|Item Weight||1.6 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||11.6 x 3.4 x 1.4 inches|
|Item model number||L12SCK|
|Material||Stainless Steel, plastic|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Warranty Description||Limited 5 year Warranty to be free from defective materials and workmanship for five years from date of original purchase.|
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Wall Lenk L12SCK Cutlass Stencil Cutting Kit
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- Tool that uses heat to "cut" designs
- Cuts designs in plastic stencil materials such as Mylar or acetate
- Resist materials used for etching, sandblasting glass, and air brushing
- Kit includes: 18 Watt, 120 VAC, 2-Wire Professional Stencil Cutting Pen
- Kit includes: Two Different Points - WB25DT Pointed Tip and WB25BT Angled Tip, Tool Stand, Edge Remover Disc
- Professional stencil cutting kit
- 18-watt pencil style tool
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Wall Lenk L12SCK Cutlass Stencil Cutting Kit has been developed by Lenk and this stencil cutting pen is a tool that uses heat to "cut" designs in plastic stencil materials such as Mylar or acetate, and some resist materials used for etching, sandblasting glass, and air brushing. Kit includes: 18 Watt, 120 VAC, 2-Wire Professional Stencil Cutting Pen, Two Different Points - WB25DT Pointed Tip and WB25BT Angled Tip, Tool Stand, Edge Remover Disc.
From the Manufacturer
Developed by Wall Lenk, the L12SCK Cutlass Stencil Cutting Kit is a tool that uses heat to "cut" designs in plastic stencil materials such as Mylar or acetate, and some resist materials used for etching, sandblasting glass, and air brush. The kit includes 18 watt, 120vac, 2-wire professional stencil cutting pen, two different points-WB25Dt pointed tip, and WB25BT angled tip, tool stand, and edge remover disc.
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The tool comes with two tips. One of them is cone shaped, and straight, and the other one is hooked. So far I have only used the straight one, and I hold it perpendicular to the plastic sheet, not on an angle. The instructions on the package say hold it like a pencil, but I suggest some experiments before you find out which way gives you the results you want. If you hold it on an angle, it will melt a slightly wider swath, and this may give you blobs and messy edges. Keep an X-Acto knife handy to make tiny cuts where the design isn't separating from the sheet due to the melted cut re-sealing. This happens rarely, in my experience.
The directions suggest using either a glass surface or anodized aluminum. Keep in mind that the glass allows a pattern to be traced, whereas you cannot see thru the aluminum. If you don't have a piece of glass, stop everything and go to the hardware store first, and buy this important item. If the edges are not ground, tape them so you don't get any cuts on your fingers. The piece I'm using I found at the dump -- in fact, a whole pile of them -- and it's about twice the thickness of window glass. Don't worry about the heat from the tip touching the glass, nothing bad will happen. Just don't rest the hot tool on the glass for extended periods of time, there is a little stand to set it on. The tool is very hot.
One reviewer said the tool is not suitable for professional artists. I guess it depends on what you're going to do with it. I'm cutting stencils for use in my artwork, and it suits my purposes quite well. The price is great, too. The only thing that didn't work out, kind of funny really, is it comes with a little plastic cap, totally bad idea, so throw that away immediately because if you don't, you'll forget about it when you plug the tool in, and it gets very hot, very fast, and will melt that cap into a black stinking mess in about two seconds. Trust me on this, throw it out.
There were a couple of different plastics for sale at Amazon, and I bought two of them. The one I mentioned up above, and another one that is medium weight with a matte finish. The reason I got the matte finish is that later on I may wish to draw on the plastic, as opposed to looking at a drawing that I've positioned under my piece of glass. For my work I needed some stiffness, and next purchase will probably be for the heavy-weight which (I assume) flexes less.
And finally, melting plastic stinks and may be a little toxic. Since your face is pretty close to the work you're doing, setting up a small fan with gentle breeze will blow the vapors away, which is a good idea, regardless of whether you're doing this in the house or out in the garage. It's something that you do sitting down, generally, because you need some control of your arms and hands.
It's a great tool so I can't say there are any real downsides. However there are a couple points of caution to keep in mind:
1. This thing melts/burns thru the plastic sheet. That process gives off a small amount of really nasty vapors. Be sure you have a small fan available to exhaust the fumes.
2. The box says do not use on a wooden surface - and yup, I tried, it, you really shouldn't use the tool on a wooden surface. It burned into the wood and left chunks of plastic melted onto it. I got a cheap glass palette from the local art store and it works just fine as a background when cutting.
One bit of advise. When you leave the cutter in the little holder that comes with it for a minute or two, DON'T TOUCH THE HOLDER!! It gets hot!! I learned that the hard way! :)
Ok, here is an update. Dont use the Grafix clear plastic. Get the Plaid brand frosted material. There is no comparison in the quality of the stencils you will make. And also I really like the curved tip better.