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Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen [A Cookbook] Kindle Edition
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- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherTen Speed Press
- Publication dateFebruary 28, 2012
- File size5215 KB
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Editorial Reviews
Amazon.com Review
With Washoku Andoh takes the reader into the heart of the Japanese home kitchen. She explains the guiding philosophy then brings it into practical terms with a section on the essential washoku pantry. Her section on the washoku kitchen begins with cutting and ends with shaping and molding. Recipes are found in chapters on Stocks and Condiments; Soups; Rice; Noodles; Vegetables; Fish, Meat and Poultry; Tofu and Eggs; and Desserts.
You might never prepare an entire Japanese meal from beginning to end (though with this book in hand you certainly could), but there's no reason not to believe you wouldn't begin to include some of these recipes in an expanding foodway. The sauces and condiments are particularly exciting. As is the underlying thinking that goes into how you are cooking and why you are cooking--the washoku of it all. Not a bad lesson to learn from an exemplary teacher. --Schuyler Ingle
--This text refers to an alternate kindle_edition edition.About the Author
ELIZABETH ANDOH is the American authority on Japanese cuisine. She has made Japan her home since 1967 and divides her time between Tokyo and Osaka, directing a culinary program called A Taste of Culture. Her book Washoku won the 2006 IACP Jane Grigson award for distinguished scholarship in food writing and was nominated for a James Beard Award.
--This text refers to an alternate kindle_edition edition.Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
Washoku, literally the “harmony of food,” is a way of thinking about what we eat and how it can nourish us. The term describes both a culinary philosophy and the simple, nutritionally balanced food prepared in that spirit.
My first encounter with washoku was nearly forty years ago when I suddenly, and serendipitously, found myself staying with the Andoh family on the Japanese island of Shikoku. My urban American sensibilities were challenged by more than the rural plumbing that first summer. Hunger forced me to be adventurous at table, where my curiosity grew, along with my appetite, for things Japanese.
I was particularly impressed by the rhythm and flow of activity in the Andoh kitchen. This was the cherished, domestic domain of Kiyoko Andoh, the woman who was to become my mother-in-law. From the start, she encouraged me to call her Okaasan (literally “mother,” it is also a term of endearment and respect for women who care for others). Okaasan moved about her daily routine with determination and grace, feeding the Andoh household—children (and their friends), grandchildren (and their friends), workers at the family-owned factory (and some of their family members), and foreign visitors (me) alike. Running such a large, busy home required not only consummate culinary skill, but also an understanding of the value of nutritious, wholesome food and a knack for balancing the budget.
Okaasan’s ability to integrate smoothly such practical considerations as getting meals on the table in several shifts (early risers, after-school lessons, and factory overtime needed to be accommodated) with a deep artistic sensibility (fashioning a flower from a carrot, or reflecting on the texture and shape of tableware) was remarkable. A fine cook for whom the ways of washoku were deeply ingrained and practiced daily, Okaasan never had occasion to doubt the wisdom of this time-honored approach.
Because I had no language skills at first with which to question or challenge, I merely watched the activity around
me and tried to follow suit. I desperately sought to grasp the logic of it all, or at least discern some predictable patterns. Later, as I acquired fluency in Japanese and broadened my experience to include formal culinary training at the Yanagihara School of Classical Japanese Cooking, I fine-tuned my understanding of the principles and practice of washoku. It is those ideas and skills that I am sharing with you in this book.
Washoku: The Five Principles
The calligraphy for wa is used to refer to things indigenous to Japanese culture. In the realm of food, washoku distinguishes Japanese food fromforeign-inspired cuisines, such as yōshoku, or Western-style food.
The philosophy and practice of washoku can best be summarized by a set of five principles that describe how to achieve nutritional balance and aesthetic harmony at mealtime. The first three principles—one each concerning color, flavor palate, and choice of cooking method—deal with the practical considerations of food preparation. The fourth principle defines the sensual nature of food—that is, the need for food to appeal to all the five senses, not just taste and smell. The final principle,which ismore spiritual and philosophic, compels us to appreciate both human endeavor and the natural forces that provide for us.
The five principles of washoku are as follows:
Five colors, or go shiki, suggests that every meal include foods that are red, yellow, green, black, and white. (Often very dark colors, particularly deep purple—eggplant, grapes—and sometimes brown—shiitaké mushrooms—are counted as black.) Vitamins and minerals naturally come into balance with a colorful range of foods.
