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Showing 1-10 of 536 reviews(Verified Purchases). See all 565 reviews
on September 29, 2011
Ok, there are two things you need to know in order to have this work:
1. You MUST have a lens that has adjustable aperture. Newer Nikon lenses that a gelded "G" lenses, will be stuck on F22 aperture making it difficult to see anything through the lens. If you don't have a lens that has an adjustable aperture, do not buy this product.
2. You MUST set your camera to manual "M" mode. Otherwise you will get an error message because without electrical contacts, your camera doesn't realize that there is a lens on it. If you don't know how to use manual mode and don't want to learn, do not buy this product.

It is also good to note, there is a silver button on the side and to remove the extension tube from your camera, you must pull it back towards the camera, then rotate and remove. Much easier than breaking it off.

The negative reviews are laughable since most are user error/misunderstanding. For under 10 bucks, this is metal construction (not plastic) and is a nice way to get into playing around with macro photography.

Just a side note, I use this with a D90 and my 50mm AF-D (can not use with the AF-S since it doesn't have an aperture ring) and my 80-200mm AF-D. The 80-200 is a huge lens an a little difficult since the lens is very front weighted, but gives a little more distance from the subject. The 50mm focus point is about 8" from the lens, the 80-200mm is about 24" from the lens at 200mm.
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on May 5, 2015
I've been putting it to work lately and I am really enjoying the macro world. It's very lightweight, good metal and as some others have mentioned need to be careful with the threads. The only thing that keeps it from getting my 5 stars is that the interior is not matte. I've resorted to adding black gaffer's tape inside to reduce reflections and glare that affect bright images, specially the camera mounting ring. Other than that, it works. The attached image is using all the rings with a 50mm from ~1989.
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on September 21, 2010
I was a bit skeptical when similar extension tubes sell anywhere from $80-170. For only $10 I figured it was worth a chance and would not hold my expectations too high. I am an amateur photographer and wanted to experiment in some super macro setups. When I tested these tubes I used a Nikon D90 and an old rikoh 55mm f1.4. This lens is from my older 35mm collection and has manual aperture ring (reasons whey below).

I find extension tubes to be in a very specific niche in the world of photography. If you want to give macro photography a try, extension tubes, or bellows would be good start. From there a decent 1:1 dedicated macro lens would be the next step. It should be mentioned that the farther away the lens is mounted from the camera's sensor, the minimal focusing distance is also changed. This is a factor that sets an extension tube apart from a dedicated macro lens. Using my 55mm lens, and all three extension tubes, I guess the minimum focusing distance was around 1" with a 1:1.32 ratio. You can use a 100mm dedicated macro lens and have a working distance around 11" from your subject, get 1:1 ratios with AF and metering. If you want to try a bellows, you will needed to use an extension tube because the bellows rail will hit the grip on a D90. The smallest rings were enough to clear the grip.

If you are still considering these, then you know what they are used for and the price is probably the most attractive attribute. If you don't want to read the rest, they do what they are advertised to do.

All metal construction.
Three interchangeable sections can be mixed and matched to you preferences.
Solid. The all metal construction felt strong and no flexing between the joints or the bayonet mounts. Tested with my Nikon 18-200mm. Felt solid, but I would still support the lens.
Flexible. You can mix and match the three sections to get the focal range you are looking for. With all three sections, and the mounts attached you can get 1:1.32 ratio (larger than life size with super sharp results since there is only air in between).
Price. This is the items selling factor in my opinion. There are others and the closest alternative model is $80.

I have a few gripes, but should be expected from a set at this price.
The sections connect with very fine threads and are very easy to cross-thread if you are not careful. I have used similar products before, and over time I suspect they threads will wear down if they are repeatedly used.

When sections are mixed and matched the lens mounts do not stay in the same position. The higher-end tubes keep the lens mount in the same place so that the aperture ring will stay on the top of the lens (They separate the sections with individual bayonet mounts with lens contacts. Much nicer in my opinion compared to threads.). With these tubes it will depend on the tubes used. Forget about using bellows with these tubes. My D90 ended upside down, crooked and it was just not worth the operation.

