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on March 23, 2018
I read reviews concerning being always leaking or lever does not stay up. Here is the clue you need. The rotating spout lifts out and the lever comes forward and off of the valve. In operation that lever lifts on a barrel nut that threads onto the valve plunger. It can be screwed down where it eventually will always lift and keep the valve open (leaking?). The same too low adjustment could prevent the lever from lifting all the way but without leaking. Or backed off higher and eventually not lift enough to fully open and turn on the water flow. I seriously needed a replacement but after seeing the assembly method I now know I could have made my 20+ year old flat sided model stop intermittently dripping 2 weeks ago. The valve has to be removed from the bottom. It only drops out after unscrewing the brass inlet pipe. That pipe has a tapered end with an o-ring only to prevent leaking outside of the assembly. The key part is the spring assisted lift valve. It has two o-rings with one very small one that seats into the top of the fill tube. It is a 3 cent o-ring fix as long as you have access to unusually small o-rings not commonly found in assortment sets. That is unless you are a Butane lighter or miniature water valve specialist. Still, cleaning up all the parts on my old one made things work again and Now I have a hot swap spare in the event this one ever has an issue before I go to the old folks home. I will add for the brave who disassemble the old unit. The bottom removal is the only way to fully disassemble as until the bottom is clear and the top barrel nut removed it will be near impossible to remove the top screw in valve retainer (in spite of the fact I split a screwdriver blade and did so myself). Special note. When reassembling only screw in the top retainer flush with the body, not all the way threaded in. You can install it with a common screwdriver because the valve stem is not sticking through the middle of the slot. The spring tension will be applied when you turn in the fill tube. I would recomend using a double nut (nut with a 2nd jam nut) system so as to not damage the pipe threads.
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on July 4, 2017
Don't listen to the reviews that call this 'junk'. This is a high quality stainless RO air gap faucet. Replaced the one that came with our RO system originally and it works much better. Higher flow, no leaks, feels much more solid. Completely satisfied. By the way, knocking down a product to 1, 2 or 3 stars because you don't understand the plumbing requirements of an airgap faucet is nonsense. If you know what you need, and you know how to install it, this one is hard to beat.
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BEFORE YOU PURCHASE---if your old faucet is just leaking or making noise, see "maintenance" below.

The faucet is good quality. I used it to replace an identical one which had operated flawlessly for 20 years.

The design is very convenient: The lever has three positions, 1) UP = open (conveniently for filling a pot), 2) closed, 3) DOWN = press-open, which is convenient for filling a glass---even with the hand you are holding the glass. Many more expensive faucets are "crank open" / "crank shut. The "giraffe neck" rotates 360 degrees, and so, if installed at the corner of a sink (or elsewhere), can fill a pot placed on the counter.

Included: the faucet itself, hardware to install in the counter-top, and fittings to attach the blue tube to the faucet. NOT INCLUDED: any fittings to attach the 3 water tubes to the filters, drain, etc.

NO MEANINGFUL INSTRUCTIONS are included, and are incomplete for this faucet. The instructions printed on the box are for several different types of faucets, do NOT show you how to attach the blue tube, and do not helpfully identify the red and black tubes. If I had tried to install the faucet following the "instructions" I would have installed it wrong. Solution: Install the faucet according to the instructions which came with your water filter system, exactly as your previous faucet was installed.

Note that you can install it as shown on the photo, or reversed with the lever toward the sink (which I think is more convenient).

Turn off the water supply to the water filter which is attached to the faucet you are replacing; open the old faucet an let it drain until no more water comes out (the same steps you'd take for replacing filters).

Blue tube: attach to the "stud" on the bottom of the faucet with the supplied fittings (nylon ferrule and compression nut)
Red tube: pre-attached, "brine input"
Black tube: pre-attached, "brine output"--i.e., waste water line to your kitchen sink drain-line

You will probably have to remove part of your osmosis system to gain access. When disconnecting your old system, label each connection you disconnect on both sides. Use a 2" to 3" strip of painter's tape and fold it over in half to make a tab to write on (and use a permanent marker). Number the connections 1, 2, 3, etc. Remember to label BOTH sides of the connection with the SAME number (1 connects to 1, 2 connects to 2, 3 connects to 3, etc.). Disconnect as few water lines as you can. As a backup, take closeup photos with your digital camera of every connection which you plan to disconnect AFTER labeling and BEFORE disconnecting.