Five tastes, or go mi, describes what the Japanese call anbai, a harmonious balance of flavors—salty, sour, sweet, bitter, and spicy—that ensures our palates are pleasantly stimulated, but not overwhelmed.
Five ways, or go hō, urges cooks to prepare food by a variety of methods, simmering, broiling, and steaming being some of the most basic. By combining various methods at every meal, it is easy to limit the total amount of sugar, salt, and oil consumed, thereby avoiding excessive calories.
Five senses, or go kan, advises cooks to be mindful not only of taste, but also of sight, sound, smell, and touch (in this case, the texture of food as we eat it).
Five outlooks, or go kanmon, are rules concerned with the partaking of food and have a strong basis in Buddhism. Indeed, many Buddhist temples in Japan that serve vegetarian fare (shōjin ryōri) will have these rules written on their menus. They instruct us, first, to respect the efforts of all those who contributed their toil to cultivating and preparing our food; second, to do good deeds worthy of receiving such nourishment; third, to come to the table without ire; fourth, to eat for spiritual as well as temporal well-being; and fifth, to be serious in our struggle to attain enlightenment.
The five principles are not unique to Japanese foodways. Many Asian cultures share similar beliefs. Indeed, the ideas arrived from China by way of the Korean peninsula about a thousand years ago. In Japan, the five principles intertwined with indigenous Shinto beliefs, such as humanity’s oneness with nature, and evolved into a broadly encompassing, deeply integrated culinary philosophy. A vocabulary emerged to describe various aspects of this distinctive Japanese food culture. Kisetsukan is what the Japanese call their keen appreciation for seasonal cycles and other rhythms of nature. The word shun is used to describe a point in time when a particular food is at its peak of flavor. Shun can last for several weeks or even months—or it can be as fleeting as a few hours or days. The notion of meisanbutsu, or “regional specialties,” holds locally produced foodstuffs in especially high regard. In Japan, where lakes, rivers, and the ocean provide abundant food to complement the harvest of the land, the phrase umi no sachi, yama no sachi (the bounty of the sea, the bounty of the mountains) describes the harmonious union of foods from both land and water sources.
As with other aspects of culture, such as language and dress, foodways settle in and are eventually taken for granted by the society that gave rise to them. Most Japanese today would have a hard time articulating washoku notions, and would not usually discuss among themselves the guidelines for assembling a nutritionally balanced, aesthetically pleasing meal. Yet when choosing items from an à la carte restaurant menu, selecting prepared dishes to take home from a departmentstore food hall, or purchasing packaged food from a convenience store or supermarket, most Japanese will, by instinct, employ the five principles on some level to create culinary harmony.
Despite the pervasiveness of washoku in Japanese food culture, the word itself and the concepts associated with it are relatively unknown outside the country, even among aficionados of Japanese cooking. And although its origins are deeply rooted in Japanese culinary history and habits, washoku can be practiced and enjoyed outside Japan, by Japanese and non-Japanese alike. Selecting ingredients at their peak of seasonal flavor, choosing locally available foods from both the land and the sea, appealing to and engaging all the senses, using a collage of color, employing a variety of food preparations, and assembling an assortment of flavors—a washoku approach to cooking gives the creative and contemplative cook an opportunity to satisfy his or her own aesthetic hunger while providing sustenance and sensory pleasure to others. --This text refers to an alternate kindle_edition edition.
From the Publisher
* The essentials of the Japanese pantry the array of herbs and spices, the numerous varieties of miso, tofu, and noodles are illustrated in full-color photographs.
* Andohs An Ocean of Flavor won the IACP cookbook award for Seafood, Meat, and Poultry in 1998.
--This text refers to an alternate kindle_edition edition.Product details
- ASIN : B007DFV2PW
- Publisher : Ten Speed Press (February 28, 2012)
- Publication date : February 28, 2012
- Language : English
- File size : 5215 KB
- Text-to-Speech : Enabled
- Screen Reader : Supported
- Enhanced typesetting : Enabled
- X-Ray : Enabled
- Word Wise : Not Enabled
- Sticky notes : On Kindle Scribe
- Print length : 330 pages
- Best Sellers Rank: #394,289 in Kindle Store (See Top 100 in Kindle Store)
- #33 in Rice Cooker Recipes
- #66 in Japanese Cooking
- #211 in Japanese Cooking, Food & Wine
- Customer Reviews:
About the author

I was born and raised in America though Japan has been my home for more than four decades. As you can see from my photo, I am not ethnically Japanese.
