|Item Weight||8.82 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||16.6 x 13.8 x 7.2 inches|
|Item model number||806-1220|
|Manufacturer Part Number||806-1220|
Xantrex PROWatt 2000 Inverter, Model# 806-1220
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- Built-in digital display for DC volts and output power
- Built-in USB port
- Dual gfci AC receptacles for safe Operation
- Heavy duty terminals for trouble-free Battery connection
- Available on/off remote switch (with ignition lockout)
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Prowatt 2000 SW, Mfg# 806-1220, 2000 watt-120vac true sinewave, 12VDC input, gfci plug, LED display, optional remote, USB plug for charging USB devices. 3.9"H x 11.8"W x 13.7"D; wt: 10.7 lbs.
From the manufacturer
PROwatt 2000 SW Inverter
2,000 Watts of Clean, True Sine Wave AC Power
With high surge capability, the PROwatt SW Series provides the necessary current to startup demanding electrical loads. In addition to dual GFCI AC receptacles, the PROwatt SW Series include an innovative USB connection for providing power to most USB chargeable devices. The PROwatt SW Series offers many safety features not found in similar inverters. When equipped with a remote control, the PROwatt SW Series has the ability to provide automatic ignition lockout, shutting down the inverter's output when the vehicle's ignition is not engaged.
Power inverter providing AC power anywhere you need it.
The compact, easy-to-use and easy-to-install design of the PROwatt SW Series makes it ideal for use in commercial truck, RV, and marine applications. With True Sine-Wave output, the PROwatt SW Series can provide power for all types of electrical loads including variable speed power tools, advanced electrical appliances, microwaves, and much more.
- Built-in digital display for DC volts and output power
- Built-in USB port
- Dual GFCI AC receptacles for safe operation
- Heavy duty terminals for trouble-free battery connection
- Available ON/OFF remote switch (with ignition lockout)
- Two year warranty
- Low voltage shutdown (10.5 Vdc)
- Low voltage alarm (11.0 Vdc)
- Over voltage protection (15.5 Vdc)
- Over load shutdown
- Over temperature shutdown
- GFCI protection
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First of all, wiring: Everything will tell you that 4 gauge should be more than big enough: Not even close. I tried 4-gauge. Then I tried 0-gauge. Then I tried making the wire runs shorter. Then I started doubling up wire runs in parallel. By the time I was through, my battery interconnects were double and triple 4-gauge in parallel, and the connection to the inverter (coming from the center battery of 5) was 000-gauge (also known as 3/0). Connecting that to the terminals on the inverter required taking an industrial terminal block normally used for substation wiring and drilling a 3/8" hole to connect it to the terminals. Finally I had something that wouldn't drop 2+ volts over the wires when drawing 125 amps. When they say 4 gauge can pass 200+ amps, they mean that it won't melt the wire, not that it will give you a usable voltage.
On top of that, batteries: Lead-acid batteries may say they can deliver huge numbers of amps, but not without huge voltage drops. In practice, for every amp you're drawing you want at least 2 pounds of battery (so, minimum 4 size 27 batteries to deliver 125 amps needed for 1500 watts). Try to power your space heater off something you can pick up assisted, and you're just going to get a lot of annoying beeps.
And don't forget that after you've drawn off half of the amp hours theoretically available in your batteries, your *maximum* voltage will have dropped to around 11.8 (so battery load and wiring losses will be working from a lower baseline). With 5 type 27's, I could run the original rooftop air conditioner for no more than 1.5 hours before they were too far down to provide 11.0 volts under load. So I figured out a way to mount a modern, high-efficiency unit that provided the same cooling for half the power.
The point here is that with a really big inverter, you're pushing 12V right to the absolute limits, and you have all *kinds* of weak points that will keep your system from working properly. These are really intended for big residential solar systems with batteries in the thousand-plus pound range. This inverter works *fantastically* well, now that the rest of the system is properly supporting it, but even for an experienced electronics tech getting all that arranged properly was quite an education.
I did try to push this by plugging in everything I could find, ipad, cell phones, 120v air pump, all at the same time. I got it up to a constant 1500 watts via the inverters panel, which alternates between system volts and output wattage. The cooling fans kicked on for a bit, but was cool to the touch after 15 minutes.
After reading some questionable reviews on Amazon for this product, I have to assume people are incorrectly connecting this unit, or are using a power source which doesn't supply enough Amps/Voltage for the inverter to function as its capacity. I am glad I gave this unit a try. Very good, clean power, seems to be very efficient as well. Xantrex knows what they are doing.
1.) In order to handle heavy loads, high-power inverters require high-capacity battery banks and low resistance wiring and connections.
