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Nike Men's NIKE REVOLUTION 2 RUNNING SHOES 11 Men US (BLACK/WHITE/VARSITY RED/CL GRY)
Nike Men's NIKE REVOLUTION 2 RUNNING SHOES 11 Men US (BLACK/WHITE/VARSITY RED/CL GRY)
Offered by AMAZING PRIME DEALS
Price: $50.00
20 used & new from $50.00

46 of 49 people found the following review helpful
2.0 out of 5 stars Great comfort, but terrible quality..., July 7, 2015
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I really LOVED these shoes, initially. They feel amazing and helped my get through a 10 hour work day on a hard concrete surface. They don't hurt my feet what-so-ever and they actually helped with my back problems quite a bit. My only issue with them was with the stitching of the two different materials near the baby-toe area. On BOTH of my shoes, there is now a nickel sized hole. This began 2 months after purchase. I've never ran in them like intended. These have merely been walking shoes for work while I'm on my feet all day. My toe nails are short, so that's not the cause. It's simply poor placement of the mating of the two materials. You've got the tougher toe strip that you see in the pictures and then you've got the lighter, breathable, web-like material beyond that. Where those two materials are stitched together, it doesn't hold. I've attached a picture of one of the two shoes. My finger is pressed up against the inside so you can see the size of the hole. Both shoes are identical as far as far as the hole goes. No pair of Nike's should start to fall apart after only 2 months. Maybe that's why they aren't priced like the typical $150 Nike's. Who knows. I contacted the seller (Heart & Sole), but they wouldn't help in the matter, nor would Amazon. I guess worn merchandise is worn merchandise and I'm simply out of luck. Like I said, I really wanted to like these shoes. I could wear them all day long, but now I have to consider buying something else. They've progressively gotten worse. Not before long, they won't be wearable. Luckily I wear black socks...
Comment Comments (4) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Apr 8, 2016 9:28 AM PDT


TEKTON 3179 35mm Double-Face Soft Mallet
TEKTON 3179 35mm Double-Face Soft Mallet
2 used & new from $19.99

0 of 1 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Might as well be single-faced..., June 10, 2014
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I purchased this hammer for an AR build. The price was great. The weight of it was more than I expected, but that's not a bad thing. It feels nice and sturdy with some heft to it. The only part I was disappointed about was the fact that it seems that both heads are identical in feel and action. I've used both heads on different surfaces and even pushing your fingernail into it, they feel the same. I can't do anything that'll allow me to differentiate the difference between the two materials. I was really hoping for a stiff rubber feel on one side (which it offers) and more of a nylon feel on the other. The description does say "rubber" and "plastic" for the two heads, but really, it feels like two rubber heads. I contacted Tekton to see if they offered any replacement heads since that IS what this hammer is all about, but no. They only offer the two heads that come on this hammer. You would think they could offer a nylon, brass, steel, etc. That'd be nice. The reply I got from them was "the black head is a harder rubber compound while the transparent head is a polyurethane compound." Oh well. It'll suffice, but something that had a little more of a blunt strike would have been nice.
Comment Comment (1) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Jun 11, 2014 8:53 AM PDT


Lyman 49Th Edition Reloading Handbook (Hard Cover)
Lyman 49Th Edition Reloading Handbook (Hard Cover)
Price: $20.99
20 used & new from $20.99

5.0 out of 5 stars Everything I was hoping for..., January 15, 2014
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I've recently wanted to get into reloading. I've slowly been purchasing the parts to make this happen. Tediously, I've been reading up on forums and sites, but this book is everything you need to get started. The first quarter of the book is the technical aspect of reloading. The how-to. The why. The methods used. The materials. The workings of a round. Etc. The rest of the book is all the data for each specified caliber that you'll need when reloading. This has become my bed-side book at the moment. It's helped me to feel more confident that I can reload my own reliable ammo and not feel intimidated by the process. They say every reloader should have at least two manuals. I think this should most definitely be one. Another might give you a slight variation in the min./max. of the load grains. This is why you have more than one. It helps you to find a safe average. If ever you question a books data, refer to the powder manufacturers website or container. Books can potentially become outdated, which is why there's no many editions, but a manufacturer is always going to keep their stuff up-to-date.

