Viper 4105V 1-Way Remote Start System
- Remote Start And Keyless Entry System Remote Start Function Is For Fuel Injected, Diesel, And Hybrid Vehicles With Automatic Transmissions Only
- Two 4-Button 1-Way Transmitters - Up To 1500-Foot Range Car Finder Flashes Lights Five Times Slowly
- Panic Mode Requires Horn Circuit To Be Connected Clone-Safe Code-Hopping For Added Security - Two Auxiliary Channels For Adding Functions
- Clone-Safe Code-Hopping for added security
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|Sold By||Available from these sellers||INTERSPECTIVE LLC||Sound of Tri-State Inc||OnlineCarStereo-com||Amazon.com|
|Item Dimensions||8.00 x 3.00 x 6.00 inches||7.75 x 7.75 x 3.00 inches||8.00 x 6.00 x 3.00 inches||7.40 x 4.10 x 5.50 inches||7.20 x 4.80 x 5.40 inches|
You can start your car from up to 1500 feet away -that's over a quarter mile -with Viper's Model 4105V remote start system. Just push a button on the keychain remote, and your car will be warmed or cooled just to your liking when you get to it. The remote also unlocks and locks your car, and even allows you to arm and disarm a factory security system in most cars. Two auxiliary channels allow you to add functions like popping open the trunk or lowering the windows. The Model 4105V system is also compatible with any Viper Smart Start module, which allows you to start your car via your smartphone with no limit to the range.
Professional installation is highly recommended.
This is a fantastic deal. This item does require installation. We highly recommend you have a professional complete your installation. Not to say you couldn't do this yourself. But a remote start does require getting up close and personal with the underside of the dash of your car and under the hood. You should be made aware of this before you make this purchase. Some cars require additional parts due to transponder keys or data based door lock systems. We have this parts available if you need them.
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What do I need that's not obvious?:
1. T-Taps: These bite into smaller wires and allow you to plug another wire into them.
2. Terminal Quick Connects: These plug into the T-Taps.
3. A Multimeter: For testing wires to make sure you have the right wire. You can also use a wire penetrating probe, it's a lot cheaper but the instructions expressly disapprove of their use.
4. Wire Penetrating Leads (for your Multimeter): These poke a tiny hole into your wires so you can test them more easily).
5. Liquid Electrical Tape: I used this on smaller wires to seal up my holes, many pro installers say this isn't necessary but I erred on the side of safety.
6. Various Zip Ties: for tidying up and mounting your remote start.
7. Shrink Tubing: I used it to along with zip ties to insulate the wires I clipped off.
8. A good quality pad for your knees or a short stool to sit on.
9. (Optional): Soldering Iron.
WTH is all this stuff?!
Buttons and Switches:
1. Programming Button (little black button, 2 pin connector at its end):
It plugs directly into the unit and allows you to change settings on your remote start (vehicle run time etc).
2. Toggle Switch (on off switch 2 wires protruding):
This gets wired to the Black/White Neutral Safety Switch Wire (on 5 pin Remote Start Harness) and ground.
3. Momentary Switch (long switch that when depressed breaks contact and springs back):
This gets wired to Ground and the Blue/White Activation Input Wire (if it's not depressed, when your vehicle starts it will shut off in about a second) I believe this is intended to be used as a Hood Pin Switch (when your hood is closed your vehicle will start, when it's not your vehicle will shut off promptly or won't start) I bought a Mercury Switch and mounted it under my hood instead because these are notorious for breaking in time.
1. Main Harness (9 Pins): (Connected with T-Taps and Terminal Connectors)
1a) light green/black: (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm: I clipped it because my vehicle doesn't have an alarm
2a) green/white: (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Rearm: same as above, clipped.
3a) yellow: (+) Ingnition Out (to alarm): same as above, clipped.
4a) white/blue: (-) Activation Input: hooked to ground then to mercury switch mounted under hood (recommended).
5a) orange: (-) 500mA Ground When Locked/Anti-Grind Output: my truck doesn't have power locks so I clipped it.
6a) brown: (-) 200mA Horn Output: Wired to my horn wire.
7a) red/white: (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output: Clipped, I drive a truck.
8a) black: Ground my chassis with a Dremmel and securely screwed it in w/ a self tapping screw and lock washer.
9a) white: (+/-) Light Flash Output: Wired to my parking light wire behind my dash.
