Buy Used and Save: Buy a Used "[Open Resin] XYZprinting Nobel 1.0 SLA 3D Printer ..." and save 75% off the $1,499.00 list price. Buy with confidence as the condition of this item and its timely delivery are guaranteed under the "Amazon A-to-z Guarantee". See all Used offers.
[Open Resin] XYZprinting Nobel 1.0 SLA 3D Printer (Included FREE Resin, FREE Printing Platform & Tank)
- Uses advanced stereo lithography 3D printing technology
- Cures Photopolymer resin using UV lasers
- Can print in 25, 50, and 100 micron resolution. Display: 2.6 Inches FSTN LCM
- Automatic resin refill system
- Includes Nobel 1.0 3D printer, scraper, gloves, USB flash Drive, Rinse Basket, USB Wire, resin tank, Warranty Card, Quick Start Guide, Nozzle cap and tube, XYZware Nobel Software, and one 500ml bottle of XYZprinting CLEAR photopolymer resin
Special offers and product promotions
Frequently bought together
What other items do customers buy after viewing this item?
Customers also shopped for
Have a question?
Find answers in product info, Q&As, reviews
Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question.
XYZprinting Nobel 1.0.
From the manufacturer
High Resolution result
With a print resolution up to 300 microns and a layer thickness of 25, 50, and 100 microns, the Nobel 1.0 is a prosumer-grade desktop 3D Printer for more detailed design.
Support 3rd Party Resin
The Nobel 1.0 can support 3rd party resin with a 405nm violet laser. You can choose the best solution for your unique project every time.
The Nobel 1.0 provides a stable SLA printing quality so that users do not need to add liquid resin constantly throughout the printing process.
What Else We Offer
XYZware Nobel software has improved slicing speeds and automatically detects where support structures are needed in the model.
We have a big community of passionate and creative designers who have shared more than 3000 3D models for free download. Join the community and create together!
Besides our online ticketing system, you can also reach out to our technical support via Skype or telephone. Visit our website to learn more.
Legal DisclaimerThis item does not apply to general Amazon 30 days return policy. Item can only be returned if UNOPENED AND UNUSED. If item is OPENED AND UNUSED, a 15% restocking fee will be charged. If the item is USED, it cannot be returnned.
Customers who viewed this item also viewed
Top customer reviews
There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later.
With the Nobel 1.0, so far what I can say is that the manual and documentation that comes with the printer is weak and not comprehensive at all. The manual doesn't offer much in the way of troubleshooting. There really aren't any online resources (user forums, etc...) to help you solve problems, and while their website has a FAQ section, the answers are truncated and written in poor English, so far they haven't helped me fix the problems I've experienced. That's my harshest criticism.
Positive: I followed all of the hardware installation instructions to the letter and everything was fairly easy to assemble, so it gets an A for ease of setup. The software installed easily, no issues there. From the time I opened the box to the time I was actually printing was under an hour.
I've read some reviews where people complain about the noises the machine makes, the smell the resin gives off... and all I can say to those people is that you can't make an omelet without breaking some eggs. Yes, the machine makes noise. So do FDM machines. Is the Nobel louder than FDM machines? maybe... but not outrageously so. Does the resin smell? Sure, but that's what you get for sniffing uncured resin. Cover the resin tank with the UV hood and the smell stays contained... which you should be doing anyway because the resin is UV sensitive. I think that if you're working with a professional industrial machine with a laser in it you should probably be technically proficient enough to cope with the machinery and chemicals involved. But that's just me.
My first test print went fine, that was promising. It took me ten tries on my FDM before I got a usable print. Since my first print, however, it's been all downhill. My second print had 3 separate elements. 1 ended up not sticking to the plate and fell in the resin pool. The other two stuck to the plate, but came out warped. Strike one. My third print stuck to the plate, but somehow came out incomplete.... really unclear what happened there, unless there is a problem with my model, because the machine reported that it printed just fine. Strike two. My fourth print was my 2nd attempt at my second print, but this time all 3 parts fell into the resin pool. Strike three.
So after two days... what I can say is that I have not mastered this machine yet.
Is the resin messy? Well, if you're a messy person, then yes. If you can be meticulous and careful, then you shouldn't have any problems.
I will say this... if you've never done any 3D printing, I would not recommend an SLA printer as your first machine... go cut your teeth on an FDM machine before diving into the deep end.
I'll update my progress with this printer and keep you posted as to my success, or lack thereof... my fifth print is running right now.
Now I'm on print 10 and still no luck. I'm trying to remind myself not to get frustrated, as I'm new to SLA printing and I could very well not be
doing the calibration properly... I have resisted emptying the tank to do the calibration as I am hoping not to waste the resin. Watched the calibration tutorial video on the xyz website, which includes the step of actually pushing the build plate down against the resin tank... something not mentioned in the user manual. That still did not solve the problem. I wrote to the customer support today to ask what I should do. Will update as I learn more.
Until I do hear from the customer support I'm still making more attempts, now I've turned off the resin auto fill option so that I might just use all the resin in the tank rather than waste it.
I also read about possibly scuffing the surface of the metal build plate to promote adhesion, but I want to learn more about that before trying that.
Upgrading my review to 4 stars.
I have learned some more about the machine since my last update. Allowing resin to cure on the build plate DID work for a short time, but worked less and less as time went on until it no longer worked at all. Adhesion to the build plate is the one issue which determines success or failure of prints for me.
I have also learned that the horizontal calibration really only works when the resin tank is empty. Reading complaints from other users about wasting the resin made me realize the way to work around that. Rather than pour the resin back in the resin bottle, pour the resin from the tank into another container. (I used a new mason jar.) Then I cleaned the resin tank thoroughly, then ran the horizontal calibration, then dumped the resin back into the tank. Worked great, no wasted resin like many people have complained about.