My formal culinary training was taken at the Yanagihara School of Traditional Japanese Cuisine, in Tokyo. In 1972 I began my own culinary arts program, A Taste of Culture, that combines spicy tidbits of food lore with practical tips and skill-building lessons on how to prepare Japanese food. My programs are conducted in Tokyo, Japan and offer a unique opportunity for foreign residents and visitors from overseas to explore and enjoy Japan's culture through its food.
I publish an electronic newsletter about 6 times a year. Each issue includes a short essay/story focused on some aspect of Japan's food culture. Each edition of the newsletter includes links to photo-illustrated recipes related to the chosen theme. Recipes can be downloaded and printed out, making it easy for subscribers to take into the kitchen when they cook. A Taste of Culture's newsletters are free-of-charge, though permission-based. To subscribe, fill out the form on the home page of TASTEOFCULTURE dot com.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 14, 2020
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First, a few notes on the positive -
Washoku is a hearty hardcover cookbook that can last many years of regular use. The pages are clear and crisp, and what images are included are indeed gorgeous. I enjoyed the introductory backstory about the author's observations and learning process in the kitchen with her Japanese mother-in-law. Very sweet and personal. The first third or so of this book is a very informative and detailed guide to individual ingredients, broken into sections by product type. This section alone is incredibly helpful and I would love to see an expanded version with more images for reference. Each recipe includes a short description and some include recommendations for variants on the same dish.
Now the criticisms -
I would give this cookbook a much better rating if I could see and understand what I am trying to make in advance. Japanese cooking is new to me and I'm finding it to be far from intuitive learning process. I blame my own lack of familiarity - but I did have high hopes that this cookbook would be my guide. Unlike the author I don't have an awesome Japanese mother-in-law to show me what to do each step of the way. I just have this book and it isn't quite as detailed or as expansive as I'd hoped.
Specifically - I need more detailed instructions regarding preparation steps within each recipe and there are simply not enough photographs. Visuals of completed recipes cannot be underestimated. Without photographs I cannot know if what I am making is something close to the written description. I won't even know if the dish is going to be served cold, roasted, fried or sautéed until I read through the entire recipe and even then it's not always clear.
I had hoped for a rough guide to cooking Japanese food at home (aka - introductory level cooking with simple ingredients) but found most of these dishes require a lot of prep work and small amounts of many ingredients - many of which tend to be very expensive. I purchased all the "10 essential pantry items" and some other items for good measure but still find myself needing another trip to a specialty market every time I cook a new meal. It's just not worth the hassle.
Overall I'm giving this title a 4-Star rating based on book quality, but be wary if you are new to Japanese cooking, this may not be the best place to start. I imagine there must be more a more diverse collection of Japanese recipes out there in the world of cookbooks and maybe even one with more instruction. I'll just have to keep looking.
The only problems that I've noticed is that there are a few factual inaccuracies that certainly must affect the book. For example, the author claims MSG causes headaches and other maladies, and therefore should be avoided entirely. Instead, you should use natural MSG sources like bonito, dashi, etc. This is positively wrong and has been proven by numerous studies to be completely untrue. It can be safely used in many foods at levels similar to salt.
Second, the author makes a blanket statement that salmon has higher level of parasites and should therefore should never be eaten raw. This has been a misconception in Japan in particular for decades. Meanwhile, the rest of the world has been eating raw salmon in sushi dishes for decades safely. Flash frozen salmon from reputable sources is no more dangerous than salt-water-exclusive fish served in sushi restaurants.
These sorts of blanket statements that are factually incorrect make me not trust some of the other recommendations. That said, the book is still very enjoyable and has introduced me to many new cooking techniques, recipes, and flavors.
I've only given it four stars though due to the packaging. I also purchased a book stand. They came packaged together and both the book and the book itself and the stand box are slightly damaged. The packing inside the stand box seems sufficient, but the book had no individual packaging around it, and the book jacket as beautiful as it is (and I expect this to be used as a show piece on a counter top as well as a functional cook book) now is slightly torn in two places and one corner at the bottom is bent. The box with the two items came with two air bag packaging pieces on top. So only the top of the book was protected. I will not be asking for a replacement as we are traveling out of state in a few days with this gift and the damage is minor, but I did want to share this, as if it's a gift you may want to allow extra time to return it depending upon the amount of damage to yours, if any. Also, maybe they'll improve their packaging of the books.
I would have given 5 stars on stand and book being giftable it if the book hadn't obviously squashed the box. Just too heavy of a book to put together in my opinion.
And book jacket too beautiful and fragile to leave to just laying in a box with air bags on top.
Great source of knowledge.
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