2. Remote Start Harness (6 Pins): (I spliced and spread my ignition wires, twisted these in securely, soldered them, carefully wrapped them with good electrical tape and put zip ties on their ends to prevent anything from coming lose or becoming exposed. T-Taps are not recommended because these are high voltage wires):
2a) red1: (+) (30A) High Current 12V Input: Twisted together with 2c (Red 2) and wired to 12V Constant in my ignition harness.
2b) pink/white: Output to Second Ignition/Accessory Circuit: I clipped and insulated it.
2c) red2: (+) (30A) High Current 12V Input: Twisted together with 2a (Red 1) and wired to 12V Constant in my ignition harness.
2d) orange: (+) (30A)Output to Accessory Circuit: Connected to Accessory Wire in Ignition Harness.
2e) purple: (+) (30A) Output to Starter Circuit: Connected to Starter Wire in Ignition Harness.
2f) pink: (+) (30A) Output to Primary Ignition Circuit: Connected to Ignition Wire in Ignition Harness.
3. Remote Start Harness (5 Pin Connector):
3a) black/white (-): Neutral Safety Switch Input: Wired to Toggle Switch and Ground.
3b) violet/white: Tachometer Input Wire: I skipped this wire but did not clip it, the Virtual Tach feature works well without it.
3c) brown (+): Brake Shutdown Input Wire: I wired it to my Brake Wire in my driver side kick panel, it turns off the remote start when my brake is depressed.
3d) gray (-): Hood Pin Switch Shutdown Wire: I skipped this wire but didn't clip it, I am honestly not 100% certain about this one. I believe it gets wired to your vehicles Hood Pin (-) Wire but my vehicle doesn't have a Hood Pin, I may tie this into my Mercury Switch (added component).
3e) blue/white (-): 200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger: I clipped it, I don't have a rear defogger.
4. Satellite Harness (4 Pins):
4a) This just plugs into the little receiver unit that you run through your trim and mount to your windshield.
VIDEOS: (Amazon keeps deleting my YouTube links so here are video names so that you can search them)
Video Name: Part I - How To Car Alarm Remote Start System Installation
YouTuber: Lessco Electronics
Video Name: Part 3 / 4 Alarm Remote Starter Installation How To Series
YouTuber: Lessco Electronics
I don't agree with the way he spliced into his ignition wires, it seems to me that his connections could easily come lose over time. I chose to splice in and solder to make things more secure and permanent. He states that it makes things really bulky, if you don't over-solder it will not. Anyway, I hope this helps people who decide to be bold and do this themselves. I want to further stress that I am not an expert, do this at your own risk and be smart about it.
1. Prep work.
2,3,4. Splicing into, soldering, insulating and securing the ignition wires (I cleaned up the flux residue after I took this picture, it was my first wire).
5. Scary mess (I tidied up all the wires with zip ties and electrical tape once I knew everything worked).
I’ve had two Viper systems in my Crown Vic’s, both have been flawless. I installed this one myself in a 2005 Vic. All I needed was a few extra relays because my car uses positive triggers for the locks, and I have 3 ignition wires instead of just two like most cars.
Aside from my ADD, if I would’ve worked continuously, it would’ve probably taken about 2-2.5hrs to install taking my time, but I’m anal about wiring, solder everything, heat shrink, etc.
Everything performs flawlessly on this unit. I am using the virtual tach, and have no issues. Doesn’t overcrank, doesn’t undercrank.
Range is amazing. Way farther than I need for my purpose, but I didn’t want the cheaper unit with less range. I work in a large factory, parked AT LEAST 1200 feet away, through thick concrete/metal walls and it’s started when I press the button.
Will be ordering this same unit for my 06 CVPI soon.
The setting for adjusting the starting time does not go long enough. There's 8 settings, at .1 second increments, and even at the longest setting, it won't start my car the first time the majority of the time. Particularly if the engine is "warm" aka, was hot, but sat for an hour and isn't quite cold. Now I guess there's a feature that will allow it to read your tach and tell when it's started, but I couldn't figure out exactly what wire it needed, and I am absolutely not willing to tear into there again. Maybe next year.
There's also a feature to give power to just and auxiliary thing, for instance a dash cam, but the manual really doesn't explain how it works and if it's constant power, or it turns off after a while, or what.
Basically the manual should really be a lot more in-depth than it is, but it seems they just don't feel like taking the time to explain how all the features work in detail, so it's just sort of up to the customer to figure it out as they go. Pretty lame.