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Taste, Memory: Forgotten Foods, Lost Flavors, and Why They Matter Paperback – October 25, 2012
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"A meander, with hoe, through organic vegetable patches, lost orchards, seed catalogs and produce markets with a dedicated gardener in search of a small farm. From experiments “trying to live off the grid” in Washington state after college to raising produce on semiurban plots around Portland, Maine, Buchanan has always followed his passion for heritage plants: the ugly heirloom baking apple, undersized pear, thin-skinned tomato and other relics of the old family farm lost or marginalized by bottom-line-obsessed agribusiness, environmental degradation and government regulation. In this combination of memoir and treatise for the back-to-the-farm movement, the author laments the loss of 90 percent of America’s crop diversity over the last century. What that means to the average supermarket shopper is dinner without a world of region-specific savors―the fruit of what the French call the terroir. Seeking inspiration and the perfect place to start a market garden, Buchanan made research forays to thriving organic farms and nurseries in New England, talked with seed collectors, visited a USDA gene bank and hunted for heritage apple trees by highways and in backyards. He ponders the relevance of agricultural diversity in the contemporary world and the role individuals can play in keeping heritage varieties in our markets and on our plates. Buchanan ended up swapping work for equipment and the use of small parcels of tillable land around Portland, where he continues to battle late blight and caterpillars to raise a varied crop of rare apples for his own brand of raw cider. It’s a catch-as-catch-can lifestyle, but it’s deeply satisfying to Buchanan and demonstrates the way forward for a new generation of farmers and locavores. A specialized look at the small-farming movement, written with appealing self-knowledge, diligent research and occasional flair."
"Not just a feast for the palate, Buchanan’s book is a feast for the souls of those concerned about a fast-food culture that prizes uniformity and convenience over the kind of tastes that cannot be produced on an assembly line. He focuses on heirloom foods, those dating back at least 50 years and unchanged by modern methods of food production. After working in a garden for seven years in Portland, Maine, Buchanan finally settled into a rhythm that offered elements of city and country life―gardening on borrowed and leased land, a quasi-farm, and across two acres of back yards, and working informally with other like-minded people in a food enterprise focused on flavor. A pioneer in the heirloom seed movement in the early 1990s, he aspires not to an effete effort at reviving fragile foods but rather to bringing regionally and culturally different foods to the table. His clearly defined goal, “to create the best plant collection for this particular time and place,” informs this delightful book rich in delicious details of journeys to discover forgotten foods and flavors."
As debate rages about genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and their impact on seeds and farming, there’s another issue that deserves to be widely visited: the dearth of diversity in our current food system. Because of changes in our agricultural model, scores of once-common fruits, grains, and vegetables have been phased out by the need for food that’s more easily shipped across long distances and stored for days, if not weeks, before getting to market. What have we lost as a result of these farming changes and distribution demands, and what can be gained by preserving the diversity that’s left? Author David Buchanan’s answer, in the form of Taste, Memory, is compelling and important. He combines personal stories as well as encounters with leaders in biodiversity to present a glimpse of what a healthy food system might look like, one in which plants and animals are matched to the land and the climate, not to consumer demand or agribusiness bottom lines. Thoughout, Buchanan’s writing style is lyrical but straightforward, perfect for observations about food and growing. 'My farm project isn’t about just saving seeds or old fruit varieties,' he writes, 'but searching for a creative connection with land and plants that, until the last few generations, was at the heart of most people’s lives.' There’s enormous value in preserving the agrarian diversity that humans have enjoyed for centuries, he believes, and that we’ve only recently lost. Buchanan makes an excellent case for waking up to the issues of crop diversity and how we need to continue exploring how our foods can evolve along with our methods for cooking, preserving, and treasuring them. Buchanan’s work is a savory treat, full of fresh insight and delicious inspiration.
"As we increasingly seek to reconnect to our agrarian roots and restore our relationship with the land, we need guides who have been down the path before us and already negotiated some of the tangles along the way. There is no better guide than David Buchanan. Taste, Memory is the captivating work of a writer who is alert to the world around him and ready to learn from it. Buchanan's elegant celebration of the 'ongoing conversation', as he calls it, between generations of heirloom food plants and the families that have lovingly kept them alive, will inspire a new generation to nurture the happy marriages of plants and place that make communities lively, resilient, and deeply meaningful."--Rowan Jacobsen, author of Fruitless Fall and American Terroir
“Taste, Memory is not the typical storybook novel about finding redemption on an isolated old farm, but a 21st-century success story built around collaboration, innovation, and vibrant new models for sustainable farming. David's book helps us explore agricultural models past and present, in order to help us find our own unique niche, rhythm and flow in the emerging local food economy. His ability to help us appreciate the nuances of heirloom crops and regional flavors reminds us that we can help to preserve agricultural and food traditions for the future...one seed, one bite, and one backyard at a time!”--John Forti, garden historian, “The Heirloom Gardener”
“With a scientist’s intellect and the heart of a 21st-century Noah, David Buchanan goes beyond biodiversity to explore the true place of Taste, Memory, a sensory experience that ties all of mankind together at life’s dinner table. Using taste as his compass, Buchanan uncovers authentic endangered flavors, making us all long for another serving.”--Poppy Tooker, New Orleans food activist and host of “Louisiana Eats”
“Buchanan shows us that reconnecting with the sources of our food reconnects us with what it means to feel alive. His unbridled enthusiasm for all things agricultural―from a forgotten peach variety to the proper soil balance for a rooftop farm―is infectious.”--Curt Ellis, FoodCorps
