|Item Weight||1.88 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||1 x 2.8 x 25.2 inches|
|Item model number||6146L|
|Manufacturer Part Number||6146L|
Qty (2) L&R Toyota Celica ,GT, GTS 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Hatch Lift Supports with OEM Spoiler & Rear Wiper
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- STRONG ARM LIFT SUPPORTS 6146L LIFT SUPPORT
- Strong Arm lift supports are sold as single item and not in pairs. The part 6146L would be for the left side and you would need to have the corresponding 6146R for the right side
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Parts Master Strongarm 6146l Strong Arm Lift Support - Toyota, Celica , 2000-04 Hatch , - W/ Medium Spoiler
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-The lift supports themselves seem to be made of good, sturdy materials, and came with new mounting hardware. Once properly installed they work well enough. However, I did have a slight problem with the first set I was sent. The units were factory labeled left and right, but the right unit was actually another left side unit that had been mislabeled. You can tell if you place them side by side and look at the mounting plate with two holes. If they are mislabeled, the mounting plates will be the same: check for the letter stamped on the plate. Mine had an "A" stamped on both, and I knew I had two left side units. You have to have an "A" stamped on one, and a "B" stamped on the other. I notified the seller, and they practically fell over themselves to get me a brand new set ASAP, with no-charge return shipping for the first set. The second set was labeled correctly, there was a "B" stamped on the right unit this time, and I knew I was good to go.
-The new supports were a breeze to install, but getting the old ones off was WAY more trouble than it should have been. That was Toyota's responsibility, and they definitely did not do a good job of thinking ahead about replacement of worn out items. Hatch supports can't last forever, and you can't replace parts you can't get off!
-You MUST heat the swivel head bolts attached to the sides of the rear hatch, or the thread locking compound will not release. (I tried!) The lighter trick will work, but be advised you should probably plan on doing this whole process indoors. I was forced to work outside when it was windy, and the lighter flame kept blowing out! I could only put a few seconds of heat on it at a time, and quickly got frustrated. I had to cut through the bolt to separate the old lift support, because it was acting like a big heat sink. I couldn't get enough heat on the bolt itself, and I rounded one side quite a bit before it finally started to give. As a heat shield for the paint above the bolt, I just used folded aluminum foil. Protect the paint or you may end up scorching it badly while heating the stubborn bolt.
-Do NOT install these without some way of holding the hatch up while you are working! I noticed when I was tightening the lower mounting plate bolts that in order to see where they were going I had to place my head directly under the hatch, and the side of the body was directly below my throat. If the hatch had closed suddenly I could have been in a lot of trouble. You can prop the hatch open and work from outside, or I suppose if you removed the tilting package tray you could even work from the back seat. Make sure it's secure and think safety first!
-At the time I'm writing this, it's been pretty cold outside for quite a while. The rear hatch goes up, but the lift speed is definitely linked to the outside temperature. The colder it is, the slower it rises. I consider that normal, although it is annoying to wait on it at times. At least it always lifts UP now, all on its own, instead of doing nothing like the old units. They offer plenty of resistance when closing the hatch even with the cold, so I think warmer weather would show an improvement.
UPDATE January 2012: I have had these on for quite a while now, and have to say I'm more than a little disappointed with them. Warmer weather helped some, but it always seemed they had to struggle to raise the hatch, and now they are almost at the point of completely failing. They have no upward motion at all; I always have to lift it hard to get it to open. The only good thing is that it stays open once it is raised by force. I'm basically back where I started with the bad OEM struts. These new ones were cheaper, but they never performed like I hoped they would. **sigh**
Excellent design compared to Toyota's supplier.
The new lifts fit perfectly and include a new set of balljoint bolts.
This balljoints are made of higher quality metal than Toyota originally used.
When its time to replace them, the struts can be easily removed using a flat head screwdriver.
#The following are tips for removing the original lifts and not a review of the product
Securely prop up the hatch or have a friend hold it up.
Place some automotive tape in the appropriate places to protect the paint.
Using a crescent wrench, remove the two lower bolts
Heat the ball joint bolt with a lighter or heat gun briefly to weaken the locktite on the threads of the bolt, taking care not to damage the paint or any seals, a few seconds should do the trick.
Unscrew the ball joint bolt using a crescent wrench.
The bolt is made of very cheap and soft metal, so make sure you use the correct wrench or you'll strip the bolt with one turn of the wrench.
If for some reason you end up with a stripped bolt, use a hacksaw blade or dremel to cut the ball joint from the bolt.
From there you can use vice grips to remove the bolt.
Follow the manufacturers included instructions to install the new lifts.
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Perfect fit for my 2001 Toyota Celica!Read more
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