- 1KG net (approximately 2.2 lbs) Filament with Clear Spool
- eSUN PETG 3D Printer Filament Vacuumed Sealed With Desiccant; 16 colors to choose from; Semi-Transparent Colors: blue, magenta, yellow, natural, green, orange; Solid Opaque Colors: solid black, solid white, solid red, solid blue, solid gray, solid green, solid yellow, solid purple, solid gold, solid silver
- 1.75mm Filament Diameter (Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm)
- Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature 235C - 250C
- Spool Diameter: 8" - Spool Width: 2.50" - Spool Hub Hole Diameter: 2.05" - Inner Circle Diameter: 3.5"
eSUN 3D 1.75mm PETG Black Filament 1kg (2.2lb), PETG 3D Printer Filament, 1.75mm Solid Opaque Black
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Specifications for this item
|Number of Items||1|
|Material||PETG (Polyethylene Terephtalate Glycol-modified)|
|Outside Diameter||1.75 millimeters|
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eSUN 3D Printer Filament: PETG
Extrusion Temperature Range: 235_ to 250_
Plate temperature: 80~90_ or without heated
Printing speed: 30~60mm/s
Moving speed: 30~60mm/s
Advantages of PETG: PETG is an excellent material which combines the advantages of both PLA and ABS. Odorless; Little shrinkage rate; hydrophobicity (Will not absorb water and as such clog the extruders); Outstanding toughness and high impact strength; Good liquidity (flows smoothly); High mechanical strength and excellent flexibility; Good glossy finish;
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Strength and repeat-ability or PLA and the temperature resilience of ABS without the smell. Natural PETG is pretty much food safe (look for FDA approval anyways) but the colored variants might not be because of the dyes used, so don't go printing hot pink sippy cups for your 4 year-old.
Get your multiplier, and drop it a percentage point. I found my multi to be 1.05, so i lowered it to 1.04. Multipliers seem to be very system dependent and some people run their PETG multi's down as far as 0.8, don't be afraid. It shouldn't be higher than 1.10, however, so check your filament diameter again. Running a bit thin on filament helps to keep from a filament buildup on the hotend.
Get your Z-offset, then raise it a bit. I print at about 0.025mm higher than dead 0. Similar to running the multi low, this helps keep from stray filament buildup on your hotend with the first layer. Anyone coming from ABS will want to smoosh their filament onto the build plate, resist this urge. any squeezing of the filament will just scrape it up onto your hotend, and you will pay for it later.
Retraction you will need a decently agressive retraction profile; on my MakerGear, I run 1.2mm at 50mm/s. any long travels will ooze still so you want to keep shorter travels in mind. Wipe and Coast are good settings to use as well. Consult your machines forums on what others are doing there. Z-hop is unnecessary because there should be little to no curling, but a fragile print *might* benefit from Z-hop.
Slow down. literally, take your speeds that you're comfortable with and cut them in half. PETG does great at slower speeds, the more the hotend dwells in an area, you get better adhesion and the stronger this stuff is. you may want to use infill patterns that let your nozzle dwell in the area more, like honeycomb.
avoid trying to push out too much filament. My extrusion widths are the same across the board with perimeters, infill, top, bottom you name it. Some people have reported success with as much as 150% extrusion widths, but you're playing with fire, or strings and blobs really.
If you are having trouble, comment below and I can try to help, but consulting your specific machine's community might be best.
The problem I found with ABS is that it tends to be somewhat brittle and I had a few parts that had problems with the layers separating under stress. There is also a problem with warpage on larger parts.
When I changed to this filament, I found it to be much stronger and a bit more flexible. This helped a lot when assembling parts.The layer adhesion is amazing. I have yet to make a print that failed to stay together. I have printed parts that are about as large as my printer can handle (about 5-3/4 x 9 inches) and had no warping at all. This would have been very difficult when using ABS.
My general print settings are: Extruder Temp = 230C; Bed Temp = 75C; Travel Speed = 150mm/s and the bed is covered with Kapton tape.
I have replaced the stock extruder with a conversion to use a metal tube instead of the Teflon tube and it seems to be much better in general and it allows higher extruder temperatures.
The bed adhesion to the Kapton tape is very good. It was difficult to remove the printed parts at first (using higher bed temperatures) but I discovered that it much easier when allowing the bed to cool more before attempting it. I also removed the top cover of the printer (as you would to print with PLA) to allow the bed to cool more as it prints with much better results.I found that using this removal tool was perfect.(www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
After allowing the print to cool for just 5 minutes and using this tool allows even the biggest parts to pop off the bed with no damage to the Kapton tape at all.
The slight flex that this filament gives to the finished parts is my reason for using this as much as I do. I tend to build more complex parts in sections and then screw them together using threaded inserts or tap bearings into recesses printed into the parts. When using ABS I found that when fitting the inserts into the part occasionally split the part. Since using the eSUN PETG, I have yet to encounter that problem and I get very tight fitting inserts.
I have included some photos of a Focus Rail Slider that I designed and printed using this filament. The prints are .30mm layer thickness from a low poly count model used as a prototype so the surfaces are rougher than is possible with this filament. Also included is a photo of small locking clips printed at .20mm layer thickness to show the resolution of small parts printed using this PETG.
I highly recommend this filament for printing mechanical parts. I have used probably 20 to 25 different filaments over the last 3 years and this is by far my favorite for quality, cost and ease of use.
It took me a while to get things really looking good with it but once I figure out a few things.. everything else fell into place.
I'm using a Robo3D R1+ with a E3Dv6 hotend.
* Yes it DOES print better with a heated bed and it IS SO much better than ABS in my opinion. I like 70c for bed
* YES the warping is MUCH lower than ABS and even PLA (in my view)
* Yes it does string a bit more until you get the right temperature.
* Yes it IS stronger than PLA.
What I learned...
It seems to print better (for me) without the fan.
Start at the recommended high and keep lowering until you get good results.
PETG seems to have a "dull" color when you below the optimal temperature.
as soon as I reach the right temp (for me) it starts to take a bit of a glossy shine.
the difference between "dull" and "shine" seems to be about 2c I found my eSUN Black PETG perfect temp to be at 249c.
I was able to actually change the look of a printed item to get a "dull" look or a shine by the temp of the entire print job.
For me this actually makes it preform as two different materials making it more versatile. The dull looking object was also just as strong as the glossy item.
Black was the easiest to find the right temp because my temp trick works the best with that color.
The green does the same but harder to see with the flashlight due to the color.
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