Preparing for installation of the new faucet. Assemble the spacer, washer, and nut on the faucet (leave about 1/2" for the thickness of your counter). Install the blue line on the faucet using the supplied hardware (a nylon ferrule and a compression nut). It is a good idea to install the fittings on the other ends of the tubes at this point (you will probably have to reuse them from your old faucet connections).

Lower the tubes through the hole in your counter-top, until the new faucet is in place. Decide on which direction you want the lever to point. From underneath, slide the "split washer" in place between the counter-top and the spacer, and tighten the nut. (You should have the right size box wrench ready--space and visibility are likely to be very tight, and it is hard to determine what the right size is blindly. Alternatively, you can use a deep socket wrench (if you have one of the right size), and install the blue tube later. Many faucet installation kits include such a socket--this one doesn't). Note that the space may be very right---pliers or an adjustable wrench probably won't work.

Attach the blue and red tubes to your filter system and the black tube to your sink drain. It is best not to cut the red or blue tubes, even if they are too long, because their length provides easier access to the system for maintenance (you can move the tank and/or filters temporarily without disconnecting the lines). However the black drain tub should probably be cut so the waste water flows straight to the drain, without a dip in which the waste water can collect. Ideally, the black waste line should be as short and as steep as possible. Important: if you must cut a blue or red tube, cut it with a very sharp blade (such as a utility knife with a new sharp blade), absolutely perpendicular.

FIXING LEAKS AFTER NEW INSTALLATIONS--see also "maintenance" below
After installing the new faucet, you should monitor the system for at least 12 hours for leaks--they can develop slowly. If there is a leak you can't find, tie strips of paper kitchen towels around the tubes and place paper towels at other strategic points; check after about 15 minutes and the source of the leak should be obvious.

Although the fittings are designed to install without plumber's thread tape, or plumber's paste, if after reasonably tightening them, they still leak, then plumber's pipe tape or paste will help. You can use "Plumber's Goop" on the threads rather than traditional plumber's pipe paste. For Goop to work best, the fittings should be dry before you assemble them. Eclectic Products Inc 3.7Oz Plumbing Goop 150011 Thread Tape & Paste

If that fails, you can use a blob of "Plumber's Goop" on the outside of the fitting as a sealant to stop the leak. In the latter case, you MUST allow the "Plumber's Goop" to harden for at least TWO FULL days before turning on the water to the filter/faucet. Plumber's Goop used this way can be reinforced by embeding dental floss in the wet glue. I sometimes use Goop as a backup on fittings that are NOT leaking, but using Goop this way can make the connection difficult or impossible to disassemble at some later time.

NOTE that a tiny leak in any part of your kitchen plumbing can easily cause hundreds (even thousands) of dollars worth of damage. A leak detector is strongly recommended. Zircon Leak Alert Electronic Water Detector, 1-Pack Such a detector warned of a leak in my hot-water-heater cabinet before irreparable damage was done.

In normal operation the air-gap causes a dripping noise (usually for about 5 to 15-minutes immediately after using a quantity of water from your reverse osmosis system). If the water supplies an ice-maker, you can hear the dripping at other times. According to the Watt company, most of that noise is actually the waste water splashing into the pool of waste water in the elbow below your sink---so (according to Watt), a heavy nylon fishing line in the black waste water line leading into your sink drain and down to the elbow can minimize the noise, providing a path for the waste water to flow, but I have not tried that, because the noise doesn't bother me. Theoretically, a sink strainer in the closed position should completely muffle the sound (but I use a simple screen instead which catches more stuff). Besides, the dripping sound is a good way to monitor that the system is working properly.

