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Tokina AT-X PRO DX for digital SLR 11-20mm f/2.8 Pro DX Lens for Nikon F
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- F-Mount Lens/DX Format. 16.5-30mm (35mm Equivalent)
- Aperture Range: f/2.8 to f/22. P-MO & Glass-Molded Aspherical Elements
- Three SD Ultra-Low Dispersion Elements. Multi-Layer Lens Coatings
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|Sold By||TheCameraBox||Southtown Camera||6ave||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com|
|Compatible Camera Mount||Nikon DX||Nikon DX||Nikon DX||Nikon F||Canon EF||Nikon DX|
|Focus Type||Manual Focus||Autofocus||Ring-type ultrasonic||Autofocus||Manual Focus||Ring-type ultrasonic|
|Item Dimensions||3.50 x 3.50 x 3.62 inches||4.02 x 4.02 x 4.02 inches||3.46 x 3.43 x 3.43 inches||2.87 x 3.03 x 3.03 inches||3.50 x 3.50 x 3.62 inches||2.09 x 2.76 x 2.76 inches|
|Item Weight||1.23 lbs||1.21 lbs||1.15 lbs||0.51 lbs||1.20 lbs||7.05 ounces|
|Lens Type||Wide Angle||Wide Angle||Wide Angle||Wide Angle||Wide Angle||Standard|
|Maximum Aperture||f/2.8||2.8 millimeters||f/3.5||4.5 millimeters||2.8 millimeters||1.8|
|Maximum Focal Length||20||16 millimeters||20 millimeters||20||20||35 millimeters|
|Minimum Focal Length||11||11 millimeters||10 millimeters||10||11||35 millimeters|
|Photo Filter Thread Size||82 millimeters||77 millimeters||82 millimeters||72 millimeters||82 millimeters||52 millimeters|
A versatile wide-angle zoom for Nikon DX-format DSLRs, the AT-X 11-20mm f/2.8 PRO DX Lens from Tokina offers a 16.5-30mm equivalent focal length and features a constant f/2.8 maximum aperture for maintained brightness throughout the zoom range. One P-MO hybrid aspherical element and two glass-molded aspherical element work in tandem to minimize distortions and control various aberrations while three SD ultra-low dispersion elements reduce chromatic aberrations for increased clarity. A multi-layer lens coating has also been applied to further enhance overall light transmission and color accuracy by suppressing lens flare and ghosting. Well-suited to working in a wide variety of situations, this ultra-wide zoom covers an array of wide-angle perspectives while maintaining consistent illumination for working in challenging lighting. Benefitting the usability, a one-touch focusing clutch permits quick switching between autofocus and manual focus modes, and an internal focusing design maintains the overall length of the lens during use. The medium-torque focusing ring further benefits precise handling by allowing for refined control when manually focusing. Additionally, this lens sees the incorporation of a nine-blade diaphragm, which contributes to a pleasing out-of-focus quality when employing shallow depth of field shooting techniques. Compatible with Nikon DX-format DSLRs, this wide-angle zoom provides a 16.5-30mm equivalent focal length and features a constant f/2.8 maximum aperture for consistent low-light performance throughout the zoom range.
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When this lens came out, I felt it was time to part with the 12-28, and get back to a faster and wider lens. It is nice to have the faster aperture and still have a reasonable zoom range. The lens has been very good so far, with some things improved and a couple of things I would consider a little worse. I am shooting with the D7100 currently (and D810 - see below for opinion on use with FX).
The lens is very, very sharp, in much the same way that the 11-16 was. Build quality is superb, and the zoom ring feels just right - not too stiff, not too loose. I am neutral to the manual focus clutch operation. It works fine, but is really no better or worse than using a switch. Focus is adequately fast and locks on positively, with no hunting. And lens flare has been reduced by a lot! Neither the 11-16 or the 12-28 handled flare well, but this new lens is night and day better in this regard. Very little visible flare on several shots I have intentionally tried to get it. The added zoom range is a very nice feature and makes the lens more versatile.
I did mention there were some negatives compared to its older cousins: There is more fringing with this lens than with either of the other two I previously owned. Even stopped down, the purple and green fringing in high contrast edges is fairly pronounced. I would recommend using Lightroom, or other software to correct chromatic abberation and fringing. I'm sure once there is a lens profile in Lightroom, it will be even easier to correct. I can make the shots look just fine with very little effort, even without a profile. The corners look to be a little bit softer further into the image with the 11-20, and stay just a tad soft even stopped down. But we're talking the very extreme corners once you get around f5 or so. Wide open, more of the corner area is slightly smeared and soft, and some slight vignetting is noticeable, too. The 11-16 did a little better, but I feel this is an acceptable trade-off since we now have more zoom range to work with. The lens uses 82mm filters, which may be a drawback to some, but is not an issue for me, as I already have another lens that uses them (Tamron 24-70 VC).
