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XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit
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- Epoxy Coating for 3D Printed Objects
- Smooths 3D Printed Objects
- Compatible with SLA and SLS prints.
- It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media. It also can be used to coat EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper.
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XTC-3D® is a protective coating for smoothing and finishing 3D printed parts. Two liquids are mixed together and brushed onto any 3D print. Coating self-levels and wets out uniformly without leaving brush strokes. Working time is 10 minutes and cure time is about 4 hours (depending on mass and temperature). XTC-3D® cures to a hard, impact resistant coating that can be sanded, primed and painted. Adding colors and metal effects is easy. Inexpensive to Use – 1 oz covers 100+ square inches. 90% Time & Labor Savings: XTC-3D® fills in 3D print striations and creates a smooth, high gloss finish. The need to post finish is almost eliminated. Coat any 3D Print Surface - XTC-3D® can be applied to both SLA and SLS prints. It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media. It also can be used to coat EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper. XTC-3D® does not contain VOC’s, phthalates or phosphates.
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|Sold By||etailz||3DMakerWorld||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Micro Center||3D Solutech|
|Color||—||Clear||black||PATONE COOL GREY 6 C||Translucent Magenta||Silver|
|Item Weight||1.5 lbs||1 lb||2.2 lbs||2.2 lbs||2.2 lbs||2.2 lbs|
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My only issue is that the finish is a little wavy. Sanding is definitely a must. Initially using 60 grit sand paper then working your way up will ensure a nice smooth finish. Think of this product more like liquid Bondo. It's easier to predict where you have to sand more as opposed to Bondo where it can have inconsistent layers. Until a better product comes out, I'll stick to this.
I applied with a sponge brush (One is included but it's a one-use thing.) It self levels to a degree and didn't leave brush marks. If you apply too heavily, you can and up with thick drip marks. This material is sandable and paintable.
I also recommend wearing disposable gloves because this stuff gets sticky.
PS: This stuff stinks really bad too. I dont think the fumes are that bad but it just stinks. So make sure if you dont like bad smells, ventilate your room and have a fan going.
One thing to note that once you use the medicine cup and the chip brush, say goodbye. I stocked up on dixie cups and popsicle sticks since I will be using this very often. I print my models at 50 microns, but that doesn't stop me from coating my models with this, before sealing it with primer. Also the cure time is shortened if you put it in the sun on a 90 degree day (I let it cure for 5 hours). And to get the model ready, I used 220 grit sandpaper to get the surface buffed up for a final pass of paint. I must say, all of my research paid off. I can't wait to use this on bigger models.
-READ the instructions.
-Mix in small quantities and spread on a large flat surface like tin foil tray, don't leave in mixing cup. The more surface area the stuff has, the slower it cures. Realistically you have maybe a 10-minute window to work with it if you follow these instructions. The first time I used it I left it in the cup and it hardened in just a few minutes.
-buy some spare foam brushes and maybe even cheap plastic paint brushes.
-wear a dust mask when sanding or you will be smelling/tasting the color purple for a full day.
-Be sure to only use acrylic paints with it. Don't just go to the store and buy whatever Rustoleum looks pretty, it will not cure right.