I'm a scientist and inventor; when I buy tools and instruments I buy the best. This gets... Expensive. I mention this because reviews would be more helpful if they were qualified with use and skill set and buying habits. I dislike second guessing a tool because someone thought it was too expensive; most all good tools are considerably more expensive than the cheapest option. This review will focus on performance with a nod to economy.
Needed an appropriate way to cut Al alloy for welding fabrication. It is ineffective and somewhat dangerous to use an oxide cutoff abrasive wheel for this. Al is soft and malleable and will clog and imbed the fiber cutoff wheel. This will cause the cutoff disk to bind and likely fragment; add that to the velocity of 5000-10,500 rpm and you have a recipe for disaster.
Some other drawback of the oxide abrasive type blades this replaces is 1.lots of sparks- no good in a laboratory setting or shop with flammables or sensitive electronics 2. Lots of heat from friction is stored in both the metal and the waste 3. The waste is a combination of black oxide and metal dust that is a problem for contamination of base metal for Welding, electronic equipment which will accrue thin layers of conductive dust that will eventually if left uncleaned; allow circuit to short across PCB boards and destroy equipment which lastly: can be replaced but your lungs cannot.
With these cold friction saw blades (and most any) it is important to allow the saw to cut with almost zero forced pressure. They kick out minimal sparks and exhaust manageable large shavings of metal instead of a plague of micronized dust. The metal is cool to warm to the touch if used correctly, not hot as would be with abrasive discs.
I planned (still do) to buy a cold friction saw (this blade is a cold friction type design) both a bench chop saw and circular hand saw. Rather than purchase $1000 in saws right after having just purchased a new Miller Dynasty 350 TIG inverter welder; I decided to take a gamble on this 28$ blade that would fit in my Milwaukee 18v Li saw.
If you do this method: be aware of RPM differences, and most importantly clean your saw and workplace of old sawdust and flammable material: less sparks does not mean "no sparks" Ferrous metals and Mg will generate more sparks than Al.
It cuts through T6 Tempered 6061 alloy .125" like Pb! It cuts through .250" T6 6061 as well, with little trouble even from the [compared to corded 15amp AC saws] low DC amperage capabilities of a battery saw.
The blade is still sharp as new after 6' linear cutting on aforementioned alloys; which is my one 'complaint'.. I'm eager to see how well it performs on mild steel .125"> but want to wait till I need to retire it from Al. A dull blade would bend Al instead of cutting it, so before I risk damaging the blade on steel, testing its limitations I want to be sure I use up its Al mileage. Not really anything to complain about.
At this point I would buy again
I still plan to purchase larger corded cold friction metal saws; this is an economical way to reap some of the benefits with less upfront cost and still maintain a large part of performance and quality.
Eager to find how well it does with ferrous metals.