I wanted to give some information on use of this lens with a full frame camera, since I also own and use one, and actually used my other Tokina lenses on the D810 and my previous D700. The 11-16 would work just fine from 15-16 mm, with the only requirement being to remove the lens hood at 15mm. 16mm was usable even with the hood in place. The 12-28 worked from 20mm to 28mm, with 20-21mm needing the hood removed. The 11-20 is also able to be used on FX, with the usable range being 18-20. Won't go as wide as the old 11-16. And if soft and somewhat vignetted corners are OK, 17mm also works (barely) without the lens hood. I'd recommend the lens hood stay off for anything other than 20mm use, and even then, you would do better to leave it off if possible. One thing to note is that no shot taken on a full frame camera will be as sharp in the corners as the DX ones will be. I've noticed that even though the image circle gets big enough for the FX sensor by 17mm or so, the far corners stay soft and smeared even at 20mm. Stopping down helps very little here. It is still nice that it can be used with both my cameras, though, and I have already taken some really nice looking 36mp shots with the 11-20 on my D810. I'm sure that 1.2x crop mode on the D810 will increase the usability and performance since the worst part of the image is cropped off. I plan to test that out as well, I just don't see the point in shooting 25MP with the D810 when I have 24MP already, and full use of the zoom, with my D7100. High ISO shooting is the only scenario I can see any meaningful advantage.
Overall, this is a nice lens to own, and I am glad to have it. It improves on the 12-28, and is just as good or better in most regards as the 11-16 was, with few compromises. If you are looking for an ultra-wide lens, this one is definitely recommended. Tokina makes a great lens for the price, and this one is no exception. Would give it 4.5 stars if possible, but can't quite give it 5 since there are some very minor issues. I think anyone with high expectations would be more than satisfied with the results.
Edit, June 16, 2015: I have a better understanding of the use of this lens on FX cameras, now that I have done more shooting with the D810 and Tokina 11-20 combination. I would now recommend the focal length be set at 16mm (and no lens hood), even if you don't need it that wide for the shot. After inspecting images at focal lengths from 15-20mm, it looks like the 16mm setting is the best one to use. 16mm is the point where there is just about zero vignetting. Interestingly, the corners are about as soft at 16mm as they are at 20mm. They really get no better as you zoom in, as I mentioned in the initial review. That is why I say shoot at 16mm and crop off whatever is not sharp enough. You will end up with the most usable image this way. You will find that you must crop off a similar amount from a 20mm shot, leaving you with less to work with. I have added 2 images to my review. The canyon shot was taken with the D810 at 16mm (and not cropped) and the river shot is a D7100 shot at 11mm. Pretty impressive sharpness when used on either camera...you just must crop the full frame shot for edge-to-edge sharpness.
This is my first non-Nikkor lens and I am pleasently surprised by the quality. To be frank, I was expecting less.
I love this lens its much smaller and lighter than the the Nikon. I shoot mostly with a Nikon D7200 operating out of the hard bags on my motorcycle. So far the lens travels well, no issues.
Pros: Image sharpness is stunning. No color aberration that I could detect at any stop or zoom. Smaller, lighter, and cheaper than the big Nikon. Low light performance is good.
Cons: More prone to lens flare than the Nikon, the hood is smaller, aggravating the flare issue. When under flare conditions or shooting into direct sunlight, the auto-focus may be tricky. More distortion toward the edges than the Nikon, but this lens is wider. At the time of writing Adobe Lightroom (my tool of choice) doesn't have the Lens Correction filter for this Tokina yet, but does for the Nikon, so may not be a fair comparison.
Pros here FAR outweigh the cons, in my opinion. I've used both, I've lugged that big Nikon all over the country, and am glad to have this lighter cousin in my kit. I would buy this lens again in a heartbeat.
I have attached some photos I've taken with this lens. All samples have been post processed with Lightroom, but it will give you get the idea of the cameras capabilities and sharpness.
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I guess Tokina has a quality control problem despite it's made in Japan. The lens definitely seems well built and I will order it again if Tokina manages to resolve the issues.
En un principio compre el Tokina 11-16 2.8 y que tuve que devolver por problemas de enfoque, al solicitar el reemplazo por este 11-20 2.8 me ha llegado sin problemas y el enfoque es muy preciso. Si te ocurre lo mismo, no vas a tener problemas gracias al excelente servicio que te da amazon. Pero gracias a ello he podido probar ambos objetivos y comentar que el 11-20 distorsiona ligeramente (poco), pero lo puedes corregir en postproducción.
