After four years here is my review...
The Good:
I live in Chicago, so if you're in the city, it's great. Allows you to compost and won't attract wildlife (for us, rats).
Holds a fair amount of compost, two apts could probably share pending overall waste.
Dual bin design is key.
General Considerations:
You need to combine it with a dry source. Leaves or mulch is ideal. We don't have a lot of leaves in our yard so we're mindful to add paper products as well: used paper towels (w/o chemicals), tissues, paper bags etc.
Without a dry source you're going to get mushy compost, and so be it. I bought a pair of to-the-shoulder rubber gloves and scoop it into a bustub when it's complete.
Also, remember it will drip & smell a little until it's ready, so it needs to be tucked away somewhere. Best on the ground instead of cement.
The Not So Good:
The sliding door design doesn't work in the winter, it freezes shut. It's such a drag to NOT be able to compost for a whole season. I've developed a somewhat dexterous high-kick motion with solid boots on to snap it free, but have chipped and broken bits off the door over the years. What's needed are swinging doors with secure clamps.
I've also noticed the side vents close on their own.
Conclusion:
Great (and could use improvement).
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From the manufacturer
Made In North America
by FCMP Outdoor
Tumbling Design
Avoid digging and mixing your compost pile by hand. The tumbling design makes mixing easy and efficient. Just close the door and turn it 5-6 times every 2-3 days. In hot sunny conditions and with a proper balance of ingredients the compost can finish in as little as 2 weeks.
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Two Composting ChambersTwo separate sides allow the first side to finish cooking while leaving the second side available to add fresh scraps/clippings. Continuously swapping sides after finishing will create an uninterrupted flow of rich, healthy compost. |
Durable ConstructionThe composter body is constructed from polypropylene. It is contact safe and will not degrade under direct sunlight. The galvanized steel frame is corrosion resistant. |
Excellent AerationThe composter features adjustable air vents as well as deep fins to break up clumps inside the chamber and mix lots of oxygen into the compost. Tumbling composters allow far greater aeration than standard models. |
Customer Questions & Answers
Customer reviews
It's a nice summer composter, but absolutely not a all year round composter, unless your climate is warm all year round.The 37 gallons size is too small for your compost to reach critical mass and self-generate enough heat.Furthermore, even if the double compartment seems like a good idea at first, it divides the 37 gal by half, and you end up with 18.5 gal. The 37 gal size is barely enough for 2-3 mower bags.Due to its size, I also find the doors to be also a bit small.I have 2 compost piles, and one tumbler. The same mix (30% green / 70% browns) with home-brewed starter, reached ~150F./ 65C. in 24hrs in the compost pile. The tumbler remained at barely above outside temp.It is now November in MA, and I have two blocks of semi-frozen far-far-away to be composted mix. I don't foresee anything happening before June now.I will definitively remove the compartment separator next spring.Assembly: As many times stated by other reviews, you'll need some yoga abilities, hence a second person to help is highly recommended. I strongly suggest to not tighten all the screws at first, but to just pinch them (including the legs) and once the assembly is complete (done on a flat surface), tighten them.Screws: For once, a company is giving you few more screws, and that is highly appreciated. That being said, I would have highly appreciated to have Allen,Torque or Phillips heads instead of those ridiculous square-flat heads. The nuts are Flange Serrated locknuts, and that's a good thing.I like the indentations that help mixing the compost, the vents and also the fact that is not fully waterproof: Some tumblers are, and if you have too much moisture, it cannot escape, collects on the bottom and you start brewing a stinky anaerobic wet mush.Lastly, the secret to compost [fast and well] is to have the proper ratio of green/brown, to have the correct amount of moisture and to have enough oxygen for the bacteria to thrive, so don't hesitate to mix very well and rotate frequently.To boost the starting process, add some old compost. I, me and myself, add 1/2 cup of Milorganite* type fertilizer.So, to sum up:Pro: Well designedCon: Too smallI would buy again if they increase the size to at least 60 to 80 gal.For those interested in 'pro'per composting:- I have attached a list of Carbon to Nitrogen ratio for different materials. (Source Clemson University)Adding worms to your compost: Yes but no! Only do it when your compost does not heat anymore. Once it has started to cure, it's OK to add worms, i.e. Red Wrigglers. If you do it too early you will either kill them or make them move elsewhere. I don't recommend adding them directly in the Yimby as it will get too hot when left in direct sunlight. Red Wrigglers do well at 75F. and do not like below 55 or above 90.