This book is well written and a pleasure to read. It makes me excited to learn more and get more involved. There's a reason why it's one of the best selling reloading manuals that some consider to be a "bible" in the reloading world. Don't just buy one publishers book, but make this one of the few you do buy if you intend on getting involved with reloading.


Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler
Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler
Price: $39.26
38 used & new from $39.26

6 of 7 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Can't beat it..., January 15, 2014
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (Sports)
I recently got into reloading after months of research and reading up on the mandatory reloading manuals. The first step of reloading your old brass is cleaning it up. This does just that - and well. I acquired my walnut media from a pet shop. It's about half the price of actual "reloading media" despite the fact that it's the same stuff. I got 7lbs. for $10. My first load of 500 .40 S&W rounds took about half the bag (3.5lbs.). The manual says to fill your tumbler 2/3 full. Hopefully that'll help put things into perspective as to how much media you'll need. Also, your media is reusable. After reading up on forums, I did what it seems like a lot of seasoned reloaders do. I put my media in and then I put 2 cap fulls of Nu Finish car polish. Let this run without any brass for about 15-20 minutes. It'll be clumpy at first, but will dissipate within that amount of time. Then add 2 ounces of mineral spirits/paint thinner and let that run for a few minutes. Then add your brass and let it run for a couple hours. Your brass will come out cleaner than you can imagine. Nu Finish is ammonia-free and is one of the only safe polishes to do this with. The mineral spirits (preferably odorless) will help to clean up the carbon deposits and help to break away the crud within the casings. Some will say that running your tumbler for 30-45 minutes is "clean enough." Others, like me, prefer a like-new shine. From what I've read, this is achieved after 2-3 hours. My 500 casings came out shinier than factory new. I also took 2 used fabric softener sheets and cut them into quarters and threw them into the tumbler. They help to attract the light red dusting of the walnut shells and save you some of the hassle of clean-up.

Now, you can buy this tumbler in the kit form that comes with the rotary media separator. No thanks. I've read nothing but bad about that separator. At this moment, the kit is double the price than just the tumbler. Yeah, you get some corn media and polish, but you're better off with walnut and a method of separating that won't break on you. I made my own sifter that was about the size of a cat litter box using some 2x4 and some 1/4" mesh. When I'm done tumbling, I pour my batch onto the sifter over a littler box and give it about 60 seconds of some shaking and it's done. This method won't break on me and it was cheaper, as I already had the material on-hand. After sifting, I dump my brass onto a full size bath towel and fold it over and rub them around for a few. This creates an even higher gloss and also rids the casings of the remaining fine dust.

Lastly, learn from my mistake. My first batch, I mixed in some .357, .38 and 9mm with my .40. Do one caliber at a time. I just happened to pick all the calibers that turned my brass into a matryoshka doll. The .357/.38 fit perfect into the .40. With the walnut in between the casings, it'll look them into place so they don't tumble free. You'll have to physically pick them out and pull them apart. If this happens early on, then you won't have the insides of those casings clean. A few had a 9mm inside of a .40 with a .357/.38 capping it off. Point being, tumble one caliber at a time if they have the chance of mating with one another. It'll spare you from having to run the tumbler again.

All-in-all, I'm very happy with it. It's quiet for what it is. People that complain about the noise, well, it's a TUMBLER! It tumbles brass. There's going to be some minor noise, but it wasn't as bad as I thought. I let it run in my well insulated garage and I couldn't hear it once I shut the door. I can't imagine these being any quieter. The noise isn't from the motor. Just the brass in the tub. If you need a tumbler, this is definitely worth the price.


