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Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power 58499th Edition

4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars 54 ratings

Kinky boots, corsets, underwear as outerwear, second-skin garments of rubber and leather, uniforms, body piercing.... Today everything from a fetishist's dream appears on the fashion runways. Although some people regard fetish fashion as exploitative and misogynistic, others interpret it as a positive Amazonian statement--couture Catwoman. But the connection between fashion and fetishism goes far beyond a few couture collections. For the past thirty years, the iconography of sexual fetishism has been increasingly assimilated into popular culture. Before Michelle Pfeiffer's Catwoman, there was Mrs. Peel, heroine of the 1960s television show "The Avengers," who wore a black leather catsuit modeled on a real fetish costume. Street styles like punk and the gay "leatherman" look also testify to the influence of fetishism.
The concept of fetishism has recently assumed a growing importance in critical thinking about the cultural construction of sexuality. Yet until now no scholar with an in-depth knowledge of fashion history has studied the actual clothing fetishes themselves. Nor has there been a serious exploration of the historical relationship between fashion and fetishism, although erotic styles have changed significantly and "sexual chic" has become increasingly conspicuous.
Cultural historian Valerie Steele has devoted much of her career to the study of the relationship between clothing and sexuality, and is uniquely qualified to write this book. Marshalling a dazzling array of evidence from pornography, psychology, and history, as well as interviews with individuals involved in sexual fetishism, sadomasochism, and cross-dressing, Steele illuminates the complex relationship between appearance and identity. Based on years of research, her book
Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power explains how a paradigm shift in attitudes toward sex and gender has given rise to the phenomenon of fetish fashion.
"Steele is to fetish dressing what Anne Rice is to vampires," writes Christa Worthington of
Elle magazine, "the intellectual interpreter of...wishes beyond our ken." According to Steele, fetishism shows how human sexuality is never just a matter of doing what comes naturally; fantasy always plays an important role. Steele provides provocative answers to such questions as: Why is black regarded as the sexiest color? Is fetishizing the norm for males? Does fetish fashion reflect a fear of AIDS? And why do so many people love shoes?
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Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

Because this is Valerie Steele's second book on the topic of fetishistic clothing, her opening statements that she is an outsider to the paraphilias and perversions that she discusses seems a bit hollow. When she says that she is only "a cultural historian specializing in fashion" there's no need to fear: while the book is rigorously researched and loaded with valuable bibliographic references to previous researchers in the area, it's apparent that underneath her cool prose Steele really gets a kick out of her subject, if only on an intellectual level. Dividing her book into sections based on the various fetishes (corsets, shoes, second-skin fabrics, underwear), Steele shows a remarkable facility with the history and trivia of each item of clothing. This produces some amusing juxtapositions, such as when she reveals little-known information about the Chinese practice of footbinding, and a page later presents a Tom of Finland picture of a nude man surrounded by motorcycle-booted feet. There are plenty of drawings and photographs here, ostensibly to supplement the reading. Photos range from 19th-century Viennese ultra-high-heeled shoes to contemporary neo- gothic hipster chicks in corsets and leather. This is obviously not a book for children, but it's also far more than a collection of erotica in that it presents an informative and well-researched history of fetishism and the theories that have been put forward to explain it.

Review


"Steele has, once again, written a--no pun intended--masterful study."--Richard Martin, Curator, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art




"Steele has, once again, written a--no pun intended--masterful study."--Richard Martin, Curator, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art



"Steele has, once again, written a--no pun intended--masterful study."--Richard Martin, Curator, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Product details

  • ASIN ‏ : ‎ 0195115791
  • Publisher ‏ : ‎ Oxford University Press; 58499th edition (July 31, 1997)
  • Language ‏ : ‎ English
  • Paperback ‏ : ‎ 280 pages
  • ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 9780195115796
  • ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0195115796
  • Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 1.4 pounds
  • Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 10.09 x 7.01 x 0.59 inches
  • Customer Reviews:
    4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars 54 ratings

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4.4 out of 5 stars
54 global ratings

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  • BernieM
    5.0 out of 5 stars The under-belly of Miss Sally Bowles...
    Reviewed in the United Kingdom on October 25, 2018
    A good reference for anyone whose work involves writing about the inter-war years in Berlin or has an interest in the realities underlying the world of Sally Bowles - or, indeed, of her creator Christopher Isherwood. The cross-dressing, the sexual ambiguity, the sado-masochism both implied and enacted. A serious book for the serious reader/researcher. Condition good. Price realistic. Well packed and reasonably punctually delivered.
  • Eva Hompoth
    5.0 out of 5 stars Five Stars
    Reviewed in Canada on February 28, 2017
    I love the perspective she is writing from. I wanted to know the psychology behind the fetish dressing.
  • Arrakis
    3.0 out of 5 stars Pas assez fouillé.
    Reviewed in France on July 27, 2016
    Le livre se lit assez bien et présente un panorama assez large du fétichisme et de sa réappropriation ludique et esthétique par la mode. Mais l'auteur ne fait qu'effleurer son sujet. Valerie Steele ne nous donne ni une véritable histoire sociale du fétichisme, en en reconstruisant minutieusement toutes les causes et les aléas, ni une étude psycho-sociale approfondie. Tout reste un peu superficiel. Cela demeure une intéressante introduction. Mais pas plus.
  • lali
    3.0 out of 5 stars Bel riassunto, ma poche foto in b/n per giunta sfuocate
    Reviewed in Italy on February 17, 2015
    Questo libro è un discorso generico sullo stile fetish nella moda, ci sono esempi risalenti alla fine dell'800 e inizi '900, specialmente per quanto riguarda i corsetti, ma anche esempi da Thierry Mugler, quindi da sfilate di alta moda. Purtroppo non è molto dettagliato, a volte i discorsi sono generici e a volte invece va troppo nel dettaglio senza mostrare fotogradie che provino l'esempio. Ecco, le fotografie... Sono tutte in bianco e nero e sono sfuocate, non si capisce bene cosa mostrano a volte. Per un libro con questo prezzo mi aspettavo molto altro e ne sono delusa. Secondo me poi sono affrontati pochi indumenti, che sono i classici conosciuto da tutti superficialmente come cose fetish: corsetti, lingerie, scarpe. Tutto qua. Poi si parla sia di pelle sia di latex. Ma lì finisce. Forse come lavoro è un po' datato e l'autrice dovrebbe rivederlo, aggiornarlo, ampliarlo e farne un'edizione magari più costosa ma con foto decenti stavolta.
    Ho dato 3 stelle perché comunque è un lavoro interessante, ma poteva fare molto meglio.
  • Jinnie Roche
    1.0 out of 5 stars mauvais état
    Reviewed in France on November 9, 2020
    Livre arrivé avec la couverture toute pliée..Decevant