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| Wireless Type | Bluetooth |
|---|---|
| Number of USB 2.0 Ports | 2 |
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Product Description
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Keep pi cool when running |
With enough room to power cord |
Easy to remove SD card |
Videos
Page 1 of 1Start OverPage 1 of 1
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Geekworm Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Case P252 Installation Guide
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Miuzei Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Case installing video
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Check out NES Raspberry Pi Case W/ Heat Sink + Cooling Fan
Engineerable + SOUL BUILT
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GeeekPi Acrylic Case for Raspberry Pi 4 Model B with fan and heatsinks
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Having bought the case for the Pi 3 B, I thought I'd try out the B+ case as well (besides, I needed another 2.5 amp plug and cable, and it's hard to beat the price on what's in this package). I'll add some side-by-side images to compare the Pi 3 B and the Pi 3 B+ cases.As you can see from the images, there are differences, specifically in the 4th layer. This is called out in the included manual (again, I have to point out that I've purchased $30 cases for the Pi that don't include color step-by-step instructions with warnings!) that it comes as two pieces instead in the other version's single piece. Looking at the side-by-side, the board changes necessitated making this two pieces, and I can't see how they could have done it any other way. After assembly, I can see why someone else pointed out the possibility of compression or damage if pressed exactly wrong. However, once the case is assembled, this would only happen if the top and bottom layers were compressed enough directly over that spot to not let the 4th layer slide over those components, while a blow was positioned directly between and below where the audio jack and HDMI cables were plugged in. I suppose it COULD happen, but my first question would be what the !@#$ are you doing with your case that's designed to sit on a desk?!?As to another comment about the GPIO ribbon cable not being able to be used with the included fan:A) I like the option to either use the fan or the GPIO pins... many of my uses of the Pi dictate using one or the other, not both.B) If it's that important to use both, there's ribbon cables designed to let you still have access to the power pins.Lest everyone think that I don't have suggestions for improvement, I can think of a couple:1) The clear film that was protecting the top and bottom layer of the acrylic was so clear that I didn't realize it was on there at first. Either marking the film or noting it in the instructions would help people who are not aware.2) Given what I've seen of the Pi PoE HAT, I think the complaints about layer 4 would be moot, but I look forward to trying out that case once you make it.As always, I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has.
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Having bought the case for the Pi 3 B, I thought I'd try out the B+ case as well (besides, I needed another 2.5 amp plug and cable, and it's hard to beat the price on what's in this package). I'll add some side-by-side images to compare the Pi 3 B and the Pi 3 B+ cases.
As you can see from the images, there are differences, specifically in the 4th layer. This is called out in the included manual (again, I have to point out that I've purchased $30 cases for the Pi that don't include color step-by-step instructions with warnings!) that it comes as two pieces instead in the other version's single piece. Looking at the side-by-side, the board changes necessitated making this two pieces, and I can't see how they could have done it any other way. After assembly, I can see why someone else pointed out the possibility of compression or damage if pressed exactly wrong. However, once the case is assembled, this would only happen if the top and bottom layers were compressed enough directly over that spot to not let the 4th layer slide over those components, while a blow was positioned directly between and below where the audio jack and HDMI cables were plugged in. I suppose it COULD happen, but my first question would be what the !@#$ are you doing with your case that's designed to sit on a desk?!?
As to another comment about the GPIO ribbon cable not being able to be used with the included fan:
A) I like the option to either use the fan or the GPIO pins... many of my uses of the Pi dictate using one or the other, not both.
B) If it's that important to use both, there's ribbon cables designed to let you still have access to the power pins.
Lest everyone think that I don't have suggestions for improvement, I can think of a couple:
1) The clear film that was protecting the top and bottom layer of the acrylic was so clear that I didn't realize it was on there at first. Either marking the film or noting it in the instructions would help people who are not aware.
2) Given what I've seen of the Pi PoE HAT, I think the complaints about layer 4 would be moot, but I look forward to trying out that case once you make it.
As always, I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has.
As you can see from the images, there are differences, specifically in the 4th layer. This is called out in the included manual (again, I have to point out that I've purchased $30 cases for the Pi that don't include color step-by-step instructions with warnings!) that it comes as two pieces instead in the other version's single piece. Looking at the side-by-side, the board changes necessitated making this two pieces, and I can't see how they could have done it any other way. After assembly, I can see why someone else pointed out the possibility of compression or damage if pressed exactly wrong. However, once the case is assembled, this would only happen if the top and bottom layers were compressed enough directly over that spot to not let the 4th layer slide over those components, while a blow was positioned directly between and below where the audio jack and HDMI cables were plugged in. I suppose it COULD happen, but my first question would be what the !@#$ are you doing with your case that's designed to sit on a desk?!?
As to another comment about the GPIO ribbon cable not being able to be used with the included fan:
A) I like the option to either use the fan or the GPIO pins... many of my uses of the Pi dictate using one or the other, not both.
B) If it's that important to use both, there's ribbon cables designed to let you still have access to the power pins.
Lest everyone think that I don't have suggestions for improvement, I can think of a couple:
1) The clear film that was protecting the top and bottom layer of the acrylic was so clear that I didn't realize it was on there at first. Either marking the film or noting it in the instructions would help people who are not aware.
2) Given what I've seen of the Pi PoE HAT, I think the complaints about layer 4 would be moot, but I look forward to trying out that case once you make it.
As always, I'm happy to answer any questions anyone has.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on October 29, 2021
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 18, 2018
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