Master Lock 90DSPT Gun Lock
Master Lock 90DSPT Gun Lock
Price: $9.29
51 used & new from $4.55

4 of 5 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Ruger GP-100 & Beretta PX4 Storm usage..., November 20, 2013
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I wanted a trigger lock for my new Ruger GP-100 revolver. The one that Ruger supplies you with is a large padlock that fits through the cylinder, but you can't close a normal handgun case lid while it's on the revolver. Here in CA, strict gun laws prohibit us to drive with an unlocked firearm. Ruger provides a cheap, hard plastic, form-fitting case with the revolver. As I left the gun shop, there was no way I was going to be able to put this padlock on and keep it in it's case. I figured a trigger lock would be much more suitable for the gun as well as the longevity of the cylinder (not to mention a foam form-fitting case being a must-have). I don't want the off chance of something like the cylinder getting bent during transport. I prefer not to have the lid of any case pushed up against it.

When reading other users reviews, I found very few people talking about what guns it did/didn't work on for them. C'mon people! Help some of us out! I looked all over for anyone even saying it worked on a revolver in general. I'm not 100% pleased with the lock, but I'll manage to make it work. I'm here to say that it fits OK on a Ruger GP-100, but it definitely doesn't fit on a Beretta PX4 Storm. On the GP-100, you have to have it at about a 35 degree angle, which the instructions say that's alright, but I'd rather it be at a horizontal position. The grip of the revolver is in the way, but like I said, you can angle it and make it fit. It's still tight and you can't wiggle it around. I have yet to try it on my shotgun, although I prefer my cable lock on something like that.

All in all, it'll work for transporting my firearm to the range. Nothing more. It's not a lock to keep a thief away. It's simply so I can abide by the law and be legal about transporting my firearm. That's about all it's good for. If you're worried about child safety - get a safe.


HiViz Ruger GP100 Handgun Sight
HiViz Ruger GP100 Handgun Sight

5.0 out of 5 stars A must for your Ruger GP-100, November 12, 2013
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I don't believe that there's much one needs to customize when it comes to a revolver, but I will say this is far better than the front site that comes stock. It took me less than 30 seconds to install. It fits snug and proper. From what I've researched on various forums, it seems that about 90% of users prefer the green litepipe over the red. Some of the reasoning I read to back up why this was is that the human eye can more easily acquire the color green than it can red, hence the reason a lot of the laser sites are switching from red to the viridian green. At the moment, I believe both are equally appealing and bright, but I do have the green installed to see what all the hype is about. It's merely personal preference. It comes with 3 green pipes, 2 red and 1 white.


No Title Available

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Careful with the allen wrench..., May 24, 2013
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
As another review had stated, you need to be careful with the amount of torque you put on these allen screws. I've never been a fan of allen screws when it comes to hardware. The screw heads always seem soft to me and if the wrench itself doesn't fit perfectly, it'll strip it out. With that being said, the allen wrench that comes with this mount does NOT fit perfectly. There's some headspace in there. You can get it tight, but don't do it as tight as you can. You can start to feel the wrench want to slip within the head of the screw. The previous reviewer had a good idea if this happens. You'll probably need to hacksaw a slit into the head and turn it into a flathead screw to get it out. Also, unlike many of the customers images show, this mount is not one that has any white makers mark on it. It doesn't say "Leapers," "UTG," or "870A." It's just a solid black piece of aluminum. My only other concern is that the milling of this billet is a little sharp under the top-mount where the shell is extracted and on the opposide side. It can be filed or buffed down, but it'd probably expose the true color of the aluminum and not be so appealing to the eye at that point. Just be careful. Seems like it could potentially cut a knuckle open if handled improperly. I do like the fact that it has the tunnel under the rail so you can still eye your bead if you'd like to not use your optic. It actually helps with lining up your bead. All-in-all, for $20, it's not so bad. It's nothing fancy, but it'll get the job done.