After about 6 months of use, the black waste-water tube can become clogged with a bacterial mat. If you pay attention, there is an odd choking gurgling sound when the tube is almost clogged. When it is clogged, the waste water will leak from the faucet itself out onto your counter. Note that it is actually designed to do this, which is why instructions usually specify mounting the faucet at the edge of a sink (assuming that most of the overflow will flow into the sink). The solution (i.e., to prevent clogging of the line) is to regularly clean-out the black waste-water line. An 18" length of "weed-whacker" cord works well. Detach the black tube from your sink waste-line, and feed the "weed-whacker cord" into the tube and scrub it out. If you've had a root-canal procedure, you know how it's done. Note that the bacterial mat is a nasty sludge---have an old cloth towel handy to catch the gunk.

About 1 1/2 years ago I purchased a "beer line brush" Draft Beer Line Hose Cleaning Brush: 3/16" diameter, which worked well the one time I used it (the 1/4" diameter model might work better). However, it also occurred to me that I could squirt a few drops of Clorox into the air gap to prevent the bacterial mat from forming. Since I've been doing that once every few months, the waste line has not clogged up, so, I haven't needed to use the brush. The following bottle, which works well for this purpose is $3 at the Container Store Nalgene Plastic Drop Bottle. A Beachcombers! 1/2 Oz & 1oz Soft Squeeze Fine Metal Tip Moroccan Blunt Needle Syringe Type Body Art Henna Tattoo Applicators, 5 Tips 4 Bottles would probably be even better.

The air gap is literally a "gap", that is, an open space, or "well", located is beneath the lever, opposite the giraffe neck. For access to faucets with flat sides (without an access hole on the side), pull the giraffe neck straight up and out, then slide the lever forward (in the direction of the giraffe neck). Drip few drops of Clorox into the "well" Do NOT disturb the small black plastic insert---it is the tiny "faucet" where the the red water line discharges "brine" into the air gap or "well". To reassemble, push the lever backward (in the direction of the air gap), so that the legs slide under the "T", and then push the giraffe neck back into place. In faucets which have domed bodies (without the flat sides), the air gap is accessible via a hole on the same side as the lever---perhaps for the very purpose of making the air gap easier to sanitize. If you install a domed-body faucet with the lever toward the sink, the hole is most easily accessible.

LEAKING (see also "maintenance")
If the faucet leaks ONLY when you are using it (usually after 10 years or so off use), then the problem may be the o-ring seals. You can just pull the "giraffe neck" straight up, and replace the o-rings. LIGHTLY lubricate the o-rings with silicon grease. Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-up Grease - 3 oz. It is a good idea to dab a little bit of the silicon grease where the lever rubs against the giraffe neck to minimize wear---and for noticeable smoother operation. If you don't happen to have a tube of silicon grease, buy one---it is terrific for rejuvenating any rubber items and for improving electrical connections---even fixing computer problems.

Yes that nasty sewage-like sludge in the waste line is scary stuff---but the "air gap" is a separate system with only shares the faucet structure---the good water supply is entirely separate from the "air gap" system. What about the possibility of the "contamination" growing it's way into your reverse-osmosis filter?---"theoretically" it shouldn't get past the air gap---but you could install an "inline check valve" in the red tube to minimize the possibility. If your reverse-osmosis waste-water line did not drain into your sink-waste pipe, then your reverse-osmosis waste water line could not get contaminated by the sludge growing in the elbow in the sink-waste pipe, and would not make even "routine" noise---hint.
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on February 4, 2015
First, this faucet is not what is pictured: it's the round based model, as other reviews have indicated. However, the build quality seems excellent, and I thought it would make a good replacement for our old slightly dripping faucet that needed the black handle jiggled to stop the drip.

I admit to a bit of a struggle working in the very close space under the sink, and had to dash out and buy a couple of tools while in the middle of the job (basin wrench, and a very deep 13 mm socket) to remove the old faucet. The new one went in and produced a clean strong flow and shut off correctly. But, I couldn't figure out why the stem shifted when the black lever was moved. The spout movement is quite obvious, maybe 3/4" at the top, whenever the lever was moved. But there was no sign of a water leak so I put aside my concerns and settled down to enjoy the new faucet.

