- Zortrax M200 3D Printer with Plus Parts set and Side Covers
- Highest-rated plug-and-play desktop 3D printer
- Plus Parts set includes side spool holder and upgraded cable clips
- Side covers improve performance and safety
- Build volume = 200 x 200 x 185 mm, Layer resolution = 90 microns
Zortrax M200 Pro 3D Printer with Official Side Covers - Includes Black Z-ABS Filament and Parts Kit
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The Zortrax M200 Pro includes the top-rated Zortrax M200 desktop 3D printer, the Zortrax Plus Parts set, and the Zortrax M200 Side Cover set. The reliable, efficient and extremely precise Zortrax M200 3D printer has already won the hearts of thousands of users. The high 3D print quality the Zortrax M200 offers make it a top choice among both designers and industrial companies. Like all Zortax products, the Zortrax M200 works within an integrated system. This is why it prints with dimensional accuracy and repeatability that is unique to its segment. A large workspace and a wide selection of professional quality materials with different properties make the Zortrax M200 a very versatile tool. The M200 Pro's Plus Parts set includes a side spool holder and upgraded cable clips for easy filament changes and monitoring. The Zortrax M200 side cover set helps to maintain a stable temperature across the entire model during the printing and cooling process, so that the risk of warps and cracks on your prints will be even lower. The M200 side cover set also helps to prevent any accidental injuries from the printer's hotend and heated bed.
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I'm an engineer by education and experience with a critical mind; if something doesn't perform as well as it's marketed, then you can expect me to call it out. However, that's not the case with this machine. Out of the box, it required absolutely zero setup except for putting the filament tube in the extruder and loading filament through it. All put, I was printing the test object ("rook.zcode" file) in 10 minutes. Was absolutely curious how it would look and how detailed the little staircase inside would be so I waited patiently for it to print out. Default layer height appeared to be 0.09mm (but could perhaps be 0.19mm) and printed in about just over an hour. The end product was stunning! The first thought was "wow" (and I'm not one to wow those lacking products!)
The perforated bed deserves special mention, though. Owners of almost all other 3D printers will not understand how game changing a perforated bed is in a 3D printer. During raft printing, the filament just slightly melts into the tiny holes and thus, because of just this simple event, the model is guaranteed to stick and not move during the remainder of the print process. You do not need to bother with any glues or tapes or special beds with this machine. It's a big time saver and allows me to start a print on the machine without having to stand next to it for the first 30 minutes to ensure solid initial contact of the raft with the bed. The longest print I've made so far lasted 22 hours and it didn't move even a bit during the whole time.
My only complaint, which is minor, is that the 3D printed filament holder that you're supposed to attached to the back of the machine broke too easily when I was installing it and accidentally pressed on it too hard. It's no big deal honestly as it can easily be replaced by printing yourself a new (and better) one. But frankly, a "real" filament holder should come with the machine, perhaps even an enclosure. The machine is made out of high quality metal but comes with a 3D printed filament holder?!
A bit of a secret: consumer FDM 3D printing machines are pretty much all the same (same motors, same belts more or less, similar bearings, same basic extruder design, fundamentally the same code) and hardware wise, there is very little difference between a sub-$1k machine and a $2.5k machine. The difference I believe, lays in the filament quality and tuned settings for the filament you are printing with. Zortrax apparently only chooses great filament for their printers (which I think is actually true) and limits the filament choices in their slicer program to only those, likely because they have already time tested and chosen the ideal settings (temperature at certain points during printing, fan speeds, extruder speeds, movements) that allow you to make the best prints you can make with that type of filament. I'm tempted to try 3rd party nylon filament (Zortrax doesn't offer their own, at least not yet) but probably won't because I don't want to break or more likely jam anything inside. If I stick to Z-filament then I can rest assured the M200 will print anything and everything reliably as advertised.