2.) Even the recommended battery/wiring system may not supply the specified voltage to the inverter for the inverter to supply its maximum rated output.
3.) The maximum rated inverter output is lower for motor loads, which are inductive.
4.) You are faced with high current surges associated with motor starting.
You may be familiar with some or all of these considerations but I'll give some details.
The SW2000 does produce a true sine wave as observed on an oscilloscope. It also maintains the 120 Volts under varying loads.
My main application is to provide minimal emergency back up power when the utility electrical service is interrupted. During a worst case scenario test we found that our SW2000 can power our natural gas central air furnace igniter and fan motor, refrigerator, lights, bathroom exhaust fans, and computers -- all at the same time. But, all this does not fully load the inverter -- it only takes it up to about 1200 watts. During an actual emergency, we would not do this -- we would use the appliances sparingly.
But, whatever the load conditions, the user's battery supply would need to keep the input terminals of the inverter up to 11 volts to avoid the "low battery" alarm from beeping or, at very least, up to 10.5 volts to keep the inverter from shutting itself off -- these features are designed into the inverter to prevent the battery charge from getting too low.
Therefore, to keep the inverter input power terminals above those minimum voltage levels under heavy load conditions, the owner's guide recommends a bank of four 12-volt deep-cycle batteries, size AWG 0 wires no more than 6-feet long, terminal lugs that are crimed super tight onto the wire ends, good condition batteries that are fully charged, and all connections tight.
In my own case, I could never expect the inverter to operate near the full, advertised load (1800 watts) because I am only using two batteries and smaller size AWG 2 wire.
But, here's a test using a heavier load than what I need: When I start with fully-charged batteries and plug a 1500-watt electric heater into the inverter, my battery/wiring system will only supply 11.4 volts to the inverter power input terminals. After about 15 minutes, the voltage drops down to the 11-volt level and the inverter beeps its "low battery" alarm. After a little while longer, the voltage drops down to 10.5 volts and the inverter shuts itself off.
This is important: when the "low-battery" alarm beeped, and later when the inverter shut itself off, THE BATTERIES WERE NOT ACTUALLY LOW and THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE INVERTER. The problem is that my battery/wiring system is not sufficient to support the heavier, 1500-watt load for very long. The specific gravity of the battery acid did not indicate a low charge in the batteries. The inverter was not defective.
The inverter only did what it was designed to do. My undersized battery/wiring system only made it look as if there might be a low-battery or inverter problem. The 1500-watt heater overloaded my battery/wiring system. The inverter is OK. The batteries are not low. I can use our inverter-battery system successfully with our usual, smaller load -- like the essential home appliances that I mentioned previously.
All of the above is not to say that there can not be hardware problems or exaggeration in advertising. I only mean to help users by conveying some of the pesky details needed to get good results.
I wish it were not so ... but ... if I needed the absolute full capacity (1800 watts) of the SW2000, I would not only buy two more batteries and larger wire, but I would buy a different model inverter with an even greater capacity -- maybe 3000 watts continuous.
Here's why. The devil is in the details. On page 17 of the owner's guide, the 1800-watt rating is shown in the power output chart along with an input of 13 volts! Wow! Their test facility must have a monster power supply to maintain the specified 13 volts at the inverter power input terminals while loading the inverter with the specified 1800-watt resistive load and while delivering a minimum of 140 amps (1800 watts divided by 13 volts = 140 amps).
Sorry, but I have no reason to believe that, even with the recommended bank of four batteries and large wire size, I could ever provide the specified 13 volts needed to produce the specified 1800 watts from this inverter. I would expect my real-world, four-battery power supply voltage to sag down well below the 13 volts due to resistances in the wires, fuses, and connections, as well as the internal resistances of the batteries.
But wait ... there's more. In the same chart on page 17, they say that the rated 1800 watts only applies to resistive loads like incandescent bulbs [and heating elements]. But, what if you need to run motors? Then the limitation is 15 amps maximum. If you multiply the output of 15 amps by the output of 120 volts, you get 1800 watts -- but only into a resistive load.
However, if your load is composed of one or more motors, you have an inductive load. When you multiply the 15-amp maximum by 120 volts, you get a maximum output of 1800 volt-amps apparent power. If the motor load has an 80% power factor, the maximum real power (to produce work) would only be 1440 watts. Also, motors usually produce a momentary current surge at start-up -- a further demand upon the inverter/battery system -- which it may not be able to supply.
I can see why many people are disappointed with their inverters: faulty hardware, misleading specifications, difficult applications such as motors, and inadequate input power supplies (battery/wiring).
My personal conclusions: pay really close attention to installation details and buy a substantially over-sized inverter.