VertaMax 3000 Watt (6000W surge) 12V Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter DC to AC Car, Solar, Off-Grid, RV
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- Includes VertaMax 3000W (6000W surge) Pure Sine Wave Inverter
- The VertaMax Pure Sine Wave 3000 has 3 grounded AC outlets (115 AC for USA household devices). Also includes a hard wired terminal block for permanent AC connections (see photo gallery for more info.)
- LED Display shows DC battery voltage and Watts (AC power consumption). Monitor power usage.
- 1 year warranty. Reliable design with thermal shutdown, reverse polarity protection via internal fuses, short circuit protection, over-voltage protection, low voltage shutdown, and low/high voltage alarm.
- Typical examples of appliances that can be powered by this inverter: computers, televisions, video game consoles, cell phone chargers, microwaves, air conditioners,etc.
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The WindyNation VertaMax 3000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter converts 12 volt DC battery power to an exact replica of pure sine wave AC household power. Pure Sine Wave Inverters are recommend for sensitive electronic equipment that requires pure sine wave AC electricity to operate properly.
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The built in digital meter: I am pretty sure the meter displays Volt-Amps, and not Watts. The manual talks about watts, but this is likely because most readers do not know the difference, and watts is a more familiar term.
The voltage and power LED display works but is not as precise as the photos would imply. There are 4 digits on the display. When reading DC Volts, ALL four digits light up, however, the LAST digit is ALWAYS ZERO. So it only indicated 0.1 volt resolution. Seems sufficient, but if the digit is there, why waste it? When reading WATTS, again, the last digit will ALWAYS read ZERO, so power is measured in 10 (VA) watt increment.
People have pointed out that when powered on, with a small load, the meter shows ZERO. Well that is why. If the power is < 10 VA (maybe 5 if it rounds), the meter will show zero. When I was testing using the hair dryer, I compared the built in watt reading to the Kill-a-Watt. At high loads, the built in meter was within 10-20 VA. Even small loads were typically within the 10 VA resolution. So don't expect "exact" readings, but it is fairly accurate.
I think it is a plus that it shows VA, since that is the "real" load that the inverter sees. Watts are only important (at least for me) because that is how power consumption is (typically) charged. But the power factor of your load and its VA consumption is what you want to know before connecting to the inverter. For instance, a window fan may be rated for 100 Watts, but really consumes 145 VA because the PF of the motor load is 0.69.
There is one safety issue with the inverter that concerns me.There is a very large choke that filters the high frequency components out of the PWM AC output. You can see it through the bottom cover air grill. It is EXTREMELY close to the METAL grate. We are talking maybe 1/4" space (at least on mine). That choke has 120VAC on it. Granted, the choke windings have a resin insulation coating, but with enough pressure in the wrong spot, it could seriously short and blow something, maybe even shock someone touching the case, or something plugged into it with a ground. I'm not even sure if a GFCI installed externally would catch that. The manufacturer should really put some kind of separator between the bottom cover and the choke. I opened mine up and put a few zip ties around the choke to prevent the cover from making contact. Actually it was a good thing I did, because the choke is held to the circuit board by one zip tie, and mine was broken. So while I was in there, I replaced it and secured in properly.
For anyone contemplating installing this in a boat, or in a humid environment. The circuit boards are NOT coated, so I would not recommend using in those situations, of if you do, don't expect it to last.
For the really technically inclined. There are two circuit boards inside the inverter. The first and largest, is (I think) a regular modified sine wave inverter. This feeds a high voltage source to a pulse width modulated (PWM) Sine Wave converter. It takes the input voltage, and pulsed in at a very high frequency, at various duty cycles, to produce the true sine wave output. The choke I mentioned earlier is used to filter out the high frequency switching components of the pulse width modulation. This make me curious, so I went on eBay, and found similar circuits available prefabricated and as kits. I think these would let you take a modified sine inverter and make it into a true sine wave inverter. COOL.
I also don't get that annoying buzz from the TV's speakers like you get from a modified-sine wave inverter.
The biggest thing you have to remember is the MASSIVE amount of amperage this will draw on the 12 volt side when you're using it. I have it wired with dual-runs of 1/0 welding cable, two for the positive and two for the negative, directly to the truck's batteries so that I don't get a large voltage drop when I run the microwave. or tea kettle.
I love it.
My title says most of it.
That WindyNation (the seller) pretty much just deals with inverters and solar is great.
The manual is super detailed and very accurate. It's not "Chinglish" writing.
I also bought the 1/0 wire+lugs+shrink-tube kit from WindyNation in order to connect this to my battery. That kit is great too.
I actually mounted this under the hood of my truck so I could minimize the run length of DC wires and instead have the longer runs (e.g. to the cab and rear bed) be with regular AC wires (extension cords) since the AC wires are less lossy over distances.