|Item Weight||1.4 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||4.5 x 3 x 10.6 inches|
|Item model number||90195|
|Manufacturer Part Number||90195|
|OEM Part Number||90195|
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Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Control
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- A distinct, easy-to-read LCD display with multiple screen color options, displays in English, French or Spanish
- Diagnostics show output current, battery, brake, and output voltage and warning system alerts to No Trailer Brake situations
- Boost feature allows for different levels of customized braking, select Electric over Hydraulic or Electric trailer brake mode
- Integrated Plug-N-Play port for 2-plug adapters and Snap-in mounting clip allows user to remove and store the control when not in use
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This item Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Control
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|Item Dimensions||3 x 4.5 x 10.63 in||2.5 x 4.5 x 8.5 in||4.5 x 3 x 10.5 in||4 x 7 x 2 in||4 x 7 x 2 in||4 x 6.75 x 2 in|
5 storable setting options with preferences of multiple drivers, and for pulling different trailers up to 4 axles.
From the manufacturer
P3 the industries most advanced electric trailer brake control. A true proportional braking system, P3 has several added features, making it the new standard for electric trailer brake controls.
- 5 storable setting options for pulling different trailers or preferences of multiple drivers.
- A distinct, easy-to-read LCD display with multiple screen color options.
- Up-Front controls provide easy access to all P3 features.
- Easy to understand diagnostics show output current, battery, brake, and output voltage.
- A flashing red warning system alerts user to No Trailer Brake situations.
- Select Electric over Hydraulic or Electric trailer brake mode.
- Screen information display in English, French or Spanish.
- The Original Boost feature allows for different levels of customized braking.
- Compact, dash-hugging design.
- Integrated Plug-N-Play port for 2-plug adapters.
- Snap-in mounting clip allows user to remove and store the control when not in use.
- Electric trailer brake control for up to 4 braking axles.
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Top customer reviews
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(used to plug into factory installed wiring under dash)
My 2016 Ram 1500 Hemi Lonestar didn't come with the integrated brake controller. After searching all the RAM forums and studying Amazon reviews, I decided on Tekonsha P3 controller, and not to shell out the $440.00 my local dealership quoted to install the OEM. There's one video currently on YouTube that gives a breakdown how to remove the full length center console to install the OEM controller, but even then, you still have to have the dealer flash the computer so it all works together, and all the functions appear on the screen above the steering column. Some people are okay with this, but decided on the Tekonsha path myself.
I knew I wanted a clean, and minimally invasive install, so a little thought was needed to snug it up to my center console. In order to mount the controller, you have to have enough room to tighten the screws on either side. Instead, I used two very thin diameter toggle bolts I had left over, put them through the controller bracket with washers, screwed controller to the bracket, pushed the thin bolts through pre-drilled holes I made, and screwed the wings on from under the dash with some washers. This may not be the ideal way, but it worked great for me. All I can say is use this idea and improve upon it. :)
I might add before I started my project, I checked under the dash for the two factory installed connectors wrapped in foam tape. They're literally just hanging there and simple to find. This made it as easy as mount controller, plug n' play. Total install for me was about 30 minutes cause I was being careful.
After installing, it dawned on me there is no on / off switch. Back to the reviews and forums I went. Turns out there's controversy on this and weather it goes into a sleep mode or not. In my case, I checked 20 minutes later and the screen was blank as shown in picture. Starting the truck or touching a button wakes it up. Some reports from others is the opposite, and controller stays on. Either way, the power draw from the device is so little, it would take months to drain one's battery.
Setting up the controller for your trailer is pretty straight forward. As far as function, I'll be putting it to work next weekend for our 7,600 pound travel trailer. Just follow the directions, and you should be all good.
Hope this helps, and safe towing!
*** UPDATE ***
I can't think of a single complaint for this controller. Everything works in unison together as it should, and is easily adjustable. I included a picture we took on our way down to Galveston of the travel trailer when we stopped for a pee break. Gotta love Bucees!
I started with the boost on level 3, then turned it down to b2. It provides plenty of juice to the trailer brakes with the gain set where it's best for us now.
Consider this... The combine cost of your tow vehicle and trailer... The combine weight of your tow vehicle and trailer... The fact that your trailer may well weigh more than your tow vehicle... And that moron that just jumped in your lane then slammed on his brakes... This is NOT the time to think to yourself, "maybe I should've gotten a better brake controller." Seriously, when the difference in cost is under $100, is it really not worth buying the best?
I've used the Tekonsha P3 for two and half years now and I have nothing but praises to sing! Features, user friendliness, and results! This unit has it all. First lets talk about the mechanism. It uses a digital G-Sensor as apposed to a physical pendulem. Why is this a benifit? Because there are no downhill issues that you see with the physical and analog type sensors. Prior to digial sensors, the downhill slope would throw off the pendulem and the brake controller either would send a weaker current to the brakes or none at all. Some people have questioned the reliablity of digital sensors. But with more than 10 years of full production digital units, complaints are actaully less than the older analog units. Consider this as well, the sensor is not only quicker but more accurate as well, hard to soft braking is much safer now. How does it work? Just like any other accelerometor...it senses the volume deceleration and then computes an appropriate voltage and current to send to the trailer brakes based on a percentage of the user's max output setting.