Berkley Fireline 125-Yard Fishing Line
Berkley Fireline 125-Yard Fishing Line
Price: $18.99 - $26.12

9 of 10 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Fireline continues to be the best..., March 13, 2013
Both my girlfriend and I use Fireline on our weekly outing to the Sacramento River. We use the 8lb. Fireline paired up with the 6lb. P-Line CFX fluorocarbon for a leader. This past week she caught a 20 pound king salmon with a 1/2oz. Kastmaster and the setup held up without a problem for nearly 30 minutes (the time it took to bring the fish in). The fish was released being it was out of season, but this line will forever be kept on our reels. I've snagged my treble hooked lures many times and been able to pull it free, only to find out the hook is bent downward, and that's with 8lb. Fireline. If it's strong enough to bend a hook before the line breaks, it's strong enough to bring in nice sized fish. We've tried PowerPro and find the stuff to be junk. As others have noted, the stuff breaks when you least expect it. Even a normal cast and your lure will fly into oblivion while you stand there with an O-face and think "wtf!" Also, wind knots seem to be much more prominent with that stuff. Nothing good ever came out of that line for us. Fireline is the braid of choice for us and with a proper leader, it can make a deadly setup.


Sniper Elite V2 - Playstation 3
Sniper Elite V2 - Playstation 3
Offered by We The Little People
Price: $19.90
86 used & new from $4.00

73 of 77 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Great for those that have patience and love to snipe..., May 4, 2012
I for one love to snipe in games and have all the patience in the world to stratigically plan out my moves. For me, it's more gratifying than the whole "run and gun." With that being said, this game will fulfill your craving if that's what you enjoy doing. You need to learn to plant tripwires, mines and throw rocks to get your enemies to look in another direction so you can sneak past. I've killed Hitler a couple times (only a perk for those that pre-ordered) and I've played the demo about 4 times and liked it enough to buy it. It still holds up. I've played maybe halfway through the campaign thus far and my only gripe at this point is when you're reloading your weapon and in the line of fire, if you're prone, you're stuck in your position til you're done reloading. If you're being fired upon, there's a good chance you'll die before you're done reloading. I suppose that's realistic, though. Also, I'm kinda bummed that I can't switch out my main rifle until a new mission starts. You can't switch it out like you can your machine gun or sidearm. At least that's what I've encountered. The graphics are pretty good and you can somewhat control the AI. If you custom pick the harder settings, the AI will work against you. Your enemies will make more of an effort to hide and they'll be more likely to seek you out. I don't know why you wouldn't pick the most realistic setting for the shots fired. You want the elevation and windage to be affected. I mean, that is why you would want a quality sniper game, right? You can disable that and make it so the bullet hits whatever your crosshairs are on, but there's no challenge or realism to that. Everyone knows about the kill-cam. That hasn't gotten old yet. I'm super picky about shooter games. I only buy a couple games a year and most often when I try something from a difference franchise, I'm disappointed. I'll say that this is the most enjoyable "new" game I've tried in quite awhile. I'm 31 and don't spend much time on games anymore. I'm an avid target shooter in real life and setting the realism of your sights to "realistic" will put forth a challenge that is somewhat similar to how it really is. Luckily, shooting a Mosin in this game won't leave a softball size bruise on your shoulder like it does in real life! ;-)

On an added note, you can't pause and save the game. It saves when it wants to. Sometimes I may be in a mission, but I don't have time to finish it. Although I've reached checkpoints, if I don't finish the mission, but I shut down the system, I've got the restart the entire mission when I resume later. C'mon now. That's just not cool. Checkpoints are pretty much only good for if you die. Don't start a mission you don't intend on finishing. I learned this the hard way during some of the lengthier missions.

UPDATE: Some people complain that the AI is too aware of your presence. I can say that I make a mission stretch anywhere between 60-90 minutes. That may seem long, but this is a sniper game and it's about strategy and patience. If it's taking you half that time to finish the mission, then guess what... You're probably rushing it, hence the reason they're aware of you so easily. You have to learn to tip-toe around, shoot when bombs in the distance are going off or bells are chiming. You have to wait for these moments so your shots aren't detected by others. If you do it right, you can get through an entire map without anyone ever being alerted of you and making you run for your life. Take that into consideration. You can't treat this game like you would CoD or BF. That's what makes it fun, though. It's different! Yes, the saving aspect sucks, but that too makes it more challenging. Just be aware of it is all. It's not worth turning your back on the game because of it.
Comment Comments (9) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Mar 3, 2013 3:25 AM PST


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