- Home brewed compost accelerator:5 gal warm water (105F-110F.) Do not go over 120F.1/4 to 1/2 cup of molasses or brown sugar. Last choice is white sugar.1/2 cup unscented household ammonia (Extra nitrogen)2 teaspoon active dry yeast.Mix gently, let brew for about 2hrs, mixing from time to time.The same recipe exist with beer and soda, beer is for the yeast, soda is for the sugar.You can apply the mix with an Ortho Sprayer set at 8oz per gallon.Spray that at the beginning of your compost pile and spray again once the compost is advanced. The first heat spike will kill the yeast.If you really want to go the extra mile, add a pantyhose filled with 4 cup of compost or good soil and aerate the mix with a small fish tank air pump.And finally, for the nut job, there is the Harvard University bacterial / fungal compost tea. Normally to use on trees or lawn, but it boosts the curing and helps break down the though bit faster. Please Google green.harvard.edu + make your own compost teaIt requires Fish Hydrolysate and Kelp, all available on AmznThe above recipe has been featured in the TV show Ask This Old House, S8E9Sources:Clemson UniversityHarvard University green.harvard.edu
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Top reviews from the United States
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Reviewed in the United States on January 5, 2018
Style: ComposterVerified Purchase
Reviewed in the United States on October 13, 2016
Style: ComposterVerified Purchase
Reviewed in the United States on November 14, 2017
The 37 gallons size is too small for your compost to reach critical mass and self-generate enough heat.
Furthermore, even if the double compartment seems like a good idea at first, it divides the 37 gal by half, and you end up with 18.5 gal. The 37 gal size is barely enough for 2-3 mower bags.
Due to its size, I also find the doors to be also a bit small.
I have 2 compost piles, and one tumbler. The same mix (30% green / 70% browns) with home-brewed starter, reached ~150F./ 65C. in 24hrs in the compost pile. The tumbler remained at barely above outside temp.
It is now November in MA, and I have two blocks of semi-frozen far-far-away to be composted mix. I don't foresee anything happening before June now.
I will definitively remove the compartment separator next spring.
Assembly: As many times stated by other reviews, you'll need some yoga abilities, hence a second person to help is highly recommended. I strongly suggest to not tighten all the screws at first, but to just pinch them (including the legs) and once the assembly is complete (done on a flat surface), tighten them.
Screws: For once, a company is giving you few more screws, and that is highly appreciated. That being said, I would have highly appreciated to have Allen,Torque or Phillips heads instead of those ridiculous square-flat heads. The nuts are Flange Serrated locknuts, and that's a good thing.
I like the indentations that help mixing the compost, the vents and also the fact that is not fully waterproof: Some tumblers are, and if you have too much moisture, it cannot escape, collects on the bottom and you start brewing a stinky anaerobic wet mush.
Lastly, the secret to compost [fast and well] is to have the proper ratio of green/brown, to have the correct amount of moisture and to have enough oxygen for the bacteria to thrive, so don't hesitate to mix very well and rotate frequently.
To boost the starting process, add some old compost. I, me and myself, add 1/2 cup of Milorganite* type fertilizer.
So, to sum up:
Pro: Well designed
Con: Too small
I would buy again if they increase the size to at least 60 to 80 gal.
For those interested in 'pro'per composting:
- I have attached a list of Carbon to Nitrogen ratio for different materials. (Source Clemson University)
Adding worms to your compost: Yes but no! Only do it when your compost does not heat anymore. Once it has started to cure, it's OK to add worms, i.e. Red Wrigglers. If you do it too early you will either kill them or make them move elsewhere. I don't recommend adding them directly in the Yimby as it will get too hot when left in direct sunlight. Red Wrigglers do well at 75F. and do not like below 55 or above 90.
- Home brewed compost accelerator:
5 gal warm water (105F-110F.) Do not go over 120F.
1/4 to 1/2 cup of molasses or brown sugar. Last choice is white sugar.
1/2 cup unscented household ammonia (Extra nitrogen)
2 teaspoon active dry yeast.
Mix gently, let brew for about 2hrs, mixing from time to time.
The same recipe exist with beer and soda, beer is for the yeast, soda is for the sugar.
You can apply the mix with an Ortho Sprayer set at 8oz per gallon.
