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Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America Paperback – Illustrated, April 16, 2013

by Gustavo Arellano (Author)

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The nationally syndicated columnist and bestselling author of ¡Ask a Mexican! presents a fascinating and tasty trip through the history and culture of Mexican food in this country, uncovering great stories and charting the cuisine’s tremendous popularity in el Norte.

Nationally syndicated columnist and bestselling author of ¡Ask a Mexican! Gustavo Arellano presents a tasty trip through the history and culture of Mexican food in this country, uncovering great stories and charting the cuisine’s tremendous popularity north of the border. Arellano’s fascinating narrative combines history, cultural criticism, food writing, personal anecdotes, and Jesus on a tortilla. In seemingly every decade for over a century, America has tried new culinary trends from south of the border, loved them, and demanded the next big thing. As a result, Mexican food dominates American palates to the tune of billions of dollars in sales per year, from canned refried beans to tortilla wraps and ballpark nachos. It’s a little-known history, one that’s crept up on this country and left us better for it.

Print length

320 pages
Language

English
Publication date

April 16, 2013
Dimensions

5.5 x 0.9 x 8.38 inches
ISBN-10

1439148627
ISBN-13

978-1439148624
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Editorial Reviews

Review

“In this entertaining nod to culinary and cultural histories, journalist Arellano traces the roots of Mexican food in the U.S. and explores the cuisine’s many offshoots, underscoring why salsa is now our #1 condiment… Arellano makes the point, one that’s particularly relevant in today’s heated immigration debate, that as much as some Americans may protest Mexican immigrants, they’re in love with Mexican food.” —Publishers Weekly

“An appealing cultural exploration of Mexican food in the United States…. Readers will come away not only hungry, but with a deeper understanding of the Mexican people and their cuisine.”—Kirkus

“In a chatty, lighthearted style and with mordant wit, Arellano traces the steady northward creep of Mexican cooking from Texas and the Southwest into the heart of Yankee territory.”—Booklist

“[Arellano] manages to squeeze in mentions of just about every Mexican restaurant (including, believe it or not, both Taco Cabana and the dining room of the Austin Hyatt), product line, and preparation in the country. If you’ve ever wondered about the roots of Taco Bell or why fajitas are called that or who invented the frozen-margarita machine, you’ll find answers here.”—Slate Magazine

“Gustavo Arellano…is perhaps the greatest (and only) living scholar of Mexican-American fast food.” ― The New York Times

Arellano approaches his subject with incisiveness, humor, academic rigor, and, of course, an endless appetite. ― Southwestern American Literature

About the Author

Gustavo Arellano’s ¡Ask a Mexican! column has a circulation of more than two million in thirty-eight markets (and counting). He has received the President’s Award from the Los Angeles Press Club, an Impact Award from the National Hispanic Media Coalition, and a 2008 Latino Spirit Award from the California State legislature. Arellano has appeared on the Today show, Nightline, NPR’s Talk of the Nation, and The Colbert Report.

Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ Scribner; Reprint edition (April 16, 2013)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Paperback ‏ : ‎ 320 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1439148627
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1439148624
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 11 ounces
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.5 x 0.9 x 8.38 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #140,814 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #32 in Hispanic American Demographic Studies
- #84 in Mexican Cooking, Food & Wine
- #166 in Gastronomy History (Books)

Customer Reviews:
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Gustavo Arellano

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Gustavo Arellano is a columnist with the Los Angeles Times, host of its daily podcast, author of multiple books, longtime essayist and commentator on multiple things, and the proud son of two Mexican immigrants, one whom came to this country in the trunk of a Chevy. He urges all of ustedes to buy as many of his books as possible, then buy some more.

Customer reviews

4.6 out of 5

245 global ratings

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Narut Ujnat

So very interesting….

Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2024

Verified Purchase

I saw the author being interviewed in Youtube in some documentary and then this book sounded interesting.

I am very glad I picked it up. Sure, I love Mexican food, but of course what I grew up loving is not truly traditional Mexican fare, but still the story of how Mexican food can be found al over the world is pretty great stuff.

Well-written and some really interesting anecdotes about how American culture spread this food everywhere. Today, for example, it isn't just ketchup, but salsa that is everywhere….

Recommended.

Helpful

Motorzot

It has something for everyone that likes Mexican food in the US.

Reviewed in the United States on July 22, 2023

Verified Purchase

I've been reading Gustavo Arrellano's column, Ask A Mexican, for years so picking this up was a no-brainer. He writes about Mexican food in the US with the same wit and heart as in his column.

What surprised me is that there are almost no bad guys in this book. It's not a complaint about the lack of "authenticity". Instead, he writes that if someone cooked it, and someone ate it with enjoyment or at least, fulfillment, then it is a valid bite of food.

Whether it is a Texan Chili Queen, a woman packing lunch for family, Glen Bell trying to run a business and creating an empire or cowboys stringing up a tender foot for bringing salsa from New York City and not a jar of Pace Picante, Arellano looks behind the curtains at their history and argues this is what Mexican food in the USA is and we should be happy for it.

The only person he knocks (lightheartedly) is Rick Bayless for his clumsy knock at Los Angeles/So Cal Mexican food and local legend Jonathan Gold.