The next morning, it sounded as though our dishwasher was on - a continuous quiet gurgling. Our dishwasher runs very quietly, the only noise that can be heard from the next room is the drainage gurgle. But this gurgling went on without pause for several hours and was easily heard from the next room.I finally checked it out: it was the new faucet.

I don't understand why the old faucet had zero noise problems. It was an air gap model also. I'm off to Home Depot to see if I can get "my old one" and get rid of this one. It was an unfortunate experience.

Future buyers: Perhaps those reviewers who gave it a 5 star review might respond if you comment on their review and ask about the noise. I would not recommend buying this, even though the quality seems excellent.
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on February 26, 2017
Ooof, Marone! What a bear to install! Ain't a lot of room back there behind all that filter stuff and everything else. A nightmare. Somewhere in the process I was putting the washer on all together and then balancing them on top of the thing and the washer kept falling off and I finally realized that there was a smarter order in threading the lines through and then putting on the washers and everything else. I don't remember. Just give it some thought before installing: What's the smarterest order of doing this? But I got it in there, finally, and it works great. The brushed nickel is nice, also.
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on October 28, 2017
THIS FAUCET IS MISSING ALL THE MOUNTING MATERIALS. And a tube I believe. After researching this item, and talking to my plumber, who is charging me for his time, I found that there is no way to mount this item without additional parts that WERE NOT INCLUDED in the box. I have spent hours trying to determine exactly what is needed. Missing parts are not obvious because the advertised picture DOES NOT SHOW that there are any OTHER parts IN THE PHOTO, other than the faucet. To the layman, it's picture of a pretty faucet with an "air-gap". Great, you think--that's just what I need. Then you get the faucet, look at it, and think, okay, I received everything that is pictured. Everything seems fine. Then you hire a plumber to your house, get started, pull the pretty faucet from the box, start to install, then he asks, "WHERE ARE THE PARTS TO SECURE the faucet to the counter." Is there a bag of parts?? Parts?? What OTHER parts? Well there is NO WAY TO INSTALL unless you have THOSE items. So the plumber is now trying to figure out what should have been included. I have to go online to see if others experienced the same problem as I did. Yep, there are others. SUPPOSEDLY THERE IS A "BAG OF PARTS" Now I need to go back to the seller, a couple of months after the purchase and see if I can beg for, what I should have received in the first place. ITS A BIG DEAL. ANNOYING.
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on November 28, 2016
I opened the faucet package prior to my planned day for installing it. I was pleased to see that the two air-gap waste water tubes were already installed. There was also a 1/4 inch blue tube for the water line. I already had a 3/8 inch water line, so I didn't use the included tube. I used the 3/8 inch quick connect from the old faucet, and it worked well. It took less than an hour to replace, and the leaking has ended. This came with everything I needed, except the 3/8 inch quick adapter.

Installation instructions were very limited, so I used youtube which has many DIY videos. They helped quite a bit.
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on August 24, 2017
So far it is good. Installed it about a month ago. Comes with three water lines. Only difficulty I had with installation was tightening the nut under the sink. In my particular case there is very little room to move a wrench or pliers. Even a needle nose was too big. Had to go and purchase an offset metric wrench. Type of wrench that did the job was a set of open end wrench heads that snap onto a 3/8" socket drive extension, where the wrench head sits at the end of the extension at a 90 degree angle. Faucet works great. Press the spring loaded lever down and hold it to fill a glass of water. To keep it open without holding the lever, flick it up.
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on February 25, 2017
The one pictured (Ari Gap Faucet) is not the one I got. I received the one with a round base rather than the skinny base shown. That having been said, it looks nice and works like it is supposed to. The one I replaced was stuck and would not swivel and sometimes had a difficult time turning off. Just wish it was in a bit easier location to change on my counter top, but this is the third one I have had to install so I am getting better at changing them. Hopefully this one will last forever and I will not have to ever change it again, but then I am not counting on that..
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Great replacement for the one that leaked. This is a go-to filter faucet. Put it up for continuous run, or press down to control the amount you want. Just be sure you keep your fingers away from the 'up' part when shutting it off. It almost took off my finger first time I used it in that position. Since I've learned how to use it properly, it's a great faucet.
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