Spray that at the beginning of your compost pile and spray again once the compost is advanced. The first heat spike will kill the yeast.
If you really want to go the extra mile, add a pantyhose filled with 4 cup of compost or good soil and aerate the mix with a small fish tank air pump.
And finally, for the nut job, there is the Harvard University bacterial / fungal compost tea. Normally to use on trees or lawn, but it boosts the curing and helps break down the though bit faster. Please Google green.harvard.edu + make your own compost tea
It requires Fish Hydrolysate and Kelp, all available on Amzn
The above recipe has been featured in the TV show Ask This Old House, S8E9
Sources:
Clemson University
Harvard University green.harvard.edu
Style: ComposterVerified Purchase
Too small for proper composting
Reviewed in the United States on November 14, 2017
It's a nice summer composter, but absolutely not a all year round composter, unless your climate is warm all year round.Reviewed in the United States on November 14, 2017
The 37 gallons size is too small for your compost to reach critical mass and self-generate enough heat.
Furthermore, even if the double compartment seems like a good idea at first, it divides the 37 gal by half, and you end up with 18.5 gal. The 37 gal size is barely enough for 2-3 mower bags.
Due to its size, I also find the doors to be also a bit small.
I have 2 compost piles, and one tumbler. The same mix (30% green / 70% browns) with home-brewed starter, reached ~150F./ 65C. in 24hrs in the compost pile. The tumbler remained at barely above outside temp.
It is now November in MA, and I have two blocks of semi-frozen far-far-away to be composted mix. I don't foresee anything happening before June now.
I will definitively remove the compartment separator next spring.
Assembly: As many times stated by other reviews, you'll need some yoga abilities, hence a second person to help is highly recommended. I strongly suggest to not tighten all the screws at first, but to just pinch them (including the legs) and once the assembly is complete (done on a flat surface), tighten them.
Screws: For once, a company is giving you few more screws, and that is highly appreciated. That being said, I would have highly appreciated to have Allen,Torque or Phillips heads instead of those ridiculous square-flat heads. The nuts are Flange Serrated locknuts, and that's a good thing.
I like the indentations that help mixing the compost, the vents and also the fact that is not fully waterproof: Some tumblers are, and if you have too much moisture, it cannot escape, collects on the bottom and you start brewing a stinky anaerobic wet mush.
Lastly, the secret to compost [fast and well] is to have the proper ratio of green/brown, to have the correct amount of moisture and to have enough oxygen for the bacteria to thrive, so don't hesitate to mix very well and rotate frequently.
To boost the starting process, add some old compost. I, me and myself, add 1/2 cup of Milorganite* type fertilizer.
So, to sum up:
Pro: Well designed
Con: Too small
I would buy again if they increase the size to at least 60 to 80 gal.
For those interested in 'pro'per composting:
- I have attached a list of Carbon to Nitrogen ratio for different materials. (Source Clemson University)
Adding worms to your compost: Yes but no! Only do it when your compost does not heat anymore. Once it has started to cure, it's OK to add worms, i.e. Red Wrigglers. If you do it too early you will either kill them or make them move elsewhere. I don't recommend adding them directly in the Yimby as it will get too hot when left in direct sunlight. Red Wrigglers do well at 75F. and do not like below 55 or above 90.
- Home brewed compost accelerator:
5 gal warm water (105F-110F.) Do not go over 120F.
1/4 to 1/2 cup of molasses or brown sugar. Last choice is white sugar.
1/2 cup unscented household ammonia (Extra nitrogen)
2 teaspoon active dry yeast.
Mix gently, let brew for about 2hrs, mixing from time to time.
The same recipe exist with beer and soda, beer is for the yeast, soda is for the sugar.
You can apply the mix with an Ortho Sprayer set at 8oz per gallon.
Spray that at the beginning of your compost pile and spray again once the compost is advanced. The first heat spike will kill the yeast.
If you really want to go the extra mile, add a pantyhose filled with 4 cup of compost or good soil and aerate the mix with a small fish tank air pump.
And finally, for the nut job, there is the Harvard University bacterial / fungal compost tea. Normally to use on trees or lawn, but it boosts the curing and helps break down the though bit faster. Please Google green.harvard.edu + make your own compost tea
It requires Fish Hydrolysate and Kelp, all available on Amzn
The above recipe has been featured in the TV show Ask This Old House, S8E9
Sources:
Clemson University
Harvard University green.harvard.edu
Images in this review
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