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Charles Phan

Jessica Battilana

Vietnamese Home Cooking: [A Cookbook] Hardcover – September 25, 2012

by Charles Phan (Author)

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In his eagerly awaited first cookbook, award-winning chef Charles Phan from San Francisco's Slanted Door restaurant introduces traditional Vietnamese cooking to home cooks by focusing on fundamental techniques and ingredients.

When Charles Phan opened his now-legendary restaurant, The Slanted Door, in 1995, he introduced American diners to a new world of Vietnamese food: robustly flavored, subtly nuanced, authentic yet influenced by local ingredients, and, ultimately, entirely approachable. In this same spirit of tradition and innovation, Phan presents a landmark collection based on the premise that with an understanding of its central techniques and fundamental ingredients, Vietnamese home cooking can be as attainable and understandable as American, French, or Italian.

With solid instruction and encouraging guidance, perfectly crispy imperial rolls, tender steamed dumplings, delicately flavored whole fish, and meaty lemongrass beef stew are all deliciously close at hand. Abundant photography detailing techniques and equipment, and vibrant shots taken on location in Vietnam, make for equal parts elucidation and inspiration. And with master recipes for stocks and sauces, a photographic guide to ingredients, and tips on choosing a wok and seasoning a clay pot, this definitive reference will finally secure Vietnamese food in the home cook’s repertoire.

Infused with the author’s stories and experiences, from his early days as a refugee to his current culinary success, Vietnamese Home Cooking is a personal and accessible guide to real Vietnamese cuisine from one of its leading voices.

Print length

256 pages
Language

English
Publisher

Ten Speed Press
Publication date

September 25, 2012
Dimensions

8.79 x 1.1 x 10.81 inches
ISBN-10

1607740532
ISBN-13

978-1607740537
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Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

Featured Recipe: Sichuan Cucumber Pickles

These quick pickles need to sit in vinegar for only a few hours before you can eat them. They're great with fried items, since the inegar acts as a sort of palate cleanser. But the ginger, Sichuan peppercorns, and sambal oelek—a prepared red chile paste that is readily available at most grocery stores—make them different than the standard cucumber pickle.

1 pound English cucumbers, halved lengthwise and cut on the diagonal into -inch-thick slices
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely julienned
1 to 2 fresh Thai chiles, stemmed, seeded, and julienned
4 cups rice vinegar
1¼ cups sugar
1½ teaspoons sambal chile paste, also known as sambal oelek
½ cup toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns
¼ cup whole dried red chiles, such as árbol

In a bowl, toss together the cucumber slices and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Transfer the cucumbers to a colander and let drain in the sink for 2 hours.

Rinse the cucumbers briefly under cold running water and drain well. Transfer to a bowl, add the ginger and fresh Thai chiles, and toss to mix. In a separate bowl, stir together the vinegar, sugar, sambal, and the remaining 2 tablespoons salt until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Set aside.

In a small frying pan, heat the sesame oil over medium heat. Add the Sichuan peppercorns and toast for 10 seconds. Add the dried chiles and toast for 10 seconds longer, until the chiles darken slightly.

Pour the contents of the frying pan over the cucumbers, then add the vinegar solution and toss well. Let cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate. The pickles are ready to eat in 2 hours. They will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

Review

Winner, IACP Awards 2013-Chefs and Restaurants

Charles Phan’s Vietnamese Home Cooking captures the very heart of Vietnamese food: fresh, pure, full of life, and vibrant with flavor. His beautiful pictures, stories, and recipes make it completely irresistible.
—Alice Waters, chef, author, and proprietor of Chez Panisse

The great appeal of Charles Phan’s cooking at The Slanted Door has always been its vivid purity of flavor. It isn’t necessarily simple food, but there’s not a soupçon of trickery or gratuitous filigree involved. In his long-awaited, warmly written first cookbook, Phan reveals the secrets of his approach to the great and varied food of his native Vietnam.
—Colman Andrews, editorial director of TheDailyMeal.com