Manual operation. This is not a real gripe, but a con for any extension tube. If you have one of the newer Nikon lenses then you will have trouble with these tubes. Focusing is not an issue since you can move either your subject closer, or the setup closer. Setting the aperture is another problem. I have a newer 35mm f1.8 and the aperture is controlled internally by the camera. It is set by default for f22. This is not an issue for most people since f22 will give you the greatest depth of field, especially when dealing with macro this is important. It will make focusing much more difficult it poor light situations. On the older lenses, I just set the aperture to 1.4, get the focus point exactly where I want it, then stop down to the desired aperture. You will also need to use "Manual" mode because the camera cannot detect the lens's aperture and adjust exposure accordingly.

Overall worth a try for $10, but be aware of the lack of automatic features and cross threading the sections.
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Edit 4/7/2015 - I still stand behind that this product is better than many of the reviews listed here state, in that these are capable of really nice macro shots, but as I've used them more with other lenses, I have to subtract one star due to how poorly they hold heavier lenses. With a 50mm f/1.8 lens, they stay attached pretty easily, but if you try with a heavier lens, they barely stay attached to the camera. You should not use these with a heavy lens without the lens being constantly supported. No matter how tight I try to make the connection, it separates very easily from the lens. The locking pin doesnt seem to do much.

Otherwise, for the price, if you need a quick fix for a macro shot, or just want to play around with macro before investing large sums of money in a real solution, this is worth it. Just be very careful to not allow your lens to fall off your camera!


Edit 7/19/2014 - I uploaded 4 sample photos I took today using this exact product taken handheld with a Nikon D7000 with a 1978 50mm f/1.8 lens connected to the Fotodiox Nikon Macro Extension 14mm Tube.


I see a lot of negative comments for this product by people who clearly either had the wrong expectations for this, or simply don't know how to use it.

This is a lens extender which allows you to take any lens you have and turn it into a Macro lens (Nikon calls it 'Micro' but its the same thing). Essentially you can get a LOT closer to your subject and take some really extreme closeups. Although this technically will work with any Nikon SLR, and with any lens, you will get much better results if you use it with a "non G" lens.

When a Nikon lens has a "G" in the model name, it means it does not have a manual aperture ring. This means that the aperture of the lens must be set electronically by the camera. This extender does not pass the electronic information from the lens back to the camera, so in essence, your camera does not have any control over the lens whatsoever. That means that neither autofocus or automatic aperture adjustment will work, you must do it manually.

All Nikon lenses have a manual focus ring, but only 'non-G' lenses have a manual aperture ring. Most DSLRs sold today come with G lenses, meaning that if you use them with this extender, the lens will be fixed at its narrowest aperture, which is usually f/22. While this will work, you will get extremely dark pictures, so in order to compensate for it, you'll need to leave the shutter open longer, which increases the chance of blurry pictures without a tripod. If you ever hope to use this extender and shoot hand-held pictures, you really need to find a non-G lens.

The good news is that used non-G lenses are super cheap online. A really good one is Nikon's 50mm f/1.8 lens. This lens is available in D and non-D variants, both will work. The important thing is to make sure it does not have a G in the model name. Search your favorite auction site or classifieds site and you can usually find these used for under $100. Nikon has made many different variants of this same lens over the years, so you can actually find ones from the late 70s or 80s which will work just as well.

There are many other lenses you could also use, some with zoom capabilities, and others with a longer focal range. They will all work as long as they have a manual aperture ring (non-G lenses).

So assuming you have a proper non-aperture lens, you can connect it to this extender and it should connect to your camera easily. Since the lens cannot communicate with your camera, the camera will assume that there is no lens attached, so the only way to use your camera is to either use it in Aperture Priority (A-Mode) or Full Manual (M-mode). Your camera will not work in any other mode.

Its also worth noting that you can use either a DX or FX camera. I own a Nikon D7000 which is a DX camera. I guess I should probably add that although this could work on a film camera, I wouldn't recommend it, since shooting with this ring involves a lot of trial and error to get nice pictures, so you'd waste a LOT of film trying.

This product is actually three different rings all connected together. I don't recommend using them all at the same time or even the 28mm ring, because although this will give you EXTREME close-ups, your depth of field will also be extremely small, plus you would need your subject to be literally less than an inch from your lens, which will introduce lighting problems. I've found that I get nice results with just the 7mm or just the 14mm ring. You can use them in any combination you want, but like I said, the more you use, the more extreme the magnification.

