the hassle!

Within two hours of being set up, it has already dropped the connection 3 times. Once while writing this review.
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on May 1, 2012
Let me be clear: this is just a modem that will bridge to your router. This is in fact exactly what I wanted, because I have PPPoE and all routing/NAT on my wireless router, so I didn't need all that other stuff on my modem. A Motorola modem from AT&T was going to cost me $80 with tax. This TP-Link is a steal.

That being said, the instructions aren't quite correct. For Windows XP and Vista the manual shows that you need to manually set a static IP address on your computer to log into the modem. For Windows 7 it indicates that you should set your computer to retrieve an IP address automatically. That is not true (this modem doesn't do DHCP). And don't plan on calling tech support; the 24/7 tech support number told me no one was available. For that I dinged it a half star.

To set it up you'll need the ADSL VPI and VCI settings from your provider. I had never heard of these, but you can find a list at e.g. [...] . The default settings of 0/35 work just fine with AT&T, so I actually could have plugged it in and not changed anything---a plug-and-play bridge. I logged in and changed the IP address, though---it comes configured to

In all, you can't beat the price and it does what it's supposed to do. If you don't need instructions or tech support, you're good to go.

And no, the version I received doesn't look like the picture, thankfully---just a handsome medium-sized black box.
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VINE VOICEon October 30, 2014
So far I am thrilled with this simple ADSL2 modem. I'm on an Verizon DSL and was using the Westell modem Verizon sold us ten or so years ago. The Westell seemed to be getting marginal and would often show a speed boost if I unplugged it, waited a minute, then plugged the power back in. Today I used an dslspeedtest to check my speed before and after a Westell reboot. It clocked in at .82M the first time and .80M after a reboot. Next I replaced the Westell with this TP-LINK unit and redid the test. Wow, 1.29M twice in a row.

Now I know that these are not great speeds for modern times, but we live on acreage far from the nearest phone equipment station, do not have cable available to us and generally have been living with subpar "high-speed" internet for a long time. In our situation a 60% download speed improvement is a big deal.

Only time will tell how reliable and durable this unit is, but so far I am thrilled.

Installation could not have been easier. I removed the old Westell, plugged this sucker into our phone/dsl line, power source and Netgear router, waited until all lights were green .... and everything just worked! I had my laptop out and was all ready for an evening of configuration &)*&)7, but it just worked.
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on December 26, 2014
I begun to have connection problems about 90 days ago. Intermittently, web pages required 3 clicks before the page URL would come up and then the page loading itself was very slow (generally indicating a download-speed problem). However, speed tests showed that my download speed was at maximum but upload speeds had diminished to almost nothing (.01kbps). Plus, ping delays ran in the 60ms+ range (about 4x slower than usual). A technician at Sonic ran a number of tests and concluded the Modem must be the problem since all other tests (download speed, line quality, etc) tested within specs (this was strange... to have download speed at max and upload speed at almost "0"). So I purchased the TD-8616, plugged it in and all the problems went away.

One note on the difference between TP-8616 and the TP-8816... the 8816 has a built-in NAT firewall. If you don't have a Router then the 8816 is the way to go. I have a router so the 8616 was the perfect fit for me. If it holds up for a couple years then (at this price for a modem) I would give it 5 stars.
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on August 26, 2016
Update 2017-08-13:
Well, don't trust the promise of lightning protection. I had lightning strike a few weeks ago over 100 feet from my house. "Pop". No internet. I opened the case and saw that the main microchip inside had a sizable burnt crater in it. I didn't dock a star from my rating, though I probably should have. Personally, although they advertise that sort of lightning protection in a device, it's the end-user's responsibility to adequately protect the device. This was plugged into an old UPS (surge arresting function was probably worn out. They only last a few years). Also, my phone line wasn't plugged into a surge arrestor (though I thought it was! Oops!) At the same time this fried, so too did my Roku 2 (plugged into my router, not directly into this modem). I don't know if the power surge was through the air, through the power line, or through the phone line. But either way, always make sure that your device is plugged into an adequate surge arrestor both electrically and through the phone line. Don't trust this device to be bulletproof on its own. And no, I didn't try getting warranty service. I'm not even sure if this thing's warrantied against lightning or not. I just know that it advertises having lightning protection... that didn't work.

Original Review:
Silent but efficient. Setup was simple, but I did have to jump through the hoop of configuring my Windows 10 ethernet adapter to use static IP address in order to set up. Actually, I may not have needed that step... It is set by default to Multimode Annex A/I/L/M, with VPI/VCI 0/35... Settings perfectly compatible with my local small ISP. On the CD are instructions for configuring your static IP for setup, but they're for a Win98/XP/ME computer, so knowledge of how to get around in your network adapter settings on newer OS's may be required. A good solid modem, easy to set up, but does require some know-how to configure. Updated instructions should be provided, hence why only 4 stars.
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on November 13, 2015
After CenturyLink raised the rent price for the modem they supplied me (a Westell I think?) to $10 a month I decided to just buy my own modem. They told me I could buy the modem I already had for $100, Amazon had the same one for way less, however this TP link TD-8817 had better reviews. We already had a router so I didn't need a modem/router combo (which this modem isn't).

A few tips if you are switching from a CL provided modem to this:
~IME this TP Link modem does not work when not in bridge mode with CL service.
~Like Mr Lopez said in his review the settings are 8/35 for VPI/VCI, and the bridge mode is the top one in quick start, just plain bridged Ipllc.
~Have a box to send back the old modem and all supplied cables. They only send a label, no box.
~Double check on your next few bills that they are no longer charging you for the modem you sent back.

Mr Lopez has great info. If you buy this modem and have Century Link print his review for reference during setup. The only problem I have is that I can't download the updated firmware since I can not get this modem to work without bridge mode and I can't access the modem when it is bridged. I probably could download the firmware first and then connect my computer directly to the modem and then update the firmware, and I might do that if I have any future issues, but for now it's working.
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