A truly magical and illuminating journey into the cooking of Vietnam, with recipes so thoroughly brilliant they will not only allow you to better understand the cuisine of that country, but they will also make you a better cook, Asian or otherwise.
—James Oseland, editor-in-chief of Saveur, author of Cradle of Flavor

Like the best cooking is, Charles Phan’s food is deceivingly complex. With this book, Charles shows you how to unravel that code and make delicious Vietnamese food at home.
—David Chang, chef/owner of Momofuku

About the Author

Charles Phan is the executive chef and owner of The Slanted Door family of restaurants, and the author of IACP award-winning book, Vietnamese Home Cooking. He received the James Beard Award for Best Chef California in 2004, and in 2011, was inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food in America. He lives in San Francisco with his wife and their three children.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

When I was a kid, a cook would set up a green canvas army tent behind my family’s general store in Ðà Lat. He made only one dish: crispy egg noodles with seafood. I would go there frequently after school (we lived over the store) while I was waiting for my parents to finish work. I’d sit on a low stool waiting for my order, listening to the sizzle of liquid hitting the hot wok and the monsoon rains battering the tent, the air thick with the smell of browning noodles. It’s one of my first food memories.
Vietnam is full of snackers who are never far from a quick bite. Because the country is lacking in entry-level jobs, and because there is a huge market for food cooked outside the home (most home kitchens are poorly equipped or very cramped), people start their own ad hoc businesses, including food stalls. The entrepreneurial spirit drives cooks to the streets, where they master the art of making a single dish: sticky rice, banana fritters, green papaya salad. The cooks employ every technique—deep-frying in jury-rigged pots set over open fires, stir-frying in big woks over high flames, steaming in giant lidded bamboo baskets balanced atop rickety propane burners—to make snacks that are served and eaten on the spot. Even talented home cooks don’t make these dishes at home. Yes, space is at a premium, but an attitude persists too: why try to make something at home that you can so easily and cheaply purchase from someone who has perfected the recipe? Since we don’t have the luxury of a steamed-bun vendor or stand on every corner here in the United States, making these snacks at home is the only option.
Unlike the subsequent chapters in this book, which explain a single technique, the unifying element of the recipes in this chapter is that they’re some of the most popular foods that you’ll find sold from stalls in cities and small towns throughout Vietnam.
Street food offers a direct connection between the cook and the eater. Part of what makes the food so appealing is that it’s superfresh. You’re literally watching the dishes being made, start to finish, in front of your eyes. It is Vietnam’s answer to fast food, only it is far more interesting, varied, and well prepared.
Unlike a full-service restaurant, street vendors usually make only one or two items. That means they’ve spent their entire careers perfecting their recipe, customizing their equipment, sourcing the best ingredients. After trying an excellent bite from a vendor, I’ve often asked for the recipe. Not a single cook has ever given me one. The recipe, and the practiced technique, is as much a commodity as the food they’re selling you.
The three common denominators that help identify the best vendors: they’re usually stationary, serve a single dish or one ingredient prepared in a few different ways, and they’re always crowded.
In Vietnam, the foods you buy from street vendors aren’t categorized as hors d’oeuvres, appetizers, or main courses, though some items are traditionally served at certain times of the day. Rice porridge (page 20) and soup are found in the morning and are rarely eaten after lunch. Sweets stalls might open for only a few hours each evening. A soup vendor might pop up for a few hours during the morning commute, then pack up until the next day.
We serve many of the recipes in this chapter at The Slanted Door, where they’re some of the most popular items on the menu. Those favored Vietnamese street foods inspired the first dishes we served when we opened in 1995, and they have remained on the menu ever since. Some, like the fresh spring rolls (page 44), are easy. Others, like the filled rice-paper packets called (page 62), require some practice to perfect. As the Vietnamese vendors know well, mastery comes only from repetition. I think you’ll find the flavors so compelling that the labor will be worth it. Once you get the hang of a few of these recipes, you’ll probably find yourself making them a lot. Without the chaos, the heat, and the noise, it’ll never be exactly like eating on the streets of Vietnam, but the food will still be delicious.