My next print was a jet engine fan that took up almost the entire print area. Unfortunately, I chose 0.09 layer height and normal printing speed not knowing what I was getting myself into. After 22 hours of non-stop printing, the final product came out very well. I chose 10 degree supports instead of the recommended 20 degree supports and the edges of the fan blades clearly didn't come out as well as the rest of the object did. The supports themselves were very easy to remove. You simply grab an edge and pull and large pieces of the support comes off with virtually no residue on the actual printed object. Same with the raft, pull and it comes off nicely. Really easy, about 2 minutes total for something that big.
Then I tried another part for the jet engine assembly at 0.19 layer height and fast printing speed. Almost no difference in quality. I sliced a 0.09 version and also fast printing speed just to see the difference in printing ETA and turned out to be 15-20% less time. Will probably stick with 0.19 layer height for less critical parts although it's still totally fine quality.
Overall, this is a great machine at a very attractive price. The moral of the review is that this printer IS RELIABLE and the results will NOT DISAPPOINT. Did 5 prints so far totaling 40 hours so far and each was done perfectly when I woke up in the morning or came home from work. There is no reason to spend another thousand on a different machine or to keep looking around. Unless you have a huge budget and afford a Stratasys machine, I'd say go for it but otherwise this is the FDM 3D printer you should get. (Yes, formally Zortrax says this printer uses LPD or whatever it's called but in essence it's still clearly FDM.) I highly recommend it. Just don't print with ABS. I did and the vapors already made me sick. I'll be sticking with Z-ULTRAT for all my future prints. Actually, just ordered over $700 in filament - can't wait!
First, I absolutely love the reliability and quality I've seen and would make this purchase again. The zortrax has been solid. The print quality is phenomenal. So, that said, a few flaws that I think are worth knowing.
For all the successful prints I've had, the most common problem is that even with a perforated plate, parts of the plate become clogged with filament or just don't heat as well, I'm not sure, but prints don't stick well. I've pulled the plate a few times, cleaned it with solvents and blasted air, and that helps for a while, but that is one of the areas of maintenance that you will have to deal with from time to time.
The zortrax is good enough that even prints that start peeling from the plate don't turn into a spaghetti type failure, but a lopsided failure. I've not had a single spaghetti print, just misformed prints when it peels. Typically you notice it happening on an area of the plate and can still keep working on other areas of the plate that do stick well, then a few prints later best to pull the plate and clean it.
Now, pulling the perforated plate and cleaning it is a massive pain, thanks to the 16 tiny screws that you need to remove to separate it from the heating plate, and after cleaning the plate a few times several of the screws have become stripped and very hard to remove. I've ended up using a dremel and cutting slots in every single screw so I can get them out with a flat-head screwdriver because so many of them have stripped out.
So, these are the inconveniences, but I would still get this printer, I still love it. There is one more flaw though that I feel is just insane, because it's such an obvious design flaw. On the back of the perforated plate is a small wire connection. A tiny connection, very easily damaged and sitting right there waiting to be dinged or bumped and every print, every single print you make you will be scraping off the plate and risk damaging this tiny connection that will render your printer useless. For a year I've been able to avoid damaging it, I only scrape away from it at every angle to avoid it, but even doing this, the spatula has slipped and I finally brushed it and broke it. Couldn't even feel it, but the next print I got one of the dreaded errors and sure enough, one of those tiny pin connections had been damaged. There is no fix, you have to buy a new plate. ($60) Yes, it's my fault, but I had this same critique from the day I opened it, it's just a terrible design to leave such a delicate part so exposed. I hope if you get this machine you will never ever have this problem.
So that's why I dinged a star, but I would buy it again. The slicing software is really good, it's annoying that you have to dig up your machine serial number every time you need to update the software, but still worth it for this printer.
Regarding the seller, Octave. Package was here in half the time Amazon quoted, packaging was sufficiently protective, and the box had a fragile sticker on every surface. Everything arrived in perfect condition. I also noticed they do their own check on printers when they receive them, and make sure everything is intact and functional before sending it on to you. They share the printed checklist they went through. Nice touch. The Octave doors are a great addition for preventing contaminate intrusion, and it just looks more complete with them on.
A happy camper with this one so far.
Most recent customer reviews
had a problem with curling prints. bought a new heat table. it fixed the issue.Read more