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Wilkins 1-NR3XLDU 1" Pressure Reducing Valve
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- Designed for installation on potable water lines to reduce high inlet pressure to a lower outlet pressure
- Integral strainer makes this device most suitable for residential and commercial water systems that require frequent cleaning of sediment and debris
- Direct acting integral by-pass design prevents buildup of excessive system pressure caused by thermal expansion.Maximum Working Temperature (F):180
- Balance piston design enables the regulator to react in a smooth and responsive manner to changes in system flow demand
- Provides protection from inlet pressure changes
|Connector Type||Double Union Connections|
|Ean||0612052068473 , 0612052076379|
|Included Components||Pressure Reducing Valve|
|Is Assembly Required||false|
|Number of Items||1|
|UPC||612052068473 , 612052076379|
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About Zurn Industries
Zurn Industries, LLC is a provider of advanced water solutions, including drains, rough plumbing, finish plumbing, PEX pipe and fittings, and water safety and control products. Our products deliver time-saving installation for contractors and the lowest total cost of ownership for building owners. Our technology tools simplify the specification process for engineers, and Zurn Connected Products provide building maintenance personnel with real-time insights to manage costs and minimize risks.
Zurn Wilkins NR3XL Pressure Reducing Valve
The Zurn Wilkins NR3XL Water Pressure Reducing Valve with integral strainer is ideal for residential applications. The durable composite bell housing resists corrosion, and the cartridge design is easy to repair.
- For more information, visit our official website.
Benefits Of Zurn PRVs
Composite cartridge and bell housing offers superior strength and corrosion resistance.
Ease of Maintenance
Wilkins 1" Pressure Reducing Valve, Lead-Free, Double Union FNPT. Designed for installation on potable water lines to reduce high inlet pressure to a lower outlet pressure. The integral strainer makes this device most suitable for residential and commercial water systems that require frequent cleaning of sediment and debris. The direct acting integral by-pass design prevents buildup of excessive system pressure caused by thermal expansion. The balance piston design enables the regulator to react in a smooth and responsive manner to changes in system flow demand, while at the same time, providing protection from inlet pressure changes.
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and sweated the remaining piece out of the tee it went into. The hardest part was getting the solder out of the Tee. I mounted the new valve in the lower union then was able to determine the length of copper need to complete the installation. once I had that figured out, I dry fit everything once I new it was good Pulled the regulator out and soldered vin the new union and copper into Tee. You do not want solder the valve with the rubber gaskets installed your better off to solder the brass coupling pieces before you install the copper into Tee. Also make sure you have the tightening nut on the copper piece before you solder, nothing worse than having to sweat it off. Then I just installed the valve with the gaskets didn’t break my arm tightening it. Turned the water on all was good. BTW sweat & sweating is soldering or unsoldering.
Now How does it work: like charm works like it should. Adjustment: As other mentioned the factory setting 55psi? it was off I was at about 45psi so this was no surprise, your inlet pressure Is going to regulate what kind of adjustment the internal spring is going to need. My house was at 80+ psi I set the regulator at 65 psi ( I have a gauge installed in my system) with a sink running wide open and flushing a toilet at the same time I drop down to 60psi. After taking a shower It feels like I actually have more flow. I’m thinking after opening up the old regulator a pile of rust came out most the “metal” parts were corroding away probably flow was restricted. I’m pleased with the regulator works great, granted there’s always a chance you can get a defective part.
Should you try this yourself? That’s up to you myself being retired from the piping trades I thought it was pretty easy.
This is the third valve now in a 13 year old house so I question the durability. Both times, replacements were needed after the county replaced the water meter out at the street. Not sure if it’s coincidence or not.
I noticed that the shower pressure dropped noticeably when another family member flushed a toilet. That never happened before. Put my pressure gauge on the front hose bib. Had 100# with nothing running (too high) and dropped to 40# when the kitchen faucet was turned on (too low). This indicates a bad valve. The factory setting is 50#. There’s numerous opinions on what’s optimal but that’s too low for a large house with numerous fixtures. After installation I adjusted up to 60# and see no drop on my gauge when several faucets are open, as it should be. To do this job right, you’ll need a pressure gauge that you can buy here for less than $10 or at the big box store in the plumbing or irrigation aisle.
I deducted one star for lack of durability, also the old BR4 came with a sediment screen/washer for the incoming side and this one only has a washer. I cleaned and reused the old one.