“In Taste, Memory, David Buchanan shares his quest to promote fruit and vegetable biodiversity in New England. "Plant it to save it" is his mantra. In his thoughtful meditation and memoir, Buchanan reveals a powerful commitment to collecting and conserving the apples, blueberries, rutabagas, potatoes and other foods long part of this rocky and harsh landscape. As important, though, is his clear-sighted understanding of the necessary innovations that will be required to preserve the fantastic Baldwin apples, Bordo Beets and Amazon Chocolate tomatoes not just for this generation, but for the next seven generations. An important book.”--Amy Trubek, author of The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir
“Every peach, every turnip, every ear of corn becomes a local food in the fullest sense when gardeners and fruit growers opt for regional advantage. There are stories to be told here, be it the lore of the Fletcher Sweet apple or the enduring affair of ‘that blonde’ cucumber from the Boothbys. How well David Buchanan weaves the human element into this celebration of plant selection and provincial cuisine. Good eating goes hand in hand with our dance with place. Let Taste, Memory bring appreciation for varietal delight to your dinner table.”--Michael Phillips, author of The Holistic Orchard and The Apple Grower
“Taste is one of the great joys in life, a sense and sensibility that all of us share. But it is a common pleasure we are in real danger of losing, as our modern world seems bent on a collision course with ever greater homogeneity and the lack of distinctive local flavors and cultures. In this thought-provoking book, David Buchanan captures taste experience from whence it once flowed, from an overpowering, life-enhancing diversity.”--Tom Burford, orchardist, historian, and author of The Apples of America
“A Greek proverb states, ‘A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in’. David Buchanan’s book about food, agriculture, community, and connections to soil and climate, embodies the spirit and vision of the Greeks. Beyond weaving an engaging narrative about farming, the past twenty years of his life reflect the extraordinary changes occurring in American agriculture and a rediscovery of taste and quality in food. We are indeed fortunate that, as a young man, he has many years to plant apples, peaches, and other notable foods!”--Jeffrey P. Roberts, author of The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese
“David Buchanan takes on his subject, some of it prickly, with grace and eloquence. Taste, Memory is hard to put down. It is beautiful read that illuminates the challenges to and importance of biodiversity, a subject that David frames with our taste buds and personal food histories. A wonderful book, and an important one!”--Deborah Madison, author of Vegetable Literacy and Local Flavors
Top Customer Reviews
One of the most interesting points in the book is that many of the fruits mentioned fell out of favor because they were too good for mass marketing. They tended to ripen quickly and be too delicate to ship any distance. One particular watermelon, for example was extremely sweet and delicious all the way to the rind and skin. Of course a melon with a thin, edible skin is far too fragile to move very far from the field where it grew, so the variety was long since abandoned in favor of varieties that could be picked under-ripe and in a pinch, substitute for a bowling ball.
I can't recommend this book highly enough. I finished it in an evening, and like many of the rare varieties Buchanan quests for, the found it to be delicious and leaving me wanting more.
Read this book if:
-You're into rare foods and preservation.
-You enjoy reading about everyday life in early America.
-If you like stories about unique, real people and their obsessions.
-If you enjoy well-written, descriptive non-fiction.
This book is a passionate call to change that, mostly by buying and growing locally and seasonally. It's not only good for flavor, it's good for health and for the community.
I know reading this has given me the final impetus to re-work our front yard to make it more productive!
Buchanan's writing is engaging and informative, as he is involved in "plant collecting" via saving seeds and propagating heritage fruit trees, and finding ways to make this passion work both practically and profitably- at least enough to keep doing it! He branches off into all linds of other co-operative enterprises, such as fermenting ciders from heritage apples, making smoothies from historic strawberries that are too delicate to bring to market unfrozen, and other interesting spins on conventional market gardening.
I also appreciated his community-building exercises in creative scrounging, which seem to end in win-win situations all around.
Oddly, for someone who is enamored of growing antique fruit trees from scratch, he seems to have a somewhat short attention span for his various enterprises... but he does make it work, and the sheer quantity of ideas is intriguing.
Highly recommended for people interested in alternative forms of agriculture, especially involving heritage and heirloom species.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
One of my favorite books. I am in no way shape or form a bibilophile, but more of a foodie and a hopeless romantic. Read morePublished 9 months ago by Alex
Great story telling and history telling about the variety and varieties of foods we used to eat. Made me want to go out and look for those lost tastes!Published 19 months ago by Myrna H. P. Hall
I really enjoy cooking and finding new recipes. This book has great stories along with great recipes. Happy cooking to mePublished on June 14, 2014 by Peg O'Briant
I was researching artist Jessica Rath and discovered a passage about her in David Buchanan's book, when he ran into her at the USDA Preservation Orchard. Read morePublished on March 3, 2014 by Sarah Kinney
Good thoughtful book on foods, diversity and why we should have greater feeling for what we eat and why we should value what variety we have.Published on December 21, 2013 by J. B.
Two books that I read during vacation were Margaret Atwood's Year of the Flood and this one. If you know about how irreverently Atwood portrays "eco-aware" characters in her... Read morePublished on September 25, 2013 by omni-biblio-vore
Buchanan's idealism and naiveté nudge him to pursue old timey tastes and heirloom apple varieties; his journeys thither and yon make for gently compelling narratives which... Read morePublished on July 24, 2013 by Galileo
A book for anyone who cares about food and community. A good read, too! Co-op managers, small farmers, and those of us responsible for buying and putting a meal on the table will... Read morePublished on April 17, 2013 by Elizabeth Rosin