Pickled Carrots

These quick pickles are the perfect foil for rich foods. They are often served alongside fried things and are always piled on top of meat-filled bánh mì sandwiches. If you like, use julienned daikon (see page 204) in addition to carrots.

• ¼ cup distilled white vinegar
• ¼ cup sugar
• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
• ½ cup peeled and finely julienned carrots

Makes ½ cup

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt and stir until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Add the carrots and let stand for at least 20 minutes before serving. If not using right away, cover and refrigerate for up to a week. Drain the carrots well before before using.

Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ Ten Speed Press; NO-VALUE edition (September 25, 2012)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 256 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1607740532
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1607740537
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 3.25 pounds
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 8.79 x 1.1 x 10.81 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #70,568 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #10 in Vietnamese Cooking, Food & Wine
- #13 in Southeast Asian Cooking, Food & Wine
- #502 in Celebrity & TV Show Cookbooks

Customer Reviews:
492 ratings

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Charles Phan
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Charles Phan is the award-winning Executive Chef and Owner of San Francisco's The Slanted Door and 6 other restaurants. He is considered to be the inventor of modern Vietnamese cuisine in the United States.
Born in Da Lat, Vietnam in 1962, Charles and his family - parents and five siblings - relocated to Guam just before the fall of Saigon. They spent two years on Guam before settling in San Francisco in 1977.
Always having had a passion for food, Charles opened his first restaurant, The Slanted Door, on Valencia Street in San Francisco's Mission District in 1995. It was an immediate popular and critical success. The restaurant played a significant role in the revitalization of this vibrant area.
In 2004, the nationally acclaimed, The Slanted Door, became one of the principal tenants of San Francisco's historic Ferry Building and was instrumental in developing this landmark into one of the country's premier food destinations.
That year, he also won the James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef of California and in 2011 was inducted into the foundation's Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America.
Since then, Phan has opened six successful restaurants, all located in San Francisco, a city with a famously vibrant food scene. His enduring vision to showcase farm-fresh, locally sourced ingredients and prepare everything from scratch has kept The Slanted Door Group of restaurants on the forefront of San Francisco's dining scene.
Charles' first book, VIETNAMESE HOME COOKING, hopes to inspire readers to make interesting, fast, flavorful and healthy Vietnamese dishes in their home kitchens. The book won an IACP award in 2012.
His second cookbook, THE SLANTED DOOR, offers one hundred recipes of modern Vietnamese food, cocktail and dessert. The book comes at the right time to celebrate James Beard Award's Outstanding Restaurant in May 2014 and its 20th anniversary in November.
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Jessica Battilana
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Jessica Battilana writes the "Repertoire" column for the San Francisco Chronicle and is the author of Corn, from Short Stack Editions. The coauthor of several other cookbooks, her work has appeared in Martha Stewart Living, the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Gastronomica, Saveur, Sunset, and multiple editions of The Best Food Writing. A Vermont native, she lives in San Francisco with her wife and children.
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Customer reviews

4.6 out of 5

492 global ratings

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4 star		16%
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A wealth of information in this great Vietnamese cookbook

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on October 9, 2012

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If you feel a bit overwhelmed when you venture into an Asian market and would like to change that feeling, this book will be immensely helpful to you. The book is overflowing with information, and I love a cookbook written to include such helpful insight, instruction and coaching.

I am a sponge for new cooking techniques and new ingredients. I was born in the U. S. and my first language is English. I'm of Polish decent. I've been interested in Asian cooking for about four years now. I cook all kinds of dishes, but we really love fresh fish, oriental greens and the unique flavors found in Asian recipes. We love the simplicity of the dishes and we love the contrasts of salty, sweet, tangy and good Texas jasmine rice. Our winter garden is currently full--really full--of Asian greens and veggies. And with that said: I think this is a great cookbook. I've used it over and over again--in just the short few months I've owned it.

