- Series: How To Climb Series
- Paperback: 408 pages
- Publisher: Falcon Guides; First edition (February 18, 2014)
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: 0762783729
- ISBN-13: 978-0762783724
- Product Dimensions: 7.5 x 1 x 9.2 inches
- Shipping Weight: 2.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
- Average Customer Review: 21 customer reviews
- Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #650,465 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
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Trad Climber's Bible (How To Climb Series) Paperback – February 18, 2014
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“There's no substitute for experience. The Trad Climber's Bible captures two lifetimes of experience through classic essays of personal adventure and to-the-point anecdotes per lessons learned. Not your average how-to book!”—Kevin Jorgeson, professional climber and veteran of the Dawn Wall Project, El Capitan, Yosemite, a.k.a. "The Hardest Climb Never Done"
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If you are looking for a reference manual go get Freedom of the Hills and one of the many books on anchors.... then buy this book anyway. you wont regret it.
Here you have two guys, both decades-and-decades-seasoned, who have done this stuff non-stop (okay, Long screwed around with unicycles and poodle breeding off and on, granted) for a long time, who can also both think and write about it in an instructive and entertaining way. Yes, for those who have been reading climbing stories for a while, there's a good deal of recycled John Long material in here - in spades (heh heh). But even with that, and even if the John Long style is beginning to wear on you a little after so many years, it hasn't been used in this way before. So it has value and it is welcome. Even better is that Croft's writing is well show cased here and there's plenty of it. His ability with the pen has been under rated and under utilized in my opinion, so enjoy this treasure trove. Be on the lookout for Peter's knack for pointing readers to the soul behind a story.
If you have little trad knowledge and experience, you're still going to want the more how-to kind of books about anchor building, gear placement, dynamics of falls, etc. There are plenty of those. You're also gonna want some instruction and mentoring probably. These guys had less opportunity for that in their day. The beauty of this book is you get to learn from their near misses, successes, and "failures". If you have a bunch of trad experience, get this book too. There are good nuggets and good healthy-perspective reinforcers in here.
I rate it five stars. I almost deducted three stars because of that thing on John Long's head in the author photo, but oh well, it's him I guess. Get this book. There isn't another one like it and there won't be another like it.
When I bought the book I expected each essay to delve into the technical aspects of the specific climb that the author did i.e. how did the author plan the logistics, what gear did he take, key learning with specific details, key judgement calls with details. The book does not cover any of this. The short stories and essays are only briefly talk about the climb itself and instead explains in great details how awesome climbers the authors are. John Long and Peter Croft are legendary climbers and they definitely did not need this book to prove it.