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Taulman 3D 618 Natural Nylon Filament for 3D Printer 1.75mm 1lb Spool MADE IN USA

3.4 out of 5 stars 14 customer reviews

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Specifications for this item
Brand Name taulman3D
Material Type Nylon
Color beige
Is Recalled? N
Outside Diameter 1.75  mm
UNSPSC Code 23260000

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Product Description

Nylon 618 was the first nylon developed by taulman3D specifically for 3D printing. It is a high strength, high durability nylon co-polymer filament. The nylon 618 filament does not emit any dangerous fumes during printing and has no odors. The filament is also chemically resistant to oils, acetone, alcohols, MEK resins, most alkalines, most 2 part casting compounds. * Specifications when 3D Printed: - Tensile strength: 4,575 psi - Ultimate elongation: 86% - Tg glass transition temp: 48C * Typical Print Settings: - Print temp: 250C - 260C - Nozzle: any size - Print speed: 80% of ABS speeds - Retraction: 1mm/.1mm nozzle (e.g., for a .5mm nozzle = 5mm) - Print bed: glass heated to 55C with coat of PVA


Product Details

  • Shipping Weight: 1.2 pounds
  • ASIN: B00BGMM8TW
  • Average Customer Review: 3.4 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (14 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #116,660 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific)
  • Product Warranty: For warranty information about this product, please click here

Customer Questions & Answers

Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

By Julia Truchsess on February 21, 2013
A disadvantage of 3D-printed parts has always been their relative fragility compared with injection-molded parts, and their related tendency to de-laminate. With the introduction of Taulman 618 nylon, that is no longer the case. Parts printed with this material can be 80-100% as strong as injection-molded ones.

Changes to my normal ABS workflow on my Afinia printer were minimal. I purchased the recommended Garolite sheet and temperature-lowering attachment from Octave Systems. The Garolite is a lot thicker than the perfboard I usually use so I had to reset my initial platform height. I had to leave a bigger-than-usual gap (about 0.5mm) between the nozzle tip and the bed or else the feed stepper would jam, possibly due to the viscosity of nylon being different from that of ABS during extrusion. The temperature-lowering gizmo must be used if you're printing with an Afinia, since the 618 nylon likes a 240 degree C extrusion temperature and the Afinia doesn't have user-adjustable temp. I also opened my fan duct damper since the nylon seems to print better that way, whereas I've been keeping it closed for ABS lately for maximum part strength. I always print with a raft, so bed leveling is not super-critical for me; I didn't even bother re-leveling.

The material unfortunately does not come on a "real" spool, but rather in a sort of clamshell thing where the filament comes out of a zigzag seam between the two halves of the clamshell. OK, seems reasonable, by why on earth haven't they punched a hole in the middle to act as a hub?!? I cut my own hub hole, stuck a piece of PVC tubing in it, and it seems to be working ok, but I'd much rather have a genuine spool and I'd much rather buy 1kg of it than 1 lb.

The parts are unbelievable.
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I just spent quite a bit of time battling this filament. No matter what I did, it would not stick to the build platform. Now that I figured it out, it works like a dream. I removed a star for the moisture issues, the amount of work required to print with it reliably, and the extreme contraction it exhibits making it difficult to do anything precise. But it still gets 4 stars because it really opens up the printing possibilities once you have it working.

To get this to stick, do the following:

(1) Buy some canvas: B000WFT9Z0
(2) Get some epoxy: B0002BBV46
(3) Get something totally flat that can replace or be attached to your build platform
(3a) If you add something to the build platform, make sure you add something of equal thickness to the part of the printer that hits to the Z-axis endstop. i.e. if you add one inch to your build platform but don't also add 1 inch to the endstop, the machine is going to ram the board into nozzle and push an extra one inch past where it should go.
(4) Using the epoxy, glue the canvas to the flat surface. Try to make sure you get the epoxy all over the board without gaps.
(5) Relevel the build platform, but make it a slight bit tighter than you normally do.
(6) Set your print job to 240-245C and print!

By leveling the platform a bit tighter than usual, you are forcing the first layer of nylon to extrude into the threads of the canvas fabric, giving it a stronger grip. Somehow, I was able to print a medium-sized piece at 40% infill, and it stuck!
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1 Comment 7 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you? Yes No Sending feedback...
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I haven't used this material yet but after reading the manufacturer's website I can see why some are having issues with the product. The following may solve your problems.

Nylon filaments absorb moisture and the water boils when you extrude it causing print issues. To prevent this you need to store your nylon filament in a sealed container with a desiccant between uses. I storm my PLA the same way.

I suggest storing your filament in a large plastic tub with a semi-sealed lid then you can use either of the following to dessicate the air.
B000H0XFCS
B0028M7WK4

Both desiccators have color changing silica so you will know when you need to recharge the desiccant. I bought a hygrometer so I can know the exact humidity level in my container. It stays around 35% RH all the time. I've been storing about 15 kg of filament for a couple weeks now with ambient humidity in the 50% range without needing to recharge the desiccant yet.

If you store your nylon at less than 40% RH for a day or two then pull it out only when you want to print I think you will have much better results.

For more information about the nylon products including problems caused by humidity you can go here... [...]
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Verified Purchase
Came on a spool as pictured, rather than the "bag" mentioned in other reviews.

Came really, really moisture saturated. It was in a bag with silica but silica can only do so much. First print was really bubbly and lots of steam came off the extruder - baked the filament at ~105C for a few hours and left it in a bag with loads and loads of desiccant overnight and seems better.

Don't recommend this for printers with Teflon/PTFE hot ends (like Solidoodle) because the optimal adhesion temperature is very close to the temperature at which Teflon starts releasing noxious fumes (~250C). Then again, PTFE hotends aren't really a good idea anyway so that's not the filament's fault.This filament still works very well at lower temperatures - the end product just won't be as bulletproof.
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