Now that you have your camera with the ring and your non-G lens attached to your camera, you have to decide whether you want to use Full Manual or Aperture Priority mode. I strongly recommend Aperture Priority mode as you can still benefit from the camera's internal auto-exposure detection. In order to do this, you need to go into your camera's Setup menu. On the Nikon D7000, the setting I need is called "Non-CPU Lens Data". I imagine its called the same or similar on other Nikon DSLRs.

Go in there and pick the first lens number if youve never used this feature before. For focal length, set the focal length to whatever the focal length is of the lens you plan to use. Nikon makes DX and FX DSLRs. The FX models are also called "full-frame" cameras and are more expensive. Since most (possibly even all, I'm not sure) non-G lenses are FX lenses, you need to make sure you set the correct focal length here. If you have an FX camera and an FX lens, then just input whatever the focal length of the lens is. If you have a DX camera (like my D7000) and you are using an FX lens, you need to adjust the focal length by 70%. So if you are using a 50mm lens (like I am), you need to actually input 35mm here. If you have a 105mm lens, you put in 74mm.

The next setting in here is "Maximum Aperture". You can play with different settings, but I recommend f/11. Whatever setting you choose here, you must also have the manual aperture ring on your lens set to the same thing. Getting these two numbers to be the same on the lens itself and in the camera setting is important if you want your exposures to be accurate.

Once you have entered your focal length and your maximum aperture, save your setting and get out of the menu.

Now, you are ready to shoot. A couple of more tips while shooting is that I recommend doing this in brightly lit areas. Shooting plants, insects, or flowers is easy to do in direct sunlight. I do not recommend trying to use a flash as chances are the camera itself will be in the way of the light.

Shoot a couple of test photos of whatever you're trying to shoot to make sure things look ok. Don't worry so much about the manual focus of your lens. You'll find that you have much greater control over focus by simply moving the entire camera to keep the image in focus.

Get used to contorting your body and moving the camera around to compose your shots and get them in focus. As I mentioned earlier, using this product involves a lot of trial and error, but once you get a little bit of experience using it, you can get some GREAT results!

So, in summary, I think this is a great product that allows you to shoot some great closeups with lenses you may already own. Even if you have to go online and find a used 50mm non-G lens, the combined price of that lens plus these extender rings is still FAR cheaper than buying a dedicated macro lens.

This extender is made entirely out of metal, is easy to use, inexpensive, and when used properly, works very well. I honestly can't think of any reason not to give it 5-stars, and for those who did, I truly believe they didn't understand what they were buying.
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on December 17, 2016
When working properly, these were great with my D5100 and the Nikon 18-200 lens. Overall, it is functional but the release tab on my extension tube kit snapped off after 2 uses when I was trying to take the tubes off my lens.
Immediate first thought: panic! Discovered that there wasn't a need for panic, the extension tube ring wasn't stuck on my lens forever: the release tab pushes a little metal pin up and down to lock the extension rings into place. When the tab snapped off, you can stick a tiny screwdriver into the hole, spin the pin around to the other side (see attached picture). The other side of this pin is recessed and you can use the mini screwdriver to push the pin so it will release the adapter from your lens.

I literally only used this extension tube kit twice before the release tab snapped off. I am very gentle with my equipment and am very disappointed in the quality of this tube. I've discovered that using a bent, thick paperclip, I can still use these extension tubes, but it is a huge pain..
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on July 1, 2014
While I'm not CRAZY about this, it is pretty cool and was pretty cheap. For anyone who is interested in doing some light macro photos, it's a good place to start. While it's hard to use and doesn't produce really high quality pictures, it's fun and cheap. For the price, I am not really going to complain, because it does do what it claims, just not very well.

The fact that none of the features like aperture control or auto focus don't work is a bit annoying. I've had to remove the unit the adjust the aperture. But again, it's so's not a big deal.

PRO: The price. It's made very well. Offers a few different settings with adding / removing the rings.

CONS: Very tough to get a good photo. Lack of camera control with the loss of AF and Aperture settings. Photos aren't very crisp.