I sandblasted the build plate to encourage better adhesion. I realize that most consumers won't have access to a sandblasting machine, but I am fortunate enough to, and it made a WORLD of difference. A thorough sanding with low grit sandpaper may produce similar results, but I can't say for sure since I haven't tested that.
So far I have only printed relatively small objects, but I have been printing at maximum resolution and the prints are really nice. Later today I'm going to try my first larger print... it's estimated to take 20 hours to print at medium resolution.
One problem that I have not been able to overcome is that the XYZware cannot process larger sized objects (maybe large file size objects?) at maximum resolution. (I have hollowed out my larger models and this produces heavy file sizes). When I attempt to slice a file like this it begins the process and then inevitably crashes. I haven't contacted XYZ tech support about this issue yet, as I'm taking my problems one at a time with them.
The tech support for XYZ is a little slow (they are in China, so the time difference comes into play) and English is very obviously their second language, the advice they offer is just more of what you find on the xyz website... so far they haven't been able to help me out of any of the issues I've had, it's been all trial and error and getting advice from some people I know in the 3d printing industry.
Little advice I received about hollowing out models.... put holes in both the top and the bottom of your model, this will help the resin drain out from the inside instead of being held inside by hydraulic pressure. (Imagine putting your finger over a straw and holding the liquid from your drink inside, then remove your finger and watch all the liquid drain....)
That's it for now. More to come as I continue printing.
The printer IS slow - most of my prints are overnight affairs and the largest have gone for over 24 hours. It also is messy - your prints will come out covered in a syrup-like resin, which can very easily get everywhere if you aren't careful. You'll also have to deal with the resin when periodically cleaning the printer. These problems, however, are fairly easy to dismiss in my opinion. They simply come with the SLA technology and can be easily planned for once you know what to expect. The only REAL negative in my opinion is that of cost. Even at around $1000 (about $150 more than I paid) the printer itself is an absolute steal! However, the resin bottles for this machine are CRAZY expensive. They cost $120 for 2 bottles. Having printing about 2 dozen objects of various sizes I've now burned through 5 bottles - meaning my prints are probably costing me over $10 each. If the resin were half the price this would be an easy 5-star review.
If you're on the fence about getting this printer, my advice would be to consider what you're looking for. It's NOT great for fast prototyping. If you are someone who does a lot of 'test prints' to see if your design needs any tweaks you'll probably be better suited with something else. However, the printer is absolutely perfect for printing 'finished' pieces. If you are doing almost all of your testing in-software, already have a second (FDM) printer available for prototyping, or are just printing things designed by others, you'll get the best quality prints available and it will be well worth waiting on a slower print process.
As for print reliability - I've seen a lot of others having problems, so I wanted to offer some advice. For the first week or two I was also having a lot of issues - mostly with the prints staying on the (inverted) printing platform. As it would rise up the prints would slip off, fall back in to the resin tank, and cause all sorts of issues. Eventually either I got better at handling the printer or the printer got better at holding on to the prints. That may sound unlikely - but I do actually think a lot of the credit goes to the printer itself. When it first arrives the platform is a nice, smooth, pristine metal surface. I like to keep my things nice, so I tried to keep it that way by gently scraping the cured resin off with the (included) scraper. As time went on, however, it started accumulating lots of scuffs and scratches. It's probably no coincidence that as it did my prints also stopped slipping off.
Of course, I learned a lot during those first prints as well. I increased the laser power (done via their printing software) to maximum in order to make the prints more solid. I've also gotten better at using the software to automatically add supports. I always add lift supports and add inner support as I feel it necessary - with density and contact size being dependent on the size of the item (I usually go as small as possible). I also always turn on 'brimming' to make certain the contact point with the print platform is as large as possible.
Additionally, I created a dedicated workspace for dealing with the prints and keeping the printer clean. A mid-sized plastic storage bin serves as my trash can (Its small enough to fit a trash bag around the brim, but has a larger mouth to easily catch debris as I scrape it from the platform, and forms an airtight seal to keep the room from smelling like resin). After learning that the resin can dissolve the paint on the wooden desk I bought a silicon baking mat for the workspace. I also have a very large (resealable cereal) container with 64 FL Oz of 90% Isopropyl alcohol (they include a smaller container with the printer for this - but if you're printing any larger items you may find it isn't deep enough). I think it's important to use the 90% stuff. It's not as common as 70%, but is still available almost everywhere. Finally, I keep a spray bottle of Isopropyl alcohol, a toothbrush (for cleaning the resin try and sensor) and a clean lint-free rag. Removing prints is pretty easy and consists of prying them off with the scraper (over the trash bin) and soaking them in the alcohol (to dissolve the uncured resin), I also spray the platform and scrape/wipe any remaining resin to it's clean for the next time. The recommended time for prints to soak is 15 minutes - but I always leave them in for a few hours at least. If they still come out a little sticky I will use the rag or toothbrush to remove the remaining goop. Cleaning the resin tray is a bit more difficult and requires using the toothbrush to clean the resin level sensor with alcohol. The software will prompt you when to clean the tray. I also clean the tray if the printer will be sitting for more than a couple of days without printing - as I believe it is harmful to leave uncured resin in the tray for too long.
What is the problem ?
Please Help me
Most recent customer reviews
You will have to manually fill the vat tray, but it works great.Read more
I am glad xyz did make some help support on this case - They provided an advanced platform calibration method - which is more instructive than the basic tutorial - it...Read more
The software crashed many times on Windows as well Mac.Read more