Por último, comentar que si vais a ponerle algún filtro deben ser filtros especiales para angulares de tipo "slim" que son algo mas delgados de lo normal, para que no viñetee y salgan en el encuadre. Además le añades que el objetivo tiene un diametro de filtro de 82mm, pues se reducen las opciones a marcas de filtros de marca con alta calidad como Hoya o Kenko. Pero es recomendable proteger la lente debido a su tamaño y a lo corto del parasol por ser angular.
About the lens: I use it for Nikon D5300. Effective focal length would be 16.5mm to 30mm. It has manual focus ring with infinity marking. That was really helpful while shooting night sky. It's really sharp and fast.
I was struggling with auto focusing some nearby objects. I guess I have to get along with the lens more.
I'm satisfied with the product.
Optically this lens is great however, gives beautiful wide shots. It does not have many feasible alternatives in this price range, so can be used despite the backfocus problems. If you use it in CDAF (focusing in live view LCD, CDAF stands for Contrast Detect AF), you get sharp focus. But if you use PDAF (focusing in the viewfinder, Phase Detect AF), will get blurry images. Have ruined many images. I suggest you use CDAF initially where possible, and practice till you are good at estimating distances for manual focus, after which you can use this lens in manual focus, retro style. For landscapes and skyscapes, you just need to know where on the focus ring the lens focuses at far distances and infinity, and have a slightly small aperture to have deep depth of field. When used in bright light for distant landscapes at f/8 or smaller, the focus issues don't really matter. It is for close subjects and at f/2.8 (which is the selling point of this lens), that photos get ruined because focus is farther back than where it should be. Correcting it through Nikon's AF fine adjustment does not help much because the degree of backfocus keeps changing with zoom and focus distance. If you google for it, will find dozens of forum posts and reviews indicating the same problem.
The manual advises using the central focus point as apparently wide lenses don't work well with outer focus points (not true in my Olympus lenses, that work perfectly with any focus points). But even with the advised central focus point, get bad backfocus. Tokina has done a disservice to the glass by such poor focusing electronics.
If you are okay using CDAF, or are skilled at focusing manually, or are generally going to use it for bright landscapes (rather than in-your-face street photography), then this lens is great, and the price is worth the glass.
Bei Offenblende werden die Ränder zwar kontrastarm und unscharf, bleibt aber alles im Rahmen. Ab f5.6 wird es dann auch an den Rändern besser.
Fokussieren an meiner Nikon D5500 geht schnell. Nur leider trifft der Fokus nie. Kein Bild war scharf. Erst wenn ich manuell nach vorne nachfokussiert habe, war das Zentrum detailliert (Umschalten auf m. Fokus hakt hin und wieder). Habe es bei Tageslicht und Kunstlicht probiert mit Auslöser und Stativ. Immer wieder Back Focus. Da die Nikon D5500 dies nicht kompensieren kann, geht das Objektiv zurück. Sonst wäre es für den Preis ein sehr günstiges und scharfes UWW geworden.
Nachtrag: Auch ein zweites Objektiv, was ich bei Amazon bestellt habe, hat einen BF aufgezeigt. Es ist schwierig ein tadelloses Gerät zu bekommen. An sich ist das Objektiv echt klasse, wenn man manuell fokussiert.
Nachtrag: Nummer 3 sitzt nun endlich. Damit bin ich nun sehr zufrieden. Habe ein scharfes UWW, was auch noch lichtstark ist und unter 600 Euro zu bekommen ist. Aber ein Objektiv zu finden, wo der AF sitzt, scheint pures Glück zu sein. Statt 2 Sterne gebe ich 4. Einen Stern Abzug für die schlechte Qualitätskontrolle bei Tokina und die schlechte Gegenlichtblende, die sich nur mit Gewalt auf- und absetzen lässt.
Das erste Bild ist gegen das Licht mit f2.8 aufgenommen. Das zweite mit f7.1. Die Schärfe zieht sich nun bis in den Rand.
Die Flares halten sich im Rahmen.
Das dritte ist ebenfalls mit Blende f7.1 fotografiert worden. Man sieht das Stop-Schild links sehr detailliert. Zumindest im Original. Daher als viertes Bild der linke Randbereich von Bild 3 vergrößert.
Se nota bastante aberración cromática en los bordes, y también oscurece ("viñetea") un poco. Pero se corrige sin problema con el software, o sea que para mí no es problema.
El anterior a parte de imperfecciones esteticas (una marca en la lente la mas destacable) tenia algo de backfocus. Este, lo que he podido probar, esta perfecto.
En comparativa de precio con otros productos similares (angulares de mismo rango de otras marcas) este merece la pena (bien es cierto que lo adquirí de seguna mano y con una promocion del 20%, casi un 50% del precio si fuera nuevo).
Calidad de la imagen y nitidez, me parece perfecto (con lo poco que lo he podido probar aun).