Let's talk interface. A four button face with a roughly 1.5" LCD display plus a belly mounted manual switch. With no brakes connected, this unit will dispay the default "Tekonsha Screen". Once brakes are connected via the trailer plug, the unit will display the "Tow Screen". It has a large two/three read out that displays 0.0 as a default. While sitting still and once brake pressure is applied it will jump to approximately 10% of the max set output, after 3 seconds of being stationary it will move up to 25% power. This is designed to "hold" the trailer if stopped on an incline or decline. Setting the max brake power is a snap with the two "Up" and "Down" buttons on the left side of the face. The value moves up and down by 0.1 increments and quite quickly if you hold the button down. The last two buttons are "boost" and "page" which I will discuss when I talk features. The last button is the manual brake override. This bottom mounted spring loaded slider switch will manually add braking power to the trailer brakes (up to the user set max) even without depressing the vehicles brake peddle. This is a standard feature on all brake contorllers, but I wanted anyone looking for their first brake controller to understand what this was. Lastly, is the warning screen. It's a deep red screen with a trailer and a "no" sign. This indicates that the controller which had previously sensed brakes connected no longer can sense them. Generally an indication of a poor trailer connection at the wiring harness or a problem with the brakes themsleves.
Let's talk features. I've mentioned the "Boost" button, but what is it? There are 4 levels of boost for trailer brakes. Off, LV. 1, LV. 2, & LV. 3. Boost adds a brief (fraction of a second) burst to the trailer brakes which slows the trailer slightly more than the normal pressure would and keeps it from bumping or pushing the tow vehicle when brake pressure is initailly applied. Very important if as many are these days, your trailer weighs more than your tow vehicle. After the burst it returns the voltage and current to the G-sensors reccomended output. There isn't a real scientific method for figuring what you need to use. The picture on the home screen shows LV1 as small trailer, 2 as a med tailer, and 3 as a large trailer. My trailer is a 6K lb. TT and I just leave it on the default LV. 1 boost. Everytime the units is powered it returned to the default LV. 1. The unit will power down after 15 mins with no trailer connected AND no input from the brake signal wire. The "Page" button will take you to a second screen that you navigate with the "up", "down", and "Boost" (now "enter") buttons. This sceen has some cool features as some useful features. "Backlight" allows you to brighten or dim the brightness of the display. "Color" lets you set the color of the display. (Yeah I know, unessesary, but cool) The default color is "White" which is more of a light blue. There's also Magenta, Orange, Dk Blue, Violet, Lt. Green, and Dk. Green. Red is not availible as it's reserved as a warning color for the "no trailer connection" warning screen. Back to the page screen. There's also a VERY USEFUL troubleshooting screen. It lets you view diagnostics on the fly and over the road that can give you four digit readouts of battery voltage, stoplight (brake input signal) voltage, brake voltage, and brake current. This screen alone is worth the cost of this brake controller! When you first connect your tailer do some tests and record the max input you set, the output under normal braking conditions, as well as the brake voltage and amperage. If down the line you get the feeling the brakes aren't working properly, you can re-run this test and see if it's an electrical problem or not. Finally when your done, pressing the page button will return you to the "tow screen."
Installation. A snap for anyone that has a factory tow package. Tekonsha offers plug and play wiring harnesses that plug into most make and model years of trucks. If you have to have it installed or choose to install it yourself as I did, it can be challenging. But it's a simple four wire hookup. A 12V input from the battery (running thru a 30A auto reset breaker NOT a fuse), an output to the brake pin of your 6 or 7-way trailer connector, a stoplight input running to your vehicle's stoplight switch behind the brake peddle, and lastly a frame ground. The mount can be a little challenging to install because of the akward access to the screws, but it can be mounted at nearly any angle other than strait up or down and provided the face is facing a close to directly rearward as possible.
All in all, this is probably the most important review I've ever done. This controller will save you grief and keep you and your vehicle safe. Make sure for your safety, your families safety, and the safety of all those on the road you buy the brake controller that does it's job the best. Buy the Tekonsha P3.
Two years ago I droped my original P3 and cracked the screen. I decided to replace it no knowing if the internals might have been damaged. I don't feel the P3 is fragile.
The drop was an unforgiving freak bounce off my steel hitch and concrete. There are minor firmware differences between the 2009 model I had and the 2015 model I'm using.
The boot screen shows a P3 logo which is new. The diagnostics screen showing system voltages shows only tenth volt increments which used to be hundreths. But I can live without that.
Fuctionally they are the same and in my opinion still the best add on brake controller on the market. Propietary controllers and built in vehicle units may have it beat these days but I'll stick with my P3 until those in dash units are standard equipment.
One note. After years of use, the P3 does have an occasional quark. Sometimes when going down hill the brake power applied will be greater than on a flat road. (This has happened a couple of times on level roads as well but only rarely.) As you let off the brake the trailer will brake slightly heavier than the tow vehicle and when brake signal ceases the vehicle will jerk a bit as the trailer stops braking. The solution is to turn off the boost mode. But I caution drivers to turn this back on as soon as they're back on level surfaces. This is a safety feature to keep the trailer from pushing against the tow vehicle and thus not to loose control when braking. It promotes overall better braking performance and decreases the likelihood of jack-knifing.
After 8 years I'm still happy to put my faith and my family's safety in the Tekonsha P3.
Super easy to install
LCD screen makes setup easy
Can change the color and brightness of the LCD screen to match your interior lighting
Multiple mounting options
Simple menu-driven setup
Instructions were clear and easy to follow
Screen is impossible to read in bright sunlight, or with polarized sunglasses on