So, while I can't speak for someone born in Vietnam and relocated here and I can't speak for someone who has a Vietnamese Grandmother on which to rely, I can speak for a majority of those looking at this review and wondering whether to buy this book or not: You will learn a lot from this cookbook, and you will be happy you bought it (or proud you gave it as a present). Use it as a reference book; use it for its recipes; enjoy the pictures; delight in the way the author coaxes all of your senses to blossom; take it with you to your favorite Asian grocery store and smile a lot and nod your head while you refer to it as you search out ingredients, (yes, take it with you instead of just a grocery list and spread the word.)

The author went at this cookbook venture with the intent to teach. And I'm here to say he taught me quite a lot; and thank you so much! This cookbook is not only filled with wonderful, enticing, not overwhelming recipes; it is filled with information. You will get helpful and unbiased wisdom on: Woks, ceramic pots, cleavers, grills, how to choose condiments and important ingredients, and much more.

If you are considering this cookbook and live out in the middle of nowhere, with no access to an Asian market, you may want to check this out of your library before purchase.

The recipes are divided between techniques: Steaming, frying, braising, grilling, and stir-frying; plus soup and street food. There are recipes for condiments, dipping sauces and a few pickles.

Personally, I now have precise times for steaming my whole fish; assurance that I'm grilling my whole fish in the best way possible; I have great fillings for steamed buns; I know how to prime my wok properly and for how long to let the oil heat up before adding food; I know the importance of caramel sauce, and much, much more. I've always loved a broth-y fish soup and now I have a beautiful and simple recipe using a whole fish--and I already know I will turn to it often. Because I personally zone in on whole fish in this paragraph, don't let me mislead you into thinking this is a seafood cookbook; it's really encompassing and covers beef, pork, other seafood, rice, noodles and veggies.

It's got beautiful pictures; easy-to-read and easy-to-understand ingredient lists and concise directions; a terrific glossary; an adequate index, plus it is a bound, hard-covered book, with pages made of quality paper.

The author mentions his family and his restaurants frequently, but those mentions don't seem overpowering, they just add to the charm of the writing.

Not that I'm ready to compare it with other Asian cookbooks, I can already say that this is more of a hands-on, take-it-and-cook-with-it book, than "Beyond the Great Wall" and "Hot Sour Salty Sweet' by Alford and Duguid. (While I love those two, they slant more towards coupling recipes with an area and therefore seem a bit travel-related and coffee-table style).

I'm very glad to have purchased this cookbook.

93 people found this helpful

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beth

Home cooking with a commitment

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 24, 2013

Verified Purchase

So, I bought this book because it covers Vietnamese home cooking - not just foods from restaurants and street eating but a wider range of everyday dishes. I'm not Vietnamese so I really have no idea what I'm talking about, but my sense is that the recipes contained do cover dishes on the simpler/family-style end of the range. Phan is also American, so I do notice that he goes pretty light on the French-inspired dishes that I have seen in other experiences of Vietnamese food (pate etc.).

The positives: This is a beautiful text, nicely bound, laid out, and photographed. The ingredient guide in the back alone is like eye candy. I like the fact that it is grouped by cooking style (e.g. steaming, stir frying), and that he will go into one style of cooking or one type of food (e.g. steamed buns or clay pot) and then teach you several varieties on that. As far as I can tell this is a great book for someone who really wants to get into Vietnamese cooking as an art, understanding the cuisine as a whole rather than dabbling in a few dishes. I find his advice pretty low-key/practical, and he really walks you through certain details of e.g. how to choose a cleaver, what the difference between using a clay pot and a dutch oven might be. The conclusion is not always "buy the most expensive/task-specific equipment" which I appreciate a lot.

The negatives: I do find the book frustration-, ingredient-, and labor-intensive, so you have to commit. I wouldn't recommend buying this book if you don't have access to a good food processor, a good butcher, and a well-stocked Asian grocery store. This is also really not for someone who wants to throw together an Asian-inspired dinner in 20 minutes after getting home from work (though both the lemongrass porkchop and lemongrass chicken are great quick recipes) - for the most part this is weekend cooking for which you have to plan ahead and acquire the ingredients over several trips to the store.