Overall, if I had to do it again, I'd buy it. It's not the best, but it does ok. For the price, I wasn't expecting anything amazing...but I was hoping it'd be just a touch better.
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on December 23, 2013
It's a simple piece of kit and the majority of people unhappy either don't understand how to use it or don't understand what is required to use it. Some have mentioned the need for a manual lens but that gets ignored so I might as well add it again. YOU'LL NEED A MANUAL LENS. You'll need to be able to set aperture manually, the best option would be to use your manual nifty fifty. When attaching the lens to the tube don't click the lens all the way in so that the aperture isn't forced wide open and you're good to go. So that the depth of field isn't tiny shoot at at least F8, I shot water drops and flowers at F22 and everything is in focus with the 7mm ring.

Pro's = $12, does the job
Con's = Be careful with the fine threads on the rings, make sure you attach square on so as not to cross thread, that's just common sense though.

Edit: Added a photo to the gallery that I took today with it.
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on May 10, 2012
First, I'll echo the points made by others, do *NOT* buy and intend to use on a "G" lens as you'll be stuck on F22 which will be way too dark even in bright sunlight. *DO* leave your camera on Manual mode and adjust the shutter/ISO accordingly.

While only using it a few times since I bought it back in December (due to not having many bugs/flowers in winter), I've had decent results using this with my 50mm 1.8D on ~F11 as a medium between enough DOF for most subjects and not being too dark. I typically use the two 14+7=21mm tubes. Took this one of an ant the other day: [...] Could be a bit sharper, but I was holding the camera at an awkward angle--

Which brings me to my next point: LiveView w/LCD is your friend when using this at awkward angles where it's tough to see through the viewfinder. Also, I'd tinker with your focus just to get it close and then do the rest of your "focusing" just by moving your camera forward/back-- especially with bugs as your other hand fiddling with the ring is liable to spook them even more than how close you're already going to need to get.

I'd consider these tubes cheap "training wheels" to help you decide if you like macro photography with a DSLR enough to justify buying a dedicated macro lens.

Having tried these and liked these tubes, I plan to replace them with the very well reviewed 40mm 2.8 Micro as my next lens (at $275, I'd spring for this over $200 for Kenko tubes)

My dream macro setup is the much-praised 105mm 2.8 VR, but that's approaching $1000 and likely won't be in my budget for awhile yet.

A closing point, if you still have your P&S and decide you don't like using your DSLR for macro, a good P&S can take excellent macro shots and get into harder to reach places-- so don't rule that out.
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on June 8, 2015
These are very simple and effective for macro photography once you understand what they are, and how to use them. They're simple metal tubes that move your lens further away from the sensor, and thus allow focusing much closer than the lens by itself. They don't convey any metering information to the camera. However, they can still be used in APERTURE PRIORITY MODE (semi-automatic) and the camera will expose correctly. They work best with lenses that have an aperture ring (e.g. old manual focus AI lenses, or autofocus "D" lenses). You focus with the aperture wide open (such as f/1.8 or f/2), then close it down (such as f/11, f/16 or f/22) to take the picture. Closing down the aperture darkens the viewfinder but will increase the depth-of-field, which is generally desirable in macro photography. Lastly, there's a small screw on the front mount that should be removed. That screw keeps the aperture wide open even when you close it down, which is *not* what you want. Take it out so that your aperture will close down as you choose.
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on February 9, 2014
Well, as you may know, this is a cheap macro extension, but that doesn't make it bad!! When I bought it, I was not so sure about the shopping. The reviews were kind of bad, and in a moment, I was having second thoughts.

When the tube arrived, the packing was cheap too, inside this little box, was the extension tube in a plastic bag, with only a little instruction manual. I was afraid because I read a few reviews that the mount wasn't safe for your lens, FALSE. When I mounted the lens with the extension tube on my camera, I didn't have any problems at all! Neither to take it off. Just need to be carefull, to pull the safe button next to your lens, and you will no have problems (It's just like mount your lens to your camera, you even hear the click when it's mounted).

I was making some test shoots with my nikkor 50mm 1.8, and it works GREAT. Yes, sure, you have to focus manually because there is no connection between the lens and the camera, but for U$10? Come on. I think it's a great macro extension, to begin. Not proffesional, but it makes the job. You can make awesome shots with this tube. You only have to adjust everything (Use manual mode), and also use manual focus. If you have a DSLR and you don't know how to use the manual mode, you probably need to learn that before buying this accessory.

And if you don't like it, it's not like you spend U$100 in a extension tube.
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