Beware, you cannot lubricate this machine, you have to have it serviced by a technician. I just learned this from Brother customer service. Look in your manual, you will see no lubricating instruction, I thought that the manual had a glitch and emailed customer service. Boy, was I surprised at their answer. I don't know what your area charges for service on a sewing machine, but mine is $80. This is a throwaway machine, people. Believe every bad review you see.
I am trying to get in touch with the Brother sewing machine co. I cannot find a phone # anywhere. My machine model # XL 3500 will NOT fill the bobbin, it just hums. I can't sew if I can't fill my bobbin. I suppose I'll have to throw mine out too. I would like to have it fixed but, where do I go to do that ??
Call Brother at 1-877-276-8437 . Website, www.brother-usa.com Sometimes, the bobbin winder lever is not engaging, try moving it back and forth a few times. I am going to get rid of mine when it needs to be lubricated because I will not pay $80 to have that done. If, your manual does not list lubrication, that is the tip off. I hope if enough of us call them and complain that we should have been warned in advance & not told later. If, your machine is new, I would take it back unless they can help you with the bobbin winder problem, and it would be an excellent time to get a different machine that you can do the maintenance. I am lucky enough to have another machine, Singer 7258 Stylist and it easily the best machine I have ever owned. It even beats my $1000 Necchi.
Go to Brother site, absolutely do NOT oil this machine. http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/BSC/public/us/us/en/faq/faqh/000000/000500/000029/faqh000529_001.html?reg=us&lang=en&c=us&prod=hf_cs6000btieus&page=FaqEndPage Sounds like someone is misinformed. I have a a 5 yr old, never oiled, works fine.
Most sewing machines today suggest you bring them into a store for lubricating. The quilt store in our area gives free estimates for any sewing machine repairs (Setauket, NY). They charge about $60 to overhaul the machine. I put one drop of sewing machine oil in the bobbin case only periodically & use the brush to clean any lint as per the owner's manual.
I had this machine for several years before upgrading. It should not need to be oiled with proper mantainance, as the instructional DVD will tell you. Just clean the lint out peroidically, and it should be good to go. If it has frozen on you, then something has gotten caught in the workings or it has just gotten way too hot. I cannot imagine how that owuld happen however. i could sew on mine for hours at a time.
I'm thinking of buying this so I'd like to see more discussion on this and related topics. For people with older machines who say "no problem," please remember that most products of all kinds have deteriorated in quality since 5 or 10 years ago.
I bought my Brother CS6000i August 2010 and had barely used it since purchase. I started using it more regularly the last four months. This machine was always stored and used properly (and kindly); I read the owner's manual and followed it. Last night it locked up on me (sewing light fabrics for about 20 minutes on and off)...I found the authorized repair store and took it in today. Lucky me! It's out of warranty and they want $175 upfront to "service it" without any idea what is, or might be, wrong with it. Service does not include any new parts that might be required. Since I paid less than that for the whole machine, I decided I need a real sewing machine and bought myself an older Viking.
It's a cute, light machine that is generally useful. Would I recommend it to someone that wants to tinker? Sure, if they are stuck on having digital and more options...I opted for something that has stood the test of time, is made of real steel and has less stuff to break. As for the 6000i? I'm going to take it apart myself...after all, what good is a "25 year warranty" when the important part expires after a year anyway? Please...
The instruction manual specifically stated not to oil the machine. What is recommended is that the lint be removed regularly and instructions are provided on how to get this done; it is rather easy to perform. I have been using my machine with great results. I purchased it this year online from Amazon. What is very important I have come to realise, is using good quality thread. It minimises the amount of lint that is trapped in the machine.
The reason manufacturers now recommend that you bring the machine in for oiling is because they know people do not read directions, screw up the machine, then blame the make/model/manufacturer. The manual clearly states that the machine should not need to be oiled in between normal maintenance. And that maintenance should be done by a sewing machine tech and involves cleaning, lubricating and setting tensions properly for the variety of stitches most people use.
As for insisting a machine be made "like in the old days" as many people on sewing specific sites often say, that is a silly and uneducated observation. Those clunky metal machines simply cannot do what we modern sewers demand of our machines. And if you go back in time to when those machines were new, and look at the cost, you'll find that in 1960's dollars those machines cost a lot more than this one here in relative money. My mother's machine from the mid-fifties was one such machine and cost my father half of that month's mortgage payment. I think the same cannot be said of the Brother 6000.
I learned to sew on a Singer industrial machine with separate head and motor. It had one stich and a giant foot pedal to control speed. That machine needed to be oiled weekly and cleaned incessantly. We used it six to eight hours a day and it performed accordingly.
I bought the 6000 as a refurbished unit, not new. Even though it was a refurb it has performed flawlessly for three years. I sew about an hour a day during the week and two or three hours per day on the weekends. If anyone thinks new machines made of new materials are not as good as the old clunkers made from steel, they just don't get out enough, and certainly do not know enough about sewing.