I also do feel like sometimes, the recipes are not written in the most logical way (e.g. pork steamed bun says FIRST to make the dough - which must rise over 2 hrs - and THEN to make the pork - which must marinate overnight) or they actively make things harder (e.g. the sweet potato shrimp fritters instructions have you cross-hatching sweet potato sticks in the frying oil - after a while I just gave up and threw a whole clump in the oil which worked just as well). Other things really do just take a few tries to get right. I feel like these are the types of recipes where you sort of find your way after the second or third time making them and then they're pretty good - but following the steps to the letter does not seem to be the optimal way to proceed.

For people with a Western palate, I'd add: Vietnamese cooking really does use a lot of sugar and salt, and while I thought this book might cut down on those ingredients given SF's health-crazed foodies, I do still find the recipes pretty sweet and salty so you may need to adjust accordingly. Also, it is quite common to combine meat and fish in the same dish, which takes some getting used to and is worth being prepared for (since that applies to a lot of the recipes).

Overall, I really do enjoy the food that has come out of this book and I give Phan credit for what I think is a truly unique/distinct cookbook - it clearly has a lot of his personal voice/work/knowledge wrapped in and I think it covers a different segment of Vietnamese cuisine than many other cookbooks might. It's also pretty region-agnostic which is cool (since many of the recipes he seems to have collected through travels around Vietnam, so it's not along the lines of those cookbooks that just display a list of specialties from a chef's grandmother's hometown). As it's my first Vietnamese cookbook, though, I might supplement it with another volume that's a bit easier to cook along with.

15 people found this helpful

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Top reviews from other countries

Dotty Oxford

Great book my husband has cooked some lovely food from ...

Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on March 13, 2017

Verified Purchase

Great book my husband has cooked some lovely food from it. Vietnamese food so different from Chinese or Thai.

One person found this helpful

Amazon Customer

Interesting xand informative

Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on February 26, 2017

Verified Purchase

Lovely book wonderful photographs. Reciies excelllent as well.

Lynette

Five Stars

Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on January 20, 2018

Verified Purchase

tasty

JL and ADP

Great recipe book! For beginners and/or those looking for a nostalgia trip for mom (or dad's) cooking.

Reviewed in Canada 🇨🇦 on October 4, 2017

Verified Purchase

My partner and I are second generation Canadians with our respective parents who immigrated from both South and North Vietnam. Our taste profile has always been extremely flexible, having grown up in the diverse Canadian culture whilst experiencing authentic Vietnamese home cooking since childhood. This book really hits close to home for us.

The recipe book includes not just Vietnamese dishes, but other mixed-Asian cuisine often inspired by Vietnamese cooking. We find that Charles Phan's recipes provides a thorough walk-through for the most iconic Vietnamese dishes, while eliminating or changing some aspects of certain dishes to suit 'western' taste profiles better, though you are not losing any of the bright, aromatic, sweet experiences that comes with eating Vietnamese food. Many of the dishes also came with other variations you can try which is also important, as a lot of Vietnamese cooking can be eaten in a variety of ways.

Charles Phan is incredibly detail-oriented, describing in excruciating detail how to execute the methods for cooking perfectly. He goes in-depth to list out major foods, spices and herbs found in Vietnamese cooking, labeling and providing excellently portrayed imagery, often with style.

Outside of the recipes and tutorials themselves, the book is a pleasing read. Charles Phan has captivating experiences to share and describes them in a way that resonates with you so well you can picture yourself in his shoes.

4 people found this helpful

S. G.

Recipes a bit too involved.

Reviewed in Germany 🇩🇪 on July 11, 2020

Verified Purchase

Nice book but recipes are rather involved. note I regularly cook cuisines like Indian, Thai etc so I'm not averse to more involved recipes.

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