|Item Weight||0.8 ounces|
|Package Dimensions||5.5 x 3.5 x 0.3 inches|
|Item model number||090601|
|Size||12-3.3 Volt / 10 Watt|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Special Features||A key switch input and output voltage, Batteries buck, and etc.|
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DROK 090601 Waterproof Auto Vehicle Voltage Reducer DC-DC Buck Converter 12V to 3.3V Step-down Voltage Regulator Transformer 3A/10W Power Supply Module for Car Radio LED Display
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- DC-DC buck power converter for converting 12V to 3.3V with over 90% conversion efficiency.
- Input voltage must be greater of 6.3-22V than output voltage and make sure at least 3V voltage difference.
- Characterized by durable, anti-shock, anti-humidity, waterproof, dust-proof and over current protection.
- Synchronous rectification technology, higher operating efficiency, stable and reliable performance, low heat.
- Used in car audio, radio, LED screen, toy car, LCD TV, solar energy, electrical fan and etc.
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|Size||12-3.3 Volt / 10 Watt||8-22V to 1-15V 3A||—||5-32V to 1-27V 5A||DC 12V to 6V||1 Pack|
Module Properties: non-isolated buck module (BUCK)
Rectification: synchronous rectification
Input voltage: DC 12V
Output voltage: 3.3V
Output Current: 3A
Output Power: 10W
Conversion efficiency: Max 95%
No-load consumption: 10-12mA
Working temperature: Industrial-grade (-40 °c to +85 °c)
Overcurrent, overtemperature, short circuit protection
Waterproof, Dust-proof, Shockproof, Suitable for all kinds of harsh environments
Small size: 35x25.5x21mm (do not including install ear)
1x DC/DC Converter
Top customer reviews
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I have done this to several vehicles. Sometimes I use a universal remote. Sometimes I use the remote that comes with the garage door. I typically use the Drok converter. I can build a converter with a few Radio Shack components, but the Drok offering comes in a nice, waterproof, package. It saves me lots of time, and works really well every time. All in all, it's a great buy.
I'm not affiliated with Drok, nor was I paid or given a discount for this review.
I have to make some of the tools I need because astrophotography is an expensive hobby and there are remarkably few 'convenience' accessories on the market. The Canon T3i requires DC 7.4v power at 2 amps and Canon does not make a DC power cord for this camera. I've only been able to find one third party cord, and it costs more than a used camera. I decided to make my own DC cord for my Canon T3i DSLR that would run right off the marine deep cycle battery to power my camera.
This product neatly addresses the power requirements of my DSLR camera. I was able to simply crimp a 12v DC cigarette style plug to one end, and crimp a power cord to the output side of the buck reducer which plugs into my camera. There are markings on the case which indicates which leads are positive and negative. Also it shows you which power leads are for input and output wires. Being a hobbyist electrical tinkerer I need all the assistance I can get. A few electrical butt connectors were all I needed, and the power cord was constructed in less than 30 minutes!
Ok, truth be told, the overall trial and error construction took a few hours. I did notice that when i first attempted to power up my DSLR I was only drawing about 0.1 amps of power. I checked all of my connections, and they were done correctly and tightly. I eventually decided to use better cabling from the output to my camera because I was using very small gauge wiring. As it turns out, the cabling was not thick enough to carry a full 2 amps of power (it was phone cord cabling, after all). Upgrading to audio speaker wire solved this problem immediately.
It works perfectly. I can take photos without worry that a power hungry inverter is reducing the power capacity of my field battery too quickly.
In theory this 12v to 7.5v buck reducer can allow me to take photos using my DSLR and field battery for about a couple days (maybe a whole week of nights)! I'm really looking forward to my first time out in the field with this feeding my DSLR for the whole night.
Second came working, I was using about 800ma (not even close to it's limit). A few minutes later a really acrid smell started emanating from my ATTiny. My hand brushed over it and it burned me, I pulled the power and started testing pieces of the board.
Everything was dead. The ATTiny, my sim module which was connected to it, even the LED I had hooked up to the indicator.
I got to the final culprit, this garbage regulator. It was outputting 12 VOLTS OUT from a 13 VOLT INPUT. And to make it clear this was the 3.7V model so it was out of range by 324 PERCENT. So my everything in the circuit designed to take 3.7V was turned into a hand warmer.
It's cheap for a reason.
Edit: I forgot to mention, in the original circuit it was running at 12V, I just didn't want to plug it back into my still working power supply so I used this cheaper one to test, even at 12V from the original supply the output was completely unregulated
The 12v solar battery set up works great with the DRok module.
It saves me power...which is important with solar cells.