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DROK Waterproof Auto Vehicle Voltage Reducer DC-DC Buck Converter 12V to 3.3V Step-down Voltage Regulator Transformer 3A/10W Power Supply Module for Car Radio LED Display

4.5 out of 5 stars 59 customer reviews

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12V to 3.3V/10W
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  • Dc-dc buck power converter for converting 12V to 3 3V with over 90 percent conversion efficiency
  • Input Voltage must be greater of 6 3-22v than output Voltage and make sure at least 3V Voltage difference
  • Characterized by durable, anti-shock, anti-humidity, waterproof, dust-proof and over current protection
  • Synchronous rectification technology, higher operating efficiency, Stable and reliable performance, low heat
  • Used in car audio, radio, LED screen, toy car, LCD TV, solar energy, electrical fan and etc
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Technical Details

Size: 12V to 3.3V/10W
  • A key switch input and output voltage
  • Batteries buck, and etc.

Product Description

Size:12V to 3.3V/10W

Specifications:
Module Properties: non-isolated buck module (BUCK)
Rectification: synchronous rectification
Input voltage: DC 12V
Output voltage: 3.3V
Output Current: 3A
Output Power: 10W
Conversion efficiency: Max 95%
No-load consumption: 10-12mA
Working temperature: Industrial-grade (-40 °c to +85 °c)

Features:
Overcurrent, overtemperature, short circuit protection
Waterproof, Dust-proof, Shockproof, Suitable for all kinds of harsh environments
Small size: 35x25.5x21mm (do not including install ear)

Package Includes:
1x DC/DC Converter


Product Information

Size:12V to 3.3V/10W

Technical Details

Additional Information

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Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

Size: 12V to 7.5V/22W Verified Purchase
Works perfectly, drops a 12v source to 7.5v source, with up to 3 amps output still, which is perfect for most Canon dSLR cameras if you wanted to make a DC source yourself for long term external battery use, like an external big lithium pack, such as used for late night long hour deep sky astrophotography with hours of long exposures time or for time lapse photography. I spliced it into a DC cable with a pair of strippers and tape!
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Size: 12V to 3.7V/11W Verified Purchase
Works as stated. Red (+) and black (-) are the 12v input lines, Yellow (+) and black (-) are the 3.7v output lines. I have modified several dual D-Cell battery powered devices to work with 12v trailer or vehicle power. Have not tested it underwater, but one of these is mounted on a water heater so drips and spills are common, No heat, no problems.
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Size: 12V to 3.3V/10W Verified Purchase
I modified a garage door remote to use the car battery instead of its own. I used the Drok converter to step the voltage down from the 12V coming from the car battery to the 3V used by the remote. I installed a switch to the dash and wired it to the remote (now sitting inside the dash). The car now has a hard-wired garage door opener.

I have done this to several vehicles. Sometimes I use a universal remote. Sometimes I use the remote that comes with the garage door. I typically use the Drok converter. I can build a converter with a few Radio Shack components, but the Drok offering comes in a nice, waterproof, package. It saves me lots of time, and works really well every time. All in all, it's a great buy.

I'm not affiliated with Drok, nor was I paid or given a discount for this review.
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Size: 12V to 7.5V/22W Verified Purchase
As an amateur astrophotographer, having a battery that can last all night is mission critical. One problem that I face, however, is that batteries can get warm and the heat shows up in log exposure photographs. For about three years now, my solution to this was to run an AC power cord plugged into a power inverter that was powered by a deep cycle battery. This introduced several undesirable issues. First, the inverter is not efficient. Second, I need to carry more equipment into the field (inverter, ac power cord, ac to camera adapter). I wanted something that was more power efficient and allowed me to depend on fewer parts.

I have to make some of the tools I need because astrophotography is an expensive hobby and there are remarkably few 'convenience' accessories on the market. The Canon T3i requires DC 7.4v power at 2 amps and Canon does not make a DC power cord for this camera. I've only been able to find one third party cord, and it costs more than a used camera. I decided to make my own DC cord for my Canon T3i DSLR that would run right off the marine deep cycle battery to power my camera.

This product neatly addresses the power requirements of my DSLR camera. I was able to simply crimp a 12v DC cigarette style plug to one end, and crimp a power cord to the output side of the buck reducer which plugs into my camera. There are markings on the case which indicates which leads are positive and negative. Also it shows you which power leads are for input and output wires. Being a hobbyist electrical tinkerer I need all the assistance I can get. A few electrical butt connectors were all I needed, and the power cord was constructed in less than 30 minutes!

Ok, truth be told, the overall trial and error construction took a few hours.
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Size: 12V to 3.7V/11W Verified Purchase
First came DOA, shorted across the input. I was just lucky my power supply didn't die.

Second came working, I was using about 800ma (not even close to it's limit). A few minutes later a really acrid smell started emanating from my ATTiny. My hand brushed over it and it burned me, I pulled the power and started testing pieces of the board.

Everything was dead. The ATTiny, my sim module which was connected to it, even the LED I had hooked up to the indicator.

I got to the final culprit, this garbage regulator. It was outputting 12 VOLTS OUT from a 13 VOLT INPUT. And to make it clear this was the 3.7V model so it was out of range by 324 PERCENT. So my everything in the circuit designed to take 3.7V was turned into a hand warmer.

It's cheap for a reason.

Edit: I forgot to mention, in the original circuit it was running at 12V, I just didn't want to plug it back into my still working power supply so I used this cheaper one to test, even at 12V from the original supply the output was completely unregulated
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Size: 12V to 7.5V/22W Verified Purchase
Used it to power a Canon 1000D in the field for astrophotography work. Can't beat its weatherproof, heat sinked and pretty much bullet proof case!
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Size: 12V to 3.7V/11W Verified Purchase
Disappointed, definitely not putting out 3A. More around 1.5, maybe. Too cheap to bother with returning, will most likely go on the shelf in case I ever need a lower amp converter in the future. Went ahead and had to use another converter I had laying around with some modifications to lower its voltage since I could not wait to order another one...
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Size: 12V to 3.3V/10W Verified Purchase
This voltage reducer is perfect for my project. I needed a night light in my RV. I bought a picture of candles and it had LED lights that make the flame look like it is flickering. The picture takes 2 AA batteries to light the LED's. The LED's would not work on 12 volts so I wired this voltage reducer to a 12 volt line and into my picture. Now I can turn the picture on at night and it gives perfect light in the bathroom. I don't feel like I am lighting an NFL football stadium since I don't have to turn on the overhead lights. Best of all, I don't have to buy batteries
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  • DROK Waterproof Auto Vehicle Voltage Reducer DC-DC Buck Converter 12V to 3.3V Step-down Voltage Regulator Transformer 3A/10W Power Supply Module for Car Radio LED Display
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