I'd rather eat NYC salsa than see someone trash talk Jonathan Gold.

A wonderful read that appeals to so many that I've bought this book multiple times just to give them away.

2 people found this helpful

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Shana

Interesting read on Mexican food history; NOT a cookbook or exhaustive treatise on the subject

Reviewed in the United States on June 9, 2019

Verified Purchase

I struggle with this review because there are some really great things in here. Arellano does a good job describing the historical roots of Mexican food in the US. However, it's not an exhaustive treatise on the subject. If you want that, stick with Kennedy. This is the story of how certain types of food became popular in certain parts of the country at specific time periods. It's informative and entertaining. It's definitely worth a read if you're interested in these subjects, but it's not like Kennedy's books that go in depth on flavors, ingredients, etc. It's a lot like a collection of essays on tacos, tamales, etc in the US, and that's not a bad thing as long as you know what to expect. I suggest reading an excerpt or sample, and only buying if his style appeals to you (or if you're familiar with his column). Reviewers who were expecting a cookbook would have done well to take this step.

I liked it, and I learned a lot. However, I struggled for a few reasons. Mainly, the author definitely has a chip on his shoulder, and it comes out in the writing in inconsistent ways. I totally agree with his take on what is "authentic;" essentially, he's saying if it's inspired by Mexican food, it's Mexican food (so yeah, Taco Bell counts, and I think that's fine). I don't embrace the so-called purists, like Kennedy; cuisines evolve and cultures adapt them. Mexican food took on a lot of influence from the Spanish and Lebanese; this doesn't make Mexican food Spanish or Lebanese. I like the mindset. However, there is a simmering resentment of the cuisine being anglicized that comes through quite often, so the message is conflicted. 'Everything Mexican-inspired is Mexican, but anglos have bastardized it all, but that's okay because that's what they do and now it's famous' is the confusing message I got from the book.

There's definitely a California-centric angle to the book. As a New Mexican, we have a different idea of the histories of many of these dishes, and my native Tusconan husband took issue with several claims the author makes as well. There's probably no definitive answer, but a little more research may have balanced the book more. Additionally, some of the restaurant choices were odd if you live in the areas discussed. Chicos Tacos in El Paso is generally reserved for drunk people at bar closing time. La Posta de Mesilla isn't even mentioned. El Charro in Tuscon is basically ignored, but El Guero Canelo is discussed in depth. Not bad choices, but the choices of someone not from the area who didn't seem to do much more than cursory research.

I liked this book. It's got a lot of neat trivia, and it's funny, even with the undercurrent of contempt. The chapter on Oaxacan food and people was very informative (and my favorite; in fact, I'm going to seek out more reading about their struggles). Just be sure to take the book for what it is....informative entertainment.

12 people found this helpful

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RV

Great Read and a Must Have for any Mexican food afficianado!

Reviewed in the United States on November 21, 2013

Verified Purchase

This book is a must in every home library for those of us that remember Mama's hand made tortillas and the funny looks we got when we brought out lunches in large grocery bags all rolled up.

I was very interested in the assimilation stories of Mexican and Tex-Mex food into the white homes and what they considered to be Hispanic food. I still have friends today who feel that "Taco Bell" is Mexican food, and have never ventured into Santa Ana, CA for the real delights held in places like Sarinanas Tamale Factory.

It was one of the most thorough accounting of the Ray Kroc school of graduates that I have ever run across, that included Glen Bell and others.
While I was surprised not to see the Pup N' Taco franchise noted, this was one of my first experiences with Americanized Mexican food, I was happy to see Del Taco and Naugles listed as I remember the Bun Taco at the Corona, CA franchise when I was a kid in the 70's

Overall a Great historical epicurean telling of the Latin food movement and definitely a well written accounting through the genius that is Gustavo Arellano.

12 people found this helpful

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Kindle Customer

Taco USA, a taste of heaven!

Reviewed in the United States on November 27, 2015

Verified Purchase

I don't understand why some gave bad reviews to this thoroughly engrossing book. I love Mexican food like so many others and found the detail and range of topics very interesting and informative. You can appreciate the menu more when you understand it's history. Arellano is an entertaining and funny writer. His Ask a Mexican book and columns are outrageously politically incorrect (God bless him) and he is as fearless here but this is no polemic. This is like a great Menudo, a savory blend of several cultures and regions to produce a bit of culinary heaven. I especially liked the stories of the rise of Tamales, Tacos, Burritos, La Victoria, Taco Bell, Pace, Tapatio and so much more we encounter every day. I highly recommend this book to anyone that has a real interest not just in recipies but how they came about. Well done Gustavo!

11 people found this helpful

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Top reviews from other countries

C Dubs

Give Me Tacos, Or Give Me Death

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on March 1, 2022

Verified Purchase

If you ever wanted the full story on the greatest culinary achievement in the history of mankind, this is the book. Arellano serves up delicious anecdotes while making a convincing argument that a life without tacos is simply not worth living.

el soares

Now I need more tacos

Reviewed in Brazil on May 28, 2014

Verified Purchase

The pillars, the icons, the history, it's all in the book. When it comes to Mexican food, what else do I need?

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