As far as thread - NO machine likes cheap thread and if you care about what you are sewing, why would you use cheap thread anyway? I buy the best material, including fabric, thread and accessories and that quality is reflected in my garments and designs.
You can't get a better sewing machine at this price point than this one.
Once you get your skills in order, once you start sewing Vogue patterns, designing wedding dresses and sewing yards and yards of fabric per day, well then you need a better machine. If you're making kids clothes, small home decor pieces, mending jeans, tailoring blouses or skirts, and you sew two or three times per week, then this is your machine.
Those of you that sew a lot and complain about this machine need to upgrade. I think eight to twelve hours per week on this machine is the load for which it was made.
All I can say with certainty is this: Always buy thread from sewing specialty stores, including Amazon and other online stores, but only if they have online product reviews; always buy lint-free thread; always follow your manufacturer's recommended thread and needle combinations for the type of project you're sewing; never use low quality thread, even for crafty or test projects, the dollar you save in thread will be spent ten-fold when your machine needs to be professionally cleaned and adjusted; always clean your bobbin case and other accessible areas with compressed air or a small vaccum EVERY time you change a bobbin. The following information was copied from manufacturer recommendation charts, to read the full summary, check out quiltbug.com.
General Piecing Thread Aurifil 50wt Mako Cotton Thread, an Italian long staple Egyptian mercerized cotton thread, is a smooth, strong thread with a beautiful sheen. It is strong and smooth enough for high-speed commercial embroidery machines and sergers. Used for both machine piecing and quilting, this thread is available in both varigated and solid colors. Coats Dual Duty Plus Thread Cotton wrapped polyester thread. Good all purpose thread. Coats and Clark Star thread. A bit on the linty side. YLI Select is an extra long staple cotton thread which is is ideal for piecing, appliqué, background quilting and all-purpose sewing. No knots, no fuzz, no problems. This special 100% cotton thread Hand stitchers love it because of the ease with which it pulls through fabric. Machine sewers enjoy the way each stitch blends with the fabric and with the lack of fuzz and lint left in their machines. Madiera Cotona 80wt is a fine yet strong 100% double mercerized cotton thread with a soft matte finish. Metrosene All Purpose Polyester Thread Long fiber polyester staple. High quality all purpose thread. 100/3 Metrosene All Purpose Polyester, long fiber polyester staple. High quality thread for all machine sewing projects. 100/3 Mettler Silk Finish 50-weight 3-ply 100% cotton sewing thread. This top quality thread is made of 100% Egyptian long staple and mercerized cotton. Soft and lustrous, it is shrink resistant and safe to iron. Use for machine sewing and hand sewing. Recommended for piecing and applique. Colorfast, fade resistant, boil proof. Do not bleach. Gutermann Natural Cotton Thread. 100% mercerized cotton - 50 wt. For all applications which require pure cotton. Also can be used as a top thread for embellishments Valdani comes in a variety of weights in 450+ colors. The 35 wt is better for hand quilting. YLI Heirloom Cotton 100% long staple cotton. 70/2 ply and 100/2 ply. 70/2 ply is used for piecing with a 70/10 Jeans needle. If used in the bobbin, be sure to fill slowly. 100/2 ply is used for lace and fine applique work also with a 70/10 Jeans needle.
I bought my Brother CS6000i about 1-1/2 years ago. I'm not a very experienced sewer but most of what I've read in reviews is pretty true. However, I have not had any problems with the machine freezing. I have found that the tangle of thread under the lower side does happen, but in my experience the instruction manual lead me in the right direction regarding quality of thread, using the same thread for both sewing and bobbin and keeping the area under the bobbin cleaned out. I did find once when I sewed rather fast for a long period of time something under or around the metal piece under the foot must have gotten warped. But, I do think it's been a great machine for me~not too expensive but has enough stitches to keep things interesting. I'm hoping my skill at sewing will outgrow this machine, but in the meantime, this is a great little machine. I do have 2 complaints, 3 actually. I wish the LCD panel lit up~I have to tip the machine backwards to see I've got everything adjusted right, I have big hands and it's hard for me to thread the needle by hand. The automatic threader has been the only thing to stop working. Also, I've had a hard time finding extra bobbins. The bobbins don't hold enough thread them.
Do not use metal bobbins with the CS6000. They are not spec'd for that machine and the case in which the bobbin sits will not stand up to metal spinning. TI use the SA156 bobbins they sell on Amazon as CS6000 compatible and they work just fine and are inexpensive. I have 40 of them prewound with every kind of thread I have so I never need to interrupt a project to wind a bobbin. Singer and other brand bobbins are not compatible and will only ruin your experience when you sew.